Report #117 Thursday April 25, 2024 Sea Day #3 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 85 Degrees 75% Humidity 12 mph Winds---Casual Dress

 

Today was Anzac Day, similar to our Veteran's Day in the US we believe.  The officers, staff and crew of the Zuiderdam expressed their gratitude for all those that lost their lives in the service of their countries.  At 6:30am there was a remembrance service held at the Sea View Poolside.  Our buddy Greg, who is an Australian citizen, attended the ceremony and also had a reading for the small group of folks that represented the Commonwealth countries onboard right now. 

 

Well, we are still working on the details of our flight home that was adjusted back in January.  A message sent directly from the airline to us indicated our seats had been changed, and we were not even in the same row.    Michelle promised to check this out with the air/sea department in Seattle once the company opened for business.

 

It was surely going to be another warm and sticky day with temperatures in the 80's and the humidity at 75%.   The winds were of no help at 11mph.   Something we noticed yesterday was that the flying fish are back, jumping when the ship cuts through the waters.  It must be due to the fact that the temperature of the water equals the air temps.  Lucky for these flying fish there are no birds anywhere to be seen.  At least, not yet…..

 

Unfortunately we missed the display of the hundreds of blankets that were either knitted or crocheted at the Linus Project group that met every sea day for 2 hours in the morning.   We understand that this is the largest amount ever created.  Nice to see so many busy hands and happy hearts, as the saying goes.

 

We had our daily visit with Greg and he told us there was a Seafood Symphony in the Lido Market starting at 11:30am.  It did seem to be busy when we passed through the restaurant before they opened the curtains.  Then Kimberly came on the speakers and invited all seafood lovers to indulge in clams, mussels, scallops, and lobster among  other seafood items.   By the time we were on our way back to our room, we had to wiggle through the lines at every station….it was so crowded.  Many of the officers and staff were among those indulging as well. 

 

Michelle, our girl Friday, followed through with a phone call late this afternoon with the news that our original airline seats were still on file and all was correct with the flight.  Good news, as long as nothing changes in the meantime.  In a few days, we will need to start packing….yuck.  It used to be easy with no size or weight restrictions, but now we have a limit of 50# in an airline size piece of luggage.  We did bring less, but will be wishing we brought a lot less.  We will be sending 9 pieces of luggage back home, only keeping our hand carrys to go to the hotel for one night, then fly home Sunday the 12^th.  It will be here before we know it.

 

Dinner had the best chicken tenders with a honey mustard drizzle.  They went well on top of a Caesar salad.   The soup was split pea, full of diced ham and sausage.  One of us ordered the pork tenderloin without the bean smear (sounds awful – looked awful), and one of us had the every day lasagna.  Totally full, there was no room for dessert.  We had inquired as to when the veal chop might show up on the Club Orange menu.  Hazel, our head waiter, said they would have it tomorrow.   But we have reservations in the Pinnacle Grill tomorrow evening, so she said she will ask if they can serve it to us the following day.  Of course, that will be great…hope they remember.

 

There was an interesting activity at 8:30pm, which turned out to be star gazing on deck 10 in the Retreat area.  Astronomer Ted Blank, a guest speaker,  would conduct the session (weather permitting).    We did see a full moon after we left the dining room, so the skies were clear enough for this event to happen. 

 

Another option was going to see the Afro Poper Trio perform their classically trained songs in the World Stage. 

 

One more sea day, and we will be in Ghana….docked in the city of Takoradi to be precise.   We need to catch up on Kimberly's talk of this African country tomorrow on TV. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

37 Pictures

Report #116 Wednesday April 24, 2024 Sea Day #2 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 75 Degrees 80% Humidity 16 mph Winds---Dressy Night

 

What a difference a day makes, as the song goes.  The temperature was at least 10 degrees warmer as we sail north towards the Equator once again.   We were wishing for it to warm up a little, but perhaps we wished too hard.   In the days to come, we will be missing some of those cooler days in Cape Town and Namibia.  

 

After breakfast, we stopped by our room to find 2 gifts had been left on the bed.  They were two duffel bags ( folded and zipped in an attached pouch) with a card saying a grand farewell gift for you.  The Captain and crew wish you many happy returns.   These are similar to the one gifted last year, but these are better because they have wheels.  They are too large for a carry-on piece of luggage for the airplane, but would work for a medium size suitcase.  Shiv mentioned that besides the duffels, we would be receiving the commemorative plates next week.  It will be interesting to see the ports written on them since the itinerary had changed so much. 

 

We decided today was a good one to do some future cruise bookings to get the extra credit for booking onboard.  So with what looked to be a very interesting lecture at 10am all about diamonds, smugglers, and spices of Namibia, perhaps many guests would attend that.  Wrong.  There was a line of folks that had signed the list, but the good thing was that there were two people doing the bookings…..Melanie and Justin.  The wait was about 40 minutes, but we were comfortable in the over-stuffed chairs across from their desks.  Since we knew exactly what we wanted to book, it did not take Justin long to put it together.  We specifically told him not to apply any future cruise credits to those cruises and he said fine.  We wanted it on the GWV for 2025.  Our travel agent received the bookings within an hour, and she warned us that he had applied the credit to the Alaska cruises.   She will be able to fix it before all is set in stone.  And thanks to her, she will continue to keep an eye out for any and all special deals that will pop up with these trips.   Like getting complimentary gratuities or HIA perks or better pricing.

 

Now that the days are sliding by rapidly, we thought we had better do a quick check with the airlines for our flight home.    Back in January, our HAL-booked air had been changed with times that did not work for us.  No one likes to get home at midnight.  Michelle, our girl Friday, had worked to get a better flight time and did just that.  The most important thing was to secure a straight-through flight with no stop-over on the way.  We had that confirmation in printing in January and thought all was correct.

 

Well…..paying a visit to the guest relations this morning, the confirmation I showed was not the same as the info on their computer.  Now they said the flight was leaving a 7am with a stop in Texas, followed by a later flight to SF getting us in after 10pm.  Where did that come from?  And why had no one informed us of this change?   They promised to contact Seattle and have the air/sea department investigate.  That put a lot of stress on a day that was meant for relaxing.  Finally, at 5pm, we got a call from Michelle who said the flight number had changed and the time out of Ft. Lauderdale was at 7am.  The stop in Texas was gone.   That much was good, however, looking closer at a message sent directly to us from the airline, we discovered our seats were not together.   The form that Michelle sent to our room had the correct seat numbers.   Crazy, huh?  We shall pay another visit to Michelle tomorrow and hope she can secure the original seats….aisle and middle in the same row.  The lesson here was not to wait until the last minute to double check what was originally correct.  Truthfully, we are learning not to trust anything anymore. 

 

Going to the Seaview Pool by noontime, we found several more passengers back there taking advantage of the warm sun.   It did not last too long,  since the clouds moved in and blocked he sun.  We spent the remainder of the day working online and catching up on the next couple of ports to write about.  There aren't many left….  Ghana, The Gambia, Cape Verde, and Puerto Rico.  Where has the time gone we all ask?

 

The theme for tonight's "dressy" dinner was "An Evening in Paris".  Why we don't know as France was never on the itinerary.   But it was an opportunity to add some French cuisine to the menu…namely escargots (not our favorite) and surf and turf.  Starters were the everyday shrimp cocktails, which we get five now and not four.  They are smaller, but still tasty.  Salads were one Caesar and one nicoise without the tuna.  Mains were Coq Au Vin and the everyday chicken alternate.  Both were just fine.  The little bananas are still good, so one of us ordered a sliced one.

 

Tomorrow will be the third day at sea, and we do expect it to warm up even more.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

No Pictures

Report #115 Tuesday April 23, 2024 Sea Day #1 Of 4 Enroute To Takoradi, Ghana Clouds With Some Sun 66 Degrees 89% Humidity 22mph Winds---Casual Dress

 

We had a pleasant surprise while at breakfast this morning.   One of our waitresses spotted a whale blow in the distance and told all of us.  She was correct, as we also saw another large blow in the same area.  The whale never did surface, but we did some research and found that this is an area where both the right and humpback whales migrate.  Perhaps other types too.  The season begins in June and lasts until October we read.  They would be leaving the Antarctic and Southern Oceans to head north.  Of course, we kept a watch for more sightings the rest of the day but saw none. 

