Today's port of call was Port Arthur, Tasmania, Australia. Luckily, one of us was up early as usual to get some photos when entering through the headlands, as it was quite scenic. The sun had come up by then, and it was the perfect exposure to see all of the colors of the windblown cliffs as we sailed into the bay. This happened to be the better part of the day weatherwise, as things deteriorated later in the morning.
We went to breakfast at 7:30am, and when we saw the view of where the ship anchored, we thought we were back in Alaska's Inside Passage. The tree-studded hillsides at this end of the scenic bay were quite similar. Since we had some catching up to do with yesterday's exploits, we stayed onboard until closer to 10 am. One of us had been reading while sitting in the sun on the veranda, when we looked up and saw an ominous black system heading our way. The Captain had mentioned that things can turn on a dime in this part of Australia, and he was right.
By the time we reached the tender boat, the skies had darkened, and the rain started. Of course, we had umbrellas, but with the wind, they may not have worked well. Most of the tour groups had left the ship already. Here are a few of what was offered: A tour of Port Arthur and geological panoramas for $80, Tasman Island Eco Cruise for $160, Port Arthur behind the bars a walking tour for $80, the same walking tour with food & wine for $180, a lavender farm with wine for $130, or a trip to Tasmanian Devil Unzoo for $100. We have done a couple of these tours years ago, so knew we could cover a lot of ground on our own today.
The ride over went smoothly, although the Captain had warned that the ride back may be difficult if the winds picked up. This may have scared off some guests from going ashore. This stop today did not take you near any town or village, but only the prison grounds. The Port Arthur penal station was created in 1830 as a timber working camp, with prisoners as laborers that produced sawn logs for the government projects. Eventually by 1840, more than 2000 convicts, soldiers, and civil staff lived here. They produced everything from worked stone and bricks to furniture, clothing, and even boats and ships.
For the prisoners, it was a punishment station for repeat offenders from all of the Australian colonies. Discipline, punishment, religious and moral instruction were extremely imposed on the convicts, men and women alike. There was even a boys' prison for ages 9 to 17, keeping them separate from the adults. They were taught a trade as well as learning to read and write.
On the other hand, the community of military and free people lived in stark contrast to the convicted ones. They enjoyed parties, regattas, and literary events in their beautiful gardens situated far enough out of sight of the prison buildings. Eventually the penal system closed in 1877, and many of the structures were dismantled or burned in wildfires. By 1920, many of the existing old buildings had become museums, hotels, and shops. In time, the state government acquired portions of the property and a major conservation project began in 1980. Then in 2010, Port Arthur and 10 other similar sites were inscribed on the World Heritage List as the Australian Convict Sites World Heritage property.
We had to laugh at the length of the line of people waiting to take our tender boat back to the ship. There were over 100 folks ready to board the tender. They had not been prepared for the sudden change of weather, and had no place to stay out of the rain. Oh well, more room for the rest of us. One of us was happy to see some young greeters handing out maps and brochures of the property. Everything we needed to know. With those in hand, we headed straight for the penitentiary, the largest building on the property. It was originally a flour mill and granary in 1845, but was converted into cells for the worst of the convicts. The two lower floors contained tiny cells for the repeat offenders, with the top floor for the better behaved convicts. They got to sleep in bunks. A library, mess hall, and a chapel were in the same building. Devastated by fire in 1897, all that remains of it are the masonry walls and barred windows.
It was very full of tourists, so we headed off on a seaside trail, which led us for a few miles around Mason Cove to Carnarvon Bay, leaving the property by climbing up steps that went up and over existing fencing. We came across a town which turned out to be Port Arthur. Since it was raining heavier here, and we had lost the protection of the ancient trees, we decided to head back the way we came. Then we saw the strangest thing. There were some people snorkeling along the rocky shoreline, as if searching for something. Very odd, since that water had to be ice cold, and the area was not really accessible from the trail we walked. We did not stick around to ask questions.
Most of the trees here were eucalyptus and older than dirt. One had the diameter of 6 feet, and probably measured over 25 feet in circumference. If only these trees could talk. The trail sides were covered with mossy rocks and ferns. We even saw what appeared to be blueberries, but darker blue growing like a bulbing plant. When nothing appeared to be eating them, they were more than likely poisonous. We finally got back to the prison property and continued our extensive tour of the entire place. Heading straight up the side trail, we visited every building reading the signage at each display. There were quite a few restrooms throughout the property as well. The only part we missed was the Dockyard where the convicts built as many as 150 small boats and 16 large vessels. There was a lime kiln here which was used in the brick and stone laying in the old days.
We also did not take the ferry that went to the Isle of the Dead, where between 1833 and 1877, 1100 people were buried in this cemetery. It was the final resting place for not only the criminals, but also civilian and military officers, their wives and children. The Point Puer Boys' Prison was also accessed by a ferry. The ages of the boys were from 9 to 17, but their young age did not protect them from the stern discipline and punishment. However, they did receive an education before they were released into the general population.
The nicest part of the property had to be where the civilian houses were built along with the remains of the Church overlooking the government gardens. From here, we made our way to the Visitor's Center and museum. There was a restaurant on one side of the center where they served coffee, cakes, snacks, and light desserts as well as light meals with wine and drinks. Greg and Heo dined there with Rich and Ginni and raved about the meat pies that they all ordered.
That got us thinking about lunch, and decided we had walked our legs off, and a room service lunch was in order. The ride back was windy and cold, but getting on the tender boat was easy with lots of crew helping. Back on the ship by 2pm, we ordered salads and sandwiches which arrived by 2:30pm.
About 3:45pm, Captain Friso announced that we would be leaving shortly. The clouds were breaking up, but he said the Tasman Sea was vicious once we left the headlands. He said the winds were gale force and we could expect motion on the vessel. He did promise some scenic cruising on the way to Hobart, especially around Cape Raoul where there are some impressive pinnacle-shaped spires all standing at attention. We braved the biting winds and went down to the promenade deck to get some pictures. Not exactly dressed for the gale force winds, one of us went back to the room to warm up.
By 7pm, we began seeing civilization on the coastline as we got closer to Hobart, where the ship would dock by 8pm. Ian had announced that there was a holiday there and a regatta festival was in progress. Fireworks over the harbor were promised at 9:30pm. We were off to dinner by 7:30pm, and all were present. Thank goodness that hot split pea soup was served. Nothing better on such a cold day. Mains for us were one fried pork chop with sides I like, and one salmon dinner. Desserts were not-so-warm sticky date pudding with ice cream and a fruit plate with the sweetest pineapple and watermelon. Heo and Greg were going to bundle up and head to town this evening, while the rest of us headed back to our rooms to hopefully watch the fireworks. We heard the noise, but never saw the fireworks. Oh well, it would take 2 hours to write the day's report, not counting doing the photos. Keeps us busy for sure.
We will spend the night here and leave tomorrow around 4pm. Got to rest up for another day of exploring.
Bill & Mary Ann
