Reunion is an island of 972 square miles, located in the Indian Ocean and is an overseas department of France. The capital is St. Denis, and the population of the island is 798,000 French-speaking people. The island is sheer and lush, and appears to have risen dripping wet from the ocean. Technically, it did, as it is the tip of a massive submerged prehistoric volcano.
French culture dominates every part of daily life here with coffee and croissants in the morning, and many varieties of wine at dinner. The French atmosphere of the island has a tropical twist with traces of Indian, African, and Chinese cultures. As well as Christian churches (mostly Catholic), you will find Hindu temples, a Muslim mosque, and a Chinese temple.
Only four tours were offered through shore excursions today. They ran from 4 ½ hours to 8 ½ hours for $110 to $180. The short hour excursions took guests to the mountainous regions to see the plantations of sugar cane, geraniums, and tamarinds. A visit to a geranium distillery taught folks how the oil is extracted. It takes 1400 pounds of leaves to make one liter of essence. The other tour was quite different, since it went to one of the southern beaches at St. Gilles. The last time we visited here four years ago, it was on a Sunday and most everything in the capital city was closed. So the free shuttle bus brought us here for the day.
The longer tours went to the mountains to see vanilla plantations and villages. Waterfalls can be seen everywhere up at the 6000 foot level. Both tours offered a local lunch. We have been to the top previously, and recalled how cold and foggy it was at that elevation.
The Amsterdam arrived quietly in the harbor around 7am. Now we remembered that there was a very commercial port and dock area with only tents for a terminal. Nothing much had changed since 2014 as far as this pier was concerned. It was still busy as ever, and it did not look like we would be allowed to walk to those tents from the ship. A small shuttle would be available for that ¼ mile walk.
After a dining room breakfast, we waited until 9:30am before we ventured off of the ship. By then, all of the tour groups had boarded their buses. Shuttle buses were waiting for the rest of us to take the 30 minute ride to St. Denis, the capital city. We had been advised that all of the bus drivers may take a 2 hour lunch break, but as far as we know, this may not have occurred. No one had to wait for a bus for two hours. Before we got on the coach, a local gal handed each of us a map of St. Denis. The ship’s map was of La Possession, which was not easily accessible to us anyway.
The scenic ride along the rugged coastline took about 30 minutes. This road follows the bottom of a very steep cliff that was covered with a lot of wire fencing. With so much rain, we could see the deterioration taking the hillsides down. It is a natural occurrence, so eventually the road might be disappearing into the ocean. So the locals have begun building a bridge-like highway over the surf here. We saw the beginnings of it four years ago. Much of it is done, but they still have a long way to go to complete it.
Following our maps, we navigated our way uphill on Avenue de la Victoire. Besides many wooden buildings, original structures from the 1800’s are still there. Most have been kept in the original shape, but house other businesses now. We went inside one of the Cathedrals (St. Sauveur), past the Monument aux morts, then turned left on a main pedestrian avenue, Rue Marechal L’erclerc. This avenue was lined with cafes, shops, boutiques, a mosque, and a Hindu temple towards the end of the six or seven block street.
One of us was looking for a souvenir with the white-winged tropicbird on it. Finding just the right item in a small fabric shop, we decided to come on the way back to purchase it. The store keeper was busy helping local customers. Besides, we wanted to compare shop for the next six blocks, as we like to do. We did get a lot of photos of the colorful fruit stands, selling the healthy items fresh to all. Prices were steep in most all of these boutiques from what we saw. Being French, the stores seem to sell some quality clothing. The one thing we did notice was that most of the vendors here were either Indian or Arab.
The one thing we did not see up here were small cafes or bars. On the way back, we did go into a McDonald’s for a pit stop. It was noon by now, and the place was filling with customers. Most of them from the ship, who were searching for free internet. We did not bother lugging the computer off today.