 

What one of us did see were some very large birds flying low over the water and wave crests.  They appeared to be the wandering albatrosses from the photos that were taken.  Even at a distance, you could see the 10 foot wingspan as they glided easily in the wind.  Some other types of sea birds were among them, but too far to identify.    That made two surprises today. 

 

Other than that, the morning began partly cloudy, but a bit warmer than yesterday.  If there was any fog, it was high and dissipated by late morning.  We did get in some "sun" time for over an hour at the Seaview Pool, until the clouds blocked the rays.  Greg stopped by for a chat as we compared what we have all done for the last couple of ports.  He had gone to the Seder Dinner which was held in one side of the Lido Market last night by reservation only.  We recall the days of the Empire chicken, which was enough to feed four people let alone one person.  He had saved half of it in his refrigerator to enjoy with today's lunch.  Good idea. 

 

It was time for a light lunch, which we had in our room with chicken Caesar salads.  The rest of the afternoon was catch-up time from yesterday's exploits.   It was such a fun day walking the lagoon, we enjoyed the photos as much as we did while being there.   The hike was good, but today was nice to be able to relax a bit.  We will have three more sea days to do that.

 

There are some new speakers onboard that continued to deliver lectures.  Presenter David spoke on the economics of empires, while Kate talked all about the ins and outs of the Congo.  In addition, there is a guest chef Bridgit who gave a demo in the Rolling Stones Lounge.  Another lecturer, Duncan, spoke all about a confederate warship, the CSS Alabama that raided South Africa.  

 

We had two events tonight.  One was an invite to a combined suite and President's Club cocktail party that was held in The Retreat on deck 11.  It was titled "Out of Africa" and began at 6:30pm.   Last year, this same event was held also while we were in Africa, but it was really crowded.  This year, we guess that only half of the guests attended and the other half were the Captain, some of his officers and many staff members.  Some of the guests bundled up, including one of us, as it had been chilly later in the day.  However up here, we did have the tents to stand under with the high top tables.  A full service bar was set up as well as wines served.  Some canapies were passed around, however, most of these guests had just come from the early seating dinner and passed on more food.    Nyron was the DJ and he played the soft music a notch or two down from last year.  Much better.  We had a nice visit with Kimberly, Shiv and Presty as well as some other guests we have know for ages. 

 

The next event wasn't really an event, but another dinner in the Pinnacle Grill at 8pm.  We were among the last to leave the party, but it worked out perfectly.   Our breakfast waitress was our dinner waitress.  She teased us that it seemed like she just saw us.  Technically that was 12 hours ago.   Anyway, we ordered our wedge salads with clothesline bacon.  To tell the truth, that would have been plenty for dinner.   But we did end of ordering the boneless ribeye steaks which were cooked to perfection.   We both agreed these steaks, although large,  had the best taste comparing them to the filet.  Adding a half potato, we still had trouble finishing the steaks.  So we asked for a "doggie bag" and our cute waitress Yulia, wrapped up the two pieces of meat in a foil container folded into a swan.   We shared a small slice of Key Lime pie…the smallest they could find, and found it was just enough.  No chocolates or coffee, we were happy and full campers tonight.   

 

Looking forward to another sea day, hoping the weather will warm up a little more.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

52 Pictures

Report #114 Monday April 22, 2024 Walvis Bay, Namibia 8am-6pm Docked Starboard Side To Pier Morning Fog Clearing To Sun Shine 85 Degrees 45% Humidity 25mph Winds ---Casual Dress

 

Walvis Bay was our port of call today, however upon arrival, we could not see it.  Pea soup fog was what we saw early this morning and the ship's horn was going off every three minutes.  It is a sound that makes us quite nervous especially in an area where ships wrecked centuries ago.  During breakfast, we were able to see the outline of the local tugboat assisting the ship being docked.  It would clear up later….we hoped.

 

Once a thriving whaling port, Walvis Bay survives on  shipping, fishing, and salt production.  It is said that they produce over 400,000 tons of salt a year.  It also houses the commercial ships as well as some cruise ships.  The city's lagoon is a haven for migratory birds like herons, pelicans, egrets, and especially the flamingoes as we would see later.   Seals, whales (in season), dolphins and turtles can be spotted in this lagoon. 

 

There was a huge tanker that was bunkering fuel to the ship and it stayed there all day.  Going out on our veranda was not an option because this ship was giving off some pretty stinky exhaust and fumes.   The vessel would stay there most all day.  And there were free shuttles that had drop-offs at the Waterfront and the Dunes Mall on the outskirts of town.  For some reason, the first stop at the Waterfront had been dropped. So it was a ride to the Mall only – a 10 minute drive. 

 

There are many things to see and do here and the ship's tours covered most all of them.  A 4 hour excursion called Go Local – the real Namibia was $200 and included a taste of local food.  A dolphin and seal safari was also 4 hours for $230, while a drive to Swapokmund for 5 hours was $270.  This German town is located 21 miles from Walvis Bay and is described as swanky with a fine urban scene.  Considered the adventure capital of Namibia, you can skydive, ride horses, or sandboard down a 300 meter high sand dune.   Of course, the tour does not take in any of these activities, but you can do it on your own.  A visit to the lagoon with a drive to the dunes for 7 ½ hours was $430, and Sandwich Harbor with a 4x4 sand dune ride with snacks and a drink was 4 ½ hours for $530.  A Namib Desert tour to see welwitschia plants, lizards, snakes and the dunes with a snack and beverage was 4 ½ hours for $600.  A similar trip to see the living desert was $650 for 4 ½ hours.  The most pricey tour was a flight over Sussusvlei for 4 ½ hours for $2400 per person.  We cannot figure out why these tours are so expensive.  Whether it is due to high insurance rates or the small number of tour guides and vehicles might drive the rates up.  We have our doubts that a lot of guests booked these tours today.  In fact some friends of ours decided to cancel their $600 desert drive after having second thoughts about it.  Can't say we blame them.  

 

On past cruises, we had taken the tour to Swakopmund with our travel group and host.  Back then it was reasonable and better-priced because our group was not affiliated with HAL tours at that time.  Anyway, there were two coaches of us that day, but halfway to the German town, one of the buses broke down.    This was in the middle of the desert with no services anywhere near to help.  The tour guide called a garage back in Walvis Bay, but being it was a Saturday, they had closed early for the weekend.  There was not another bus to come pick up the guests.  This was bad, since it was hot and they only had a limited amount of bottled water with them.  Our driver got word of the break down, and he was able to take some of the guests (mostly ladies) on our coach.  These people had to sit on the floor of the bus to hide from the police because the driver would have been fined.   Long story short…our bus went directly to the restaurant in Swapokmund where we had lunch.  The other guests never arrived.  In fact, the remaining guests that were stuck in the desert did not return to the ship until close to the all aboard time.  That was one excursion none of us will ever forget. 

 

Our plan for today was to make our way to the Walvis Bay Lagoon.  Leaving the ship by 10am, we walked to the gate where we found the nomadic group of vendors selling their African treasures along the sandy side of the main road.  Fewer than last year's group, they were selling wooden carvings of African animals, bowls, woven baskets, masks, and innumerable trinkets.  Some vendors even had wooden furniture like end tables to bargain for.  All of these items had to be turned in at the ship's entrance to be frozen for a day or more.   It does kill the unwanted pests like borers.

 

We passed through the center of the seated vendors" just looking" while avoiding the offers of tours.  "No thanks" seemed to work pretty good.   We continued down this street to the Protea by Marriott Hotel and the Waterfront  Restaurant.  We turned left here and headed to the lagoon.  What a treat we were in for.  From a distance, we could see a flock of hundreds of birds flying towards the lagoon where the tide was out.  It was a gigantic flock of greater flamingoes that migrate here every year.  The entire lagoon was full of the pink, white, and black flamingoes.  Many of them were juveniles.  They were much smaller and lighter in color than the adults who measure from 4 to 5 feet with the wing span and weigh up to 8 pounds.  It was really interesting watching their behavior as they fed on the krill and brine shrimp in the shallows of the lagoon. 

