Today's port of call was Nuku'alofa, on the island of Tongatapu, Tonga.  The kingdom of Tonga has a total of 171 islets, but only 45 of them are inhabited.  Tongatapu is one of the largest islands and happens to be the nation's capital.   It is about the only (if not the only) remaining monarchy or "kingdom" left in the South Pacific.   We are glad we have been here numerous times, because today turned out to be a different one as we will explain.     
                  
            The Zaandam arrived to the Vuna Wharf, originally built in 1906 where most of the visitors arrived by ships.  A railway ran here transporting copra and other crops to be shipped elsewhere as well as playing a part for transporting tools and equipment during WWI.  This wharf was recently upgraded by the Chinese government to accommodate larger cruise ships and super yachts.      
                  
            The ship was cleared while we ate breakfast, and the tour groups were off and running.  The temperature was predicted to be 79 degrees with broken clouds and 94% humidity.  The winds were 4.6 mph, and there was a chance of light showers, which never did happen.  If it rains here, it has never been light.     
                  
            We left the ship by 10am during another crew drill and by then the welcome group of singers and dancers had left.  One of the first things we noticed was that the souvenir tents had been set up in the bus parking lot, opposite of where they have been for the last couple of years.  Also, the small tourist info shack seemed to be closed.    There was a local lady standing outside the door and we asked her about the rumor we heard of a holiday here.   Yes, it was a holiday celebrating the 150 years of Constitution Day, and many venues would be closed all day.   Well, not having the time to listen to the port talk before today, we missed that notice.  We were able to get one very good and informative map inside the kiosk where, oddly enough, three Tongan men complimented my blouse.  They liked the colors of the orange/black/and white design, thinking I may have bought it here.  Well, no, actually I bought the fabric in Tahiti, and they smiled saying close-enough. They probably say that to everyone to be fair.      
                  
            There were a total of six excursions today starting with historic Nuku'alofa for 2 ½ hours and $60.  We did this on our own for zero dollars.  A swim at Tongatapu (somewhere on the island) was 3½ hours for  $70, while Captain Cook Landing & culture was 3 hours for $75.  Liku'alofa scenic island drive was 3 ½ hours for $80 or Island encounter & ancient Tonga was 3 ½ hours for $85.  Last was Oh-olei Beach & Hina Cave for 4 ½ hours for $100 with lunch of a suckling pig cooked in the ground.      
                  
            So our self-guided tour found us on the way to the Maketi Talamahu or the marketplace.   This is a huge produce market on the first level as well as Tongan handicraft items, tapa cloth, weavings, mats, carvings, and some costume jewelry.  The second floor has a huge variety of Tongan t-shirts, beach towels, sarongs, and shoes.   And guess what we found?  It was locked up tight, no one there, not even locals that normally fill the place.   That was a big disappointment.   We continued up a side street that led us past housing and shops to the street where the Catholic Basilica is located.      
                  
            The Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua was the very first basilica in the South Pacific islands completed in 1980 with volunteer labor.  The altar, baptistry, pews and tables were made from coconut wood and inlaid with mother-of-pearl including the Stations of the Cross.  Only one of us made it up the flight of stairs to the church's entrance, although both of us have seen this church several times on past trips.  Still feeling the effects of the sudden cold symptoms kept one of us needing more stops to rest and cool off.   The photos taken will suffice.     
                  
            Directly across the road was the "unveiled" Royal Tombs…unveiled because for the last two years this whole complex has been covered up for construction purposes.  King George Tupou I was the first king to be buried here in 1893, followed by several of his descendants.  This recent project was funded by the Chinese government with the outside corners turned into sitting areas and parking lots.  Some of the outside paving and tree-planting was done by the Japanese with plaques taking credit for the work.      
                  
            Directly across the street is the oldest church here, or what remains of it.  The name is Centennial Church built of coral blocks in 1888, and it was a magnificent example of early Tongan church architecture.    But time, hurricanes, and tsunamis have taken a toll on the condition, reducing this church to mostly rubble.  All that remains now is a shell with a few spires and no interior.   There was a time we entered this church with stained glass windows and was a truly an impressive official state church.  Obviously, there is not enough money available to renovate it.  Maybe someday, another government will offer funds to bring this icon back to life.   We highly suspect it may be China.     
                  
            Surrounding the Royal Tombs are several schools such as Queen Salote College, Tonga High School, and Queen Salote Memorial Hall, the national auditorium.  This hall can hold over 2000 people, one of the largest in the South Pacific.   This was funded by the Taiwanese government in 1995 and happened to be the venue of the Miss South Pacific competition in 1995.  And guess who won?  Yep, Miss Tonga won the title of Miss South Pacific for the first time ever.   What a surprise…..     
                  
            Walking back towards the ocean, we passed by the walled fence of Mala'e Mamaloa, or a huge field used for church occasions and annual feasts, where hundreds of roasted pigs are cooked and served.  Many of the street trees have been removed and new trees have been planted.  They were still in the process of planting even more.    Right next to this field is the Centenary Church or Royal Church originally named the Free Wesleyan Church of Tonga built in 1952.  This church seats 2000 people.  However, we were surprised to see that it is undergoing major reconstruction and is closed to all functions.      
                  
