Report # 85 Galle, Sri Lanka March 25, 2016 Friday Hot and clammy (new word) 81 Pictures Part #1 of 2

Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 12:45:45 AM

Subject: Report # 85   Galle, Sri Lanka   March 25, 2016   Friday   Hot and clammy (new word)    81 Pictures  Part #1 of 2

We had a wonderfully comfortable evening in the Amagalla Hotel last night.  It didn't occur to us until bedtime, that we had no TV.  Certainly a hotel of this caliber would include television in their suites.  We were sure it was hidden somewhere in the armoire, or behind a cabinet door.  Nope, looked everywhere, no TV.  So we checked our hotel description in our printed itinerary , and found that with the listing of a TV, it said with request.  Oh, we must have missed that little detail.  Still, that was odd to us.  In all truthfulness, a TV would have put us to sleep even faster.  But we would inquire about it.

One of us got up at 5am, to resume some computer work.  Some folks have the ability of waking up, fully ready to begin the day no matter what ungodly hour of the morning.  That's not me (Mary Ann).  Bleary-eyed for ½ hour, minimum, completely waking up takes longer than that, since rolling over in bed is always a better option.  It's called "beauty-sleep" for a reason, right? 

Anyway, breakfast in the hotel dining room was complimentary, and served a la carte off of the regular menu.  They opened at 7am.  The restaurant is located in what they call the Great Hall or Zaal in Dutch.  Again, it was like stepping back into colonial times.  The ambience has been preserved with the original hotel being kept up over the century, changing little.  To sum it up in a nutshell, the hotel is described as The New Oriental Hotel (NOH) that overlooks the inner harbor atop the eastern ramparts of the ancient Galle Fort.  It is the oldest surviving hotel here, a traveler's haven that exudes the sense of a romantic past.  For those who have an inner sense of history and place, the Amagalla, as it is called today, possesses a more mysterious inner character.  Have you ever heard in your head, "If only these walls could talk?"  Well, this whole fort and hotel yells this out with every turn of the corner.  A printed flyer was given to us at the hotel, which we intend to read thoroughly when we get time.

OK, breakfast was delicious and ample.  We ordered fresh-squeezed orange juice and cappuccino coffees.  Greek yogurt (probably buffalo curd-based) was served with a bowl of diced fruit.  Bananas, strawberries, pineapple, pomegranate, and papaya topped the bowl of yogurt.  We ordered the "Amagalla" breakfast inclusive of any style of eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, mushrooms, and two types of toast.  A basket of assorted pastries included a walnut bread, chocolate croissants, and plain croissants.  Wow.  We ate until we could not eat anymore, since every bite was delicious.  Besides that, lunch was going to be on our own, and we had no clue where we would end up.

Since it was Saturday morning, the roads were already crowded.  We passed by produce and fish stands, as well as hawker stalls and clothing booths.  Following the coastline, we came upon a fish market on the road.  We saw some pretty large tuna, jack mackerel sailfish, prawns, and crabs.  Nearby, is a large factory where locals bring their catch for canning. 

The traffic was heavy, since it was Good Friday.  Many religions are tolerated here, but Catholic seems to be one of the biggest  here, with Buddhish being first.  We noticed that many men were wearing the white robes with turbans, while the ladies wore the traditional saris, carrying umbrellas.  Some fellows wore a skirt, while the young school boys had on modern-day t-shirts and shorts with flip-flops.  All the girls wore white uniforms.

We passed beaches with old boats and nets, already back from fishing.  Following a river, we passed by beachfront villas, inns, hostels, and resorts.  Obviously there are famous tourist spots with fabulous beaches here.

At one point, we turned left and headed inland to Handunugoda and the cinnamon and tea plantations.  Rice fields were being harvested, with large pieces of machinery processing the rice from the grasses.  This was being done along the roadside on very narrow streets.  Following a rocky dirt road, we arrived at the cinnamon plantation around 10:30am.  It is located on the property of the Villa Mayurana, a hidden gem of a luxury resort.  Small in size, this villa was located behind a locked gate.  Lucky stopped outside the gate, and honked his horn.  A security guard appeared to let us inside.

Once at the top of the hill, the resort appeared, and so did the spectacular views.  It is typical in this part of the world to be greeted with ice cold scented towels to wash our hands as soon as we got out of the car.  Very civilized.  From here, we were introduced to the plantation manager, who led the three of us down a flight of steps to a roofed patio. 

The manager welcomed us, and began the presentation of the workings of this cinnamon plantation.  Bet everyone that is reading this has grown up with the spice of cinnamon, mostly used in desserts and pastries.  We learned today that over the centuries, cinnamon has been used as a medicine as well as a preservative for meat.  The manager said due to no refrigeration, even these days, cinnamon keeps the meat from turning rotten.  Nice to know. 

He spoke about the distinct quality of Sri Lankan cinnamon.  The specific variety on this island is considered to be the best in the world, and it is not imported.  Europeans stumbled upon this island purely by accident, finding this treasure.  Eventually, it brought them back from several countries to create the trade for it.

