Twelve years ago, we made our first stop in Roseau, Dominica, while on a Grand South America Voyage. Docking in a different area at the time, we had taken a tour that took us up high into the mountains to see the rain forest, lakes, and waterfalls. Then in 2020, we stopped here again, but in a different port area. At that time, we took off for a walk on our own, following the ship's map. Yes, they used to give us area maps back then….using real paper. So, we had planned to take the path through town and into the park, where we had walked two years ago. But, it was not to be. Why? Covid.
Here's a bit of info on Dominica. It is considered the Eden of the Caribbean, due to the fact it is covered with rain forest, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and lakes. Their main economy is tied to agriculture with every fruit and veggie grown here. The volcanic island is 29 miles long and 16 miles wide. There are about 73,000 residents, 3000 of which are the original Carib Indians, who live in a village on the eastern side of the island. The warlike Caribs originally came from the Amazon, Venezuela, and Colombia, so they resemble South Americans. These days they are farmers and fishermen, while the ladies create weavings by hand and sell them to tourists.
Famous dishes here are manicou (opossum) and agouti, a large rodent. Think we will pass on those, thanks. The government banned the mountain chicken dish, which was a large frog. Seems there was a disease problem, however, it still appears on some menus. Hmmm, will pass on that too. The local drink is a spiced rum with anisette called a nanny. That might be OK. Other specialties include titiree, fish balls, or sousse, which are pickled pig's feet. Goat meat, mozzarella & blue cheese tarts, blood pudding, and saddle of lamb round out their menus. You can wash it down with the best tropical juices you will ever find anywhere. Hungry yet?
Shortly after the ship was cleared, another announcement was made that the local government would not grant "free-flow" today, due to Covid rules. We did suspect that this might be the case here, so we wonder why this port was substituted for Grenada, where they recently lifted the ban of independent tourists? Oh well, we have seen the city and the surrounds, so we felt we were not missing too much.
Did we mention that this is the first visit for the N. Statendam to Dominica? A maiden port we think it is called. It is possible there was some sort of special commemorative plack gifted to the ship. Will ask tomorrow.
We stayed onboard until 11:30am, watching the activity ashore from our veranda, as the ship was docked portside. Many folks were squeezing into vans and open-air trucks like cattle. Seriously, how can that be considered social distancing? As for us, we were allowed to go across the bridge from the pier, and stay within a block of the waterfront. Access to the hillside town was blocked by barricades on both ends of the street. And the rest was fenced off, making us realize we were corralled just like cattle again. The one street that was opened for traffic was manned by guards who stopped anyone on foot. Of course, the waterfront was lined with many tents with vendors selling souvenirs.
Sometimes the best way to find out about local rules and regulations is by asking someone. Near the end of the blocked street, a very nice guard came over to us, probably to warn us not to escape. So we asked her about what was going on with the Covid situation on the island. She confirmed that everyone that lived here was vaccinated, and the numbers of infection were low. She mentioned a number of 300 cases, but we do not know the time frame for that number. Then she added that absolutely no passengers had been allowed free-flow here since 2020. Even the guests on the 4 mast sailing vessel, the Wind Star, which was docked further up town, were not allowed to roam round. They had been corralled also. Apologizing, she said they hope things change soon, as we informed her many of the other islands were opening up. She agreed that by doing this, they were losing money. Another vendor also repeated the same story. It has been a long two years for them as well.
We had not intended to buy anything, but there was one stand that offered handcrafted jewelry made out of cloth. We had seen this the first time while in West Africa, and found the pieces interesting in a different way. Priced right, one set found its way into my bag. Other items sold here were spices, batik clothing, lacquered and woven boxes, and wooden trivets to name a few. Many of the cruisers were having fun buying things, especially the ones that did not take a tour.
This morning, the shore excursions were on the TV. They were mostly scenic tours to the mountains, or a boat ride to snorkel somewhere. There are few beaches here, and if there is one, it would be black or brown sand. Diving is the real draw here, as it is considered in the top 10 dive spots in the world. Whale-watching gives a 90% sighting, since there are resident sperm, humpback, and minke whales, as well as dolphins and orcas. The prime time for that is November through February. Hiking or 4 wheel drive trips take people up the Morne Diablotin at 4,747 feet. And Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has 17,000 acres of lush land – considered the crown jewel of Dominica.
So our one hour walk was very short today, but at least we were able to connect with some locals. Then it was back to the room to process photos and do some research. At least we had a bird's eye view of the city's waterfront. And the sun was on the opposite side, so we did not bake all afternoon.
The ship left around 5pm, but only after two buses arrived late. Guess they were HAL tours, or they might have been left behind.
There was not a lot of great choices in the dining room for dinner tonight, so we made reservations in the Tamarind. No problem for 8pm. Actually this was the busiest we have seen this venue since we have been onboard. Our meal was perfect, with most of the same items we always order. We skipped dessert again, which would have been a bit too much tonight. Three courses was plenty.
Now we are headed for St. Kitts, not one of our favorite stops. There will be no rush to get off of the ship, especially if several other ships are in port, like the last few times.
Bill & Mary Ann
Wednesday, March 23, 2022
Report #95 Roseau, Dominica Tuesday-March 22, 2022 Partly Cloudy With Some Sun 80 Degrees
