Our port of call for today, and our final port of this grand world voyage, is San Juan, Puerto Rico. The population is 3.5 million folks that speak mostly Spanish and some English. It is an island of "swashbuckling" history - a great way to describe Puerto Rico. It is often called the sun-washed backyard of the United States. This island is covered with tropical forests, nice beaches, and a thriving night life that includes casinos and good times.
In Old San Juan, it is easy to find the cobblestone streets lined with pastel colonial buildings and old fortresses such as El Morro. Many visitors go to this gate of the Caribbean for the cluster of bars and clubs to enjoy the wild night life.
Food and drink of the Puerto Ricans have four essential elements of rice, beans, plantains, and pork. The pork can be grilled, fried, stewed, and skewered. On the top of their list is their suckling pig that is spit-roasted for as long as 8 hours. A fitting feast for the parry-hardy. The pina colada is said to have been created here, and they are on every menu in town.
And one of the best reasons we stop here, is that the guests and crew on the Zuiderdam will be cleared through US customs and immigrations here. That will save us the trouble of doing this clearance in Ft. Lauderdale. And if things go smoothly, we will still have until 7:30pm to enjoy the visit here.
There were a few ship tours here today. The history and cuisine of San Juan on foot with lunch was 3 ½ hours for $60. San Juan old and new was 2 ½ hours for $80. El Yunque's Rain Forest drive was 4 ¼ hours for $90, while Puerto Rico's favorites was 4 ¾ hours, also $90.
We were able to access Kimberly's port talk on Puerto Rico…..better late than never we say. She said we have traveled 3330 nautical miles since leaving Tangier, Morocco and we have had 5 time changes. The area we will visit in San Juan, a city of 556,000 residents, is a mere 3 square miles and the country uses the US dollar as their currency. That's because they are part of the US, but also independent. Three days ago, there was a 77% chance of thunderstorms here today. Lucky for us, it never happened. The temperature was in the 80 degree area, but it was also very humid. She said that there would be five ships in port, but we only saw four, and that included us. Shuttles will be provided since we are going to dock at a different pier – the Pan American Pier, which is located at least three miles from the regular piers. There is no more trolley and there is no Ho-Ho operating here anymore. The other vessels were the Liberty of the Seas, Enchanted Princess, and the Carnival Sunshine. That is a whole lot of people and if you add the crew that were able to get some time off, it increased the number.
Both of us woke up very early, like at 4am. Geez, we don't know why that early, except for the several time changes this last week. The weather looked promising on the way to Puerto Rico early this morning, but the clouds increased, wiping out the blue skies. Although the bow was opened around 10am with scenic narration, the best place for us to film the scenery was right from our veranda.
Looking behind us, we could see the Carnival Sunshine was right behind us. They would take the pier where we usually dock. The other two ships were already there…..the RCI Liberty of the Seas and the Enchanted Princess took the other two spots. We would dock at the Pan American Pier, which was opposite of the regular piers. We would also have shuttles to take us to Plaza Colon, which was a good three-mile drive one way.
But first…..we had to attend a mandatory Immigration Inspection, which was conveniently conducted on the ship. Shortly after we were docked, Kimberly began calling the numbers of groups after noontime. We had Group # 1, so went first to the upper dining room. Our room keys were scanned, and we turned over our designated card # 1. Then the line came to an abrupt stop. Nothing was happening, except frantic running around with the ship's officers and the custom officials. Something was wrong, and we sure hoped their systems had not shut down. What a fiasco that might be.
After about 10 minutes, we saw the agents start taking the guests one or two at a time, and we finally got through rather quickly. By the way, there was no custom forms to fill out, at least not for the US citizens. On the way out, we had stickers put on our room keys. Daphne, our guest relations manager, happened to be there, and mentioned that she was having heart palpitations after the computer system was not working at first. So there was a possible glitch, but it was resolved, thank goodness.
We went back to the room, stashed the passports in the safe, and headed off to board the first shuttle to town. It was 12:30pm, and passing through the spacious, but basically empty terminal building, we realized we had been docked here sometime in the past. Truthfully, this was working better for all of us, because we were away from the activity of the three other large ships. And the shuttle buses were nice….made for people with long legs. And there were several of them.
The drop-off point was in a convenient spot like we stated, and we headed uphill to walk past the Castillo de San Cristobal, the massive Spanish fortress with tunnels and sentry boxes that worked for centuries of invasions. This fortress as well as El Morro are part of the US National Park system. If you purchase a reasonable-priced ticket, it would be good for both sights. In addition, if you are a US senior citizen and pay for a basic national park membership for life, you can enter these sights for free we understand.