A master cinnamon cutter joined us.  He showed us the cinnamon plant, which is grown like a shrub with branches no bigger than an inch or so in diameter.  A stick the length of four to five feet is used.  The cutter sat on a mat, legs crossed, then proceeded to use a sharp shaver to strip the bark off.  The pile of trimmings is used as compost.  With the cambian layer exposed, he rolled a stick like a rolling pin over the bark to loosen it.  Then he made cuts around the bark at one foot intervals, at which time, he cut strips off of the stick.  They came off cleanly and easily.  Once he had the cut lengthwise, he peeled the rest of the bark off.  All of the strips he had taken off, were put back into the longer length of bark.  He rolled it tight, and added all the pieces together to make one five foot long stick.  This was the final product…..only the rolled bark without the wood.  Each five foot stick was added to a bundle, which was tied into a twelve inch round log for shipping.  Cinnamon in the raw.  Labor-intensive, this type of cinnamon is the most expensive product on the market. 

The manager gave us some crumbled bark to taste.  It had an intense, almost burning flavor to it, which sets it apart from what we buy at home.  The ground cinnamon we use at home comes from India, very good, but nothing close to the intensity of the flavor of Sri Lankan spice.  When we had arrived to this demo shack, we had been treated to an ice cold flute of cinnamon tea with a lime slice.  It had to be the tastiest ice tea we have ever enjoyed.  Asking how it is made, the manager said the cinnamon sticks were boiled in water first, then the tea was added later.  Also, there is a product of cinnamon oil that is used in cooking.  In hindsight, we could have purchased a tiny bottle of it here if we had the time, but we assumed that it could be bought elsewhere in Galle.  Turned out, the only oil that was sold was strictly for use on the skin, not for eating.  Too bad.  We also could have bought some small bags of the cinnamon bark, with a shelf life of 2 months, we would not be able to use it on the ship.

Sure would have been nice to relax on their outdoor patio café on the hillside, but we needed to head out.  Bill took the time to tour the resort property,  seeing the lobby, a room, and their swimming pool.  A small resort, there were only four or five rooms that we could see.  But they were modern and luxurious, and more than likely, very expensive.  We didn't ask, but can research more on the computer later.  Anyway, it was an excellent tour, and the manager even congratulated us for asking some very in depth questions regarding the cultivation of the cinnamon plants.  He said that never in his 7 year career there, and anyone asked such detailed questions.  The good thing was that he had all of the answers, showing his knowledge of agricultural practices.  Excellent, excellent experience.

On our way back to the main road, Lucky said we could tour a tea plantation, but he thought it was not on our itinerary.  Should have brought our printed booklet with us, because it was on the day's tour.  We should have gone there, but Lucky discouraged us, saying it was more of a sales pitch to buy tea, than it was a plantation tour.  Visiting a tea plantation out of Jakarta last year, we knew the process, so we said no thanks.

He did suggest, however, that we may be interested in a moonstone factory (a precious gemstone).  Sounded intriguing, but we were not in the market for jewelry.  So we said no thanks.  Prior to arriving to Hambantota, Sri Lanka, we were warned about buying gemstones here.  Unless you were taken to a top of the line shop, don't buy them, as they are probably fake.  Not that Lucky would take us to any store like that, we would never take the chance.

The scenery on the way back to Galle included passing much more crowded beaches, especially at the famous Unawatuna Beach, noted as one of the ten top beaches in the world.  Many European guests were walking the road in all forms of dress, or undress, as they were on their way to the sandy beach from their inns and hotels.  A holiday weekend, this place was very crowded.  We did stop to take photos all the way back.

We arrived at the hotel by 12:30pm, where we took a newspaper back to our cool room to try to catch up on news.  The weather has remained the same…..still hot and sticky with temps in the high 90's.  May articles in the newspaper told about heat-related problems that all needed to know.  It has been so unusually hot, that the Department of education has warned all school principals to suspend all sports events, and keep all the students inside out of the intense sun of the afternoon.  These sports events would resume next  month when the weather normally cools down with the start of monsoon rains.

So what did we do?  Turns out this was the only chance we would have to tour the fort.  We went out with plenty of water and soda around 1pm.  Crazy, but it was now or never.  Here is some basic information about the sprawling town of Galle.  This city was a Portuguese stronghold since 1625, before the Dutch took it over.  Between 1658 and 1796, the Dutch developed Fort Galle as the most secured fortress in Ceylon (Sri Lanka).  It has an area of 128 acres with 14 bastions to protect the colonial residents.

In the old days, it was the center of trade with the rest of the world….specifically the spice trade.

Portuguese and Dutch buildings that have survived are the Great Church, the Catholic Church, museums, old hospitals, a mosque, and a lighthouse and huge clocktower.

