Vietnam is a country of sharp contrasts where we will spend three days touring different areas. One of them is the capital, Hanoi, a first time visit for us. The country has a population of 95.3 million people that speak Vietnamese and some English. We say sharp contrasts because the Volendam had entered the Thi Vai River located near Vung Tau on the lower south coast of the country. The scenery is far from breathtaking . That description will be appropriate in Halong Bay, we understand from friends that have been there in the past. This river area we have entered is for the port of Phu My (pronounced foo me) or the substituted dock of Phuoc An Port due to commercial ship congestion. Because it is located 7 miles from Phu My, a shuttle service will be provided to take the guests to a small downtown area 15 miles away. Now that has never happened before. And since there is no walking allowed in this port, another shuttle will take independent guests to the port gate. The ship's tours will go from the new port without any changes.
The river area is heavily industrial for miles and miles. This country has come into its own after 40 years of conflict and war…….a war we grew up with as young teenagers. Never in a million years back then, did we know that one day we would be visiting Vietnam as tourists.
Vietnam has beaches, spas, resorts, hotels, ancient cities, caves, as well as Asia's greatest culinary secret – wonderful food. A typical balanced meal could be sweet and sour, crunchy and silky, fried or steamed and always with soup and salad. Hold the fish head soup for both of us, please. Pho noodles in a soup is far more appealing. Places we have toured more than once are Saigon (Ho Chi Minh), Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hue, and soon Halong Bay for Hanoi, a first time visit for us. However, we are not sure we are up for a long tour there.
Speaking of tours, there were ten of them. The short hour tours were 3.5 and 4 hours with a ride to Ba Ria or a visit to Vung Tau at $50 and $60. There was a transfer to Saigon for $60 as well. A visit to Chu Chi Tunnels was 10 hours and $120 with lunch. In the old days, they used to take the guests into a real tunnel (talk about claustrophobia) , but now they have a sample tunnel we learned. Three various excursions in Ho Chi Minh were from 8.5 to 9 hours, lunch included with prices from $150 to $200. A boat ride in the Mekong Delta was 9.5 hours and $160. One excursion our friends took was different because they went to a Saigon marketplace where they learned about the local veggies, fruits, and meats. Then they went to a culinary school where the food was prepared by the guests and turned out to be their lunch. It was 7 hours and set them back $150 and well worth the experience.
Besides the temperature of 84 degrees, humidity at 63% and the winds 11mph, the very first thing we found out was that our TV feed was blocked. No BBC, CNN, or Fox….only in- house pre-recorded programs. Inquiring at the front desk, we were told the technicians were working on it. Then we remembered it was the very same scenario last year. There was no problem with our satellite feed because we learned that the local government did not allow it. We checked our report from last year, and it was the same story. It would be restored once we left the river after dinnertime.
Breakfast was not well attended because many guests had taken tours. We left the ship by 10am bringing our room key and the special landing cards that had been printed for us onboard. There was a Vietnamese guard at the gate checking each and every card. Some vendors were already setting up tables of souvenirs to sell to everyone. Most of it was still covered up due to the windy conditions on the pier. And just as they promised, there were shuttles buses to take us to Phu My City, a 15-mile drive from this river port. For those folks that had independent tours, a shuttle was provided for them back to the Phu My dock where they could connect with their tour operators. This is the first time that HAL provided a shuttle here, because we had no idea there was a big city so close, even though it was 99% industrial.
The scenic ride took us on good highways with tolls that were automated. Eventually, we reached the outskirts of Phu My City which was really congested with big rigs, buses, cars, and hundreds of motorcycles. With several long stop lights in downtown, it took a good 45 minutes to reach our destination which was Go Mart. It was more like a mini-mall with the lower level consisting of a large supermarket….something like a Target. This was the most interesting store there.
