One of the world's largest lizards reside on Komodo Island as well as a few of the nearby islands. And that is our port of call today – Komodo Island in Swali Bay, Indonesia. This happens to be one port that no guest can go ashore without a tour….either with the shore excursions or an independent tour. A few weeks ago, those folks who had pre-booked a tour here on their own had to produce proof of that tour, or they would not be allowed off of the ship. It was written in our itinerary that this was a "service call" only, which really means without a tour, you would remain on the ship.
An Indonesian visa was required for all guests, regardless if you went ashore or not. Once again, these visa charges were non-negotiable. The fee for US citizens was $60. This will cover any other port we visit in Indonesia, which this time, it will be Bali. An extra $10 charge was added for Bali and is called a tourist tax. All of these fees would be applied to our shipboard accounts. The good thing is that we did not have to apply for these visas before the cruise, and we are able to use some of our non-refundable shipboard credit to cover the charges.
The ship had to anchor in a bay close to the pier where the tenders dropped us off. But before the anchorage was done, the Captain took a ride close to the island, giving us a view of the village nearby the Komodo National Park. The last time we were here, all of the scenery was on the starboard. We never realized a village with many buildings, a mosque, a hotel, and a marina were so close. This may have been Kampung Komodo, a 30 minute boat ride from the park's pier. It is described as a Bugis fishing village, unique to this remote area of the world. One of us was awake early enough to snap some great photos of the sun hitting the gold dome of their mosque.
So with all that in mind, we decided at the last minute to book a tour today, even though we have been to Komodo several times in the past. The only tour left was the Komodo Island Adventure described as strenuous for about 2 hours. The cost was almost $120 per person, but it was another good way to use some of our shipboard credit again. Tour descriptions crack us up as they over-emphasize the highlights of the excursion. For example, it states that we will set out to search for the fierce Komodo dragon at a fenced area near Banunggulung. Not sure what that was, but there was no fence and no lizard to be seen behind a fence. We were promised an English-speaking guide and park rangers. Well, our nice guide did speak English, but he was so quiet, most of us had a difficult time hearing him. They kept the group size at about 20 people, but there were so many groups, we were back-to-back on the trails. If a guide with another group happened to be louder (they all were louder), then that's all we could hear. Since this was not our first time here, we did not say anything since we already knew the talks well. Taking photos was more important for us.
To back up a bit, the tender boat ride over to the long pier was fairly quick. And we had been warned that there were steep concrete stairs to climb out of the boat to get to the pier. It was nice that there were many helping hands to haul us up those narrow stairs. The pier seemed to go on forever to reach the shore and the entrance to the park. The pier was also filled with vendors, mostly young boys, selling trinkets and treasures. This long stretch of the pier was also filled with folks coming back from the earlier excursions. They looked like they had been through the mill with the heat and humidity and were on a run to get back to the ship.
We were group # 28 and assembled near the park's map with all the information you needed to see the trails, the type of wildlife you could expect, and the park rules. One thing stood out while scanning the sign and that was the actual price of the three types of trail tours you could pay for here. The highest ticket price was 300,000 rupiah which computed to about $20 USD. There were other groups here from nearby resorts, so we assume they had to pay for a ferry to come here, then pay the park fee. Somehow we doubt that their price came anywhere close to $120. Many years ago, we asked our then shore ex people why the price was so high. We were told it was due to the fact they had to hire many extra rangers and guides than are usually there to accommodate our large numbers. And the second excuse was insurance to cover our visit. Nothing has changed, and all of us were aware of the high price. Of course, we did get a bottle of water, and the other groups did not. Mighty expensive bottle of water…….. Oh well, we are here and we will make the best of it.
We no sooner began walking the trail, when a small lizard was spotted crossing a wooden bridge. By small, we mean about three feet long and maybe three years old, according to our guide. This young dragon was on its merry way away from the crowds we think. Then out of the blue, a very large dragon was coming our way right down the narrow trail we were on. The guide and rangers had us move to the side of the muddy trail, and let the creature pass by. And we mean pass by very close – inches from our feet. Park rangers were behind it with their forked sticks, keeping it going away from all of us. These were the best photos of the day.