We figured that the restaurants might be situated on the water, and we were correct. At the bus stop, we could not see that they wrapped around the corner. After walking some of the sea wall, we found a suitable café with outside seating, although covered from possible rain. Even with a 90% chance of rain today, it looked like it would stay up in the mountains. The name of the café was L”Abradeli’s Brasserie where we ordered large ½ liter Leffe draft beers in chilled mugs. Sharing a salad with ham with a generous bowl of crispy, hot French fries, the meal was even better with three sourdough rolls. Vanilla ice cream with that intense flavor from local vanilla bean paste was a nice way to finish the meal. A resident gold cat insisted on joining us, even jumping on one of our laps to beg some tidbits of ham. Before we left, we did save a few pieces to keep her happy. In the meantime, another diner was sharing her fish entrée with her at a nearby table.
Having relaxed for 1 ½ hours, it was time to move on. That’s when a funny thing happened, when we found that right behind this café was a larger restaurant called Vapiano, and they served pizza. If we come back, we will remember to try this place for our Margherita pizza.
We had to wait 10 minutes for the next bus, where we found several of our ship buddies and crew members were waiting under the shade of the trees. All aboard was 5:30pm, so no one was willing to chance missing the ride back. Barbara H had mentioned that this ride could cost up to 35 to 40 euro if a taxi had to be used. That computes to $50 USD.
The ride back provided unexpected vistas of waterfalls that appeared from the rainfall from the mountains. These powerful falls must be responsible for the erosion we noticed as we rode here earlier. One of the waterfalls was so strong, it turned the sea waters brown quite a ways out to ocean.
We cooled our heels in our room working on photos of course. A special event was planned for the first Mariner Appreciation Days celebration. To thank us for sailing with HAL, a complimentary sail away party was held in the Lido Pool area. Beginning at 5pm, it soon became impassable as the guests helped themselves to the glasses of wine and specialty beverages set up on side tables. Music from the Station Band livened up the place. Watching from deck nine, we got some good photos of the conga line that formed with guests and crew members. Barbara H joined us, since she said her “conga” line days were best left back years ago.
Instead of fighting the crowd to get a drink, we went to the Seaview Bar, like we normally do, to get complimentary sodas. However, we were told that it was not available there. We would have to fight the crowd in the Lido Pool only, since all of the inventory was coming from there. Really…..only 2 sodas? Not wine, beer or anything else? Nope.
All was not lost, when friends Bill & Leta joined us until well after sunset. Knowing us as they do, they knew we would be back here instead of the crowded melee 1 ½ hour drink fest. They remarked at the lack of canapes offered there. In the past, tables of very lovely treats were there for the taking. But now with the new regulations, none of that food can be served that way.
The actual sail away was delayed due to a medical disembark. Must have been a last minute event.
By 7pm, we passed by the Lido dinner set-up, and found this venue was more crowded than ever. So we knew that by 8pm, the dining room would be almost empty of guests. On our way back to our room, we stopped to listen to the band in the Ocean Bar. We were joined by Gerald B and his assistant Pamela. Seems like just yesterday we were having dinner together in Ft. Lauderdale, and here we are almost three months later and ¾ done with this world cruise.
Susie, Woody, and Barb arrived, pulling chairs up around the railing. We visited for the remainder of the time before dinner, then we left. We all agreed we needed to make one day a week to dine together…….just the five of us. That would be just fine with us.
Dinner went by quickly as most all of us were tired from a full day of Reunion. Looking forward to three days at sea as we sail towards Mozambique and the African continent.
Cul’Arika was the entertainment for tonight. A South African foursome, they performed African music for all. The best news was that the clocks went back one hour.
Bill & Mary Ann
Sunrise at 6:24am
Arriving to the island of Reunion
Start of a warm day
Sure doesn’t look like rain
Blue skies in the morning
Gare Maritime Port of Reunion
Room for one cruise ship
Parking lot for a busy pier
Docked well before 8am
A waiting ambulance is never a good sign
Buses for tours
