The timing of our day in Glacier Bay had been changed from what we recall from our first two treks here. So instead of 6:30am, the park rangers came onboard at 7am. Actually that was more convenient for us, because we could squeeze our breakfast in before the viewing and narration began at 9am. There were actually a few humpback whales near the entrance to the bay as well.
Gloomy Knob, the 1331 foot granite mountain would be the first point of interest because it has a small population of almost impossible mountain goats to see. Ranger Deidra began pointing out a few of the wild goats, which appeared to be tiny grains of rice from the ship. Without binoculars or a powerful camera lens, it was doubtful to see these elusive creatures and get some good shots of them. Only one of us went out there on deck six forward to brave the elements after 9am. The temperature was 48 degrees with a one mph wind, except with the ship moving, that wind speed would increase and drop the temperatures even more. Just as some mountain goats came into view, a low bank of fog covered them up.
As the ship continued north, we spotted another cruise ship well ahead of us, assuming it was the Coral Princess. We believe the change in the viewing times may have had something to do with them. We began to see some of the sea otters floating on their backs as we passed Reid and Lamplugh Glaciers on the port side about 9:50am. Also spotted the presence of a lot of ice bits in the waters. Most of the larger bergs we had seen for the last two visits had melted to half their size. There were absolutely no harbor seals to be seen today. Only sea birds such as a variety of gulls, kittiwakes, and possibly puffins were visible today. Dutch pea soup was to be served at 10am, but it was not brought to the bow, just the promenade deck as far as we could see.
Some of the glaciers are receding, but others are advancing, which is good news. Proceeding around Jaw Point, we expected to be passing Johns Hopkins Glacier, but we continued to enter the inlet this time all the way to the face of the tidewater glacier. If harbor seals were here, we would not have been permitted to enter. This glacier is as high as a 20 story building, but not quite as wide as Margerie. The ice field of Johns Hopkins consists of 86 square miles with an estimated weight of 12 billion metric tons. This is the first time we have been so close to this tidewater glacier. But what happened to seeing Margerie Glacier? With the Captain staying at this glacier until 12:15pm, we knew that the viewing of Margerie, the most photographed glacier in the park, was not going to happen. Here's our guess. Being that the Coral Princess was ahead of us, we think she went there taking our predicted time at 11:15am. No way we could visit both with the time left, but as far as we know, nothing was really said about missing this glacier. Passing Jaw Point very slowly, the ship turned right and headed south, passing Lamplugh and Reid on the starboard side. No viewing for us. We also got to see retreated glaciers of Hoonah and Gilbert in Johns Hopkins Inlet, however.
The Glacier Coffee and Cocoa Express sales must have been good, since we saw several folks with the special insulated souvenir mugs. Bailey's Irish Cream, coconut rum, crème de cocoa, Kaulua and cream, or brandy were the choices today. They ranged from $20 to $22 plus gratuities and would be delivered to your room between 8 and 10am, but you had to be present to receive them. We did buy these a few years ago and actually got the ½ off Mariner price which was a good deal. The insulated mugs sit at home unused now, but we sure enjoyed the hot drinks while on our veranda at the time.
On the way back we did spot a much smaller vessel by the name of the Wilderness Explorer coming out the Margerie Glacier at 1pm we think. The Tarr Inlet to Margerie Glacier is big enough to allow two ships to pass each other while there. It gives you a good example of the size of the glaciers and mountains. Did we see any calving today? No, we did not making the times we have heard and seen this activity more special.
Passing by Gloomy Knob again at 1:30pm, we did see a few more of the mountain goats. By now the rain had started and it was noticeably colder. Time to deliver a few facts about Glacier Bay. The park consists of 3.3 million acres….too hard to envision. Just a mere 250 years ago, there was no bay, just a river of ice for 100 miles long. Only a dozen or so glaciers exist now. Today we could experience breathing the cool ice age air, the best way to imagine how things used to be here. There was a drawing of a Tlingit village in 1680 situated at the mouth of what used to be a broad valley. By the time John Muir arrived in 1879, the glacier had already retreated 40 miles. These days the bay extends 65 miles north to the Canada/ US border at the Tarr Inlet, with the park and preserve a 25 million acre World Heritage Site designated by UNESCO.
For those visitors that come to hike or kayak or explore on foot, they need to be prepared for hypothermia even in summer months. Recommended are rain gear, hat, gloves, and waterproof shoes or boots. Even while viewing from our veranda, we could feel the effects of the cold temperatures. Not as severe as the viewing in Antarctica, but cold nether the less. In addition, brown or grizzly and black bears and moose roam the park. Other common wildlife are nesting birds, harbor seals, Stellar sea lions, mountain goats, sea otters, eagles, and humpback whales. Occasionally orcas might be seen near the entrance to the bay.
The ship took a detour through Whidbey Passage passing both Drake and Willoughby Islands. We missed seeing the tiny Marble Islands which always has several Stellar sea lions laying on the rocky shores. Perhaps due to the rain that began to fall, we bypassed those islands.
It was time for lunch, but we knew not to even attempt going to the Lido since we knew from the last to visits here, every window seat would be occupied. Many guests tend to camp at these tables for the day, mostly to stay out of the cold temperatures. In addition, we have seen a lot of people take pillows and blankets to the Crow's Nest and take over the big comfortable chairs for the day. So our lunch was from room service with a bowl of very good chicken noodle soup with angel hair pasta for the noodles and two pulled pork sandwiches.
The park rangers would be picked up by 3:45pm and taken back to Bartlett Cove where the Park Headquarters is located. Judging by their enthusiastic narration, it seems that they really enjoy their jobs. And because of that, we really appreciate seeing all that Glacier Bay has to offer….even if we have been here numerous times, we learn and see something new every time. Ranger Deidra delivered a farewell to all before the group climbed down that ladder to their waiting boat.
A few days ago, we had received an invitation for a dining room dinner with hotel manager Leonie, guest relation Cynthia, and April, our Mainer rep. It was a farewell dinner since all three of these key people will be leaving the ship in San Diego. However, due to the fact one of us has come down with a cold, we had to cancel. No sense sharing that with the officers before their departure home.
At 5pm, Captain Smit came on with his talk and warned of strong winds that may cause listing of the ship later tonight. Ketchikan reported possibly having 60 mph winds tomorrow that may die down before our 11am docking time (hopefully). Heavy rain was back in the forecast but perhaps clearing in the afternoon. The Coral Princess and the Seabourn Quest are also due to dock in Ketchikan, but with those high winds, we doubt that will be possible. Time will tell….. Lastly, the Captain said there may be some whale sightings this evening, but we did not see any.
Dinner was casual attire and came with a splash of orange for Dutch night. We ordered the Dutch pea soup we had missed this morning and it sure was good….nice and hot. One of us had the Westland salad, and the other a seafood cocktail. Both of us ordered the Hodge Podge Klapstuck or braised beef brisket with carrots, potatoes, onions and butter gravy. Tasty and tender, we enjoyed it. The Lindt chocolate tulip was dessert for one of us, while watermelon was good too. The entertainer this evening was Norberto Jansenson, a mentalist and storyteller who comes from Argentina. His show was the same time as the Orange Party in the Crow's Nest which involved line dancing and drinking we assume. It would be a good way to get the most out of the Have-It-All package that has two days and nights to go.
Will Ketchikan be our port of call for tomorrow? As we said, time will tell……..
Bill & Mary Ann
