Today's port of call was Colombo, Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon. The capital of Sri Lanka is Colombo, and the population of the island country is 21,325,000 people. The total area is 25,326 square miles, and the natives speak Sinhalese and Tamil. Much English is spoken as well.
The best time to visit is December to March to avoid the monsoons. Of course, much later in the day, we would get a taste of what a monsoon looks like.
Sri Lanka has had its troubles in the past. It is a country of political turmoil, even with the presence of Buddhist Temple throughout the island. In contrast to this, it is an island of beaches, cinnamon and tea plantations. Or jungles full of leopards in Yala National Park. They boast the highest density of leopards in the wild than anywhere else in the world. We know, as we saw many of them while on safari last year.
You can see the Asian elephants at Pinnawela Orphanage either by bus or train. We loved the train, even if it did take many hours to get there. You can also see the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy, but only accessible by floatplane , a $2000 tour today. Been there, done that, once was enough.
You can eat hoppers, pancakes made from fermented rice and coconut milk. Or drink toddy, another fermented palm sap wine. Ceylon tea is a most sought after tea here.
Here is a random fact: Cinnamon was introduced to the world from right here in Sri Lanka. It has a recorded history all the way back to 2000 BC.
We have been to Colombo numerous times, and have taken most all of the tours. Usually, we do a tour with our travel agency here, and the funny thing is that the local tour operators recognized us from previous trips. Incredible.
Barbara H. gave some hints while visiting this country. Such as displays of affection, kissing or hugging, is not proper while here. Seats in the front of the bus should be given to monks or priests if they are present. No photos of sensitive locations, especially around the Fort area. Lastly, do not turn your back on a Buddha statue….no posing for photos in front of the Buddha either. OK to take a photo as long as all persons are facing it.
So, what did we do today? No tours for us. This was the first time we ever attempted to walk out of the gates by ourselves. Never saw so many tuk-tuk drivers that would not take NO thanks for an answer to their constant begging us to take a ride anywhere. The prices were all over the board…..one dollar, five dollars, ten dollars. Don't believe it. You can agree on one dollar or more, but when you get out, they will say $30. Here is a hint that has worked for us in the past. Have the driver write down his price on a piece of paper before you get in his vehicle. That way, he will have a harder time making it higher mid-stream.
Before we left the ship, we stopped at the front desk to see what the tour info folks from Colombo had available for tourists. One fellow handed us several colorful brochures and a handful of useful maps. You will never find a better place for information with fantastic photos. So we had brochures on the wonders of Asia, their heritage, thrills (outdoor activities), festivals, and the best, wild life.
Taking only a good street map of Colombo with us, we headed off through the nearby gate to go exploring. The only thing I should have remembered taking was an umbrella, for possible showers, yes, but more for blocking the unrelenting sun. It was a killer today. Good thing we took along a bottle of water. Once through the gate, we went right, along Marine Drive. This was where we began to be approached by the taxi and tuk-tuk guys, who did not understand no, thanks. We would find out tomorrow, that we could have turned left, then found a stairway and overhead tunnel that by-passed the Marine Drive fiasco, taking us back down near the Hilton Hotel, across from the Kingsberry Hotel. Now we know for the next time we come here, which may be next year.
Even though we had not gone too far yet, one of us needed to cool down for a few minutes, So we ducked into the Kingsberry. Before we went up that street, we encountered a clean-cut Sri Lankan business man, well-dressed with a white shirt and tie. Well, we assumed he was a local businessman from the nearby offices. He flashed a badge that was on a neck lanyard, indicating that he was an official tourist guide. He claimed to be helping all the cruise passengers today, since another ship besides ours was in town…..the Norwegian Star. She had come here like us from Singapore, Malaysia, or even Thailand. Anyway, this fellow began telling us about a one day festival that was happening within the hour at the Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple. Well, that caught our attention. He continued saying that it involved a procession of elephants with music and dancing. It would make for nice photos. But then, he offered to get us a taxi or tuk-tuk to take us there. He insisted it was too far to walk, although we knew exactly where it was. And yes, we could have walked there. Also said that many vendors would be selling the precious gemstones there. Some as low as $1.00. OK, what gives? We thanked him for the info, then continued on our walk. Was this real or not? We would find out later.
