Before beginning today, we have to fill in one of the events from last night that we failed to add to the report. It was the awesome sundowner meeting of all of the guests at the end of the afternoon game drive yesterday.
Our guide, Tinyko, had mentioned we were in for a surprise, and we sort of knew what was coming. Somewhere on a rocky bluff, a campfire had been lit and a BBQ was in progress while we toured the reserve looking for wild game. Once it began to get dark, we headed for the designated spot where snacks of tender steak, impala, and sausages were passed around. We had our choice of beverages, while Joseph, the senior Shangaan driver and guide prepared to entertain us all with calls of the wild. Seated around a crackling hot fire, he imitated the lion, hyena, cheetah, and several other unusual, but distinct sounds of the night. Gave us chills how closely he got the sounds. Then he added that if we hear these calls at night, it won’t be coming from him, as he will be sound asleep in his bed. Wrapping it up, we loaded back on the vehicles, and headed back to camp. Sure was exciting, despite the fact we have done this twice in the past.
Anyway, we began the day by meeting once again at 6am at the lodge. Once in our seats, Tinyko asked what we would like to see today. Of course, Sha and Cynthia requested to find the lions. They felt lucky today, so we agreed that would be great. On the way, we checked the tree where the leopard had her kill yesterday. As she had been feeding all day and night, there was little left of the small dika…only the legs were hanging from the branch. The two hyenas were waiting for those to fall down. They are capable of chewing the bones and all. The female leopard had moved to another tree close by, where the hyenas followed. We hung around here for almost an hour.
It began to drizzle, then rain. Tinyko handed us each a waterproof poncho to use. Good thing we did. Eventually the rain stopped, and went away.
So on the way to the lion search, we came upon at least 25 elephants. This group is called a memory of elephants, and had mostly females, babies, and a couple of 15 year old males. They were literally ripping the low branches of the trees apart, causing a lot of damage. Some of the males were pushing the saplings over to the ground, just because they could. Tinyko said they were being bad boys, and getting ready for the breeding season.
Passing small herds of zebra and kudu, we came close to four rhinos with red billed oxpecker birds dining on insects on their bodies. Gosh these white or wide mouth rhinos were big. If one of them chose to charge at the Land Rover, we would be toast. More than likely, their eye sight is not so good, and they see us in the vehicle as an animal much larger than them. They tolerate all of us taking photos, while they stayed resting in the spot they spent the night.
Hitting the road again, we noticed a trail of large clumps of elephant dung. Our driver swerved around the piles, avoiding rolling through them. He said quite often there are dung beetles under it, rolling the poop into balls. They literally use their back legs to transport the still good fertilizer into holes in the ground. Since they serve a purpose, he does not want to crush them with the vehicle.
We saw a field full of wildebeests before stopping for morning coffee and biscotti cookies. This could be a hard habit to kick, since those homemade cookies are so good. A male giraffe wandered by, not at all spooked by us. The rest of the drive back was for the birds. As in seeing a lot of various species of African birds. There are many predator-type birds here, such as the black shouldered kite and the tawny eagle. They perch on the highest trees, usually the ones that are dead. They have eyesight unmatched by even the big five. If anything moves down here, they will see it.
Passing the herd of impala close to camp, we snapped a few photos of the lilac-breasted rollers as they posed for us. They are among the prettiest birds in South Africa.
So at the end of the morning drive, we did not see the lions. It was reported that they had moved out of the area during the night. Our only hope was that they come back to hunt. Maybe tonight…..
Back at the lodge, we went to breakfast, enjoying a variety of yogurts, fruit, cereal, and a hot entrée. Hard to keep the meals light here. But they are healthy. And one of us would have a chance to walk some of the calories off this morning.
So another hike was in order for one of us, while the other laid low for a couple of hours. It had warmed up once again, and the heat was taking a toll with most of the guests. One of these afternoons, we will have to try out that inviting swimming pool.
