Report #66 Thursday, November 5, 2026---Papeete, French Polynesia---Docked Starboard Side To Pier--7:30am-Overnight--Broken Clouds--81 Degrees--78% Humidity--3.4mph-Winds-----Casual Dress

The island of Tahiti is the largest of the Windward Islands of the Society Islands.  Tahiti is considered the "beating heart" of French Polynesia with 75% of the population living in both Tahiti and her sister island, Moorea.  

 

Papeete is the capital and administrative center of French Polynesia.  Their Marche, or marketplace is a must-see full of produce, fish, flowers and a myriad of handicrafts from all of the archipelagos.  

 

Tahiti is divided into two parts, the largest is Tahiti Nui and the smaller part is Tahiti Iti.  Both parts are full of majestic valleys, lagoons, ancient sites and volcanic mountains.   Many land and nautical tours are offered here both from the ship or booked onshore.  Some of those excursions include a ride through all four corners of the island for 7 hours and $220.  A savory lunch is included.  Valley and waterfalls is a 3.5 hour tour for $130, while national treasures is 4.5 hours for $140.  A lagoon discovery from a small boat is 3 hours for $140 and the Ohana catamaran ride for 3 hours is $170.  A sunset sail with cocktails and entertainment runs 2 hours for $170.

 

Waking up early at sunrise, the temperature was already 81 degrees with 78% humidity.  There was a light wind of 3.4 mph, making it even seem more humid.  The forecast for the day was rain.  Guess what?  It never rained in town.  One of us watched the sailing into the harbor after 6:30am and docking portside by 7:30am.  The Aranui 5, the working vessel/cruise ship beat us there.  She has been in the last two ports with us.  We learned from friends that this vessel is like a freighter and a small no-nonsense cruise ship with a small number of cabins.  By 9am, the ship had been cleaned on the outside and left the harbor by 9am.    A smaller Windstar cruise ship, the Star Breeze was also in port.  We heard that this ship does 14 day runs and stays in the French Polynesia area.  Today was their turn-around day to disembark guests and take new ones onboard.  She would end up leaving by 5:30pm.  

 

There was a crew drill at 9:30am, and we left the ship by 10am.   It seemed to us that security around the terminal had been tightened up since we were here in the beginning of the year while on the Volendam's world cruise.   First of all, there was no welcoming band that we could see and no one was handing out the tiare flowers.  Usually, they are littered all over the ground outside the gangway.   There was not one bloom on the ground.  

 

It has been mandatory to climb a flight of stairs to go through the terminal building.  There is a ramp, but it is located at the far end of this terminal.   The first thing we noticed was that all of the vendors were gone in the building.  The left side of the receiving hall was closed off.

 

On the right, there were rows of seating for the incoming Star Breeze folks.   Buses and taxis were coming up the ramp on the street side of the terminal.  We had to walk down a ramp to reach the street.   We repeated the process on the way back, adding more time walking in the heat of the day. 

 

Taking our usual hike, we went down the street where all of the fabric stores are located.   Looking through their bolts, nothing struck us as something one of us must have.  One of the biggest obstacles for completing a blouse for instance, is the lack of time before we set sail again in January.   So we bought nothing. 

 

Then we entered the marketplace which was really busy for a Thursday morning.  It is a trinket and treasure heaven for most guests.   The escalator was broken to go on the second level, and we did not bother with the elevator.  All of the photos we wanted were all on the main level.  And that was not easy due to the crowd in there today.  We would come back here to buy flowers after our first walk.  

 

Our path took us to one of the main streets to Notre Dame Cathedral, which has been locked up tight for a few years now.   We have a feeling there was a problem with homeless people camping in there.  One shop always has nice Hinano t-shirts, so we bought a new one.   We were able to walk the Queen's Garden at the government building.   It is a nice respite in a bustling city.  And there are many signs explaining the history here.  However, they are all printed in French, which one of us can understand a little bit.  

 

One of the busiest places for fast food is located here and that is McDonald's.  We could see dozens of cruise guests using their free wifi, while locals were lined up buying lunch.  Across the street is the back entrance to Bougainville Park with the creek running through it and the old canons pointing to the bay.   It was a blistering hot and humid morning, so we decided to head back to the market and buy some flowers.  At least these tropical flowers will last until we go back home.    With all of the warnings about bringing food, drink, or flowers off of the ship, there is no problem bringing them onboard.    It is always best to check out the blossoms for ants before buying them.   These days, we think the vendors spray them before selling them.  We got back to the ship by 1pm after walking the long way around to go through the terminal. 

