Today we visited the second largest island of the Society Islands….Raiatea. It was so close to the island of Bora Bora, that we could see the outline of it from here. Located 125 miles from Tahiti, about 12,250 residents live here. The ancient name of this island is Havai'I Nui, meaning springing waters. Raiatea has a total of 88 square miles and shares the same lagoon as nearby Tahaa, an island of only 34 square miles. The coastline of Raiatea is lined with deep bays and white sandy beaches.
This island boasts the peak of Mt. Tefateaiti at 3,333 feet high, with the highest peak on Tahaa, Mt. Ohiri at 1585 feet in elevation. There are maraes, or ancient sacred sites that are famous among the Polynesians. One such marae is Taputapuatea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017. It is considered the largest one in all of the islands.
Raiatea also participates in the Hawaiki Nui Va'a, the famous international outrigger canoe race. And with all of the natural harbors, this is also a nautical base for yachties and cruisers.
The largest town in this area is Uturoa, and the port we docked at today. It is a small town compared to some we have visited, but there are markets, local goods, arts and crafts, and a few churches. Outside the village, there are many things to do and see. Shore excursions numbered 10,with 4 adventure and culture tours, and 6 site-seeing tours. You could learn all about tiare growing and cultivation of the vanilla beans. Both are a big business here. The famous Anapa Pearl Farm offered up close tours to see the oyster beds as well as their shops. The adventure and water excursions took in snorkeling, kayaking, fishing, and hiking. This island has the only navigable river in all of Polynesia, where you can motor up Faaroa River. We have done a few of these tours, but the most memorable had to be the one where we saw the vanilla plantation and tiare gardens. Also, we did a tour that took in Tahaa, a very pretty and rural island.
The Amsterdam arrived to a balmy, cloudy day, but soon we had some sun. And when it appeared, it was major hot. We are here at the start of the wet season, and we almost wished it had rained today. The humidity was so high, we did not stray too far out of the area. Around 10:30am, we wandered up to the two story marketplace, where we found some fresh tropical flowers. Buying a bunch of colorful ginger and bird of paradise, we brought them right back to the ship before heading out again. Good thing we did, since later on, most all of the flowers were sold.
Then we turned right, and walked the waterfront, past the marina, and the two churches. On the waterfront, there are a few expanses of parks with concrete benches and trees for shade. In one spot, it opens up into a field where the international race is usually held. It was really exciting when we happened to be here during that competition a few years ago. Many rowers were practicing in their long boats at the time, and we had "ringside" seats, so to speak. When this event is happening, the locals drive out the food truck (roulettes) and serve all sort of good food to the crowd. We did see a few of those today when we walked back after noontime.
A bit further up the road, we walked into another public park area, where a local group were having a catered party of some sort. This was right off of the water, and near an area where people can enter the water with ladders to swim. There are public restrooms here, and on a weekend, it is full of families enjoying the day with picnics and swimming.
That was about as far as we got. Thank goodness there was a breeze, but clouds were forming and it seemed to make it hotter, if that was possible. We made a visit to the Catholic Church, then walked the town's central shopping district. That's when we spotted a small department store that was selling Hinano products. We did find two t-shirts with the famous Hinano girl on them, so this saves us the trouble when we are in Papeete tomorrow. There is a dedicated Hinano shop there, but it is always crowded, and probably more expensive.
Then we went to lunch across from the cruise ship. Remembering we had an excellent pizza there, we thought the place looked different. It had been remodeled since we were here last, but the food and beer were still the same. Denise and Howie were already there, and confirmed the pizza was good. As crowded as it was, we eventually did get waited on by a waitress. Or was the waitress a waiter? Certain that the person was a man, this is a common sight in French Polynesia. We also added a dessert of profiteroles, which was decadent. This is going to be difficult to give up once we go home. Right before we left, the owner happened to spot Bill taking a photo, and he came over to chat with us. We asked about the remodeling and he said, yes, they did. Then he said wait a minute, went to the back room, and came out with a memento of the restaurant….a keyring with the name – La Raie'Gate. Sure was nice of him.
After relaxing for an hour, we made our way back to the marketplace to check out the souvenirs on the second floor. Always intending to look and not buy, we did find a most unusual item. It was a woven bracelet with the outer shell of a vanilla bean wrapped in it. It had the most delicious aroma, we bought it for $10. Hope the fragrant smell of vanilla lasts for a while, because it reminds us of chocolate chip cookies with vanilla ice cream. Perhaps wearing the bracelet will be a substitute for the real thing.
There were several souvenir huts along the pier area, but most of the items were pricey. Certainly we will see the same things in Papeete tomorrow.
Instead of going to the sail away on the aft deck, we went to deck six forward. Denise and Howie had the same idea, as we all enjoyed watching the ship sail out of the harbor, and through the most narrow passage here. The direction we were going gave us a perfect view of nearby Huahine, which was confirmed by Denise's new phone with GPS. Even though rain looked imminent, it never did come down today.
At 6:45pm, there was a tree-lighting ceremony in the atrium, viewed on decks 3,4, and 5. Knowing it would be too crowded, we did not attend. But we are hoping to hear about it tomorrow. On our way to the dining room, we saw the confetti that was used to mimic snow. The staff had the Lionel Polar Express Train in action, as well as serving punch, hot cider, hot chocolate, and even Christmas cookies. The lyrics to three Christmas songs were printed for all to follow. And while we are thinking about it, several of the officers will be going home tomorrow until the beginning of January and the start of the world cruise. Hope we get to say goodbye.
Dinner was good, but it has become apparent that many favorite items of food are now gone. For instance, there was only enough romaine lettuce for one Caesar salad, there was no honey mustard dressing for the replacement dinner salad. At least the swordfish entrée was delicious as was the alternate Caesar salad. Tomorrow there will be a huge delivery of supplies and food taken onboard in Papeete. That should take care of us until we are back in San Diego.
This trip is going by way too quickly now…….
Bill & Mary Ann