Continuing on, we watched for the wealth of gorgeous birdlife, as the tour said. All we saw, but mostly heard, were some yellow-crested cockatoos way up in the canopy. If there were other species of birds here, we did not see them. Most times, these birds will not be active at this time of day. One exception was a sea eagle we saw briefly when we got off of the tenderboat. Other birds we may have seen were green imperial pigeons, large crows, sunbirds, friarbirds, orange-footed scrubs, dragoons, and orioles. If they were there today, they were masters at hiding. Other larger animals that survive here are wild boar and Timor deer – both food for the dragons. Six years ago, we saw plenty of these animals, but today, not so much, at least on this island.
One of the largest Komodo dragons we saw happened to be at the pond area, where it was being held for the tourists to see. Truthfully, it looked dead, until it moved its clawed leg and turned its head. So many guides were trying to get photos for their guests and more and more groups were arriving, we were surprised the creature stayed there that long without fleeing. Our guess was that this dragon was well-fed yesterday, and it was not hungry. One other time there were three dragons at this pond, and a younger dragon took off running right at our group. One of the ladies in our group fell and was injured. She happened to be our guest chef at the time, and was treated ASAP for her injuries. Yes, she survived. After everyone crowded in front of each other taking cell phone pictures, our group went off to the side. That made room for more tourists to circle the rather odorous and green slimy pond water. We think our guide mentioned that the dragons do not come here to drink, but lay in wait for possibly a Timor deer to attack while it is drinking the water. With their vicious bite, they inject deadly poisonous bactera into their victim, then track it as it gets sick and dies. It takes time. A ghastly image, but that is life on this island.
From here we were led on a long trail through the canopy of trees and vines. Our guide stopped every 10 minutes and gave a talk about something, while we kept an eye out for wild boar or bird sightings. We did see more wildlife six years ago, but then we happened to be on an earlier tour that day. Normally during the heat of the day, the animals and birds will lay low.
Eventually, we came upon a very muddy creek where we crossed a wooden bridge. This dropped us off near park headquarters and a chance to use not-so-great restrooms. When we realized the group would be waiting for folks to take their turn, we left and went on to the final stretch. And as you might guess, that was the series of tents that housed tables of never-ending Komodo Island t-shirts, wood-carved dragons, and lots of Hong Kong-style jewelry. It was all we could do to get from one end to the other saying "no thanks" since we already had most of these trinkets. Once away from the food stalls and beach area, we left the park where the pier began. Now we had the young boys selling stuff. One fellow had single pearl necklaces which could pass for close to real. We got a silver one for $10 AUD and he was happy.
The last time we were here, there were a dozen dragons roaming the beach. Today there were none.
Getting on the tenderboat was slow-going since the steep and narrow concrete stairs looked even steeper on the way down. Many crew members guided us safely to the boat. It was going to be nice to be back onboard, but when we arrived at the ship's landing, it began to rain. It must have been a passing shower which really felt good at this point.
All aboard was 3:30pm, but we are certain most everyone was back well before that. The Lido was very crowded with folks that appeared not to have eaten for days. We were happy with a salad and sandwich, although they ran out of regular lettuce and only offered spinach. Good thing we will be getting re-provisioned in Singapore.
While cooling off on our veranda, we saw herds of Timor deer on the beaches off a close-by island. The terrain here would support a large number of deer, which in turn, become feed for the dragons.
Our anchor was lifted by 4pm, and we were off toward Bali. The sail away was scenic with the addition of several dolphin sightings. It was finally cooling off a bit with a nice breeze on our veranda. We would have hours and hours of photo-sorting and reports to do, but it would have to be later or tomorrow.
Dinnertime found the dining room full, despite the fact there was a craft burger and beer fest in the Lido. Deck nine would still be hot, so the dining room was a better choice for most. We had starters of a shrimp cocktail and a scallop dish. Caesar salads preceded our mains of pork medallions and English roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. Both were quite good. Desserts were the usual – one scoop of vanilla ice cream and a lemon sherbet, better than their sorbet.
There was a pianist by the name of Sueli Tang, entertaining the guests with timeless hits from Abba, Queen and more.
Tomorrow will be a very special day in Bali, especially for many of the crew members.
Bill & Mary Ann