We have arrived to the port of Praia on the island of Santiago which is part of the archipelago of Cape Verde. Also known by the Portuguese name of Praia, Ilha de Santiago, Cabo Verde. These islands are located about 500 kilometers west of Senegal, West Africa and has a population of 553,000 people that speak Portuguese.
A blend of volcanic mountains, beaches, and seaside villages best describes the several islands of Cape Verde. Bordering the high season here, Praia, the capital, is our destination today. Santiago is the largest of the islands and the first to be settled by the Portuguese in the 1400's. Besides some sandy beaches and desert plains, there are green valleys suitable for sugar cane, which was grown here for centuries. The interior is mountainous and perfect for hiking. Inexpensive flights are available connecting the islands as well as a ferry service.
The food and drink is typically Portuguese with imported olives and wines. The African base food is corn and beans with all types of fish and the usual staples. Many Italian tourists are attracted to Cape Verde, so it stands to reason there are wonderful pasta and pizza venues. This works for us, as you may have already guessed. However, today while in Praia, we were not in an area where we could find pizza, so we did not eat lunch there.
The town of Mindelo on Sao Vicente has an annual Mardi Gras that is considered the sexiest one this side of Rio. Last year, we stopped at Mindelo and found it was a much more modern city with nice beaches…more attractive to the European vacationers. For the music lovers, Praia has a line-up of African and European performers that give a concert that is held over 4 days in April. It is followed by a jazz festival, which is huge.
There were some ship tours today of course. Cultural Praia was a 3 ½ hour walk for $65 in the Plateau area, exactly where the complimentary shuttle dropped us off. Three tours had a lunch and 7 ½ to 8 hours from $110 to $120. One was Taste of Santiago, then Island Discovery, and Nature and Culture. One was called The Safari for 3 ½ hours in a 4x4 vehicle in the mountains for $140….no lunch.
Our day began with a great view of the dock activity while eating breakfast once the gangways were put out. The tour groups came off the forward exit, while everyone else came off deck A center ship. An ambulance showed up, and took someone off in a gurney…luggage and all. The good news was that this person, we think a man, was waving to everyone as he was put in the ambulance. The Captain, Henk, Kimberly, and Daphne, our guest relations manager all wished him well and one of them even gave this fellow a kiss. That made us think this was a crew member. Right before we left the port, the ambulance arrived while the same officers welcoming the patient back to the ship…luggage and all. He was walking, so that was even better news that he was not left behind.
During Kimberly's port talk on Praia, she mentioned that some of the town might close at noontime and not open again since it was a Friday. However, we were not in a big hurry to take the shuttle, because we knew from previous visits that most businesses would not open until later in the morning. Then there was another crew drill at 9:30am, necessary, but also interrupting and noisy. It lasted for one hour, then we decided it was time to leave. It appeared the shuttles were running every 15 minutes or so. Except for loading the many types of wheelchairs and scooters, it took longer. And these were the small buses which could navigate the narrow streets on the Plateau. We figured the last time we stopped here, it was while on the 2018 world cruise. There was much about the village on the plateau that we did not remember.
Everything to see on the Plateau was within walking distance. Naturally, when we got off of the shuttle there were the groups of locals pushing their tours for cheap. Once you said no thanks, they gave up easily. A young woman docent was there to give directions to the bus folks. The first thing she mentioned was that there was free wifi in all of the squares and parks. Then she described the layout of streets where the tourists go. If we needed additional help, she was available all day at this bus stop.
We walked up to the pedestrian street, then turned left, recalling there was a spectacular view from the end of this plateau. That's when we ran into the first tour group doing the same thing as us but paying $65 for a guide and the ride here and back. The group was at the Palace of the President, and the military area with the massive Cape Verde flag. A statue of Diogo Gomes, the Portuguese explorer that discovered these islands in the 1400'2, was situated on the plateau with a wonderful view of the ocean and coastline below. The Prime Minister's Residence was here with several embassies. Police and military armed guards were everywhere, while a film crew was documenting something with the street blocked. We recalled this same scenario occurred when we were here in 2018.
