If it's Tuesday, then today's port should be Raiatea in the Leeward Islands. There are about 12,250 residents and the main village is Uturoa. It serves as the administrative capital of French Polynesia. To drive the island's waterline road, it is 61 miles around. The highest point is Tefatoaiti at 3336 feet in elevation. And we have arrived on a day of sun and partly cloudy skies with a temperature of 81 degrees F. The humidity is 76% and the winds were blowing at 19.3 mph. The island is described as having romantic motus, fishy lagoons, high mountains, and a unique navigable river, Faaroa, the only one in French Polynesia. The biggest marae, a sacred area, at Taputapuatea became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017.
The island of Raiatea is considered a nautical base for the yachties with snorkeling, kayaking, fishing and kite surfing. And you get two-for-one here with the neighboring island of Tahaa located 15.5 miles away. They share a huge lagoon with Raiatea. Tahaa has a population of 5,235 residents on an island with a perimeter of 67 kilometers or 42 miles. The highest point is Mt. Ohiri at 598 meters or 1961 feet high. Besides having deep bays that are sheltered from the trade winds, Tahaa also is a haven for sailing boats. There are no beaches, but there are a number of motus with sandy beaches in their lagoons. The coral gardens are said to be outstanding. Pearl farms can be found here as well as the cultivation of the vanilla bean vines. A certain type of rum has been produced from special sugar cane and has become famous. A ferry runs to this island several times a day, and it is the only way to get there. Once on the island, there is no public transportation. You can rent a car, ebike, or a scooter. And there is no airport. The one at Raiatea takes care of both islands.
Before we ventured out, one of us decided to try the wifi from our veranda. Today the ship had docked portside…perfect for us. I was able to connect to the village's free wifi and download updates and games that had expired. Easy, now I will not have to pack it ashore. It did not have enough time to do a complete job, but the ship would not leave until after 4:30pm, and there would be more time to do it later.
There were some tours here today, starting with the sacred island in Le Truck for 3 ½ hours and $90. One was priced at $110 for 3 hours up the Faaroa River and Motu beach. You could kayak the Faaroa River for 3 ½ hours and $120. The highlights for 3 ½ hours for $130 was next then there were two priced at $140 for 3 ½ hours with land and sea of Tahaa . The second tour was a catamaran ride around Tahaa for 3 ½ hours. A reef discovery for 3 hours was also $140. The Anapa pearl farm and snorkeling was 3 hours for $150, while the last three were $170 for Raiatea culture, a vanilla bean tour and a motu picnic for 3 ½ hours. A coral garden drift snorkel ran 3 ½ hours for $170.
There was a warning about possible showers, so we thought about packing umbrellas and did just in case. We left about the same time another crew drill took place and headed up the road a piece. We passed the marina where the annual famous outrigger canoe race takes place every year. It is called Hawaiki Nui Va'a. We just missed it because it was held at the end of October 2025.
Further up this road, we passed by the nice church in the center divider that is never opened too. Sure resembles the same church we see in Papeete. We got as far as the staging area for the canoe race and found some empty concrete benches to relax for a while. There is a boat ramp there, a gigantic tent where the canoe race activities take place, and a chiseled out swimming pool for everyone to use. Not exactly a pool like we know it, but a big section of a pier with ladders to use to get in and out. There happened to be a group of islanders having a picnic at one of the larger tables under shade trees. We sat on the end benches watching the activity with some kids in the water. It was a Tuesday, so we assumed it was a school day and some of the young boys were playing hookey. Or it may have been their lunch time and they were cooling off in the water.
We passed by a couple from the ship that had asked us about restaurants up this way. We shared a story with them about walking to the airport one time to find a pizzeria that turned out to be closed until 5pm. Nope there was nothing up this way….everything was back in the village. Then they told us a story of being on a tour here to a motu where they went snorkeling off of a small boat. What they had not been told was that the area was full of sea urchins they had to avoid while walking around the big boulders in the reef. Never thought of that as we never did swim or snorkel here. Nor will we in the future. We did a drift snorkel in Tahaa….much better.
