Another transit through the famous Panama Canal was in store for all today. A first for some, but repeat for many. Doesn’t matter how many times we have done this journey, it never fails to intrigue us. The history is so fascinating, especially after reading books describing the entire series of events that have led up to what we see today.
But first, beginning the day, it was a must to indulge with the special treat that is always served onboard…….that is the Panama Canal Rolls. Traditionally, they are served at 6:30am on some outside decks, the Crow’s Nest, and the Atrium. Since that is not starting time for us, we ask for them in the dining room. Our waiters seem to be able to round some up from the kitchen, and today was no exception. So far we have resisted the pastries, but these are so good, we had two……each. The next time we will see these should be in Sydney, disguised as Opera House Rolls.
The Amsterdam had arrived to Colon on the Caribbean side of the canal before 7:30am. Captain Mercer announced we could not proceed until the third Panamanian pilot had joined the ship before we could advance through the first locks. Only 15 minutes late, we were set to go into the first series of locks at Gatun Locks, raising the ship to the level of Gatun Lake. The actual difference in height is a bit over 88 feet. The entire transit is 50 miles to the Pacific Ocean, and should take us until 5pm, give or take.
Something we noticed immediately, was the new bridge that spans across the entrance. It was not complete when we sailed through the canal last May. Now finished and operational, it resembles the Centennial Bridge the way it is constructed. The narrator said it really made the Panamanian commuters quite happy.
The new locks on the Caribbean side, Agua Clara Locks, are not so visible, unless the Captain took the ship over that way. On one of our transits, the Captain did wander over that way, and we did see the work in progress.
In simple terms, this is the world’s most famous “short cut”, saving a ship sailing from New York to San Francisco 8100 miles. In the old days, the route required sailing around Cape Horn in South America, which was a 14,000 mile trip. Using the short cut, the mileage was reduced to 5,900 miles.
The Canal expanded, beginning in 2007, doubling the capacity to meet the increasing demand of world trade. Much of the massive work was out of sight at that time, but each year we transited, we eventually saw progress. By 2016, the work was inaugurated, and the ships larger than the Panamax-sized vessels were able to fit through the new locks. Panamax ships maxed out at 965 feet long and 106 feet wide. They were under 90,000 gross tons. Larger vessels can transit now, so it was worth the equivalent of $6.20 billion US dollars to be able to double the canal’s capacity.
Today’s weather co-operated with our transit. We had mostly sunny skies with a mostly constant breeze. That turned out to be deceiving, because one of us under-estimated the strength of the sun. The best place to enjoy the transit for us is at the Seaview Pool, but this was really the first good day to begin some sun bathing. Sure we used lots of sunscreen, but it didn’t last as long as we hoped. Covering up with the towels came a little too late. Will be more careful from here on out.
There was a commentator by the name of Antonio Grenald, who did give good narration during the day. We did notice he spoke less than the usual fellows. We’re not entirely sure, but he may have been located in the Crow’s Nest, and did take questions from the passengers there. It would have helped if he shared the questions with everyone on the ship, since we heard his replies, but not the actual questions.
Another cruise ship followed us through the canal by the name of Artania, a Phoenix Reisen vessel. A mid-size ship holding around 1200 passengers, she was formerly the Royal Princess built in 1984. The vessel was sold to this cruise line in 2011, and is described as a ship for the mature-age cruisers. Actually, the same is said about the passengers on the HAL (Holland America Line) ships as well. And it is what it is……
The transit really did not begin until 11am, after a 2 hour wait in Gatun Lake. This is normal. Then when we approached the narrow section, the Gaillard Cut, we had to wait for a large ship going the opposite direction, or we would not fit. We passed by the Chagres River, the famous prison that held Noriega, Gold Hill, and the Continental Divide on the way to the final set of locks at San Pedro and Miraflores. Going under the Centennial Bridge was neat, especially viewed from the bow of the ship. By the way, it was here that we saw the newly-painted logo for the 2019 Grand World Voyage. It is always plastered on the wall below the deck six forward railing.
The best spot to see the waiting crowd of locals to cheer us onward is also on the bow. That, of course, it when we pass the multi-level public building at the Miraflores set of locks. Don’t know who has more fun…..the crowd onshore or the passengers on the passing cruise ships as they exchange waves and songs.
The new locks on the Pacific side, Cocoli Locks, were visible from our position. Finally, we reached the Pacific Ocean after sailing under the Bridge of the Americas. That’s where we saw the most bird life of the day. There were frigates, pelicans, some gulls, and the ever-present vultures. What we missed were the huge capybaras, the world’s largest rodents. They were always in a certain area beyond the last bridge, but now there was so much new construction, these odd animals were gone. Watching the behavior of those diving pelicans always keeps our attention. There has to be a never-ending supply of seafood where the canal dumps into the ocean.
To keep us cool and hydrated, at 11am, iced water or lemonade and cold face towels were served on the outside decks. This was repeated at 2pm, but tropical chilled soup was added. We tried the pineapple-coconut treat and found it refreshing. Missing were the diced fruit skewers this time around. Then we had a nice visit with the hotel director, Henk M, who stopped by to catch up on personal news with our family and his. It never fails to amuse us the span of time it takes before other nosy passengers move in to eavesdrop, then interrupt. Usually takes 5 minutes.
Once out of the canal zone, we took a left turn, and dropped anchor close to the marina of Fuerte Amador, where we will spend the night. Tomorrow we will have a full day to explore the Panama City area.
Barb invited one of the new dance hosts, Colin, to join us for dinner. He was a pleasant fellow from England, and seemed to enjoy Barb’s company during our meal. Prime rib, lasagna, and Barb’s favorite, liver and onions, were on the menu tonight. Most of us are ordering half portions now, and it was more than enough. Usually two courses that include soup or salad is quite sufficient with a small entrée. We did cheat a bit…..sharing a small cream puff, which we call a chocolate éclair.
The strong breeze had stopped by 10pm, and the humidity was heavy while we took a stroll on the promenade deck. A flock of a different type of seabird was working the waters under the bright lights of the ship. Interesting how nature dictates the feeding habits, keeping these species alive and thriving. Time for this species to turn in.
One of us will remember today well, especially with the extra warmth of the sunburn all night…..it can only get better.
Bill & Mary Ann
Monday, January 28, 2019
Report #10 Transit the Panama Canal & Fuerte Amador January 27, 2019 Sunday Partly sunny & 85 degrees