 

Joining them were many gulls such as the Cape gull and other than looked like silvers.   Two very large Dalmatian pelicans were hanging close to the stainless steel fish- cleaning tables along the wide walkway that lines the lagoon.   Bet the fishermen give them scraps.  Other smaller water birds we spotted were dunlins, ruddy turnstones, and pied avocets.   There may have been some cormorants, but they were far away in the deeper water.   Also along the sandy exposed banks were red splotches of stranded jellyfish.   They must not be good to eat since the scavenger birds stayed clear of them.   Local pigeons and gulls were drinking water from the sprinklers watering the grass.

 

The paved walkway was called the Esplanade and continued for a few miles to a sandy beach at the very end of the lagoon's peninsula.  This area is mostly residential with some of the nicest homes, bed and breakfast inns, and small bungalows with gardens.  We felt safe enough, but we have heard some scary stories from folks that actually lived here in Walvis Bay.  There were times in the past (and maybe today as well) that crime was a problem.  The locals had to hire security guards to keep watch when they left their garages in their cars and came back later.  We think for that reason, very few local people were out and about.  And today was Monday, and the kids would be in school.   Most of this esplanade was planted with grass and many palm trees.  Not too much else grows here in the way of trees, except maybe hardy ground covers and a few Norfolk Island pines.    They are very strict about keeping the paths clean of dog litter.  Many humorous signs are posted along the way.   

 

One nice feature are the benches, which are placed every 100 feet or so.  And because of them, we were able to walk so far while enjoying the antics of the flocks of both adult and juvenile groups of flamingoes.  We spent all of three hours at the lagoon before heading back for lunch.  It was a bird-lovers photographic opportunity for sure as hundreds of pictures were taken by us and many others. 

 

And to top off a good day, we had the best Hawaiian pizza so far this trip at a restaurant over the lagoon.    We had earned the draft beers of Hansa and Windhoek, both brewed in Namibia.   Wood-fired, the crust was allowed to rise just enough so there was a crispy ring around the edges.  We had asked for extra cheese, and they added more shredded cheddar, adding to the taste and texture.  Extra calories too, but who's counting at this point?   For dessert, we had spotted Mississippi Mud Pie on the menu, but sadly, they only had it for dinner.  We settled for a slice of a warm brownie with vanilla sauce drizzled with chocolate sauce and sprinkled with slivered almonds.  Glad we shared just one. 

 

Outside the restaurant was a vendor that made us promise to look at his treasures after lunch.  One of us settled on a thin woven blue beaded bracelet which will add to the two larger ones already owned from last year.  Passing the corner craft market, we saw many people buying like crazy from the vendors.  Did we mention that some of the native women were conservatively topless, if there is such a word for it?  Of course, they are there to attract some customers who will blatantly take pictures, upon which they will ask for money.  At the very least, the group was not using half-naked young girls to draw a crowd.  Last year, they even had tiny nursing babies there.   Sorry, but we don't approve of using the young or older ladies as props to garner money.  From what we saw, the passengers were having a fine time buying up a storm as the prices were right.

 

Back on the ship around 3pm, we attended the departure process with the customs and immigration folks in the Stuyvesant/Hudson Room on deck three.  It went quickly with several agents who scanned our passports and added the stamp inside.  Then the guest relations folks collected the passports, giving us receipts once again.  Our room keys were stickered with a green label this time, we assume indicating we had completed the process and could no longer leave the ship.  No more shopping for us….a good thing.

 

At the same time, the show in the World Stage was about to take place with the Bernhard Nordkamp Centre Children Choir Performance.   Kimberly held the start up for more guests to fill the room.  We had seen the entire group boarding the ship with their director and escorts in the morning, and the kids looked really excited to be here.   This was a last minute visit, since today the ship was supposed to be in Kusadasi, Turkey.  We stayed for most of the show, but a guest right next to us was having a coughing spell, and we decided we could safely watch this when it was repeated on the TV.  No way did we want to chance getting a cold or who knows what at this point of the trip….knock on wood.

 

At 4:45pm, Captain Friso said our departure from here was going to be delayed from 6pm to midnight, due to strong winds that had developed.  The exit from the harbor was narrow, so he figured he could easily make up the lost time in the next four days it will take to arrive to Ghana.  Kimberly followed up with a request for all guest to PLEASE turn in their passports.  To be fair, all aboard was 5:30pm, and the guests may still be bargaining for souvenirs outside the gate….having every right to do so.  Or some tours might be arriving late.  By the way, when the one couple that were singled out for the Cape Town immigration check, it turned out they did indeed complete the inspection, but the ship's scanning of their cards did not register.  We all think they deserve an apology, which may have occurred, but we did not hear it. 

 

We tried to keep dinner light with chicken noodle soup (not quite the same as it used to be) and  salads.  One empanada appetizer was good, as were the mains of chicken parmigiana and breaded lamb chops, a first time for those and really tasty.  No dessert tonight, just coffee… good and hot.  And our waiters did remind us of an hour back on the clocks this evening, always good news.

 

The entertainer was Gary Sletcher, an instrumentalist with the saxophone and guitar, singing music from the 60's to African jazz and pop. 

 

Looking forward to four full days at sea on the way to another African country of Ghana.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

336 Pictures

Report #113 Sunday April 21, 2024 Luderitz, Namibia 8am-5pm Anchored Port Side Facing The Town Morning Fog Clearing To Sun Shine 78 Degrees 50% Humidity 5mph Winds

 

The Zuiderdam entered the bay outside of the town of Lüderitz early this morning just as the sun was rising.  Today we would be at anchor and tender to shore.  Right after breakfast, our deck was called to attend the face-to-passport inspection held in the upper dining room.  All we needed was our room key, our passports, and the correct arrival forms filled out and signed.  It went quickly, and once again, while waiting in the line that passed through the photo shop, cookies and water were offered to all.  Tempting, but we just had a nice breakfast that included fresh strawberries probably from Cape Town.   Nice. 

 

The ship's tour offered today were a walking tour with the highlights of Lüderitz for 2 ½ hours for $80.  Two other excursions for $180 were a 2 hour tour to Kolmannskop, the deserted mining town.  The other one was a 3 ¾ hour boat ride to Halifax Island to see wildlife such as little penguins, cormorants, seals, and Heaviside dolphins.  Finally there was a ride to see the wild horses of Namibia for 4 hours and $350.   It was possible they might also see some gemsbok, springbok and ostriches if they came to the same waterhole.

 

We took a tour to the ghost town the first time we visited here.  It just so happened that we came a day after a once in one hundred year rainstorm.  Needless to say, it was a muddy mess.  However we do recall the story of when the 1908 railway workers happened upon some shining stones in the sand they were digging.  Turned out they were diamonds.  The town built up by Germans who built fancy homes, a hospital, ballroom, a power station, school, roads and a theater.  A sports hall was constructed along with a casino, butchery, bakery and an ice factory.  There were 300 adults and 40 kids, mostly German.  There were also 800 local Native Ovamba workers.  The production of the diamonds lasted 40 years, then it ceased to produce.  Eventually all of the people left, and the town was deserted….much the same as it can be seen today.   At the time we went there, the guide told the story and then we were left to explore on our own. 

 

We left the ship by 10:30am, right before open tenders were announced.  It was an easy tender ride with smooth waters.  Kimberly announced twice before we left that no wheelchairs no scooters could be taken ashore.   The ramp at the tender landing was too narrow and steep to accommodate them.  Bet there were some disappointed folks, since this was the first we heard about the gangway onshore. 

 

There were a handful of local tour guides that approached all of us as we got to the complex.  They were polite and not trying to pressure anyone.  A "no thanks" worked well here.  What we noticed right away was the fact that hardly any of the locals were out and about, due to the fact it was Sunday.  Most everything was closed, except the supermarket across the street which closed by noontime. 

 

Having just been here a year ago, we knew the direction to go.  At the roundabout, we turned left and headed uphill passing the many German-style buildings along the way.   Modern businesses such as the power company banks, and some restaurants have moved into these restored structures.    Our destination was Felsenkirche, the German Evangelical Lutheran Church.  Buit in 1912, this church was built on Diamond Hill giving it the name of Church on the Rocks.  It was opened to visitors and all that could make the hike up there were welcomed inside. 