Doing our research on the ship, their currency of Vietnam Dong was 26,337 to one US dollar. Holy moly…. That is going to take some calculating. Several years ago, we were warned not to buy any local currency, since some money changers were not always honest. You may think you are buying legitimate currency, and find out it is counterfeit when you went to spend it. Or you might purchase something with US dollars, and the vendor gives you change back in Dong. Then the Dong turns out to be no good. So for that reason, most everyone we know uses credit cards in the cities and hope for the best. There is no problem back on the pier since the vendors are more than happy to take the US dollars….in a heartbeat.
We walked through the entire market taking photos like "tourists". The supermarket was just as nice as the ones we have at home with recognizable products with Vietnamese names. Much of the fish, chicken, and meat products were frozen. We saw frozen crabs, lobsters, all types of fish and fish balls. Then we came upon a bin of frozen snails – big ones with heavy shells. They were sold by the kilo (2.2 pounds). Maybe they use them in soups. We didn't ask. Then we located the produce section with very nice-looking fruit and veggies. One kilo of apples were 50,000 Dong ($2.28 US), and larger size apples were 65,000 Dong or $2.47 US. Frozen chickens were 50,000 Dong or $1.90. No inflation on food here. On our way out, we spotted a fast food place similar to Burger King. Their meal of a burger, fries and a soda was 58,000 Dong or $2.20. A plate of spaghetti with a soda was 39,000 Dong or $1.50. Other restaurants here were KFC and Pizza Hut as well as several small tea cafes and ice cream shops. The second level of this mall had exercise places and some types of entertainment. Located very neat here were towers of apartments where we think most of the port workers and their families live.
Just as we decided to head for the bus, friends Greg, Heo, Ginny and Rich came along. Ginny had even found some bargains in the clothing section of the supermarket. All of us were ready to leave, when a group of little girls and one boy can down the stairs with their moms or caretakers. They were SO cute and made a big deal over all of us. The oldest may have been 8 or 9 years old, and the rest younger. Each and every one of them insisted on "high-fiving" all of us, leaving them squealing with delight. Kind of made our day too.
On the ride back, we got more photos of what we did not get on the way here. Much of it was the same for the 30 minute ride back. Back on the pier, we did check out the treasures that were being sold on the tables under the tents. In fact, we had a hard time squeezing in to see anything there were so many guests and crew buying stuff. The prices were right and the vendors were happy to bargain. It's a game with them. We did find one Burberry shawl in peach colors, which will replace the red one I lost while on the windy deck of the Zuiderdam outside of Tokyo. The wool scarf was tied around my neck, but when the wind caught it, the scarf went flying high and ended in the sea way behind the ship's wake. Never saw that coming….. We did look through the piles of rather decent t-shirts, but their sizing is way off. An XXL t-shirt might fit someone small. The clue is to look at the neck. Most all of the shirts had very small neck openings, something you do not notice until you get home. We were back on the ship by 1pm, and happy to cool off in our room with a room service lunch.
At 5pm, Captain Frank gave his talk saying we would be departing the port by 6pm. All of the guests had returned early, but he had to wait for the pilot and dock workers to drop the lines. We have 500 nautical miles to go to reach Da Nang in two days at a speed of 14 knots. The sailing out of the river took about 2 hours at a slow rate of speed due to the number of large commercial ships and the dozens of small fishing boats that seemed to ignore the fact we were there. Captain Frank said he had to zigzag to avoid hitting them. And he blew the ship's horn more than a few times.
The sun set by the time we went to dinner where we had nice appetizers. One was egg drop chicken soup and the other was a salad. Mains were parmesan-coated veal with a pile of risotto hidden underneath the meat. We both agreed that this entrée was enough for four of us, because we could not finish it all. Our waiter is always worried if we do not clean the plates, but we reassured him that it was excellent, just too much.
The entertainer this evening was a vocalist named Matthew Croke, who we heard was very good with his music of a journey through a decade. With the heat and humidity of the day, we were happy to turn in for a restful night. Looking forward to at least one day at sea before the next port of Da Nang.
Bill & Mary Ann