"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report # 27 Avatiu, Rarotonga, Cook Islands January 26, 2016 Tuesday Partly cloudy & 82 degrees Part #1 78 Pictures TG-4

Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 7:59:21 PM
Subject: Report # 27 Avatiu, Rarotonga, Cook Islands January 26, 2016 Tuesday Partly cloudy & 82 degrees Part #1 78 Pictures TG-4

Report # 27 Avatiu, Rarotonga, Cook Islands January 26, 2016 Tuesday Partly cloudy & 82 degrees

The Cook Islands are situated almost dead center of the Pacific Ocean. This country consists of 15 islands that are spread over an area the size of India, making it difficult for the locals to visit their neighbors. Named after Captain Cook (naturally), these faraway islands have been a refuge for the hermit personalities and the Robinson Crusoes.

There is a different feel about Rarotonga, compared to the French Polynesian islands we just left behind. Maybe because it is British with a mix of Maori from New Zealand and Brits from England. The capital is Avarua on the island of Rarotonga, our destination today.

The population of all of the islanders is 19,569, and has an area of 240 square miles. Maori and English are the main languages.

Things to do and see begins and ends with the sapphire blue lagoon that surrounds the entire island. Many tours involved snorkeling and swimming, or a boat ride to see the reefs. There are libraries, churches, cemeteries, museums mixed with boutiques and restaurants.

The township of Avarua is full of old colonial churches, more graveyards, and plantations. If you want to see the rain forests, you can tour in a 4 x 4 vehicle to the valleys and volcanic heights in the center of the island. You are promised to have a bumpy ride and experience vertigo.

Muri Lagoon is the main resort area complete with lots of sandy white beach and motus. Our one experience with snorkeling was here in this lagoon, probably eight years ago. It wasn't the best, because at the time, we had arrived right after a storm had gone through. The water was murky and turbulent, making fish-finding impossible. So we were not too impress. However, visits after that proved to be much better.

What's to eat here? More raw fish in coconut milk or stuffed breadfruit. A few years ago, we came across a local fellow in Nuku Hiva cooking a very large breadfruit. He had taken it whole and put in directly on hot charcoals. He turned it until the outside was totally blackened. Then he carefully cut it in half, and took out the inside. It resembled a watery mashed potato. He put it in a huge wooden bowl, then mashed it with seasonings. It really looked good when he was finished. Recently, we learned that the breadfruit plants that Captain Bligh was taking back on the ship, the Bounty, to the Caribbean, were meant to grow for food for the slaves in the plantations. They did not like it, but it has stayed a staple in this part of the world.

Their favorite drink: tumunu, a lethal orange homebrew bush beer. And their favorite slogan: Kia Orana, meaning may you live long, or at least long enough to come back and spend more money.

Now, after all of that info, it looked like we were not going to make it there today. We woke up to see the island outside our window around 6 or 7am. The swells were still with us, and although four tender boats were in the water, they were going nowhere at the moment. It was obvious that the Captain was trying to decide whether to tender to Avatiu, or try the alternate wharf at Arorangi, seldom used by tender boats the size of ours.

So we decided to skip breakfast, and go down the secret elevator with Christel at 8am. Down on deck A aft, about eight of us waited while crew worked quickly to set up the exit to the boats. While we waited, Henk went into the meat room, and brought out one of the new Pinnacle Grill mega steaks, the tomahawk, just so we could see how massive it was. We got the perfect photo of him pretending to bite into the plastic-covered beef steak.

Something was broken, so we were led across deck A to the forward exit, where the crew had to move everything once again. Guess what, the forward exit was not working either. So off we went to the aft once again. It was then that the Captain announced we were moving to the alternate wharf, even though the opening between the reef was extremely narrow. They were willing to give it a try. If only they knew……

So, we had enough time to make it to the dining room for a quick breakfast before they closed at 9am. Our meal was simple with sweet rolls, yogurt and some fruit. This allowed us to go back down to deck A by 10am, and finally get on the first boat over to shore. We were lucky to make it through the narrow opening, easily climb out of the boat, and make our way to the main road. All of the tour vehicles were waiting for the folks, as well as shuttles that cost $10 to take a ride back to Avarua, the main town about 5 miles away.

We have always walked through that town, so this time we took a chance and walked the opposite way instead. Unfortunately, there were no maps at this tender drop off, only a couple of souvenir stands. This island has two buses…..one counterclockwise, and one clockwise. It goes around the island in one hour, and costs $8. You are allowed to get off once, and get back on for that amount. If you want a ride part of the way, then the price is $5. We needed the exercise, but a few of the bus drivers did stop their bus, and ask if we needed a lift. We noticed that no one walks here. There are numerous cars, and even more scooters. And they are all on the wrong side of the road. Well, really the right side for them, but opposite of what we are used to. Of course, it is British-influenced.