Continuing up the malecon, we walked past the La Perla district down below the cliffs, followed by the Santa Maria Cemetery located above the Atlantic oceanside.
We have to mention that it was a very overcast day, but the humidity and temperature was high. Honestly, with the huge ships in port today, we expected bigger crowds. Walking this part of the Old Town, we could say that today was the smallest crowd we have ever seen here. One reason could stem to the fact that many public places such as museums and theaters are closed on Tuesdays. And the other factor are tours, both ship excursions and independent tours took people out of town. Whatever the reason, we had a most pleasant hike up Del Morro Road to El Morro, the six level coastal fortress with cannons, dungeons, and beautiful Atlantic views. This structure took over 250 years to be built, and it successfully defended the San Juan Bay for more than 400 years.
Last year we were here at the same time but encountered the worst bug infestation we have ever seen. They must have been like no-seeums, but they did not bite. Similar to what we experienced in Walvis Bay's Lagoon walk, these tiny flies were everywhere. Today, there were none. Go figure? One savior to the day's hike was the strong breeze that blew over the grassy areas surrounding the fort. It sure is a great place to fly kites, which the locals do often. There was a sign posted saying that kite-flying commemorates the battles that had taken place over these fields in the past centuries. Not such a pretty sight back in the old days.
From here, we went straight up the hill passing the School of Fine Arts and the theater. Resting briefly in Plaza de Ballaja, we figured it was time to search for the perfect pizza restaurant that served beer…preferably draft beers. Walking the old and narrow cobblestone streets, we looked for the dozens of cats that are usually here. We did see about ½ dozen, but many of them were missing. Someone feeds these feral cats, as well as the ones that are on the lower trail surrounding this point. These days, we suspect the younger cats are "fixed" to keep the population down. And they do serve a purpose in controlling the rodents.
We knew that if we located the San Juan Bautista Cathedral, we might find a possible restaurant nearby that may serve pizza. This very old Gothic colonial cathedral is the final resting place for Ponce de Leon. After passing the Plaza with the same name across the narrow street, we found that pizza restaurant was not their biggest item and decided to continue on. They had few customers.
Now we were in the maze of the Old Town shops and cafes, where all of the cruise guests were congregating. We happened to come across the main plaza where an Info kiosk was. Perfect…they had island and city maps. The nice fellow recommended a great pizza cafĂ© right down the street. We never would have noticed this place because the menu they posted was small, and the entrance was a narrow door with no sign on it. That's when we remembered the name of La Rustica that was here before, but we assumed was closed. Basically, the main restaurant had closed for renovations two years ago, and now this cafĂ© was up a flight of stairs. What we won't do for an excellent pizza…..
We were welcomed inside by two folks that worked there, and took seats on the second level. It was really a quaint cafĂ© with mostly all locals dining there – a good sign. We ordered a local draft beer the waitress recommended and then zeroed in on the large margherita pizza with onions, mushrooms, and some pepperoni on half of it. We were happy campers when it arrived, seeing instantly that the crust was perfect and the toppings were correct. It was big, no doubt, but we managed to eat every bite. No room for dessert, we carefully went down the stairs and headed back to the shuttle stop.
The bus was waiting with a few folks onboard, and we were off and running by 4pm. Back to the ship by 4:30pm, we were glad to relax until dinner time. There was a nice sunset that we did not expect, and we had the best place to film it……from our veranda, of course. Speaking of the verandas, we had a note this morning saying they would be cleaned between 2 and 5pm. This means washing and scrubbing and hosed with lots of water. This appeared to have just been completed when we got back to our room. That was good. However, one of us went out with writing materials to compose the report for the day, and suddenly water was coming down from deck seven above me. Good grief…..why would they do things backwards like that? Now our deck was wet again and one of us was getting a bath. It stopped by 5pm, and we hope that will be the last big cleaning.
Needless to say, we were not that hungry for dinner, but we went anyway. Salads were good, and our mains were Indonesian-spiced lamb chops, which looked like sliced and grilled rack of lamb. Tender and tasty, and just the right size for tonight. The other entrée was fish and chips with French fries, which was very good as our waiter served it fresh and hot. Served with malt vinegar and tartar sauce, there were no bones, always a concern for the picky one of us. Dessert was one scoop of pecan ice cream and strawberry sorbet.
No show for us….we were done for the day. The entertainer was an instrumentalist by the name of Sebastian Fucci with music from the entire world.
Two days at sea, and we will be back to Ft. Lauderdale.
Bill & Mary Ann