We made or way to the central pedestrian Avenida Cidada de Lisboa where we ran into a small park with a fountain. Every single bench was filled with ship guests trying to get their free wifi. There is an outdoor mall with a multitude of shops, cafes, pubs, an old produce market with 2 levels, and a regular supermarket at the far end. Many of the tiny cafes had benches and tables in a patio with the local beer, Estrela, advertised on the backs of the plastic chairs. We ventured into the produce market, or should we say…we squeezed into the entryway at this busy market. One of us was reluctant to go inside, however, it was too late to turn back. The produce looked healthy and fresh being sold by mostly women who had little kids running around, or babies confined in plastic milk crates. We did make it upstairs to the second level, expecting to see some souvenir tables, but all that was upstairs was more food products. Many locals chose to sit on these steep stairs, so going back down was not so easy. We have to add that one of us was subject to begging from some of the market vendors. Even the little kids touched my legs as I walked by. After getting close to the fish section of this market, the smell drove us out within minutes. If there was a place where one might get pick-pocketed, this would be it. Therefore, I was anxious to get back outside and away from the crowds.
The only thing one of us was looking for was a simple visor with Cape Verde embroidered on it. We soon figured out they don't exist here in Praia. Even popular baseball caps for the fellows were not to be seen. We did take the time to duck into the narrow souvenir shops checking out their costume jewelry, but nothing popped out as special. We heard later that the vendors were happy to take the Euros, US dollars, and any credit card. The ratio for $1 USD was 102 CVE. And no doubt, even the shop vendors would bargain.
There was no café or restaurant that was suitable for lunch. And besides, most all of the chairs were already occupied by the cruise line guests who arrived before us. Just as well, we are saving our appetites for the Canary Islands where we know some of the best places for pizza. Making our way back to the shuttle stop, we ran into more tour guides trying to get our business. No thanks worked fine. While waiting for the shuttle to leave, a vendor tried selling his single shell necklaces through the opened windows. The lady sitting in front of us was trapped and had to listen to this guy's sales pitch. He kept saying the necklaces were for 2 year olds. That's what we all heard. Then after repeating it over and over, we realized he was saying 2 Euros. He made no sales.
Then suddenly, a man from our ship came running and asked for help for a man who had an accident and needed to get back to the ship. The docent explained this to the driver in rapid Portuguese, who went up the street and picked up this elderly man with his distraught wife. It appeared that he either did a face plant or was punched. No one asked as he was holding a washcloth to stop the bleeding. People sitting in the front of the shuttle made room for both of them. We were back to the pier within minutes and they were the last to get off. Hopefully he will be OK. It was no surprise there would be accidents with walking on the cobblestone streets with high sidewalks. Even to access the small shops, you have to go up concrete steps to get inside with no handrails. Anyway we were back to the ship by 12:30pm – record time for a port walk.
We spent the rest of the afternoon working online and reading on the veranda. As the day advanced, the winds picked up and the temperature dropped to almost chilly. After at least three buses arrived late from their 8-hour tours, the ship left around 5pm. The Captain's talk was short and sweet saying that we would be passing two other Cape Verde islands on our way northeast towards the Canary Islands. The sighting would be on the port side, good for us. We did pass one of the islands, Maio before it got dark. The second island was Boa Vista, but that was around our dinnertime.
We will have 942 nautical miles to reach Tenerife in a few days. The weather should be sunny with 23 knot winds and 7 foot sea swells. The temperature will be close to 69 degrees with increasing swells overnight. And finally, the clocks will go FORWARD this evening.
Dinnertime found very few choices for us on the menu. We did like the chicken and raisin appetizer with different types of salads. Mains were one salmon dinner, mostly because I liked the rice pilaf. It was good and there were no bones in the fish, my biggest objection to fish entrees. One of us had the braised short ribs with teriyaki sauce. Quite nice. No dessert for either of us.
Then we lost the one hour with the clocks set ahead and skipped the entertainment of piano man Naki Ataman. We still may had another hour lost tonight as we head for the Canary Islands. Time will tell.
Bill & Mary Ann