As he walked in the other direction, another man dressed the same, approached us with the same info. They must have been brothers. This time we just said, yes, we knew, and we might go and check it out later. Now we did see some road blocks ready to go up on Marine Drive, but there was the Presidential Secretariat on this road, and some important officials were expected soon. The place was swarming with armed military men, so we did not question that something was going on.
We slowly walked the length of the Galle Face Green along the seawall, which faced the ocean. On one side was a chance to film some water birds like Dalmatian pelicans, storks, cranes, and egrets. They were all foraging in the smelly fresh water streams going out to the sea. Must have been full of fish that we could not see. This is the biggest concentration of birds that we have seen so far on this whole trip.
Along the double seawall, we spotted someone with a covered straw basket. He asked us if we wanted to see the cobra snake, which we instantly said, no thanks. Made us walk even faster actually.
Signs posted on the water side said that it could be deadly swimming here. There were many warning, like undertow, toxic water, or poisonous species in the surf. Not sure, we intended to ask someone later. Towards the middle of this stretch, we did see some fellows surfing and swimming. Guess they don't read.
We began to pass green tents with vendors selling packaged snack foods, drinks, and crabs. Only half of them were occupied. At the very end, some were selling toys for the little ones.
Finally, we ended up at the Galle Face Hotel, an older iconic colonial hotel. It had been under re-construction for several years, but it was finally finished. What a wonderful place to stop for a long lunch. We sat outside under the balcony with fans overhead, and a breeze blowing off of the ocean surf. Starting with ice cold Lion Lager and a soda, we waited for a club sandwich to share. The kind waiter, dressed smartly in a white jacket and black slacks, brought us a bowl of real potato chips seasoned with a chili curry. Suddenly a chipmunk-sized squirrel was looking at us from the railing….eye-to-eye. Got a good photo before he scurried off to high ground.
Bet we spent up to two hours here without feeling rushed. A few folks from the ship were here as well, catching up on their computer work. Like most nice hotels, you can use their internet if you buy food and drinks. We do not do that ever. Hate taking the computer off of the ship, so we use the ship's network instead. A lot of our minutes are complimentary for being in the President's Club.
During lunch, we asked our nice waiter about this festival happening today. He said what festival? He was not aware of any. WE explained what we had been told, and he asked us if these guys looked like businessmen with nametags. We said, yes, and he said to ignore them, since they are "touts", a fancy name for hustlers that are digging up customers for taxis and jewelry shops for a percentage of their sales. Now we get it, although further research back in our room, did indicate that a festival happens in March, where 100 elephants are paraded during the day from a park, followed by a celebration at the Gangaramaya Temple in the evening. It is a popular tourist attraction. It began as recent as 1979, and does draw a big crowd. But today was not the day. Another thing we asked about was the danger in the ocean water. He claimed it was the undertow, but knew nothing of poisonous species. That remains a mystery.
Just as we were getting ready to leave, a ship tour group entered the veranda. Happened to be a lot of our friends on our agency's tour. They were going to have an hour lunch here, which was a delicious buffet that included wine, beer, soda or water. Looked like some of them were getting grumpy (they had not eaten for a couple of hours), so we said goodbye to our friends, and headed back towards the Oceanside.
If it was not so darned hot, we may have explored a bit further, but one of us was still fighting off this cold virus, so we took our time walking back. By now, there were kids flying kites and eating all that snack food.
Further up the road, we found that the barricades had been put up, stopping traffic in both directions. Someone official was on their way to the government building there. Since that was our only way back to the ship, without going around Galle Face Green, we hoped we would not be stopped too.
Following a group of four Sri Lankans, we slipped around the barricades without anything said. However, one we stopped to take a photo of birds on the opposite side, we heard the guards start grumbling, we think, about letting all of us through. They may have closed off that access after we walk by. That's when we remembered the warning about photographing police actions. Oops.
We got back to the ship, but not without being pestered again by the tuk-tuk guys. They never give up. Once through the gate, we were OK. We had 420 rupee burning a hole in or pocket (a little under $3 USD). So we negotiated a small sequined purse for the money. The young vendor had to ask inside his shop three times before someone said OK. That was our one and only souvenir of the day.