 

Going around the side of this church, we looked over the cliff and discovered the hotel down below on the water.  We always thought this was a resort, but upon closer inspection, we saw it was the Nest Hotel.  Kimberly had not mentioned this hotel in her talk, so that may be a good thing.  All the more reason to find a way there for a good lunch venue. 

 

It was a long walk back downhill, where we took a left turn at the bottom.   We did find the paved road there, but it soon turned to gravel the closer we got to the hotel.  It appeared we were the only "cruise ship" people there at 11:45am.  We were led to the Penguin Restaurant on the lower level of the hotel.  When asked by the friendly waiter if we liked inside or outside dining, we naturally said outside in the patio please.   Seated at a table under an umbrella facing the bay, we ordered the local lager, Hansa draft beer which we had earned with the walk.  We have to mention it was warm in the sun, but we were saved by a fresh cool breeze coming off of the fog bank. 

 

We spent almost two leisurely hours enjoying the beer and food.  One of us ordered a club sandwich, l the other more adventurous person had the crusted calamari  rings.   Both entrees came with chips (French fries).  The calamari was reported to be the best he ever tasted, but we suspected that would be the case here.  The portions were most generous, but we did save some room for a shared dessert.   Having seen Malva pudding on Cape Town's menus, we decided to give the local African treat a try.  It consisted of a warm spongy spiced cake drenched in vanilla custard sauce.  Very good.  We complimented the waiter on the new dessert for us and for some reason, it never showed up on our bill.  The price may have been $2 USD or so, but we made it up with the tip.  The American Express did not work here, only Visa we believe.  So we paid in South African rand, which is almost identical in value to the Namibian dollar.   This meal with four 500 ml beers came to under $30 USD.  Still a good deal in our opinion. 

 

From here we walked back slowly, recommending the Penguin Restaurant to two gals coming from the ship like we did.  They thought it was closed to the public.  We are sure they were glad to go there as well.  Even though it was only 2pm, the town was deserted….looking the same as the ghost town in the hills.  There was one restaurant opened near the port called the Portuguese Fishery and was packed with cruise ship guests.   

 

A tender boat was waiting, so we passed by the few wooden carved souvenirs (we already have them all) and boarded the boat back.   It was a rougher ride this time, maybe because we think the driver was being trained by two other sailors.  We were back to our room by 3pm, where we stayed working on photos until sail away time.  Captain Friso came on the speakers around 4:30pm and sounded so pleased with today's warm and cool weather as well as the fog and sun.  He said we have 249 nautical miles to go to reach Walvis Bay tomorrow at a speed of 19 knots.  Although he expected high winds, he said the seas and swells will remain at 6 feet or so.  Sounds good to us. 

 

We agreed that the more times we come here, the more we like it as we discover more and more about the town as well as the best places to dine.

 

Within a short time after leaving the bay, we hit the fogbank and sailed north towards our next stop at Walvis Bay.  The Captain added that our stay there will be extended an hour or so later than planned.  Also fine with us.

 

Dinnertime found a nice small appetizer of sesame chicken with the good sweet and sour sauce.  Caesar salads again followed by delicious grilled pork chops with apple chutney and mashed potatoes for one of us and rice for the other.    We are not fans of kale or quinoa, so substitutes like potatoes and rice worked well for us. Our waiters are so good at getting everything right even though we add and subtract many sides. 

 

There was a show tonight with a local vocal group called the Afro Popera Trio.  A mix of opera, and Neopolitan songs (sounds like ice cream to us) was guaranteed to please everyone. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann

325 Pictures

Report #112 Saturday April 20, 2024 Sea Day Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia Overcast Skies 59 Degrees 90% Humidity 9mph Winds Sea State: Flat Cooler----Casual Dress

 

This morning began as a dismal day outside and remained that way all day long.  We barely saw the sun which was covered with a low-lying overcast and high clouds.   So it was a good day to work on photos and reports.  Also a good time to pay a visit to the Luggage Forward rep who joined the ship on the 18^th.    Her times were from 9 to 12pm and again in the afternoon for two hours.  What we failed to notice was that there was a sign-up sheet for appointments.   Anyway, one of us went down to deck  one and inquired about seeing the rep, who had already begun her work with assigned guests.  A fellow at guest relations suggested to wait and see if the next appointment guest showed up.  If they were running late, I could slip in and see her.  And it worked.  The man who was next only had questions, so I was given the thumbs up to go ahead and see her. 

 

Before we left home, we had already paid for 4 pieces of luggage and received 4 pieces complimentary.  We just needed to add one more bag, the one we had brought to Ft. Lauderdale for our three- night stay.  All we want to bring home are hand carrys on the airplane.    The delivery back to our home is about a week.  By the way, the extra regular duffel bag that will weigh 50 pounds cost $159.   In the "old" days, the charge would have gone directly to our onboard account, using some of the non-cashable credit.  Not anymore.  Now the charge goes directly to the credit card we have on file.    Anyway, that job was done.

 

The other job we had was filling out the arrival and departure forms for Namibia where we will have two stops.  It is one African country that we will not need visas.  We will need to bring the arrival forms with us to the inspection tomorrow morning.  Another job done.

 

Here's a bit of info on the country of Namibia.  The population is 2.4 million people that speak 30 different languages, although English is the official language.  The capital is Windhoek, which is also the name of the local beer.   The names like the Skeleton Coast, Sossusvlei, and Sandwich Harbor and a never-ending deset pf the Kalahari sand dunes are all part of Namibia.  The towns of Luderitz and Swakopmund are settlements created from colonial times when Europeans were on the move from oppression in their homelands.  The majority of settlers came from Germany.

 

The part of Namibia we will not see are Etosha National Park where lions, rhinos, and zebras can be seen at a single waterhole.  It is considered one of the best places on the planet for watching wildlife.   Sossusvlei is an area that has been included in an overland adventure on the regular African itinerary.  With this visit being last minute, we assume arrangements did not work out with the HAL folks.  It is an astounding place of towering sand dunes that originated in the Kalahari Desert millions of years ago. 

 

The Skeleton Coast  is a treacherous stretch of shoreline that has claimed many ships from the distant past .  A ghostly graveyard of shipwrecks have remained here for decades if not centuries.  One thing for sure, this country is far different from where we just came from in South Africa.  We doubt there is another city that can compare to Cape Town.  

 

What kind of food is the favorite of the Namib people?  There are a few staples such as oshifima, a dough-like paste made from millet.  It is served with a stew of meat or vegetables.  Another dish  is called oshiwambo, a tasty combo of spinach and beef.  Sounds a lot like New Joe's Special, a San Francisco treat.  Mealie pap is a basic porridge.  In typical restaurants, you may not find these favorites on a menu, but you will see a more European type cuisine.  There is an abundance of fish items and fried food joints.  In the German settlements, you can expect sausages and sauerkraut.  Locally brewed beers are most popular with Windhoek Lager being number one.

 

Kimberly gave her lecture on both Luderitz and Walvis Bay to prepare us for the next two days.  Then at 1 to 3pm, there was a silent auction for the Bernhard Nordkamp Centre in Namibia.  People were invited to bid on works of art from fellow guests, specialty dinners, navigation maps, and much more.   This children's center offers kids safety, food, education, and sports activities.  100% of all proceeds will go to this foundation and will be presented to their director on April 22^nd before leaving Walvis Bay.    A matinee performance by the kids will happen in the World Stage that afternoon.  When the world cruise comes this way, this same activity happens and has been a huge success.

 

We took a few walks on the promenade deck…almost alone except for our buddy Martha.  She is among the few that is not afraid of cold weather, and like us, takes frequent walks.  Even the Seaview Pool had few guests.  It was not that bad outside, so we filled up two cups of hot chocolate, and sat back there until noon time.  Lunch was Dive-In, followed by dinner with tasty spring rolls, Caesar salads, and one main of crispy Panko-fried shrimp and one entrée of prime rib, which really looked more like roast beef.  No desserts for either of us.  With about 20 days left of this trip, we need to begin cutting back on the size of our meals to get back to normal when we get home.  Not going to be easy.

 

A concert pianist was or entertainer this evening.  His name is Elio Rojas and promised to take folks on a  musical journey of great composers , songs, and pianists that influenced him. 