 

Putting the bouquets in water, we headed out again to go to lunch.   On past cruises, we have always been able to turn left from the gate, and head through the Viete Square to access the main street.  Well, today, only the guests boarding the Windstar ship were allowed access to the ship.  This entire area has been fenced off from town now.  So we had to go up the ramp and through the terminal to get out to the street.  

 

It seems like the hike to LaPizzeria gets longer every time we go.   We arrived to a mostly full restaurant by 1:30pm, lucky to get a table for two under a broken fan.  We ordered Hinano beers, which took forever to arrive.  Then we asked for a Hawaiian pizza which came soon enough.   It was still nice sitting for an hour enjoying probably the last of the pizzas we will get on this trip.  The majority of the diners were locals, not cruise ship folks like us.  They know where the good Italian food is served.

 

We crossed the street and walked the Paofai Park back, passing the Paofai Protestant Church along the way.    There is always a breeze along the water and more places to dine if we were here for another day.   The marina has a number of manmade coral gardens attracting many tropical fish.    We were back to the convoluted terminal by 3pm.  Walking up and down those stairs is a killer with those folks with knee and back problems.   

 

It was nice to spend the rest of the afternoon cooling off in our room and working online.  By the late afternoon, the Star Breeze left the pier, as well as ferries coming and going.  We had the best view of the harbor today. Then around 7:30pm, we had a knock on our door from the florist onboard with a new bouquet of tropical flowers.  We did not find a card with it, but we suspected that Margaret had something to do with the new bouquet.   She really is a sweetheart.

 

Before we knew it, the sun was going down blocked by many clouds.   Time for dinner, we headed for the Pinnacle Grill for a repeat of what we like there.  Wedge salads with 2  slices of candied bacon, lamb chops and a small filet.  We shared a baked potato with toppings but only had room for one pink macaroon for dessert.  I did not share it. 

 

The special performance from The Spirit of Tahiti, a local group, wowed the audience.  We could hear the drums on both decks four and five.  On previous trips here, we have seen the show and found it riveting and loud.   

 

Another port tomorrow will be Moorea, the quieter island.  And the last one in the Society Islands.  

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

350 Pictures

Report #65--Wednesday, November 4, 2026-- Vaitape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia--8am-5:30pm--Anchored Using Ships Tenders---Overcast--77 Degrees--80% Humidity--21.7mph--Winds---Casual Dress

One of the Leeward Islands of the Society Islands is Bora Bora.  It has the honor of having the most gorgeous lagoons in the world with sapphire blue and turquoise waters.  This lush and green island has two majestic peaks, Otemanu and Pahia.  The surrounding string of motus or coral atoll is full of extravagant resorts, most of which have over-the-water bungalows.   Think of "cha-ching" with $$$$$ to spend a vacation here.   

 

The island is only 5.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide and is estimated to be 7 million years old.  That makes it the oldest of the Society Islands.   When we arrived, the temperature was 77 degrees with 80% humidity.  The winds were 21.7 mph, and it was raining with very overcast and cloudy skies.   Certainly not the type of weather that we had hoped for, but this is the beginning of the rainy season.  The ship sailed through the Teavanui Pass and into the bay across from Vaitape.  It would have been nice if the sun was out, but it was not.  It reminded us of the many times we have visited Bora Bora in the past and found a near-perfect paradise.   

 

The morning began onboard with the dreaded event of the toilets not working in our quadrant.   In fact, it may have been more extensive because everyone we know at breakfast had the same problem.  Lucky for us, ours started operating right before breakfast.  Others were not so lucky.  These things happen on every ship, even the newer ones.  But they seem to occur more often on an older vessel such as the Zaandam and Volendam.  They are both showing their age.   

 

We stayed on the ship until most of the tour groups went off.   The island discovery in Le Truck is one we have done more than once for 2.5 hours and $70.  An easy one is the glass bottom boat for 1.5 hours and $100.   A deluxe lagoon cruise was 2 hours for $160, while for the same price, there was a shark & ray snorkel for 3 hours.    A longer tour for 5 hours was a catamaran cruise with sharks and rays and a BBQ picnic.  A more expensive option was a jetski ride for 2.5 hours and $560. 

