Our first day in Hong Kong could not have begun more screwy than it did. Like in what could go wrong, did go wrong. First of all, the sail into this harbor was supposed to commence at 7am, with a scenic sail in commentary by Barbara H, our port lecturer. By the time we turned on our room TV, her talk was about over, and we were close to docking. Checking the channel that has the camera on the bow, we noticed that it was raining heavily. There was not one person outside watching this epic sail in. In fact from early dawn until about noon, it was 100% rain. Guess we missed the Hong Kong rolls too. Darn……
Speaking of docking, instead of the best spot we have always enjoyed at Ocean Terminal, we are now docked at Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, the old airport. It is located far from the massive shopping mall we know so well. So instead of being able to navigate our way to downtown, we had to take a free shuttle for a long ride to the Peninsula Hotel. That part was fine, since taking a taxi would have been pricey for sure.
Now, this is where more things went wrong. The ship’s clearance process was scheduled to take one hour to complete from the 8am arrival time. However, one public announcement after another came saying that it was delayed. And please do not congregate in the gangway area….or you would be removed. This went on for two hours and 10 minutes before the passengers were finally released. Shore excursions had several tours beginning at 8:30am, and obviously they were not going to leave on time. The one that may have had a problem was the overnight in mainland China, as they were supposed to take a train to get there. Another overnight excursion was to Macau, and with only a few ferries running there, they surely missed the timing on that one. If any folks had independent tours, then they would have been out of luck this morning.
As if that wasn’t bad enough, the ship’s water to all of the cabins and public restrooms had been turned off at 9am. And with the delay of over two hours to get off, we are sure there were many unhappy campers among the bunch. Maybe that is why, when the gangway was open to disembark, we saw people literally running off. Probably in a hurry to find restrooms in the terminal. Normally, these water shutdowns occur during the evenings, well after midnight. Why today during 9am to noon, we cannot figure out.
The airport terminal is one long stretch to navigate. First there is the Disneyland-like switchback gangway attached to the ship. Following signs, we went down escalators, down hallways, and eventually ended up going through two security halls. More escalators found us exiting into the parking garage, where we had another long walk to wait for the bus. Some of our friends had left the long line, and decided to try for a taxi to town. Since we are here overnight, we were not in any hurry. Sometimes you have to realize what you cannot change, and deal with it. Takes lots of patience for sure.
Two buses filled quickly, and the ride should have taken 30 minutes or less. Not so today. Even though we left the terminal at 11am, the bus was caught in traffic, and did not arrive to the Peninsula Hotel until 11:45am. Then due to congestion around the hotel, the driver was not allowed to let us off in the street. He had to go around the corner twice, before he could park at the curb. We were finally on our way walking by noon. And still in the rain, although it had let up a lot by then.
We navigated our way to the Ocean Terminal and the huge shopping mall we know so well. It is Harbour City with over 450 shops. Mostly, we wanted to see what ships were docked there today. One of the ships was the Super Star Virgo, the same one we were docked across from in Manila. The other ship was the Amadea, owned by Phoenix Reisen. Launched in 2006 (a rebuild from another name), this 28,856 gross ton vessel holds only 594 passengers. Mostly German-speaking we read. It was described as a stylish, spacious ship with fine food and good service. Not a gambling ship, we still wonder why the Amsterdam could not have used this spot? Perhaps we don’t pay enough? Who knows…..
Hong Kong has a population of 7,055,100 people (2012), who speak mostly Cantonese, although many speak English as well. These people live in an area of only 426 square miles, so it is no wonder that no matter where you go, it is incredibly crowded. But that is the nature of any large city.
We made our way to the Star Ferry area, and the nearby Victorian Clock Tower, built in 1915. It marks the end of the Kowloon Canton Railway Station. This whole area still appeared to be under construction. Since we wanted to start going up Nathan Road, we figured we could check out the Avenue of the Stars tomorrow.
The easiest way for us to get from here to the road that goes uphill, was to walk the mall, which seemed to extend for a mile. Perhaps, not quite that far, but it always seems like it is. At the end, we exited the building via 2 sets of escalators, and proceeded up towards Kowloon Park. This is another favorite place to visit, but we would save that for tomorrow too.
Even though the temperature was under 60 degrees, we kept plenty warm walking uphill towards the Flower and Bird Markets. We have no idea how afar it is mile-wise, but we do know it takes over an hour. Crossing streets is not easy at some points, because you have to go up escalators across the road, then down 4 flights of steps on the other side.
Did we mention that today was International Women’s Day? Good time for sales at the flower market. Most all of the potted plants and bouquets were on the sidewalks, and sure made for colorful photos. Last month, Barb had brought us a slip of a cactus, and we put it in water on the windowsill. It has developed some nice roots, so we thought it might be fun to find a potted plant, so we can add it to the soil. So we picked up an anthrium with red blossoms, as we know they are hardy. At least this year, we will have a mini-garden.