 

Looking forward to another country in Africa tomorrow.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

No Pictures

Report #111 Friday April 19, 2024 Day #3 Of 3.... Cape Town, South Africa Sailaway At 10pm Enroute To Luderitz, Namibia Foggy With Afternoon Sun 75 Degrees Slight Wind---Casual Dress

 

Day three in Cape Town began mostly clear, but that did not last long.  The fog moved in suddenly and did not dissipate until 10am.  Friends of ours had bought tickets to go up Table Mountain this morning, but seeing the fog come in during our 7:30am breakfast, they changed their minds and turned their tickets back.  Too bad since it did clear up by the time they would have gotten to the top.  

 

We kept busy keeping up with yesterday's photos until around 11am when we finally left the ship.  We were going to walk to the V & A Waterfront, but decided we would take the shuttle instead since it was there and ready to leave.    We could always walk back later.    When we got off of the bus, we noticed many people were on the boardwalk that lines Granger Bay.  Of course we went there right away to see pods of dolphins feeding in the water very near to the rocky walls.  How good was that?  Going to the railing, we must have stayed for at least ½ hour while sight-seeing boats and jet-ski people came to get up close and personal with the jumping dolphins.   This would have been the perfect time to have the dependable and fast camera, but these days we seldom take it off of the ship while in port.   Not only does it attract too much attention, it is heavy.  So we did take many photos of the pods as they fed and cavorted in hopes a few of the shots will come out good.   The weather was so good by then, we hated to leave the deck as it was warm and comfortable. 

 

We walked through the mall to get to the opposite end where the Victorian Basin is located.  The harbor front here is full of attractions and exciting activities.  Some of those include booking a ferry ride to Robben Island for a half day tour to see where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years.  There is a museum to learn about his story there.  Besides boat rides, there are helicopters that will take you to see the peninsula and winelands.  Two Oceans Aquarium is nearby where you can see the marine life in both the Indian and Atlantic Oceans.  And there's always the Cape Wheel where you can have a 360 degree view of the city all from over 120 feet in the air.   Most of these activities take a lot of time, so today it was simply a walk-by.

 

There are 22 historic landmarks that include The Clock Tower, a reminder of the area's seafaring history.  Nobel Square has statues that are a tribute to South Africa's four Nobel Peace Prize laureates.  Tavern of the Seas is a story-telling experience that has an hour long tour with colorful characters.  Then when you get hungry, you can head for the City Farm market for locally grown produce, flowers, and ready-to-eat meals.  The Watershed is a remodeled old shed turned into 150 stalls of African art, crafts, fashion, and jewelry.  It is a place for homewares, crafters, and artisans.  And that is just a sampling of what there is to see and do.  We did discover one two story store that sold the most unusual artistic design  made from discarded parts and pieces of metal and wood.  We did take the time to see most of these sights as well as visit the Watershed which had the most interesting items for sale.   One of us was searching for a pair of matching African beaded earrings to match a bracelet from the safari camp we went to last year.   With all of the displays and aisle stands in this venue, we found nothing even close.  Oh well, there are more African countries to come, and many chances to locate the earrings.

 

By 1pm we had worked up an appetite and decided to try another pizzeria recommended by friends this morning.  The name was Primi Piatti Wharf where we got window seats facing the Granger Bay.  From here we could see that the dolphins were still feeding there.    Today we had one Castle Lite draft beer and one Stella draft.  Both 500 ml. or large.  Our choice of pizza was Hawaiian and it was just as good as yesterday's.  The crust might have been better today.  Desserts were one chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream – the soft type.  And the other dessert was a Pedro amarula parfait with more ice cream on the top.  They were equally good.  The bill was just a tad over $20 with a tip in there as well.  How they keep their restaurant cuisine so reasonable is beyond us.

 

After relaxing for over an hour, we decided to check out the supermarket on the garage level.  It was Woolworth's and was a very nice market.  We were looking for some familiar tortilla chips or potato chips, but their brands were not ones we liked or recognized.  We do have access to the ships onboard, so we bought nothing.  We left the mall by 3pm and took the bus back instead of walking figuring we had walked more than expected just touring the outside areas.

 

Back on the ship, we had certificates waiting for us for rounding the Cape Of Good Hope.  Too bad we were not able to see it through the dense fog a few days ago.  We can add these to the rest of the milestones we have conquered on this trip.   Also there was a reminder that we would have to go through a mandatory immigration inspection in the terminal beginning at 5pm.  We were called by deck which was a great idea.  In the past, they let anyone line up and it was a nightmare with a line down the pier.  Deck six was called off after 6pm, and we did have a line, but it moved quickly.  Our room keys were scanned, then we proceeded to an agent who scanned our passports and stamped them.  The passports were not collected this time.  Then our room keys were stickered to show we had completed the inspection.  From there we went back onboard, since we would not be allowed to go anywhere past the terminal now.  By 6:45pm, Kimberly announced that over 200 guests and crew still needed to do this inspection and they better hurry up.  By the way, if anyone had made big purchases while in South Africa, they could apply for a refund on the VAT or value added tax.  It would be applied to your credit card with the correct documents.

 

Captain Friso came on the speakers with a 6:30pm talk.  He announced tht due to the possibility of the fog returning early this evening, he wished to leave after 9pm and not 11pm as originally planned.   He feared a sudden fog bank could close the port and we would be stuck.  Unfortunately there was a special local show with the South African Choir, a group of kids, singing in the World Stage.  There would be time for one performance at 7:30pm only.   We do hope someone in the tech department was able to film it to put it on TV tomorrow. 

 

We were just eating our salads at dinnertime when Kimberly announced that one couple had not seen the officials yet and if they did not appear soon, they would face a possible fine.  How they missed the afternoon of announcements and a letter that had been sent to all of us, we sure don't know.   They must have showed up, since we did leave the port around 9:30pm.   Dinner was good with a starter of tiny pork meatballs in an aioli sauce, followed by mains of beef brisket with mashed potatoes, carrots and broccoli.  Nothing fancy, just good old comfort food….good and hot.  A  ½ of a sliced banana with warm fudge sauce was just enough for one dessert.  And one coffee as usual.  The dining room guests emptied out of the room early since three days of Cape Town did us all in we think.  Everyone that has spent any time here knows that it is as good as it gets as far as being in a beautiful city and took advantage of that fact by seeing everything they could in three days.  

 

Looking forward to one sea day, then two stops in Namibia….far different from Cape Town for sure. 

 

Bill & Mary Ann 

171 Pictures

Report #110 Thursday April 18, 2024 Day #2 Of 3 In Cape Town, South Africa Docked Port Side To Pier Overnight Till 11pm On April 19, 2024 Fog Clearing To Sunny Skies 68 Degrees--Dressy Night

Looking out the window early this morning, we could not see a thing beyond the railing.  Yep, the fog had come in thicker than yesterday.  You would never know that Table Mountain or Signal Hill were there, let alone the city towers.  And the ship had not moved to the closer berth at 6am as expected.  Our guess is that the port had shut down again, and perhaps the Virgin cruise ship never left the slip at berth E.  By 10am, the fog thinned out and we coud see the mountains again. 

 

It happened to be a special day for one of us…another birthday to celebrate.  There was a Happy Birthday note on our door, compliments of the folks at Guest Services.  Also a blue balloon was taped on the mail slot. 

 

After breakfast, there were more surprises in our room such as a four-tiered towel and colored napkin cake, made by our clever room stewards Putu and Dedi.  Along with several cards, there was a gift from Shiv, our Head of Housekeeping which was much appreciated.  Arriving next was a decorated chocolate cupcake and a card from Captain Friso.  As if this was not enough, later in the day, two small gifts were delivered…..one from the Technical Team and the other from the Nautical Team.  If you all recall, these were gifts from the first birthday back in January.  The tech team sent a hand-made plaque with Happy Birthday on it, and the nautical team sent a woven black bracelet and the noon's ship's coordinates of Latitude 33 degrees 55' S and Longitude 018degrees and 26' E.  The nautical team sent a message saying may your year ahead be filled with exciting adventures, smooth seas, and thrilling discoveries.  And the tech team said may your day be as smooth as our engines, as thrilling as our propellers, and as unforgettable as the open sea.  Here's to setting sail on another incredible year.  Yes, the beginning of another year was off to a good start.  Thanks to all. 