 

We left the ship after 10pm when the open tenders were announced.  It was a 10-minute easy ride to the pier.   Going around to the parking lot, we searched for le trucks that are always here to transport guests to Matira Point and Beach, about a 5-mile ride south of Vaitape.  There were none to be seen, not even taxis.  Other folks were also looking for the $ 5 shuttle ride so we waited.  Within 10 minutes, vans and shuttles began arriving.  We took a van with six other crew members from the ship.  It is always a scenic ride, but there sure seemed to be a lot of traffic for a Wednesday morning.   We tend to forget that over 10,000 people live and work here. 

 

The shuttle passed by the new Bloody Mary's Resort which has been being built for the last couple of years.  The old restaurant is still intact but is being re-modeled.    Friends we know went there for lunch today, dining on the inside of their new hotel.  They reported it was wonderful especially sitting in a room over the water.  The restaurant across the street where the old one was located will be finished before the end of this year.   Or so they say.

 

We got out of the van at Matira Beach and strolled in the surf to the park area of Matira Beach, where we watched a local family waist-high in the water with a sting ray headed their way.  The mom got good pictures of it as it swam towards the shoreline.  A small dive boat pulled up near them and stopped.  We are  not sure if they were letting the snorkelers off here.   Then we wandered off to the  Intercontinental Resort.   For the first time ever, we saw a sign posted at the entrance to the lobby saying for guests only.    That was not our destination anyway.  It was another ½ mile up the road to the Maitai Resort where we were the first to enter their open-air dining venue.  Of course, we ordered two Hinano draft beers with a chorizo pizza to share.  It was great sitting there enjoying the scenery, but the best part of lunch was the dessert of profiteroles once again.   Hotel guests were beginning  to come from their over-the-water bungalows for lunch.   One big dog who has been here for years, laid almost motionless in the sand or under the tables.   Waiting for handouts we assume.  

 

Time to move on, we went back to Matira and hopped on the waiting Le Truck for a ride back to the pier.     We were back onboard after a quick tender ride by 2:30pm.  However, one of us found a nice, seeded necklace in the hut before boarding the tender boat.   

 

It was a perfect time to work online and try to stay ahead of the pictures and reports.  Captain Thomas came on with his updates by 4:30pm saying we had 150 nautical miles to go to reach Papeete, Tahiti tomorrow.   He expected the weather to be much the same and 8-foot swells.  Tomorrow we might get some rain.   The Zaandam left the lagoon by 6pm with not much in the way of a sunset.  Just some color in the clouds.

 

Dinner time was good with different types of salads and mains of lamb chops.  The theme was Casino Royale with activities in the Mix Bar at 8:30pm.  They advertised table games and a chance to win great prizes.    The songstress Anita Newby was in the World Stage this evening.  Her tunes included ones from the movies.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

PS   We are backed up a few days but are trying to catch up.  Stay tuned.....

 

321 Pictures

Report #64--Tuesday, November 3, 2026--Uturoa, Raiatea, French Polynesia--Docked Port Side To Pier--8am-4:30pm---Rain--77 Degrees--84% Humidity--19.6mph-Winds----Casual Dress

Well, here we are on our way to Raiatea, one of the Leeward Islands of The Society Islands.    Specifically, we will be docking portside around 7am in the town of Uturoa, the administrative center of the Leeward Islands.   There is a total of 12,250 inhabitants that speak French, and some English.   The highest point on the island is Mt. Tefatoaiti at 3,336 feet in elevation.   This island has it all such as mountains, a lagoon, maraes, and a unique navigable river.  It is also the base for yachties and boaters as it shares a mighty pretty lagoon with its sister island, Taha'a. 

 

Raiatea is the first island to be settled by Polynesians over 1000 years ago.   There is a history of war between the chiefs of Bora Bora and other nearby islands.   Long story short, the French arrived and won over all of the islands.   

 

Not to be missed are sailing in the shared lagoon with neighboring Taha'a snorkeling, scuba diving, and a visit to their botanical gardens.  The nearby two-story marketplace with fresh produce and flowers with handicrafts, jewelry, and island clothing on the second level is well worth a visit.  The largest marae or sacred rock platform called Taputapuatea is located here and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017.  And the famous Hawaiki Nui Va'a International Outrigger Canoe Race was held here at the end of October.  We just missed it. 

