One of us way wide awake most of the night re-thinking everything we packed for the four night five day safari beginning today. Did we miss something or forget to bring enough or did we bring too much? One thing that helps is keeping a list and high light the last-minute stuff to pack. Although we were both allowed to bring a duffel weighing 44 pounds, we decided to keep it at one for both of us. With two hand carries, we figured it was perfect.
Around 4am, the lights of the pilot boat streamed through the cracks in the drapes and within minutes the pilot had boarded right on schedule. By the time we looked out the veranda door, we were already docked portside at the Nelson Mandela Cruise Terminal well before 7am. We saw the officials board and shortly after 7am the ship was cleared. All good news. Except it wasn't good news to the person who was being medically debarked on a stretcher and transferred into a waiting ambulance. Once again, we did not know who it was, but we wish them a speedy recovery.
Kimberly came on with a message that we were cleared, but before anyone headed off the ship, she gave a sobering warning to be most careful where we went today. If you were not on a tour or an overland excursion, she recommended that folks go off in a group, dress conservatively, and don't wearing flashy jewelry. And most of all, pack your wallet on your person and not in a handbag or even a backpack. She cautioned folks to stay away from the pier area and even the central business district as bad things have happened there in the past. There was a free shuttle to Shakaland, which was considered a safe area. We did that a year ago and it was just fine.
So we skipped breakfast and left the ship by 7:15am where our driver was scheduled to pick us up at 7:30am. No private vehicles were allowed in the terminal parking lot, so we went out the gate and waited for someone to find us. And he did. A nice young fellow came along with our names on his notepad, introducing himself as our driver to the King Shaka International Airport. Perfect. We were at the airport within an hour mostly due to the fact that today was Saturday and there was no commuter traffic. Once out of the concrete jungle of Durban, the landscape opened up with hillsides and valleys well-wooded and green planted with sugar cane.
Our flight wasn't until 10:30am to the Mpumalanga Airport in Nelspruit. So on we went to the Airlink counter to check in with our one underweight bag. We appreciated the fact that it was free and by the way, we did learn that TSA locks are not required here in South Africa. We used two of the TSA locks as well as two little regular locks, and it passed through with no problem. We went through the security check which was far simpler than in a US airport. Only the computer had to be outside the case. One of us set off the xray machine, but it was to be expected with the new knee. A quick pat down by the security gal, we were free to go. We did have to take our watches off, but at least our shoes and sweatshirt could stay on.
It appeared we were on the commuter flight section of the airport, so the shops and cafés were basic and few. If we had needed anything we had forgotten, now was the place to buy it. Our gate was A1 down one floor by elevator. We had about 1 ½ hours to relax before we boarded one of those easy buses to the plane on the tarmac. We would guestimate that there were no more than thirty people on this flight which should have taken a bit over an hour. On the way, we were served our complimentary choice of a beef or chicken sandwich on cranberry nut bread along with a beverage of our choice which was Coke Zero. This was a welcomed treat since we had gone without breakfast this morning. Sure beats the tiny packages of pretzels we usually get on a flight to anywhere in the states.
Once we were close to Nelspruit, the pilot announced that we would have to circle the airport because there were too many planes landing close together. That added 20 minutes to the flight where we could enjoy the scenery below us. As long as we were not in danger of running low on fuel, we were fine with it.
Mpumalanga has almost the tiniest terminal we have seen, but also the most unique. The minute we were off of the plane, there was no doubt we were in Africa (and not in Kansas anymore). And just as we expected, there were many folks waiting at the turntable for their luggage from the previous flights. Within 15 minutes, our duffel arrived and we went out right into the main entrance of the airport. The second driver of the day was waiting with our names on his ipad where we were led to his SUV in the parking lot. The drive to the camp took almost two hours. The first thing we saw leaving the terminal was a herd of grazing impala alongside the slopes of the road.
Coming out of the hills on our way to the lowveld, we passed by plantations of bananas, macadamia nuts, and orange groves….the ones that produce the sweet little Clementines. These hills are also perfect for growing a type of eucalyptus tree that have straight and narrow trunks and are suitable for lumber. Some pines were planted in the mix too.
Eventually we entered the largest settlement here called Hazyview. They had everything likes malls, theaters, fast food restaurants, and fix-it-yourself stores. One mall we passed was a carbon copy of the one we visited in Richards Bay. On the outskirts pf towm, there were produce stands where the locals were selling all types of fruit and veggies. We even saw displays of African souvenirs in the way of wood carvings. Better and bigger than those we saw in Richards Bay yesterday.