Right next to the Flower Market is the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden. Seventy bird stalls are provided in this garden setting for the bird traders and buyers that live here in Hong Kong. There are side courtyards with about 50 trees planted near the bird stalls. It is a common practice of bird owners to bring their caged birds here for a couple of reasons. One is sharing info with each other, and the most important factor is that their young songbirds can learn to sing. Every type of bird feed is sold here, as well as live crickets for the larger birds. One vendor even let us hold a young lorikeet, as he had a chain on his leg. Then the vendor offered his blue and yellow macaw to hold, but we declined. That gorgeous bird had a very large and scary beak. One that could sever a finger if he chose to do so. Taking a lot of photos, we said thanks and moved on. The decorative bird cages they sell here are always tempting to buy. But we already have a few at home….don’t need more.
Heading back downhill, we strolled through the Ladies Market for several blocks. They sell mostly clothing and household items here, but we did manage to find one of the folded cloth sacks that are so useful for shopping. They never wear out, and fit in your pocket. This time we found a larger one for 30HK$, the equivalent of $3.85 USD. Good deal.
It was starting to get darker by now, and also starting to drizzle lightly. It has been our experience that sudden thunder storms can occur at any given moment. Not wanting to get caught in that possible deluge, we continued going back. It was already 4pm, and we thought we would check the Night Market at Jordan Road to see what was opened. Even though they advertise they open at 7pm, we know from past trips, that the stalls are set up around 4:30pm. About half of the vendors were ready with their treasures to sell. We did locate two small “sort of” Izzy Miyake clutches at a very decent price. Can never have enough purses, right? Again, the price was right.
Back at the mall at Ocean Terminal, we decided to go to BLT Burger, and get a couple of ice cold beers. A bit late for lunch, we thought a small order of nachos would be fine. So we ordered one appetizer, and it was a larger mound of chips, BBQ brisket, tons of cheese, sliced jalapenos, and plenty of sour cream. They were the best we have eaten in a long time. So much for keeping it light. Being able to relax for an hour was wonderful too. We have to admit, it was pricey, since the pint beers were over $10 USD each.
Finally back at the bus stop, we boarded the waiting coach and the ride back was only 20 minutes. Surrounded by many cruise buddies, we shared our adventures of the day. Love doing that, since we all did something different. Now the walk through the terminal seemed to take forever, but we did get the xray check out of the way in the terminal, not the ship. Sure was good to get home, as it had been one long day for us.
Dinner time came within an hour, and we did not know for sure who was coming. No one had said they were not coming tonight, so when two couples came over to the table to ask to dine with us, we said probably no, because our table is really a “fixed” table. We are not at liberty to give our tablemate’s seats away. Whether they were insulted or not, we shall have to make that clear with the staff. They were just as happy to share a table for four at the window, as there were many empty tables available.
We both ordered the sweet and sour chicken with rice. Excellent as always. A local Chinese Cultural Show was planned at 9:30pm, so finishing dinner before that was perfect. It featured Chinese music, a spectacular dragon and Chinese dance, and the mysterious Sichuan face-changing show. That one always has us wondering “how did they do that?” It’s always a crowd-pleaser, no matter how many times we have seen it.
Hope to get some quality sleep tonight, because tomorrow will be another great day in this marvelous city. And we plan to walk until we drop once again.
Bill & Mary Ann
Deliveries waiting to be loaded
Kai Tak Cruise Terminal (old airport)
Hong Kong, but not the view we usually see
Looking up towards Victoria Harbour
Cruise ship at anchor – could be a gambling ship
The colors are perfect in this dreary weather
We were the only ship docked here
On our way towards the waiting complimentary shuttle buses
Taking the underpass to cross a busy street
1881 Heritage, an international shopping mall
Fashion brands and fine dining
The Amadea – hey, they are in “our” spot
The way to the Star Ferry service
Victoria Clock Tower – the terminus of the Kowloon-Canton Railway Station
Hope to see this skyline in the evening
There are many tailors in this area
Entrance to Harbour City on the water side
Well over 450 shops in this mall
The green-tiled ceiling along the way
Familiar copper-colored windows of a hotel
New structure looked like a parking garage
24 carat gold jewelry in Lukfook store window
The wide streets of Nathan Road
One steamed Alaska king crab - $1380HK = $177 USD (7.8HK = $1USD)
Remembering the way to the Flower Market
Every large company exists in HK
Hydrangea – perfect climate for them
Never saw this shade of pastels before – yes, they are real
Several stands in between boutiques