 

There were some excursions here such as a drive in Le Truck for 3.5 hours and $90.  A boat ride up the Faaroa River with a beach break and picnic was 3.5 hours for $170.  A land and sea 4x4 drive in Taha'a was $150 for 3.5 hours, while a visit to the Anapa Pearl Farm with a snorkel break was $160 for 3.5 hours.  Drift snorkel at Taha'a was 3.5 hours for $180 and the highlights tour was $130 for 3.5 hours.   

 

The Zaandam arrived to temperatures of 77 degrees with 84% humidity.   The winds were 19.6 mph and the ship's speed getting here was 7.5 knots.  We arrived at the opening in the reef near Taha'a around 6:30am, or so I was told.   And it was raining.  No sense for both of us to get up so early.  The one that wanted to stay warm in bed was able to watch our sail-in on the TV's bow channel.  

 

Every morning at breakfast, we have been sharing port news with our President's Club buddies about what we did and saw in the previous port.  All of us have different experiences.  Good info is always appreciated .  

 

One of the first things we noticed upon docking was that the pier area was cordoned off with two exits only.  And more important, the group of huts that have been deteriorating over the years were also fenced off and work was in progress with re-building.   These souvenir tents have needed major repairs for several years now and it is nice to see it happening.   We think a major storm recently blew through here and completed the destruction.   

We left the ship after doing some computer work by 10:30am.  We figured the rain had let up or gone away by then.  No such luck, as shortly after we began our walk, the rain returned.  It was still fairly light, and we did remember to bring umbrellas.  Along the small boat harbor closest to the ship, we found that work was being done on the wooden boardwalk.  This also has been a long time coming. We went as far as the marina and beyond to where the canoe race was held a week ago.  There are huge tents there and kayaks and canoes stored nearby.  There is also what the locals call a swimming pool, which really is a concrete wall with steps and a ladder down into the water.  Restrooms are nearby  as well as some picnic tables and benches.   

 

We had made our way to one of those benches when the rain began blowing sideways and heavier.   The umbrellas did not help a lot, so we decided to start walking back.   About the same time that we arrived,  a whole congregation of school kids from 1^st grade to maybe 8^th grade was led from across the road to here.   The younger kids went under a tented area, but the older kids went for a swim or played soccer at the far end.  The rain did not slow them down one bit.   It was still warm and very humid outside.

 

We went under one of the metal-roofed areas near the kids and watched as tubs of food were driven to them, obviously a lunch break.  But before their picnic, they had brought music and an exercise class began.   It was fun to watch them having fun, especially on a dreary school day.   Eventually  the rain eased up, and we continued our walk back.  

 

We made it to Saint Andre' Church in town and took refuge inside until the rain stopped.   We were not the only ones doing this.   We made a sweep through the handicraft table outside the marketplace checking out the seashell creations.   I think it best to hold out for Moorea and Fakarava where the same items are a fraction of the cost.   

 

We had intended to have a beer and lunch at La Raie Gate cafe across from the ship, but it was full of customers.  The few empty tables were not cleaned, and there did not see to be a waitress.  Looking for a menu, we happened to spot a counter where they sell mini pizzas for $3.   These were not covered and were exposed to flies.   Seeing this, we changed our minds about eating here and went right back onboard.  It was already 2pm, and we knew a room service lunch of salad, soup, and a shared sandwich was in order.   

 

Captain Thomas came on with his talk around 4:30pm, which was all aboard time.  He said that the winds were a factor today, and we would have to gain speed to get away from the dock.  We would then take the lagoon to the opening where we came in this morning.   Good thing, one of us was up this morning, because the island of Taha'a was on the starboard side all the way out.   All we had was a view of the reef and open ocean from our veranda.   Then the Captain added that we will be doing a speed of 7.5 knots since we are so close to Bora Bora.  The ride will take 130 nautical miles even though, the distance is far less.     In addition, he will be able to use the stabilizers to keep us all comfortable.   He anticipated a 6:30am sailing into the reef of Bora Bora around 7am, and drop anchor at 8am.   It continued to rain off and on as we finally left the lagoon surrounding Taha'a.   

 

Dinner had a few choices such as salads and a chicken tikka starter.  Mains were chicken and one veggie quesadilla.   We did save a bit of room for the boshe bal, a Dutch dessert we have grown to like.   This is the first time it appeared on the menu since September 2nd.  