Cooling off in our room with a lot of water and sodas, we began to catch up on computer and photo work. Sail away was set at 6:30pm, all aboard time. Funny thing happened while talking with Martin on the aft pool deck. A massive wall of black, black clouds had been forming in the sky. We assumed it was headed for the highest points on the island, but no. By 6:45pm, it began to drizzle, at which point, we all scattered for cover. Down on deck seven, the shower began in earnest, blowing water against the back windows and us. Having the good camera, we went down to six, which was just as bad.
OK, the last idea was go to deck three and find Jack and Shirley. By the time we came out the door, the rain was torrential…..a solid sheet so intense, you could not see five feet from the decks to the shore. We started hearing thunder, and soon we saw lightning. This was exciting, so we stayed with our friends enjoying every minute. There was only one spot against the wall, and under a large lifeboat that was not wet. A giant lightning bolt let loose a thunderous explosion, which sounded like a bomb. Must have hit very nearby. Just by a miracle, we happened to get a shot of another lightning bolt right when it struck in the sky near the ship. Most times you can only guess when and where the next strike will be, but for once, it was captured with one quick shot. This downpour continued for hours, causing a lot of problems on the ship, we heard later. Needless to say, the sail away had been moved to the Crow's Nest.
The Amsterdam was late in leaving. Instead of 7pm, it was closer to 8pm. Two tours were late in returning, and we had to wait for the Norwegian Star to leave first. Good thing the tours were HAL ones, because they may not have waited. Seems that the drivers had taken the buses to the other ship by accident.
Jim and Maureen were absent tonight at our table. We heard later that he had gotten sick. We ordered the boneless ribs with mashed potatoes, while watching the lightning happening on all sides of the dining room. The rain got less, but the storm continued through the night.
The entertainers were the fellows of the Fly Rights, the British singers. We were about dead, mostly done in from the intense heat today, so we missed the show.
Really looking forward to two days at sea, as we head for India.
Bill & Mary Ann
Planted the sunflowers seeds beginning of January, blooming now, March 15th
Harbor of Colombo
NCL Star, same ship across from us in Singapore
Cranes in the harbor
Shops on the dock
Passengers shopping early to avoid the sun and heat
There were 15 HAL bus tours today, and one overland to India – left at 3am
Giant stupa at the harbor entrance
Amsterdam docked
The gangway
Treasures of Colombo
Wood carvings – vendor wanted $130 for the pole fisherman
Precious gemstones or not?
Leather stools and sandals
Paintings on velvet
Walking towards the Fort
At least we were docked closer to a gate
Unusual building
Open area for parking
Amsterdam here until around 7pm
Remember the stupa….it is our way back
Port authority buildings
Giant Buddhist stupa on stilits
Another tower
The walk towards the Fort area
The Kingsberry Hotel
Wide avenues
Walking towards the Galle Face Green
Long way to go in the heat today
Entrance to the Kingsberry Hotel
Modern skyscrapers among the colonial buildings
Lobby of the Kingsberry – so nice and cool
Roses – lots of them
Tropical fish in a column-like tank
Spice jars used a decoration
One of many buffet restaurants
Chefs getting ready for the lunch crowd
Outdoor swimming pool at the Kingsberry
Sure looked inviting
Government building
Pelican on a light pole
Dalmatian pelican – one of the largest of the species
Heron
Looking for fish
This basin was full of birds
Egrets and pelicans
Many water birds
A stork
Foraging
The water was actually smelly
The city beyond
Twin towers
Stork
Cannot find his name
Modern
Can be lots of traffic here
Construction happening for the China Harbor project
Tug-of-war on the Green
Cooling off for a minute
Dangerous undertow here
The Laccadive Sea
High sea wall all the way
Rocky shoreline – not for swimming
Flag of Sri Lanka
Beach-goers
Concession stands selling packaged snacks
Vendor was selling small crabs, corn, and bread
Wished they sold umbrellas here
Good surf here
Walking towards the Galle Face Hotel
Looking towards the hotels
Let's keep going – it is so very hot
Many trash cans along the walkway
Steep seawall
Galle Face Hotel getting closer
Very interesting warnings – bathing in the sea is dangerous & poisonous species?
Guess these surfers don't read
Galle Face Hotel
Lovely veranda in the entrance
Even nicer in the back facing the sea