Having access to internet here was not a factor the last two times we stayed here. Except for emergencies, there was none. It’s nice to be able to keep the updates coming in, but with the slowness of the speed, it did take up precious time. Not having much time to write the journal has been sort of nice, although we are making up for that now.
Lunch was served at 3pm, and was more than ample. This time they served the best calamari and white fish one of us ever had. A platter of cheese and crackers was served with a mixed salad and a spinach quiche. A plate of melon, grapes, and sliced apples was presented with slices of chocolate cake. The misbehaving monkeys were back to harass the guests, stealing whatever food they could get away with. Now the camp ladies are armed with a paintball rifle with no paint. Just the sight of it makes them scatter. Pretty funny.
We had a new-comer for our afternoon drive. James, the manager’s son, had to go home, and Kenneth, a familiar tracker took his place. We met Kenneth the last time we were here, and found him to be a very nice young fellow. Once again, our ride began with our safari mates Sha and Cynthia. We spotted more birds such as a black headed yellow oriole, a crested red and yellow barbet, a batelur starling, a magpie shrike, and three lilac rollers. Despite the heat, they are active in the midday sun.
There was a lone male rhino that appeared to be limping. Their only chance to get healed is to go into the mud wallows and cover the injury with a coating of slimy dirt. Helps to keep the flies off. If the animal gets sick, he will be prey to the big cats. There is a graveyard nearby with a pile of white bones from the larger animals that have died here. Not sure why they are kept in a pile, but they do provide nourishment for the smaller critters that eat bones for the calcium. Nothing goes to waste.
Crossing over a rocky creek, we saw a monitor lizard sunning itself. These are the smaller version of the Komodo dragons we have seen in Komodo, Indonesia. Continuing on, we passed by kudu, wart hogs, and interesting weaver’s nests. Hanging from the power lines, these nests are woven by small birds that lay their eggs in them. Takes a clever bird or a snake to access the openings.
Elephants and male nyalas crossed the road. The nyala are a strange-looking antelope resembling a horse with a mane and a horse tail. A few waterbuck and a herd of Cape buffalo kept our attention for a while.
Driving towards a large pond below the big lodge of Sabi Sabi, we watched two hippos fighting, then submerging in the murky waters. They are most strange creatures as they roll and warn each other with their massive opened jaws. Their teeth can cause much damage, and these animals are responsible for killing more people in Africa than any other predator. The danger from them comes with their massive bulky bodies, which they use to ram or charge anything they don’t like in their way. Tinyko pointed out that these animals can maintain their weight by being vegetarian. Come to think of it, three out the Big Five are grazers…..they all dine on grasses and trees. They would be the elephant, rhino, and Cape buffalo. The meat-eaters would be the lion and leopard.
A small flock of Egyptian geese were ringing the pond, while a male leopard laid low in the grass. He was about 13 years old according to our driver. Shortly after we drove off, an elephant appeared and the big cat ran off suddenly. It was getting dark, so off we went to find a spot for sundowner cocktails and snacks of chips and nuts. The lions had eluded us once again.
On our way back to camp, Joseph stopped and plucked a green chameleon from a branch to show all of us. It was one of those chameleons with the buggy eyes that rotated 360 degrees. Fun to watch him watching us. This little critter seemed comfortable with being handled. The lights they put on the little guy did not slow him down.
We went directly to our room, and came back for dinner at 8pm. Tonight the dinner was served in the boma area, down a flight of stairs. One long table was set, and we were served whatever beverage we liked, and starters of soup and a delicious shrimp and avocado salad. The buffet table had the usual items of salad, roasted veggies, and potatoes. The last station was the grilled lamb and the sliced roast beef. Chocolate mousse was the dessert, which filled all of us up. Amarula was poured for those of us that are liking the liqueur.
We slept like rocks tonight, but prepared to be up early once again tomorrow morning.
Bill & Mary Ann
Probably finishing the rest of her kill
Vicious hunter
A “memory” of elephants
Oxpecker on this kudu
A white (wide-mouth) rhino
Hornbill