 

Showtime was the comedy of Jeff Burghart who also did impressions.   Wish we could stay up that late, but it is getting harder to burn the candle at both ends.

 

Tomorrow's port will be Bora Bora, a very special one.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

365 Pictures

Report #63--Monday, November 2, 2026--Huahine, French Polynesia--11am-5pm---Anchored Using Ships Tenders---Broken Clouds--79 Degrees--81% Humidity--9.3mph-Winds-----Casual Dress

Today our port of all is Huahine, part of the Leeward Islands of the Society Islands.  Nicknamed the Garden of Eden, the island of Huahine is known for their excellent fields for cultivating watermelons, cantaloupe, cucumbers,  and every tropical fruit such as pineapples, mangoes, bananas, vanilla and the ever-present coconuts.   

 

The main town of Fare has a 1950's feel about it where time has stopped and everyone knows each other.   Basic stores and markets are there as well as cafes, bars, and banks. The main restaurant is the Huahine Yacht Club, not your usual type of yacht club at all.

 

Outside of town, there is a pearl farm, mountains with hidden sacred maraes, lagoons and beaches.  There are sacred blue-eyed eels in the river at Faie and endless scuba and snorkel dives .  

 

There were some tours offered through the shore excursions.  One of them was a lagoon cruise for 2 hours and $110, and a trip to the Pearl Farm, marae and a vanilla plantation for 3.5 hours for $120.   A 4x4 drive with a snorkel stop was 3.5 hours for $130.  Then there was a lagoon cruise and picnic lunch for 3.5 hours and $170.  A round-trip shuttle ride to Fare was $20 per person.  It used to be free, but not anymore. 

 

There is no cruise ship dock here, so we entered Maroe Bay and dropped anchor.   There were some choices to make.  You could book a tour, or take a tender ride to the shuttle drop off and go off on your own.  Or secure a tender boat ride followed by the paid shuttle to town.   Which is what we decided to do.  The only other option was to stay onboard and not go anywhere, as what was hinted at by Dario, the cruise director, yesterday.    That comment did not go unnoticed by a lot of people we know.  And later in the morning, he more or less retracted what he had said.   By all means, please go out but be aware of the heat factor and bring water, which is the only drink allowed off of the ship. 

 

Although the forecast said blue skies, it was mostly cloudy all day.  The temperature was 79 degrees and 81% humidity.  The breeze was 9.3mph and the ship's speed was 15 knots.  Late last night, a note had been slipped under our door regarding the transfer today.   Since we do not have a cell phone, and tour tickets are no longer given, Margaret sent the note with our meeting time in the World Stage at 11:45am  for the tender ride to shore.  We were group number 29, and that would be our shuttle number.     That process took almost an hour.  We came to the conclusion that this was the only way to control the crowd, who historically want to be first off and first to the village.   Our return time was between 2 and 2:30pm, although we think they would have taken anyone back with the shuttles about empty.    By the way, these transfers were in the old wooden school buses like always.  And made for little kids, not adults like most of us.  It was rather amusing watching the folks bent in half as they made their way down to their wooden seats.  

 

The ride was scenic taking us over a bridge and passing by steep hillsides and plantations in the valleys.  It took all of 20 minutes to arrive to the quaint village of Fare, where life has stopped for 50 years or so.  We walked from one end of town to the other and back within 15 minutes. The only birds we saw were a few brown noddies and some pretty little white terns.   Dogs roamed the streets again, especially where people were eating food.  Looking into the waters by a boat ramp, we saw a few large sting rays on the bottom.   The water was crystal clear.   If it wasn't so cloudy, the colors would have been striking.  

 

 We had not intended to go to lunch today, but when we saw that the "Yacht Club" had some tables available, we went inside and got a table near the door.  We ordered two cheeseburgers with fries and two Hinano draft beers - the large ones.  The burgers were excellent....who knew?    Cruise friends Rosie, Randy, Susie and Eddie have always said the food was good there.  On a side note, the restaurant did not accept Am Ex, but they did take Visa.   Another fellow passenger tried using a Visa debit card, and they would not take it at a local store.  He had to go to a bank and exchange US dollars for the francs.  