Most of the property on the lagoon side was private with many homes facing the pristine beach. Occasionally, there was a break, and we were able to access the beach. The color of the water was aqua blue to green in the lagoon part, and dark blue on the other side of the reef. Just stunning, and almost empty of swimmers or sunbathers.

We must have walked about 4 kilometers, or close to 2.5 miles when we came across a beautiful complex by the name of Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa. Asking a worker out front, she said please come in and enjoy a lunch on the beachside. Got pizza, we asked? Yep, and beer too. Sold, we found the entrance and the lobby that led to a stairway down to the swimming pool and restaurant. This was perfect, and it was not crowded. Not one passenger from the ship either.

So we found a poolside table, and ordered a margherita pizza to share, of course. Tui was the name of the ice cold beers. Dessert was a banana fritter with creamy vanilla ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce. We stayed for over an hour, then walked the beach taking photos of the fish feeding that was attracting some big fish where a few children were snorkeling. Could have stayed here much longer if we had the time.

Time to start back, although the all aboard time had been moved to 6:30pm, two hours longer than planned. As we got close to the wharf, a couple we see every morning at breakfast stopped and relayed the most bizarre story we have heard in a long while. Apparently, one of the tender boats full of guests had been pushed by a wave, and got hung up on the reef. Exactly what the Captain had been worried about. They said that an attempt was made to pull them off with ropes from another tender boat. But it was not working, and the ropes broke more than once. Now they were tilted to one side. The crew requested all of them to put on the lifejackets, which they did without panicking. By now, several crew members had come out to the stranded boat, including the Captain and some officers.

The passengers were given three options after waiting two hours to get out of the boat. Some were taken off in a zodiac boat, many of them opted to stay on the boat and get towed back by a local boat, or those who could walk to shore, could jump in the water, leaving most of their stuff behind. That's what our buddies had done, because they had their swimsuits and aqua shoes on already. They told us that the Captain and the officers got in the water to assist the folks out of the boat. It was three hours before the boat was pulled off of the rocks, and towed back to the ship with most of the folks onboard.

Of course, all of the tendering service was suspended from 1pm to about 4pm. So lots of people never got ashore, and the rest of the tours were cancelled. They were promised a total refund.

The line was long at the wharf, so we hung back and got on the second boat back. The staff had brought a load of bottled water for all to take for free. Everyone was really good about not complaining for a change. None of us had ever seen this happen before. We were back safely in our room by 4:30pm, with just enough time to work on photos before dinner. There would be no sail away party, since we would be leaving the island right before sunset.

Just as well, because we had been invited to a dinner with our hosts and eight other guests from our travel agency in the Pinnacle Grill. We met at 7pm, and sat in the back room. The menu was set with choices of halibut or filet mignon for our entrees. We chose the beef and it was cooked to perfection. Dessert, which we normally do not indulge, was the chocolate volcano. Had to be polite and eat it, right? We finished by 9:30pm, in time for most folks to attend the show, a Motown singer by the name of Bobbie Brooks Wilson. He was on last year's cruise, and was well received.

During the meal, one of the guests seated at the upper end of the long table kept holding up his bandaged finger. He had been on that tender boat, but got injured by coral when he tried to assist another passenger. Ripped his finger, and had to have several stitches once back onboard.

Some of us wanted to check out tender boat # 9 to see what kind of damage it got. It had expected scrapes and also some holes in the bottom, although we could not see everything since the area was cordoned off. Upon closer examination, we saw damage to the props and the rudder. Friends Bill and Leta, who were also at the special dinner, met us inside the atrium, where we continued our discussion well past 10:45pm. Barb happened to be on her way to the Crows Nest, and stopped to chat. Her big news of the day was that she was on the stranded boat. Boy, what a story she had, saying it was an unexpected 3 hour tour for free. Since she had worn her good leather sandals (not meant to get wet), she opted to stay onboard and wait to get towed back to the ship. That added an extra hour to her saga. As a token of apology, she and the other 90 stranded guests received a plate of fancy chocolate candies in their staterooms. Well, at least the Captain announced that tomorrow evening, everyone will get complimentary wine with dinner. That always makes the folks happy.

So much for today, a very eventful one we never saw coming. We now have four days at sea to arrive to New Zealand. Wonder what other stories we will hear by then?

Bill & Mary Ann

Sunrise over Rarotonga