Once our driver took a left turn on a dirt road, he said be prepared for an African massage. He meant be ready for the bumpy ride we can expect in the safari vehicles. Something one never forgets. Much to or surprise, we passed by a male elephant as well as a small tribe of lions snoozing off the remainder of the afternoon under the shade of a tree. Luck was with us today since we arrived in time for lunch at 2:30pm, followed by the 4pm game drive.
Lunch was not a simple affair. The first course to arrive was a charcutier board filled with cheeses, crackers, lunchmeats, two empanadas, and chutney. Next came a platter of salad greens topped with grilled marinated chicken chunks and fried mozzarella cheese squares. In the mix were avocados, tomatoes, and cucumbers with a side of hot baked bread slices. It was an ample meal, and very much appreciated since we were hungry by the time we arrived to the camp.
We had a royal welcome from the staff members who did remember us from at least 10 years ago. One of those staff members here is Joseph, one of the best and oldest of the safari drivers and guides, a Shangaan tribe member. He welcomed us with opened arms….very touching. We had hoped to see him here and most happy he had not retired yet. Then we were led to our "home" for the stay here, and were further surprised to see they had put us up in a two bedroom suite near the camp's main complex. And even better, there was electricity now that powered two air-conditioning units, ceiling lights and fan, and many plugs to use for computers, phones, and camera equipment. In order for them to compete with the dozens of camp sites, they needed to upgrade to these simple amenities. However, there were still the oil lanterns and candles used in the main lodge as well as every cabin and the surrounding grounds.
After lunch, we barely had time to stash our things, when we were escorted to our safari vehicle to meet our driver, Ben and tracker, Joseph. How good was that to get the most experienced guides in the camp. One of us with the bad back took the shotgun seat with the driver Ben, who welcomed me to sit there. I promised not to bug him, but if questions came up, I would. He laughed, but I did intend to learn everything I could from this experience when the opportunity came up.
We saw so many animals right off the bat such as elephants…..lots of them. It was hot today, so in the afternoons, most of the smarter animals will lay low and out of the sun. Even the birds don't fly. But one sight we will never forget had to be four large dark male lions (brothers Ben said) literally alongside and on top of an elephant that had died three days ago. To say the horrible smell was over-powering is an understatement. One of the more aggressive of the lions stuck its head into the cavity of the elephant and thousands of blow flies emerged in a cloud. Truly shocking, this is natures way of cleaning itself. It's something one needs to see to appreciate the cycle of life. Why this elephant died was a mystery, because it was fairly young. Besides the lions, a flock of the large African vultures were vying for a spot at the "dinner table". They did not take a risk of the lions coming after them, which they did anyway. With nothing else to do, the starving birds fought with each other. Within minutes, two more safari vehicles arrived and we took off. To tell the truth, we think our driver was getting nauseated and had to escape the rather unpleasant aroma. Now we wonder how long this carcass will survive? The hide of the elephant was so thick and leathery, even the sharp teeth of the lions did not penetrate it. And yes, we agreed that it did take way our appetite for a bit.
Getting away from this area and upwind of it, we passed by some zebras and wildebeests on our way for the sundowners, a snack break while watching the sun set. It was going to be a good one as the sun was near the horizon and as orange as could be. By the time we parked and got out of the vehicle, the sun had slipped away, and we missed it. Oh well, there will be time for more we are certain. The guys had brought an assortment of beverages, so we chose Windhoek Draught in the bottles and had snacks of assorted nuts and jerky. We lucked out and have only one other guest traveling with us in the vehicle. She is about our age and is from England. Her husband is on a fishing expedition in Zimbabwe. Different, but it works for them.
We were back to the camp before 9pm with enough time for cocktails and snacks before joining the rest of the group in the boma area of the dining room. Located on the lower level, there is a center concrete pad for a wood fire, a chimney, and an BBQ corner where Dale, one of the owners prepared savory lamb chops for all of us. But first, we were served a hot bowl of butternut squash soup with toasted croutons followed by a small salad. The lamb chops arrived with the best zucchini and seasoned sliced potatoes on the side. Then a dessert of cheesecake was served, followed by the best part of the meal…..a small glass of Amarula liqueur. Once you try that, you'll be a fan for life. We were offered any drink we wished as well as wine, which we do not drink. We were happy with ice water. It was close to 10pm, and we were more than ready to call it a day.
Back in our suite, we found the welcome bottle of champagne on ice set in front of the claw-foot bathtub filled with hot water and sprinkled with flower petals. A card was there welcoming us back with a wish we enjoy our stay once again. Really nice touch.
One of us stayed up until 11pm, and decided not to finish the blog as it would take another 2 hours to complete. The four-poster bed with the tied-off mosquito netting was calling my name. After a quick shower, we were both set for the night…………until the 4am alarm went off. More to come…..
Bill & Mary Ann