 

We headed back by 2:30pm, connecting with a tenderboat after the 20-minute ride.  The good news was it never rained.   That's because one of us brought the umbrellas.   We were back in our room by 4pm.    Captain Thomas did come on with his updates by 5pm, and said we had 96 nautical miles to each Raiatea tomorrow morning.  The average speed will be 7.5 knots.  He added that tomorrow's sailing will be mixed with higher winds and perhaps some rain.   That might determine how he will approach the island to dock.   The anchor was pulled and we were out of the bay shortly after 5:30pm or so.  

 

Dinner time found us back in the dining room with some different items to try.  All of the waiters were wearing island shirts including the assistant maitre'd's and Dwi, the head honcho.  It was nice for a change, and we are sure the crew liked it as well.  Starters for us were salads, and a bowl of tomato soup - smoked.  Good.  Another starter was a shredded beef serving that resembled Fancy Feast.  Mains were one tasty tenderloin strips and one salmon dinner.  Desserts were a slice of cheesecake and one scoop of coffee ice cream.  Filled again.

 

The entertainers of the night were the couple with the music and artistry of magic.  Our meals run late, so we seem to miss most of the shows.  

 

Tomorrow's port will be Raiatea, one we have visited numerous times.   

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

 

366 Pictures

Report #62--Sunday, November 1, 2026---Avatoru, Rangiroa, French Polynesia---8am-5:30pm--Anchored Using Ships Tenders---Cloudy, Rain And Sun--81 Degrees--81% Humidity--15.1mph-Winds---Casual Dress

Today's port of call is Rangiroa, the capital of the Tuamotus as well as the largest atoll in French  Polynesia.  It may be among the largest atolls in the world.  The two main villages are Avatoru and Tiputa where the ships enter into the inner lagoon.  There are 2710 residents with a lagoon surface of 1640 square kilometers.  It is so large, you cannot see the entire ring as it disappears on the horizon.   They have an airport, a couple of hotels, and pensions. Rangiroa is famous for their amazing dives where you can see hammerhead and grey sharks, manta rays, turtles and if you are lucky....dolphins jumping in the Tiputa Pass as the ship enters the lagoon.   

 

Maybe because it was Sunday, the local officials were one hour late in clearing the ship.  We had some heavy rain early in the morning, as we waited to view the entrance of the ship into the lagoon.  One of us stayed behind, while the other went to deck six forward.   Being able to see both sides of the ship as it entered through the rapids, dolphins were spotted briefly in the front of the bow. 

 

Once the rain stopped, it appeared that it was going to be a very warm day with temperatures in the low 80's and humidity of 81%.  The only thing that saved the day was the winds of 15.1 mph.  Despite the early morning showers and overcast, the skies cleared up and the rain never came back.

 

After breakfast, we decided to hang around until many of the guests had gone off.  But by 10am, we thought it wise to go over to the atoll earlier since we knew we had a long walk ahead of us.  We met with Margaret in the Wajang Theater where priority tender tickets were being handed out.  We did not need them, so she had us wait by the Pinnacle Grill until she radioed the "stair guard" on deck one that we were on the way.  The tour groups appeared to be using another platform, so the tendering went smoother. 

 

Speaking of tours, there were three of them offered today.  There was a ride to a pearl farm for 1.5 hours for $30.  A glass bottom boat ride for one hour was $90,while a snorkel adventure was also one hour for $120.   Each shore excursion had four starting times, and were fully booked we heard. 

 

The tender ride took about 15 minutes, taking us to the same new pier we used last year.  Located close to the Kia Ora Resort, there was a tented seating area to keep the folks in the shade, and also a mini handicraft market with over-priced island clothing and jewelry.  There is a small public beach right here as well as restrooms for the guests.  Lots of passengers went right here for the day with their swimsuits on and packing their striped beach towels.   

 

We were surprised at the lack of birds we spotted which were mostly red-footed boobies as we were sailing into the pass.  Then on the road walk, we saw several pretty white terns landing in a casuarina tree where they had some chicks.   Other than a few stray chickens, we saw nothing more.

 

We began our slow walk on the road heading past homes and the airport all the way to the Maitai Hotel, about a 2.5 mile hike.  It is a very scenic walk with little shade, so it ended up taking us up to 2 hours to get to our lunch destination.  We stopped in every little bit of shade along the road, thankful for the breeze at our backs.  We had expected some passing showers and were prepared with umbrellas.  It never happened. We almost wished it would.....