 

At 9:30am there was a different type of ship drill.  This was a test of the room speakers as well as the veranda speakers.  The TV feed was stopped for one full hour as music was filtered through all of the ship's speakers.  It was soft music that was rather pleasant as we caught up on some computer work and reports.  Our room steward came and checked to see if our speakers were all working.  We thanked him and Dedi for doing such a great job with the "towel cake".

 

It was no sense going off of the ship too early since the V & A Marketplace would not open until later.  We left the ship around 10:30am and caught a shuttle which was running on the half hour.  In fact, today there were several shuttles, not just two.  They were nice and roomy too.  The ride to the mall complex took perhaps 15 minutes.  The V & A Marketplace is one of the city's biggest attractions.  There are 500 retail stores, 80 eateries, 22 heritage sights, a food market, and live entertainment.  Some of the shops on the outside of the mall are the Watershed, where arts, crafts, and African clothing are plentiful.  From this complex, you can access the ferry to Robben Island where Mandela spent 18 years incarcerated.  Or you can visit the Aquarium for 235 rand or make a visit to the museum for 250 rand.  The Flywheel was 250 rand as well and was running all day. 

 

We have been to this complex several times over the years, but every time we visit, it is an easy place to get lost.  This time we went to the info desk and got a nice printout of the two levels of the mall.  There are five entrances on the ground level and all head in different directions.  One of us is still trying hard to find a replacement pair of black sandals to wear at dinnertime.  It has become almost impossible task to find such a simple item.   We did look at just about every shoe shop and found nothing that would work.  If you cannot find it here, you'll never find it anywhere.  So we might as well wait until we go home and shop locally.  Or online. 

 

Honestly, we are not huge fans of malls, but there was a reward at the end of the tunnel.  And that was lunch.  Doing some research, we located a wood-fired pizza restaurant right here in the mall.  It was located on level two and the name was Col'Cacchio.  We did inquire first about what type of credit cards they accepted.  Am Ex was one of them.  If not, we would go to a money changer and buy some rand, which we did anyway before we left. 

 

Arriving at 12:30pm, we were lucky to get a nice patio table for two on the railing overlooking the bay beyond the parking lot.  We could hear several foghorns sounding from many ships that were still buried in the pea soup fog offshore.   And here we were, sitting in the sun which was so nice.  We ordered two Castle light draft beers to begin, and then put together a cheesy Margherita pizza with toppings of pepperoni, mushrooms, and onions.  Minced fresh jalapeno peppers, garlic, and extra cheese were added to our table.  And it did add some heat to the pizza.   Wood-fired makes all the difference between a good pizza or a fantastic one.  Today's pizza was close to perfect.  Afterwards, we ordered two desserts.  One was a warm brownie with vanilla ice cream, and the second one was a caramel sauced plates of three crepes sprinkled with slivered almonds.   We shared and liked both of them equally.  Now the good part.  With three large beers, pizza, and dessert, the bill came to a little under $30 USD and that was with an extra tip.  Unbelievable, but nice.

 

It was close to 3pm, so we decided to head back to the ship.  We could save the rest of this complex for tomorrow.  We wondered if the ship had moved in the time we were gone.  Both of us guessed "no".  And we were correct.  Captain Friso came on the speakers and said that he would move the ship when the Virgin Resilient Lady leaves the harbor.  He moved the Zuiderdam by 5:15pm and docked at Berth E by 5:45pm.  The same seal from yesterday, we assume, swam around the azipod section of the aft while we pushed away from the pier.   The gangway was set up, and many guests who had been waiting at this pier came back onboard.   This location will work better for us because we do not need to depend on taking the shuttles.  We can walk since it is a safe place these days. 

 

Directly across from our veranda was the Cape Town Cruise Terminal.  On the second level of the building was a restaurant by the name of Beluga Wine Restaurant where many folks were watching the ship being docked.  Some of the guests were people we know that like this venue.  It is an open-air restaurant, and we could still smell the aroma of something foul in the air.  We had noticed the smell ever since we had docked two days ago and discovered the culprit was the cargo of a commercial ship nearby.  It sure smelled like dried fish, which eventually permeated the ship via the gangway.   It could also be a type of fertilizer too.  Whatever the source,  we will not be free of it until we leave late tonight unfortunately. 

 

Dinnertime arrived and this evening was a "dressy" one.  Why?  Because it was the anniversary of HAL's 151^st Anniversary.  Compared to last year's extravaganza, it was low-key this time.  Most folks did dress for the occasion, but many still showed up in t-shirts and jeans.  Oh well, it is a port day and it would have been a casual night any other time.  The menu had several different choices, but we had the basic shrimp cocktails, salads and the rack of lamb, which was excellent.  We had hoped that the birthday boy had escaped the song and cake, but we were wrong.  The waiters gathered and sang a loud song and then served a large multi-layered cake smothered with whipped cream.  We asked for a small slice, then donated the rest to our waiters.  It was a nice and very sweet way to end the special day. 

 

One more full day in Cape Town, and we will be on our way to Namibia.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

272 Pictures

Report #109 Wednesday April 17, 2024 Cape Town, South Africa Day #1 Of 3 Docked Port Side To Pier 2pm Today Till 11pm On April 19,2024 Dense Fog And Wind Delayed Our Arrival--Casual Dress

 

It seemed that not everything went as planned today.  Beginning with the weather for instance.  When we went to breakfast, it was overcast, but we could see blue skies above the clouds.  It was chilly, but it appeared the sun would come out.  Well, by the time we got back to our room, we saw the visibility was getting less and less.  There was supposed to be a sail-in commentary at 11am by Kimberly and it was to be heard in the Crow's Nest as well as all outside decks.   And as always, it would be broadcasted on the Bow Channel on TV. 

 

Even the Bow was going to be opened as early as 9am, but that was the first activity cancelled due to dense fog and high winds.  The fog was so thick it was like a light shower.  Sure reminded us of San Francisco where the fog can be described as "pea soup" - mostly in the summertime.   The fog horn needed to be sounded every few minutes.  It was eerie to hear horns coming from several nearby vessels, and even scarier since we could not see them at all.   

 

It was decided not to have the commentary on the outside decks, since no one was going outside in this weather anyway.  The TV feed did not happen, but we understand if you went to the Crow's Nest, you would hear Kimberly's commentary.  There was an advertised wine and complimentary cheese selection in the Crow's Nest at the same time.  By accident?  We highly doubt that, because it was an opportunity to sell wine, even if was only 11am.  It's 5 o'clock somewhere, right? 

 

The next thing to go wrong happened to be the fact that due to the dangerous conditions, the Zuiderdam had to stop outside the harbor and wait until the fog lifted.  The port had been closed to ship traffic.  We do know from past experiences that the wind can cause the port to shut down, so this did not surprise us.  It was just yesterday that Captain Friso had mentioned he was going to try and get docked an hour earlier.  At that time, there was no prediction of blinding dense fog.  This weather situation in this area can turn on a dime.  So we waited. 

 

Our scheduled docking was 12pm, so when the tug appeared at the aft of the ship, we knew we might be on our way.   And we were but it was more like 1:15pm by then.  Now the funny thing was once we got out of the fog bank, it was perfectly clear in the harbor and the city.  Even Table Mountain and Signal Peak were visible, with only some fog laying in the canyon between them.   Now if it stays this way all day, we will be most lucky.

 

We were eventually docked at the Cape Town Cruise Terminal Berth L, which was quite a long way from the actual terminal.  Tomorrow morning, we will move closer to Berth E, where we always dock.  There was another cruise ship, The Virgin, who was scheduled to have a turn-around cruise from here today.   We expected them to be in the berth already, but they must have come in after we did.

 

The ship was cleared upon arrival, and the tour groups went off first.  Their buses were lined up and waiting.  However, another snafu of the day were the complimentary shuttles that were supposed to be there as well.   They arrived at 3pm, although the line of guests were out there waiting for an hour, despite the fact it was announced not to be in a hurry to get off.  We watched as several people left the line and went to seek out a taxi or van to town.  We decided to stay onboard and not wait in the long line for the shuttle.  After the ship moves tomorrow, we can walk to the Victoria and Albert Waterfront Complex and forget the bus. 