The British took over in 1796, and stayed in power until 1948, when Sri Lanka declared their independence.  Today the fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.  The town of the fort houses trendy small shops, cafes, bars, and hotels.  They sell silver, gemstones, homewares, and souvenirs.

So we hiked down the street with the help of a map.  Our hotel is located right near the gates of the fort, so it was convenient to venture out.  We'll describe this hotel later.

We found the fort not as crowded as it was on last year's visit.  Sure, it was hotter than heck, and no one was out in the heat of the day.  Also, it was Good Friday.  Many of the local boutiques and cafes were closed from noon to 3pm in the Catholic tradition.  The shops that were open offered the same souvenirs we bought last year.

We did go inside both churches,  before climbing the path that took us on top of the rock ramparts.  The view of the Indian Ocean was spectacular and so was the breeze that blew over the top of the wall.  Down below the wall, were locals swimming in the rock-strewn surf.  The tide was up so there was little beachfront.

We wrapped around the end of the wall, and walked past the Meera Mosque, rebuilt in 1909.  Nearby, we walked around the lighthouse, where carrier pigeons used to be flown from here to Colombo.  It was their "post office" pigeon service.  Later on, electric lights were used, and the lighthouse operated as a real beacon for ships.

We looked for a place for beer and pizza, but found none.  So we slowly made our way back to the hotel.  We passed by a local man who had a cobra and a monkey on a leash.  If you took a photo, he asked for money.  We have heard people say they would pay him to take the snake away.

The afternoon was partially spent writing and doing photos.  The swimming pool was calling us.  Let us tell you that going from our cool room to the outside patio was like entering a sauna with the steam cranked up high.  We are not sissies when it comes to tolerating heat, but this is different.  Extreme.

Even the water in the pool was not refreshing, because the temps must have been in the 90's.  But it was wet and so nice to take the plunge.  Only one other couple were stretched out on the over-size teak lounges with thick pads covered with towels.  This was so nice.

We could have used one of the retreat bungalows with real bed-size lounges and overhead fans.  We knew that would put us to sleep immediately.  Instead we alternated between a little sunbathing and dunking into the water.  One side of the rectangular pool had a series of steps where you could sit on them comfortably.

One of the pool attendants came running with glasses full of ice water, probably thinking we were nuts to be in the sun.  Even though it was 5pm by now, it was still warm.

With no TV, we were still in the dark with the world news.  Truthfully, we have not missed TV all that much.  We will have one in Colombo, so that will bring us up to date.

Dinnertime was at 7pm on the veranda of the dining room.  Dinner choices was similar to what we had the previous night.  Only it seemed to taste even better.  We were finished by 9pm, and could have walked the fort again if we wished.  We know that evenings can be crowded because the heat of the day had let up.  A shower and shampoo sounded way better.  By 11pm, one of us was fast asleep, and the other very close to it.  When typing mistakes occur every other line, it was time to quit. 

One last thing to do was read the Animals of Yala book from the hotel library.  So bedtime was finally midnight.

Bill & Mary Ann

A flowering tree at Amagalla

Breakfast menu in the dining hall

Sides and beverages

Enjoying a civilized breakfast

The original tiled floors

Fresh-squeezed orange juice and cappuccino

Pastries, jams, and coffee

Tile of Portuguese origins

Eggs over medium, mushrooms, potatoes, and toast

Sausage and bacon

Original crockery

The pool was inviting

Could have dined here, overlooking the pool

Amagalla from the street

Colonial architecture

Villa Mayurana

Bouganvilla does well in the heat

Grounds of the cinnamon plantation

Going down the garden stairs

Follow the path

The demo room at the cinnamon plantation

Hillsides full of cinnamon trees

The expert cutter of the cinnamon

Demonstrating how he does this

Scraping off the bark

Our host shows us the cut bark

He cuts the strips of bark off of the branch

The dining room of the cinnamon resort

A bowl of scented flowers

A unique fountain

Private dining spot

A special hybiscus

The resort lodge

Open for business

The pool area of the Villa Mayurana

Flowering lilies

Beautiful setting

Equally nice interiors

A very appealing place to stay

Decorative ponds

Great spot

One of the rooms

And spacious bathroom

One of the beaches out of Galle

They have enough boats

Fishing boats

Unawatuna Beach

A temple

Deer horns

The library at Amagalla

Checking out the old books

A sloth bear as seen in Yala Animals

We shall be in here later

The animal towel on our bed did not last long

One of the churches in Galle

One of the largest churches

Cemetery

Inside the church

The bell of the fort

Red-tiled roofs were brought from Portugal

Old building

A cobra snake-charmer

That rampart walls and the Amagalla

An ancient guard house

Scaffolded for restoration

Unassuming interior

Corner shop

Whimsical dress

View of the Indian Ocean

The tide was coming in

The opposite end of the fort

One wall

Enjoying the warm water

Sure was inviting

Rocky outcropping

The mosque on the left, the lighthouse on the other

Rocky shoreline

The lighthouse

A temple on the hillside

Rocks off of the wall

Unusual rock formations