 

While we were walking the road, the Paul Gauguin cruise ship entered the lagoon and dropped anchor closer to the pass.  We assume they were using the older pier.  We also heard that several beachgoers had some cuts due to the broke coral-laden beach and surf near the tender pier.    Along our hike, we ran into several couples that were walking like us.  They were searching for sandy beaches, restaurants, hotels, shops and stores, but there are none up this way.  Private homes line the road, and everything is fenced and gated.  The most visible form of civilization here was the airport with some picnic tables and benches across the road.   Most of the hikers made it this far, then turned around due to the excessive heat.

 

About a half mile further up the road, we spotted the Maitai Resort sign and prayed they were opened, just like we did last year.    Almost reluctantly, the waitress was about to say no, when she invited us in to sit at a window table.  Thank goodness.   We instantly ordered two Hinano draft beers - the big ones of course.  They never tasted so good and refreshing.  Placing our order of a jambon and cheese panini to share (they are large), we asked if there were fries with it.  Yes, there were, but we asked if she could double them.  She must have heard us wrong, and thought we ordered rice, or "riz" which sounded like fries.  So we had a bowl of rice arrive with our sandwich.  One of us loves rice, so it worked.  We finished our meal with one serving of profiteroles, plenty to share and so good.  One thing about dining in French Polynesia, you are never rushed.  We had relaxed there for at least an hour while watching some of the guests enjoying the pool and spectacular views of the lagoon.  

 

Knowing that one of us would prefer a ride back to the pier, we asked the concierge if there was a van available to get us back.  Yes, there was a van that was transferring guests to the nearby airport, and they gladly let us hitch the ½ mile ride.    Once they were off-loaded, we climbed back in for the 2-mile drive back to the tender pier.   We thanked the driver and tipped him as well.

 

 

Cooling off in our room and working online, we waited for the Captain's talk at 4:30pm.  He said it was anchors aweigh after 5pm where he would turn around and gain speed to run the rapids on the way out of the lagoon.   One of us did see four dolphins jumping alongside the bow for a split second before they dove and disappeared.  Never would have had a chance to get a photo they were so quick.  We have 227 nautical miles to reach Huahine tomorrow morning around 10am.  The Captain warned people to be aware of a high solar index and the rising temperatures that easily cause heat stroke.  Dario followed with his evening activities, but then also added that some guests may be more comfortable staying onboard tomorrow in Huahine.    What?   That was a first to suggest not going ashore.  Fast forward to tomorrow, he had to walk back that statement.

 

Dinner for us was in the Tamarind pop-up in the Pinnacle Grill.  On the world cruise this year, we strongly suggested that the Tamarind venue should be one of the  complimentary meals we get for a perk.  If the ship we happened to be sailing had a Tamarind restaurant, it was included.   Long story short, our request was granted for the Volendam and Zaandam and now we can go to the pop-up using one our ten complimentary dinners.    Our meal was excellent with  starters of an egg roll, Thai beef salad, a wonton soup, and tempura shrimp.  We both ordered the wasabi tenderloin which came with tempura onions.  We added a small bowl of egg rice and assorted mushrooms. There was no room for dessert at all. 

 

The entertainment was a final performance by Elliot Finkel, the piano man, with Out of the Box program.  We missed it sine our meal ran well past showtime.

 

Tomorrow....Huahine.

 

Bill & Mary Ann    

 

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Report #61--Saturday, October 31, 2026--Happy Halloween--Sea Day #6 Of 6---Enroute To Avatoru, Rangiroa, French Polynesia---Broken Clouds--82 Degrees--75% Humidity--21.2mph--Winds---Ships Speed--12 Knots----Casual Dress

Happy Halloween to everyone!

 

Well here we are on day number six at sea, and celebrating the occasion of Halloween.  It is guaranteed to bring memories of everyone's childhood back to life....hopefully they are good memories. 

 

On our way to breakfast, we spied the first stairwell ghost hanging around.  Created by our room attendants, this ghoul was hiding in their linen closet.  There were more ghosts around the front desk, one of which was laying on the floor under the counter.  We all laughed and commented that he was waiting far too long in line and just died there.   We would find there were more decorations all over the ship later. 