 

So here's a bit of info on Cape Town, one of the world's most beautiful cities.  Flat-topped and aptly named, Table Mountain dominates the city with its cable car and walking trails.  There are beaches (watch for the great whites), wine estates, and the V&A Waterfront Complex with a modern mall.  Cape Town has undergone an urban renewal and has added world class restaurants, modern food markets, and arcades for all ages.  This has replaced a once industrial neighborhood near the harbor. 

 

Hard to believe that 5 million people live here surrounded by 17^th century buildings from the Dutch and British.  In Kimberly's talk, she separated the different areas to see.  There is the immediate area, which we will see tomorrow and the following day, the Central Business District, the Bo-Kaap district, and the Cape of Good Hope.  All of these are too far to walk, so she suggested public transportation or taxis and Ubers. 

 

Ship excursions were numerous beginning with Chapman's Peak Scenic Drive for 3 hours and $80 or Stellenbosch Winery with wine tasting for 4 ½ hours at $110.  A trip up Table Mountain was 3 ½ hours for $130, or for the same price were the Ostrich Farm and Wine for 4 ¾ hours.  Another one at the same price was Streetwires and Old Biscuit Mill for 4 ½ hours.  Sundowners on Signal Hill was $150 for 2 ½ hours and High Tea at Mt. Nelson Hotel was $160 for 3 hours.  Cape Town Apartheid  and Robben Island was $190 for 8 ¾ hours, while the Winelands was $200 for 8 hours.  Penguins and Kalk Bay was $260 for 4 ¼ hours and Amazing Aquila (a day safari) was 9 hours for $370.  Last was a romantic dinner for two at a fancy restaurant was $589 for 5 ¼ hours which included two drinks.  Most of these tours would be offered the next two days too.

 

There was an invitation in our mail slot for an exclusive private kitchen tour on April 29^th at 10:30am.  Mini-health forms have to be filled out declaring we are disease-free.  When we sailed on the Volendam's Tales of the South Pacific last fall, the entire guest population was invited without any health forms.  Guess things have changed since then which is a good thing. 

 

This evening there was an activity called "Once Upon A Time", which sure sounded like fairy tales we heard when we were kids.   Well, it turned out to be close to that.  When making a trip to the Dive-In Grill we saw all of the lounges gone and "beds" replacing them.  Not really beds, but wicker lounges with blankets and large pillows.  Really?   There were three story-telling times with different themes.  They guaranteed mystical sounds, smokey sights, and bedroom settings in the Lido Pool area. And for a special touch, there would be freshly-baked cookies, popcorn, adult hot beverages, or something stronger.   Sleepwear was encouraged -  what are they thinking?  Well whatever works, we are sure some folks will love it.  The younger group of kids certainly will.   The event began at 7pm and ran until 10:30pm.    By the way, that was the entertainment tonight. 

 

We expected most of the diners around us at dinnertime would be off of the ship, but only two couples were missing.  Starting with salads and a starter of chicken skewers, one of us ordered the Club Orange short ribs and the other had the favorite Bolognese spaghetti.   It was so good and hot as could be.  One scoop of chocolate chip ice cream was just enough, as was one cup of coffee.

 

There were two "vintage" canvas tote bags with the HAL's 150^th Anniversary printed on them.   Perhaps no one will notice that this year is the 151^st.  Regardless, they are useful in many ways.

 

Tomorrow we shall go exploring.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

122 Pictures

Report #108 Tuesday April 16, 2024 Day At Sea Enroute To Cape Town, South Africa Sunny With Clouds 70 Degrees 87% Humidity 28mph Following Winds 6' Swell Rolling Motion

 

Today started differently than any other day on this cruise so far.  That's because we had full muster drill, something we have not had to do for several years now.  Captain Friso had forewarned us yesterday that a full-scale guest muster drill was being mandated by the powers to be in Seattle.  So at 10am, we had an announcement to assemble on deck three where the general emergency alarm was sounded.  We were directed to our muster stations where we had our room keys scanned.  No life jackets were required.  So the drill proceeded just like it used to with all of us standing at attention for about 15 minutes or more.  What was different was the fact the ship was moving and it was difficult to stand for very long.  This is a new safety requirement mandated for periodic implementation.   After Captain Friso read his instructions, the group dispersed.  We always used to wait until the thundering herd was gone, and that's what we did today.   It was a good time to chat with friends and discussing the last couple of ports and what we all did.  Anyway, now that we have done this drill, we sure hope we don't have to do it again.  From what we understand these drills have to occur once a month, and we do not have a month left.  Where has the time gone???

 

Kimberly delivered her talk on Cape Town, which we shall watch tomorrow morning.  We do not arrive to Cape Town until after noontime, and the nice thing is we will have a scenic sail into the port.  It has been years since we have been on the ship to sail this part of South Africa.  So it is a treat to be doing it, especially since this part of the cruise was not planned. 

 

The weather has been cooperating with fairly smooth seas, some swell, like 6 feet, and pretty clear skies.  Early in the morning and the early evening, it has been actually chilly.   Today's temperatures were in the 70's and we did enjoy some pool time around noon.  There were a few more sun lovers out there as well as folks eating lunch in the fresh air. 

 

We kept an eye for birds and flying fish during our walk, but only saw some gannets.  These birds behave differently here, since they do not seem to dive for the fish.  It is possible they catch their food like small squid and other small fish from the crests of the waves.  Instead of coming close to the decks of the ship, they stayed a good distance away from us.   Hoping for a sighting of dolphins, we were disappointed not to see any. 

 

This evening we got some shots of a speedy sunset before 6pm.  The clouds that we had while traveling in the area of the Equator have disappeared.  Tonight we had mostly clear skies, and nothing for the sunset to light up.  The sun simply went down rapidly and was gone.  A little after-color remained, but that was all. 

 

There was a "Braai", a South African grill-dinner in the Lido Restaurant from the usual time of 5:30 to 8pm.  They served sausages and skewers of cooked meats along with other African-themed goodies.  Our dinner was in the Pinnacle Grill for their regular dinner.  No pop-ups tonight.   We ordered our favorite wedge salads with extra dressings.  We always save some of the garlicky dressing for dipping French fries.  Both of us had two strips of clothesline bacon right on our plates.  Our mains were the same – grilled lamb chops on a plate without the sides of parsnip swipes and whatever.   We added one order of skinny fires and a bowl of sauteed mushrooms.  We said no to the chocolate candy, but did order one Almost Baked Alaska to share.  It was more than enough.    No room for a cup of coffee.  By the way, we got a report that most of the coffee machines are broken.  There are only a few places to get the specialty coffees until the machines are fixed.

 

There was a tribute to Tina Turner in the World Stage this evening.   It was a special performance by entertainer N'Dygo and the band.  She celebrated the music of the Queen of Rock and Roll.

 

A half day at sea will take us to Cape Town, a most wonderful city to visit.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

27 Pictures

Report #107 Monday April 15, 2024 Durban, South Africa Docked Port Side To Pier 7am-5pm Overcast With Showers And Some Sun 20mph Wind 79% Humidity 75 Degrees---Casual Dress PC Dinner

 

One of us woke up to a powerful lightning and thunder display around 2am last night.  Even with the drapes closed tight, the bright flash of the lightning lit up our room.  Of course, one of us had to crack the drapes open more and watch it , until it put me to sleep.   Since we seldom have that kind of storm where we live, it was rather exciting.   And it wasn't long afterwards, that the pilot came onboard from a helicopter drop around 4am.  We slept through that one.  By the time we woke up, we were already docked portside across from the Nelson Mandela Cruise Terminal. 

 

The warnings about walking out of this terminal area were numerous.  Kimberly mentioned the dangers of walking out of this port in her talk a few days ago, and it was announced several times today.  Looking at the surrounding buildings, we could not imagine it was that dangerous.  But we do recall some folks that had been attacked and robbed here several years ago.  We would follow the advice and stick to the shuttle transfer. 

