Both of us were awake at 4:30am, perhaps due to the clock changes recently. Sometimes it is very difficult to adjust the time too many days close together. The sunrise would be within the hour, so we quietly took blankets and a pillow out on our veranda to watch from there. We had not realized it, but during the night it had rained quite a lot, leaving the floor outside with an inch or more of water. Surprise, surprise….we came in and got our flip-flops and that worked. We heard later at breakfast that part of the Lido Restaurant had flooded.
We saw the strangest thing……several white birds possibly tropicbirds, went flying past the ship in the complete darkness. It was as if the lights on the promenade deck attracted them. They flew erratically like the wind was blowing them as if they were tumbleweeds. Somewhere else in the world we saw this, but cannot recall where it was. But then, it is not very often we are up that early. The cloud cover was so complete, there was hardly a sunrise at all. Oh well you can't win them all, we say. Trying to get the perfect photo of these birds was near impossible due to the lack of light and the speed they were flying. It might take 100 pictures to get one good clear one.
It turned out our arrival to Pago Pago Harbor was delayed by ½ hour due to a cargo ship that had to come out first. A local tugboat was waiting for us as we entered the harbor. It sure looked like it was going to be a rainy day with temps in the high 70's and the humidity a ridiculous 89%. And this was at 7am. But you ever know what would lay ahead, since the day was just beginning.
Well our breakfast was ½ hour late because we did not want to miss the welcome show on the pier. Local high school kids and some adult leaders sang and danced dressed in their traditional costumes while the Zaandam pulled alongside the dock. The current Miss American Samoa was center front following the dance steps of the girls. This energetic and quite loud group entertained us all for at least one hour while one of the elder ladies narrated the dance. This has got to be one of the memorable places in the world that we always receive this type of overwhelming greeting. It happens less and less elsewhere with every cruise we take….even the Grand World Voyage.
Arsa knew we would be at the welcome show, and he saved our table for us. More folks came in after us even though it would close at 9am. Then at 9:30am, there was another emergency crew drill that would last for one hour. Good time to leave, since most of the tour groups would be gone already. There were only a few excursions here today starting with myths and legends for 3 hours and $110. Have you ever been to a village Ava or Kava ceremony? They offered one today for 3 hour and $120. We did it more than once, and that was enough for us. Pretty hard to drink a concoction that looks like muddy water and pretend you like it, or fear offending your host. A taste of Samoa life was 3 hours and $140 and the East side Island Drive and beach stop was 3 hours and $90. And as always, there were many vendors outside the gate offering similar excursions for far less money. We said no thanks, we are just taking a walk.
One of us was on a double mission to locate another Samoan cuff bracelet with yellow and black colors. Orange would work too, if they had them. When we left the dock area, we turned right and discovered a craft market that was set up near the produce market building by the name of Fagatogo Market. Out of all of the tented stalls and the marketplace, we found only 2 or 3 that were the type I was searching for. It was a bargain at $8. This bustling market and outdoor tents with produce, handicrafts, and scores of souvenirs was full of shoppers from the ship, which was nice to see.
Further up the road a piece, we located the Tool Store, which is similar to an Ace Hardware store where we live. Our search was for ice or gel packs to use for the back pain. Since we have a refrigerator with a small freezer, it would be far easier than getting ice twice a day for the ziplock bags that eventually leak. Our room stewards have been so helpful supplying the ice, but we know they have better things to do. Anyway, we inquired with the owner if he carried these, and his answer was no. He asked if we were trying to keep food cold, and we said no, it was for ice therapy. He hesitated, then said, wait here while I go upstairs and look through some boxes. About 10 minutes later, he came back with a large packet of a gel that was used to ship something that needed freezing. We said that would work just fine and when we asked how much it was, he said nothing….just take it. He refused to take any money and wished us well. Wow, how often does that happen? We thanked him for his kindness and headed back to this ship. Anyway, this was the Tool Store on the main road in Pago Pago and we highly recommend going there for household and hardware items. He also sold pet food.
Normally, we make or way around the back end of the harbor to the tuna processing complex, but it was not do-able for one of us. We turned around where the National Park of American Samoa was located, but it was closed due to the government shutdown. Also closed is the almost new McDonald's where wifi was available for free. We believe there is another one in a village close to Pago Pago. A new impressive structure has been in the making for the last three years, which we think is a government building. Also here is the Jean P. Haydon Museum full of info of the area's rich cultural heritage. It is housed in two former Naval buildings.
It was close to noontime, so we went back onboard to cool off and re-hydrate, as well as download some photos. By 1:30pm, we went off and turned left this time all the way to Goat Island and Sadies by the Sea. It's about a mile walk there from the pier. The Goat Island Café was our destination where they serve some very excellent fish & chips or even better, chicken quesadillas. And it was busy, of course, with ship guests and locals too. We took a table near the bar and a sliding glass door where there were ceiling fans. It took more than one ice cold Vailima beers to help cool us off. These canned brews are a local batch with almost 17 ounces and an alcohol content of almost 7%. Just what we needed. We shared one large grilled chicken and cheese quesadilla with sauces of salsa, sour cream, and guacamole. So good. Our Pinnacle Grill waitress Santi stopped by our table to say hi. She and some friends had been hiking and came here like us to cool off. Nice to see the kids getting out and having some fun, even if it was hiking in this heat and humidity. Once again it's nice to be young.
We headed back to the ship passing the tall trees where the fruit bats reside. In fact, we think this whole village is full of these large bats, but you normally would only see them at dusk, when they fly for their evening of eating insects and nectar. Back at the pier, we had some time to visit with the security fellow at the gate. He told us that his wife and child live in the San Francisco area (he asked where we were from), but he could not get a visa to travel there. Things have gotten very complicated these days when it comes to immigration. We wished him luck then proceeded to the info table where the local ladies were giving directions and handing out excellent maps of Samoa. Earlier we had been sitting on our veranda, and spotted a fellow passenger buying one of the bouquets that had been used to decorate the cyclone fencing on the way out. Well, we asked the lady, and she said take one….please. For free? Yep, and here are some scissors to cut the tie wrap off of the fence. With that said, we thanked her and packed the big bouquet onboard. Back in the room, one of us re-did the flowers and greens and made a very lovely bouquet, also making a mess, which we carefully cleaned up. What a lucky day we had with "free" stuff.
There were a few stragglers running back onboard right before the 5:30pm all aboard time. A few of the local ladies, including Miss American Samoa, came to wish us goodbye. Yes, we had enjoyed our stay here more than ever. And you know what? The sun actually came out after all. Captain Willems came on with his talk about ½ hour earlier, due to the fact some folks have complained his talks have interfered with their dinnertime. Geez, some people are weird. He said we had 91 nautical miles to reach Apia, Upolu, Samoa tomorrow morning. It would require a speed so slow that the ship rolled somewhat all of the way.
Dinnertime had some treats. Appetizers were Bolognaise and cheese arancini's and two different salads. Mains were the best bacon-wrapped cheese-stuffed meatloaves with mashed potatoes and peas & carrots. A true comfort dinner for sure, it was really tasty. Desserts were a small chocolate tart and a plate of fresh juicy pineapple, although bananas would have been nice but they have all gone soft and over-ripe.
Hope the gel pack freezes to be able to use it this evening. Hope it helps…..
Tomorrow we will be in another Samoan island and another date and day. We crossed the international dateline and lost Sunday, October 19th. Don't worry, we will get it back soon enough.
Bill & Mary Ann