 

While we were finishing our breakfast, Margaret, our excellent Mariner rep, stopped by for a chat.  Perfect timing,  we needed to ask her some questions regarding the stop in Huahine.  There has always been a free shuttle to the village of Fare, but now we have to book a time slot and pay $20 per person for the round-trip transfer.   We are not talking about tour buses here; we are talking wooden, open-air school buses made for small kids.   Actually, half of the fun of being in Huahine is the bus ride to town.   We have always associated the ride with "over the river and through the woods to grandmother's house we go".   Anyway, Margaret said we needed to go to the shore excursion page on TV and book the transfer and the time slot.  Once that was done, she would credit back the charges after our visit, because the shuttle was free for the President's Club members.   Nice perk, thank you.

 

Captain Thomas wished everyone a most spooky Happy Halloween at the beginning of his update at noon.   He added that the ship was doing 12 knots with the 8-foot swells coming right at the bow and side of the ship.   Just a guess, we think that tends to slow us down.  We have sailed 1870 nautical miles from Kona and have an additional 262 nautical miles to reach Rangiroa.   He will pick up the pilot who will stay with us for all of the Polynesian ports.   Then they will make the run through the Tiputa Pass where the flow of water is immense into the lagoon.  It is one of the places we need to be outside for possible dolphin sightings. That will be the same upon leaving by 5pm.  He will drop anchor and the tender boats will take us to shore after 8am.   

 

By the way, the temperature this morning was 82 degrees with 75% humidity.  The winds have increased to 21.2 mph giving us higher swells and whitecaps. The Captain mentioned that the winds were a gale force of 30 knots and we have some considerable pitching and yawing.  

 

Here's some info on the Tuamotus Archipelago.   With an area of 20,000 square kilometers, the Tuamotus and Gambier atolls are often associated with each other.  There are a few "high" islands, but the majority are coral atolls - 80 in total.   The best way to describe an atoll is comparing it to a string of pearls with a lagoon in the center.   The "pearls" are the series of motus or islets creating the ring of coral land.  

 

The total population of these two archipelagos is 16,880 people that speak a dialect called Paumotu.  An interesting fact is that 98% of the luxurious black pearls are farmed here.  The other treasures found is the wealth of the underwater world of the gorgeous aqua lagoons.  The port for tomorrow will be Avatoru, Rangiroa, the largest coral atoll in French Polynesia.  More info to follow.

 

There were three tours offered in Rangiroa starting with a ride to the Pearl Farm for 1 ½  hours and $30, where they show how the pearls are farmed and turned into fine jewelry.  Of course, there is a fine shop for people that are looking for the "real" deal buying black pearls.  Prepare for sticker shock.  A glass bottom boat ride for 1 hour runs $90 and a snorkel tour is 1 hour for $120.  Last we heard, they were sold out.  

 

We took a walk around the ship, getting pictures of the Halloween decorations.  They have really gone wild with every deck this year.  More so than other Halloweens.   Every stairwell had a ghost or goblin, and the Lido pool area had a display of the pumpkin carvings done by the kitchen staff.   Each creation had a number so the guests could cast a vote for the best one.  In our humble opinion, they were all great....not one alike.  The Lido restaurant had a display of spooky cakes, all of which will be devoured by 2pm.  Our final stop was at the dining room entrance where the festive decorations greeted us.  

 

There was heavy scrubbing taking place on the bow, where the hitch-hiking birds had perched for all of these days at sea.  Oddly enough, the birds have flown the coup and were nowhere to be seen.   We suppose the high winds blew them back where they came from.  

 

Dinner had some "comfort' dishes such as crispy BBQ chicken spring rolls, Caesar salads with the dressing on the side, and bacon-wrapped meatloaf with mashed potatoes, peas and carrots.  You know what made it even more special?   The entrees were served piping hot on hot plates.  That was not the case last night with our special King's Room dinner, but that's water under the bridge now.  We are discovering that if we mention something to one staff member, the word seems to travel and more staff seems to be aware of something not quite right.   Honestly, it was not that big  of a deal or else we would have sent our entrees back for new ones.    Anyway, dessert this evening was one scoop of chocolate chip ice cream, and one Tres leches caramel flan .  

 

Since it was Halloween, many folks dressed in costumes for the special party in the Lido Poolside at 8:30pm.   They promised a spooktacular HAL-oween with prizes for the best costumes.   On past cruises, we went there, but it was always crowded beyond belief.    So we passed it up.

 

There was a show in the World Stage with the Vivace String Ensemble at the normal times.   They always deliver a wonderful performance.  

 

Will finally be on firm ground tomorrow after 6 days at sea.  Should be nice....

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

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