That was as far as we wished to go. Heading back, we stopped and checked out the benches on the way back. Once in the village, we went to the center food and craft market where island jewelry and clothing was being sold. The lower level sold produce and some flower bouquets. Sandwiches on baguettes could be bought as well as ice cream. We bypassed the steep stairs to the second level, because it was more of the same things as down and across from this market. Tables of island jewelry and some clothing were displayed under a few tents. Nothing was inexpensive here.
Across from the where the ship docks, there are a series of palapas that have seen their better days. Vendors sell souvenirs out of these tents, but they are so storm damaged, all of the roofs must leak or have blown away. Now the souvenirs were set up under a huge tent for all to see and possibly buy. Once again, we felt their prices were high and would not insult them by trying to bargain. Truthfully, there was nothing needed here except a lot of photos.
We found our way to La Raie Gate, a small but comfortable restaurant across from the ship. They had few choices of appetizers, sandwiches, and beverages. The usual pizza they served was reduced to a personal thin crust size, which was still about 10 inches. We ordered one for each of us, basic Margherita, and two Hinano draft beers in 33 cl cups. Getting a credit card to work here has always been a problem. They will not accept Am Ex, but will take Master Card or Visa. Only the Visa worked. Or Pacific French Francs. You pay first, then they deliver your food and drinks.
It was so warm and humid, the beers went down fast. Needing refills, one of us went to the counter to order more along with a dessert. Then a funny thing happened. While paying for the second round of beer, the waitress brought another pizza to the table. I immediately thought it was a mistake and was for another customer. No, she said it was complimentary with a very French accent. Did I hear right? Returning with the beers and the dessert of ice cream sundaes, she repeated it was on them. Guess they could see we really liked pizza, so we said Merci beaucoup to all before going back onboard the ship. They happily waved for a photo that was taken by us.
We were back in our room by 2;30pm with plenty of time to download photos of the day. With these ports coming every day, it is really hard to keep up to date with everything.
By 4:30pm, the Captain came on and said everyone was onboard, and we would leave for scenic cruising of the Tahaa coastline and reef. This time the port lecturer narrated as we sailed near to Tahaa and eventually out of the reef opening. We have 132 nautical miles to reach Moorea tomorrow morning. We could have done this sailing hitting the islands that are closer together, but they chose to Ping-Pong around instead, giving us some sailing time during the evening hours. It was impressive sailing between the markers and the high surf at the reef's opening. The Captain added that there would be a fuller than normal moon for the next two nights. Perhaps called Super Moon? He was correct as we saw it well before the sun went down. In fact, it could have been mistaken for the sun. Later in the evening, it rose high in the sky and reflected beautifully on the ocean waters.
Dinner for us was in the Pinnacle Grill's pop-up dinner of Tamarind. The last time we had this Thai meal was while on the Nieuw Statendam back in 2022. Arsa convinced us to try it again as an alternate for the regular Pinnacle dinner. And we were so glad we did. The staff had decorated the room with more Indonesian type fabrics, fans, and windchimes, but the effect was the same. The staff was decked out in their Indonesian outfits. Brought a smile to our faces for sure. Even though the menu had been amended to this venue, we found most everything we liked.
Starters were a pork wrapped dish with marinated cucumber slices, and the other was tempura shrimp with a special red sauce. Shrimp crackers were served with three types of dips of sambal….some spicy and hotter than others. The second starter was the Thai beef salad, large enough to be a main course. Quite good. Our mains were the same – wasabi-crusted filet mignon with asparagus spears, and onion rings. One of us ordered the egg rice side dish with a small bowl of soy sauce. Totally delicious. There was a tiny bit of room for dessert which was one tapioca glass with pineapple and the other was a trio of sorbets. Refreshing, and not too heavy. The staff was all too happy to see us for dinner for a change and glad we enjoyed it so much.
There was entertainment tonight with CJ Finley and his puppet act. With dinnertime at 8pm, there was no way we could see it. We were too busy savoring our hearty meals. A Wajang movie was The Brutalist.
Tonight we need to rest up for Moorea, another favorite stop for us.
Bill & Mary Ann