            Across the road is His Majesty's Army Forces.  There are about 700 soldiers in three different camps on the island.   The guards here protect the Royal Palace right next to it.  This used to be the official residence of the King and his family, buy these days the stately building is used for official functions as well as housing the Royal Archives and artworks.  The King and his family have at least two more residences on the island, one of which we believe is near a golf course.    From where we were seeing the palace from Hala Vuna, we could take many pictures….along with the bus loads of tourists doing the very same thing.       
                  
            Running into friends who had just left the photo op, we compared notes about what we had already seen and the changes that have taken place since a year ago.  They also have followed the progress of foreign countries coming into these specific South Pacific Islands and setting up possible sites to benefit them, not the Tongans.  When you see signs that mention reciprocity, you know there are strings attached maybe not right away but sometime in the future.     
                  
            Usually from this point, we walk the length of the shoreline road, but since one of us still was not up to it, we sat on a nice bench and took in the breeze instead.  At least for five minutes.  There is a small but cozy cottage along this stretch where we have enjoyed nice lunches before.  However, it seems that we have arrived on a day they were closed again.  Friends Gerard and Jan had already checked it out, and said the gate was closed, as was the restaurant.      
                  
            One other thing worth mentioning is that the trees that held the fruit bats had been cut down.  Even the huge mango trees that fed them were gone.  That is one way to get rid of them and hope they go to another part of the island.  There is a colony of these critters at Kolovai Village and one of the tours goes there.      
                  
            Back-tracking, we headed down a side street passing the Nuku'alofa Club where the elite Tongan men go to socialize and play games of snooker.   Next to it is a girls tourist school of sorts.      
                  
            At Raintree Square, there is a gigantic shade tree said to be there since WWII.  This is a place where locals gather and sit on benches in the shade.  Nearby is the new post office, and across the road is the Public Service Commission, one of the oldest buildings in town.    Up this street a piece is Friends CafĂ© , a modern coffee shop with a Handicraft Center next door.      
                  
            Passing the Pangai Lahi, or the huge green field next to the palace, we realized it was royal land used for special events, feasts, parades, and kava ceremonies.   It is fenced and no one is allowed on it.     
                  
            At this point we had gone full circle and continued to walk up the road past the local bus station and a row of fast food-like eateries.   We seemed to recall seeing a few hotels up this way, one of which was the Tanoa Hotel.  We were correct and located it right next to the Emerald Hotel.  Except it sure looked closed to us.  Then we spotted a sign by the front door saying the facilities in this hotel were reserved for registered guests only.   Oh no……this would be our only choice for a place for lunch.  We went inside anyway and spotted a lady on a computer.  She said yes, they were opened and follow the lobby to the back of the property.  We discovered a nice swimming pool and a restaurant with tables surrounding the pool.  Perfect.  A waitress greeted us and said to sit wherever we wished.  That would be under an overhang with fans.  We ordered local beers, Tiki, although they were not draft, the ice-cold bottles were most welcomed.   We shared a burger that came with bacon (actually back bacon) and a fried egg, which we asked for no egg.  It came on it anyway, which was OK.  A pile of fries on the side was just right.  It took two more beers to cool us off, then we added one order of cinnamon churros with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream.  You cannot go wrong with anything cinnamon.      
                  
            We headed back to the ship slowly after checking out the souvenir tents in the bus parking lot.  There really wasn't anything of interest, and the vendors were not in the bargaining mode yet.  The closer it got to all aboard time at 5:30pm, perhaps they would be willing to deal.  At 3pm, it was far too early.  Back in our room, we cooled off until sailaway, where we watched from our veranda.  The Captain turned the ship around and we saw what remained of a farewell group of local Tongans singing and waving goodbye.  As we headed through the lagoon, we saw a very nice Tongan sunset.     
                  
            At dinnertime, we had to apologize to waiter Regie for forgetting to tell him we had Pinnacle Grill reservations last night.    Actually one of his buddies Arjay (Joseph) works in the Pinnacle and he could have called him to see if we were there.   So tonight we ordered one bowl of hot lentil soup and a Caesar salad.  Mains were one chicken dinner and a short rib plate with savory mashed potatoes.  All good "comfort" food, we ended the meal with one scoop each of rocky road and coffee fudge ice cream.      
                  
            On the way back to our room, one of us needed to make a stop in the Liquor Shop for one simple item.  It just so happened that without a bar code, this product could not be priced.   Two of the salespersons hauled out paperwork and a computer to run numbers while I waited and waited.  Finally, I said is there a comparable item, and the gal said yes…and it had a bar code.  Duh…   Funny this group has had a month to price things, and it still is incomplete.  Go figure…..      
                  
            The entertainer of the evening was Bruce Mathiske, a guitar player and also a didgeridoo musician.  What a combo.  Obviously from Australia, he was sure to be a hit with the crowd.     
                  
            Tomorrow we will have a very different Tongan port called Neiafu, Vava'u.      
                  
            Bill & Mary Ann