 

We went to breakfast as usual until it was time to go through the passport inspection and stamping which began after 7am.  This was done in the terminal by deck numbers beginning with decks 8 and 10.  By 9am, our deck was called where we joined the Disneyland line of folks waiting to see the officials.  The line moved slowly, but picked up when Captain Friso showed up.  We got the distinct impression that there were some grumpy guests that were complaining.  We remember the feeling of anxiety when you have a taxi waiting for you to go to the airport for an overland safari.  And here you are, stuck in a long line.  Part of the hold-up was due to the fact that the crew members were being filtered into the line.  In order to get the guests cleared quicker, Captain Friso had the crew held back, letting the guests get to their tours. 

 

Once our passports were scanned and stamped, we went back onboard and waited to get off after 10am.  Another drill was in progress by then, and we were tired of hearing the horn blown and the loud announcements occurring every few minutes.   The shuttles were waiting outside the terminal exit, and we were on our way to uShaka Marine World, which turned out to be a 10 minute ride for 1.7 miles.  We assumed this was a water park, but we were pleasantly surprised to find it was also a semi-outdoor mall with unique shops and plenty of eateries.  

 

We had run into Jacques, who was also here and recommended a restaurant that was located in an old ship called the Cargo Hold.  What none of us knew was that all of the waterpark including the ship restaurant were closed on Monday.  But there were plenty of other options and dozens of shops and boutiques to check out.  We found that most of the venues took Visa or Mastercard, but not all took American Express.  And because the ship did not sell African rand, we had no cash to spend.  There were two or more ATM's in this complex, but had heard stories of guests losing their cards in them.  No way would we chance that.  One of the shop owners suggested we visit the tobacco shop where they were selling rand.  A long line was outside that store, so we passed on the idea.  There was nothing we really needed except lunch.

 

We did do window shopping and found the prices of  the local souvenirs were reasonable.  There were no high end stores, but many local shops selling African products and clothing.  We guess that half of the stores and restaurants did take American Express.  One exception where Am Ex was not taken was a nicer place that served pizza.  When we found the Cargo Hold closed, we ended up at John Dory's and found their food to be just fine.  Seated at a table by the window facing the beach, we ordered two local beers of Castle Light.  One of us had the hake and calamari plate and the other had a BBQ chicken breast  -  both of which came with chips (fries).  We added a shared dessert  of cheesecake, a layered chocolate cake, a custard and a bit of ice cream.  With a tip, the bill came to $28.00 or 531.00 rand.  Once again, reasonable like in Maputo.  Where else in the world can you get a pint of  draft beer for the equivalent of $2.60?

 

We had the view of the Golden Mile, a beachfront with several high end hotels.  We could see a wide paved walkway for the entire length of the beach, but once you left the uShaka property, you were game for all of the vendors that chase you with things to buy.   We did notice when some of these vendors came too close to the exit of uShaka, cops were there to send them on their way.   It would have been a good walk, but decided against it.  The wind was blowing and we would have been blasted with sand.

 

Going back the way we came, we checked out more shops and did stop at the info center to pick up local maps and brochures with all sorts of helpful information.  The shuttle bus came on the ½ hour, and arrived shortly after we got there.  Many crew members had come here too, so they filled ½ of the bus.  On the way back, we did see some buildings that were in shambles, and also spotted some homeless-like guys hiding behind the walls.   This is where guests could be blind-sided and get attacked.  Oddly enough, there were no local people out and about on any street near the terminal.     We got  back to the ship in 7 minutes and in our room by 2pm. 

 

So what did a lot of people do today?  The ship's tours all went out of town except for three of them – the scenes of Durban for 3 ½ hours for $100 , or Arts and Spice for 3 hours and $80.  A panoramic drive around Durban was 3 ½ hours for $70.  Two tours for $140 were the Nelson Mandela  capture site and Howick Falls for 5 hours.   The Valley of 1000 Hills was 4 hours for $140 and Monkeyland  Sanctuary was $130 for 5 hours.  A popular day safari (one of which we have done) was to Tala Game Reserve for 5 hours and $220.  Four overlands went from Durban  one of which was to Kapama Karula for 3 nights four days for $5400.  Another chance to see Victoria Falls, Botswana and Chobe for 4 nights and 5 days was $6800.  Leopard Mountain Lodge for 3 nights and 4 days was $3200, and Phinda Lodge for 3 nights and four days was $4500.  All of these prices were per person.   Ouch!  And all of these overlands were sold out on day one.

 

Here's a tidbit of info on South Africa.  The population is 54 million and there are three capitals:  Pretoria, Cape Town and Bloemfontein.   There are numerous official languages which include Zulu, Xhosa, Afrikaans, English, Swati, Tsonga, South Sotho, North Sotho,  Tswana, Venda, and Ndebele.  And probably there are more.     This is a country of astounding diversities with two oceans, black-maned lions, desert dunes, powdery beaches, star-studded skies and lush mountains.  It is a wonderful place to visit. 

 

If you wish to see the Big 5 (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and Cape buffalo) then South Africa is for you.  The best safari destination that we would highly recommend has to be any one of the cool safari camps in and around Kruger National Park.   It is 217 miles long and over 37 miles wide with 19,485 square kilometers – a staggering size.  The winelands have become like a religion here due to the perfect growing conditions.  World class vines are produced in this region.  The holy trinity of wineries is Stellenbosch, Francschoek, and Paarl. 

 

To understand this country is to learn the history of apartheid and civil war and Nelson Mandela.  Currently we have speakers onboard that have covered these subjects in depth.  If nothing else, if the mistakes of the past are remembered, then perhaps they will not be repeated.  Famous words that apply from the past and into the future we hope.

 

All aboard was 4:30pm, but as always, some folks were late coming back from tours, and we did not leave until closer to 5pm.  Captain Friso sounded concerned about the winds, which were blowing from 25 to 30 knots or more.  The swells were expected at 6 feet with waves being the same.  We could tell the wind was having an effect on the ship as it was pulled away from the pier.  Once the bow was lined up with the exit, it was the pedal to the metal. 

 

Now the exciting thing was we had a pilot who was taken off of the Seaview Pool deck, and the most exciting fact was our local pilot was a woman.  We watched as the copter circled the ship several times before dropping the rope with the sling to pull her up.  At the party, Bob showed us video he took as the lift was happening.  What a job to have…..we all gave her credit for being brave doing a job like that.  Of course we were all thinking how glad we were not to have that type of career.  Once we cleared the opening, we were off heading towards to Cape Town 840 nautical miles away.  We did have a few brief passing showers, but nothing bad.

 

We had an invite to a President's Club Vintage Dinner at the Pinnacle Grill with the officers and staff.  Cocktails started off the occasion in the Pinnacle Bar at 5:30pm.   Usually these affairs begin at 6:30pm, but for some reason, it was earlier.  It worked out perfectly because we did not miss the sail away, which we have not done for many years.  We always fly from Durban for a safari.  Captain Friso was a no-show for cocktails and dinner, but he did send the Staff Captain, Babek, to join the group.  He had joined the two of us and Martha and Bob at a stand-up table for cocktails, then he was seated with us and five others at the table for 8 in the Pinnacle Grill.  He is a very nice young fellow, still in his forties, like Captain Friso.  We did enjoy his company and we hope he liked the seven of us "old-timers".   Captain Friso was supposed to host us, but he was obviously driving the ship and never appeared. 

 

The menu was agreeable to most everyone, especially the allergy-prone one of us.   We had a choice of a shrimp cocktail or a chef's salad.  We chose the salad with our own favorite dressings and it was quite good for a change.  French onion soup followed, then there was a choice of mains with Dover sole or filet steak Diane.  We both chose the steak, as did our tablemates Colette and Serge from Montreal.  From seeing the bones some folks encountered with the sole, we knew we made the better choice.  Dessert was a choice of crepes suzette or the long-gone volcano cake.  Most all of us ordered the volcano.  Fine wines were served  throughout the meal, although we did not drink as always.  The gathering ended about 8:30pm, although some of the folks stayed until 10pm chatting the night away, even after their hosts had departed. 

 

The singing group from Africa, Shades of Africa" put on a show with traditional music in the World Stage, but we were so beat from the long day in town, we turned in early.  Tomorrow will be a day at sea before arriving to Cape Town at 1pm the following day.   Looking forward to the 2 ½ day visit there.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

194 Pictures