Waking up at the ridiculous time of 5am, we found that we were sailing past the island of Bora Bora, an unscheduled trek, probably requested of Captain Paul by many of the passengers. Being that we had that port cancelled a few months ago, at least we might be able to see it from a distance. Honestly, at that time of the morning, it was too dark for good photos. And it was also very wet outside on our veranda due to the heavy mist coming at us from the waves below. Once the sun began to rise, we could make out the outline of the mountain peaks and the surrounding motus and lagoons. We have been most fortunate to having visited this island paradise numerous times over the years, and always marvel at the scenery. It has been described as having scintillating lagoons of blue, turquoise, to sapphire waters – a quintessential tropical dream. Only 5½ miles, long and 2½ miles wide, this 7- million- year- old island is home to 10,550 residents. The two tallest peaks are Mt. Otemanu at 2385 feet and Mt. Pahia at 2168 feet in elevation. Once the clouds cleared we could see the tops of those famous peaks. The main village is Vaitape, where we would have tendered from the bay. Unless we come here on a smaller ship, we will not visit here again any time too soon. Just as we turned and passed the island, a partial rainbow appeared, like the island was thumbing her nose at us.
Our planned destination for today was the island of Raiatea with a population of 12,250 people. This island consists of 238 square kilometers with a total circumference of 98 kilometers. Their highest peak is Mt. Tefatoaiti at 1017 meters in elevation and the island is only about 3 million years old. It is home to the largest marae (sacred terraced temple) in French Polynesia, called Taputapuatea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the island has the only navigable river in Polynesia called the Faaroa River.
When we visit here, you get two -for- one since the closest neighboring island to Raiatea is Taha'a. This smaller island of 5235 natives has a land area of 88 square kilometers with a circumference of 67 kilometers. Mont Ohiri is the tallest peak at 598 meters high. After leaving Bora Bora behind, we entered the lagoon of Taha'a through one large opening and sailed the inner lagoon of the smaller island for a while. Lucky for us, all of the scenery was on the port side. Taha'a is known as the vanilla islands with 8 villages, numerous guest houses, and resorts. As much as ¾ of the vanilla production come from Taha'a and closeby Huahine. A specialized sugar cane grown here has given rise to rum production gaining a worldwide reputation. This island will be one of the destinations for shore excursions as it shares the lagoon with Raiatea.
And speaking of tours, here are some that were offered today. Starting with Raiatea, there was a 3 ½ hour highlight drive for $120, and a sacred island drive in Le Truck for 3 ½ hours for $90. There was a drive up the Faaro River with a beach break for 3 hours for $100 or a 3 ½ hour kayak adventure for $120. The rest of the excursions went to Taha'a. For $160 you could taste vanilla and have a motu picnic for 3 ½ hours. We have done the drift snorkel for 3 ½ hours for $160, or there was Taha'a discovery and motu by catamaran also 3 ½ hours for $120. Last but not least, you could visit a pearl farm then snorkel, a 3 hour tour for $130. We noticed that several of these tours were morning times, and also available in the early afternoon.
After breakfast, we worked on photos until almost 11 am, then headed off of the ship for a long walk. We had missed the welcoming band and the handing out of the tiare flower buds. These native flowers are grown primarily on Raiatea, since it is the ideal climate for them. It was a pleasant 77 degrees outside with broken clouds and a wind of 24 mph. Most everyone lost their hats when they exited the gangway on the pier. The winds were that strong. At least it did not rain like it did last year. Following the road to the right, we passed the small boat marina where the tours were beginning to take off. Further up this road was the large vessel marina, followed by a public area with a pool-like setting. This is the setting for the Hawaiki Nui Va'a, the famous international outrigger canoe race. We have been here on past trip when this was in the middle of happening. It was exciting to see the competitors and their boats. Early in May of this year, the 19th edition of the Tahiti Pearl Regatta took place in this same park. Relaxing on a nice cement bench there, we could see the outline of Bora Bora from here. Many other ship guests were doing the same as us.
We headed back passing one of the many churches and stopping in the Catholic one nearer to town. We did take the time to pass through the produce market, and climbed the stairs to the second level where most of the souvenirs were displayed. Prices were higher than last years, but we were not surprised as French Polynesia is known for being pricey.
It was already 1pm, and beer sounded great. Back at the cruise terminal is a place called La Raie Gate, an open-air café that serves draft beer and a very good pizza among other specialities. The French Polynesians sure have a way with baking the best bread and today was no exception. We ordered a pepperoni pizza and two beers, sitting directly across from the ship. It was a short walk back, and it was still windy. And of course, the rest of the afternoon was spent working on pictures and reports. Since we were docked with the view of the water, it was fun watching the crazy guys with their kite boards. With strong winds, sometimes these fellows were 20 feet up in the air with small motor boats speeding under them. Sharing the lagoon were kayakers and tour boats of all sizes.
We had forgotten that at 4pm, the local officials were presenting a special plaque to Captain Paul for the Volendam. They usually do this for a maiden port, but we shall have to inquire what the occasion was. Captain Paul reported that there was a nice ceremony impressing all that participated and watched. Before 6pm, he had turned the ship around, and headed back the same way we had come in. This gave the starboard folks the chance to see what they missed this morning. We still claim we got way better pictures this morning because the light was by far better. Sunset was 6:15pm, and it looked promising for a while, then it fizzled. Too many thick dark clouds on the horizon hid the sinking sun.
Our biggest event was getting another President's Club amenity of Coke Zeros and flowers, which arrived after dinner. We did not expect them since it appears most all of the fresh flowers around the ship are gone now. This bouquet was full of proteas which will last until we reach San Diego.
Dinner was in the Pinnacle Grill with our usual wedge salads, double dressings, and savory clothesline bacon. Warm rolls are always served with two types of toppings. One is a garlic butter and the other is a red bell pepper and cream cheese spread. Our mains were lamb chops, skinny fries, and one loaded baked potato. We shared a Baked Alaska, just right for two. Other than us, there were a total of four guests dining at 7:30pm this evening. Guess with such active tours today, the folks turned in early. Showtime was supposed to be a vocalist and pianist, Lisa Harman, but in her place, were the Biddys.
Ready for another early start to the day tomorrow with scenic cruising into Moorea beginning at 6:30am. Not sure both of us will be viewing that one.
Bill & Mary Ann
