Today’s port of call, and the last one in the African area was in Cape Verde. The city of Praia, the capital, located on the island of Santiago, was our destination. It has been the capital of this archipelago since 1777, established as the first Portuguese settlement. Built by save labor, it was an important trading post on the way from West Africa to the Americas. A visit from the scientist Charles Darwin and pirate attacks have added to the city’s colorful past.
The total population of all of the islands is 430,000 (2012) with the locals speaking Portuguese, Crioulo, and also English. This archipelago is 500 kilometers or 311 miles off the coast of West Africa. They are full of active volcanoes, canyons, desert plains, and beaches with clean Atlantic breezes and Saharan trade winds.
A 100 year drought in the late 1700’s wiped out most of the population. Eventually, fishing and agriculture re-developed, and the people thrived once again. The population in Praia is about 120,000 these days, and many work in the government and education areas. There is shopping, restaurants, and night life, but most of all….music.
The best time to visit is October to August.
Portuguese and African influences shows up in the food. Extreme dry conditions on these islands have led to some creative ways to grow peppers, corn, beans, sweet potatoes, manioc, bananas, and cassavas. What do they like to eat here? Cachupa is a stew of beans and corn with fish or meat. And their favorite drinks are Ceris Beer or grogue, a sugarcane spirit. Even white and red wines are bottled here.
A random fact is Cape Verde has the highest adult literacy for a West African country, and the life expectancy is 71.1 years old.
Today there were free shuttles that took us to town. Or there were ship tours offered from 4 to 8 hours. They cost from $55 to $120, reasonable, considering what the previous ports had to offer. There were city tours that were short, and the same short tours combined with a trip to the mountain villages with lunch. Since we have been here four years ago, we chose the shuttle to town.
The ride went uphill to the plateau where the main shopping district was located. Still retaining the feel of the colonial days, we did see the main plaza, the church, a museum or two, and the main central market. The produce and fish market was the best. Totally operated by the local women, this old market, almost 100 years old, housed tables full of fresh veggies and fruit. One side had a small corner where fresh fish was being sold. The gals seemed a little confused that one of us chose to take photos of fish, but we love doing this, as it adds interest to the culture of the area. One young lady asked our first names, just being friendly, we guess. Nice to know she spoke English, we asked her name, which was Carla. Since we were not exactly sure where we were located according the ship’s map, she giggled and showed us the street we were on. She also wanted to know if we wanted to buy some fish. Not today was our answer. Thanking her, we continued onward. By the way, their produce was beautiful……colorful, full-size and clean. So much different from what we saw in the last three ports in West Africa.
There were a few very small hotels, outdoor cafes, and minimal souvenir tents with little to offer. Certainly, we could not find a place we cared to eat lunch or even get a beer. The closest we found to be a good spot for beer was at a music concert set-up, where a local 6 piece band was playing some really good modern Cape Verde music. It was loud, and did attract a good size crowd. Outdoor tables were set up near a bar, and many passengers from the ship were attempting to get internet. Not sure if they were successful.
Walking towards the end of this plateau, we found the Palace of the President, which dated back to colonial days. It was the home of the island’s former governors. Next to this building was the Jaime Mota Barracks, dating back to 1826….one of the oldest buildings in town. Finally, we passed by Our Lady of Grace Cathedral, built in 1900. Having seen everything up here, we headed back to the shuttle stop and squeezed into the mini-van for the cozy ride back to the ship. As we drove down the street, we passed Barb and Susie, who had gone to find lunch, wine, and internet. Obviously, they struck out, and were on their way back also.
Our hopes of finding a place for pizza and beer had been dashed. We assumed that we could find a lunch spot here, like we did in Mindelo four years ago, but nothing here was close to it.
We made it to the dining room in time for lunch. So did Barb, who joined us. As always, we had a fine time, and the price was right. It was nice enough outside to have gone to the pool, but we stayed inside working on more photos. And thought about the chore facing us with packing. That was as far as we got with that….just thinking about it.
There was a complimentary sail away party held in the Lido Dome starting at 5pm. We went up to deck nine, like we always do, at 4pm, and found every available chair taken already. Just say “free” and they will come…..saving seats, and ready to pounce on the tables that were filled with free punch-like drinks with umbrellas, and artisan-style snacks. Live music played by the Station Band until 6:30pm would keep the folks happy or make them deaf. We always take photos of this melee from deck nine, but seldom attend. Way too crowded, we like to go to the aft deck to get the best pictures while sailing out of the harbor.
We did not attempt to go for the free beer or soda in the Lido pool area, as it was standing room only. But a bit later during the party, three waiters did come out with trays of stuffed jalapeno poppers to pass around the guests back there. One of us has been waiting for this entire cruise for these appetizers. Took them long enough…. Our buddies Bill & Leta were already sitting back here, and joined us as we sailed out of the small harbor by 6pm or so. We stayed visiting with them until the sun went down at 6:48pm. When it did go down, it was chilly outside. Shortly after leaving the harbor, we sailed past Cidade Velha or Old Town. Located about 10 miles out of the town square, this village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many colonial structures remain here, like the Fortress of San Filipe, built by order of Filipe I, the King of Portugal and Spain.
We now have over 2400 miles to sail before we reach Puerto Rico, our final port for this world cruise. We could look forward to deep swells for a few days, but no rain is in the forecast, so that is good.
Dinner found all of us present, including Peter, our new sometimes tablemate. It appeared that just about everyone had attended the complimentary sail away party, and came away happy. Perhaps due to the free drinks? Absolutely. It was a nice way to commence our transit to our next and final call of the 2018 world voyage.
A classically trained cabaret vocalist, Maria Lyn, was the entertainer this evening. Coming from Wales, she is reported to have a thrilling mezzo-soprano voice and sings in four languages. In her spare time, she plays the piano. We have to agree, she put on a great show.
Better news of the day? The clocks went back one more hour.
Bill & Mary Ann
Ship traffic in the Praia harbor, Ilha de Santiago, Cape Verde
Center of town
The Central Marketplace – built in 1924
Ladies selling produce
Tented for treasures – more souvenirs
Prepared for music festival this weekend
