Today was better than stopping in a port, as we transited the Panama Canal. It is located in the country of Panama with a population of 3,361,000 Spanish and English-speaking people. It has been called the “waistline” of South America with a most important connection. That is a “ditch” that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean with a 50 mile channel.
The best time to visit here is mid-December to mid-April, during the dry season. Although, we had no complaints with the weather today, as it was overcast and rainy, but so much cooler than most times we have done this transit.
Yesterday we received a note warning us of the dangers of heat exhaustion while sailing through this most famous shortcut in the world. There is no doubt about it, there are a number of elderly people on this cruise, and they need to take the warnings to heart. But then, heat stroke can affect anyone, especially if one is on medications. Even the use of antihistamines and seasick pills can be culprits to dehydration. It is imperative to drink a lot of fluids, but not necessarily alcoholic ones or coffee. They tend to work the opposite. The best suggestion is to limit exposure to 20 to 30 minutes outside, and use sunscreen. Do we ever follow those suggestions? Well, most of it we do, except we tend to stay outdoors most of the day, ducking inside for a quick lunch with lots to drink.
To help us understand the history, layout, and interesting facts surrounding the Panama Canal, a handy brochure was left in our room last night. One of the finest man-made wonders of the world, the canal’s transit was charted out in our daily newsletter. The best part of the day began at 6am, when the Panama Canal rolls were served in the Crow’s Nest, Atrium, and the Bow. We knew we could also ask for them in the dining room.
Captain Eversen picked up the pilot and the Panama Canal narrator in the wee hours of the morning. The Amsterdam arrived at Gatun Locks at 6:30am. At least that was the plan, as we did not get up that early to know for sure. The majority of cruise vessels have re-positioned through here a few weeks ago. Only two ships would do the transit today, and besides us, the NCL Bliss would share the honors.
Waking up around 7am, we soon realized that we were about to enter the first of three sets of locks to ascend to the lake level. The first lock would raise us 27 feet, while the other two split the difference to equal about 85 feet above sea level. It took 8 to 10 minutes for each lock to fill with water. The gates that close between locks weigh 700 tons each. There are double sets of gates, in case a ship happens to accidently hit the inner gate, the outer gate will keep the lake water from escaping. We were through the three sets of locks before 8am.
In the meantime, the mega-ship, NCL Bliss, was coming up behind us, but needed to utilize the new set of Gatun locks. Lucky them….. We never did see the ship during the day’s transit, until we had exited on the Pacific side.
The narrator we had today was excellent. His English was very good, and he spoke slowly enough for all to understand, especially on the outside speakers. He said early on that there are well over 9000 employees for the Panama Canal, and over 1000 of them are women. Most are Panamanian citizens, but some are also American. He asked what we thought might be the job that women held most while working here? We never would have guessed that the answer would be that they are tug boat captains. Who knew?
Contrary to what many people think, the locomotives, also called mules, are used to center the ships in the locks, not pull them. The ships are always under their own power. The locomotive operators communicate with their directors by ringing the bell in the mule. That is their answer to the directions given to them. No other communications are needed.
At this point, we went to the dining room for breakfast. And upon asking for some Panama Rolls, they brought each of us two wonderful, delicious buns, filled with the creamy mandarin orange slices. So good.
Then we grabbed the cameras, and went out to film what we could during the slow transit of Gatun Lake. The skies were dark with rain clouds, and the humidity was terrible. But it could have been worse, as the sun never did come out during the transit. Last night, we had seen lightning on the horizon all through the evening, and suspected we were in for some heavy rains today. Except for some occasional showers, the sky never did open up fully.
Around 10am, we were passing Gamboa, and the bridge that spans the Chagres River. This is the main body of water that feeds the lake. It is this point that the prison that held Manuel Noriega exists. We could hear noise coming from that prison yard, and soon we saw people waving at the passengers on the ship. Waving back, we soon realized that we waving at the prisoners. Noriega died over a year ago, so he is no longer a threat.
We entered the narrowest part of the canal, which is called the Culebra Cut. It has been widen a few times over the years, but still remains a tight spot. Two ships cannot pass each other, as it is too dangerous. We happened to see two freighters tied on one side as we passed them. When most of the ship traffic going southbound gets through this cut, then the commercial ships will continue on their way.
Now if we heard correctly, two way traffic occurs only during the night, as the canal operates 24 hours a day. Then during the daylight hours, southbound traffic is allowed for half of the day, and northbound goes last. They have it down to a science. And now that the new locks are operational, more traffic can do this transit every day, 365 days a year.
Right before we sailed under the Centennial Bridge, we passed by Contractor’s Hill and Gold Hill. Lots of history here. The newer Centennial Bridge looks like a cable-stay structure, but is really a suspension bridge. It opened in 2004, when the canal turned 90 years old.
We arrived at the Pedro Miguel Locks before noon. It is at this point the new Pacific locks veer off for the larger ships to transit into the Pacific Ocean. It was around here that we heard the train whistle for the Panama Canal Railroad. It was pulling several containers towards the Caribbean side.
The last set of locks were at Miraflores, where we always like to wave at the locals who go to the building there for lunch or dinner. Today since we were going through so early, the crowd was half of what it was in January, when we exited around 5pm. Very near here, we looked for the field where we usually see a group of large cappabarras , the world’s largest rodents, grazing near the canal. To our surprise, a new Imax complex has begun to be constructed in this area. The fields where we saw these monsters just last January, had been fenced off. However, with the powerful camera, we did see a group of three of them on the opposite side of the fence, hiding in the brush. Eventually, they will be gone.
The NCL Bliss finally appeared behind another mega-ship as they exited the new set of locks. She will also be heading towards Alaska for the summer season, so we may have company as we also sail in the same direction.
The last iconic structure we went under was the Bridge of the Americas, or the continuation of the Pan-American Highway. We sailed past Ft. Amador and the multi-colored roof of the museum. Seems like yesterday that we ate lunch at the marina there. The time has sure flown by.
This time the ship turned towards the right, instead of the left. Instead of heading towards French Polynesia, we will sail north towards Nicaragua, and eventually the west coast of North America.
Time for a light lunch, since we missed going to the dining room at noon. With reservations in the Pinnacle grill this evening, we did not want to ruin our appetite with a large meal. So we picked up a few slices of pepperoni pizza in the Lido, and dined in our room. Less greasy, it was OK today.
Of course, photo sorting kept one of us busy for the rest of the afternoon. When we get home in a few days, it will seem odd not to be carrying one or the other cameras everywhere we go.
We had enough time to catch the final ½ hour of Joel’s concert at the Ocean Bar, before we changed for dinner. We noticed that quite a few folks were making their way to the Wajang Theater to learn more about the Panama Canal with a documentary called the American Experience: Panama Canal, A Man, A Plan, A Canal. Our plan is to watch it tomorrow on TV, as the history is fascinating.
Savory lamb chops with sides of French fries and mushrooms was our choice of entrees in the restaurant. As we suspected, the room was not full, as today was a marathon one, with many people spending most of the day on the outside decks. More than likely, the majority dined early in both the Lido and the dining room, then attended the show at 8pm, and calling it a day shortly afterwards. By the way, the show was a lady by the name of Shirley Dominguez who played the Latin harp. We also saw her while on this year’s world cruise.
One place you would not find us was in the Crow’s Nest at 10:30pm, dancing to the hits with Doolan. Brook happened to meet some friends there a few nights ago, and reported that less than a dozen people were up there. Pretty quiet for the younger crowd, we’re afraid…..
Oh yes, and the clocks went back one hour tonight, always welcomed by all.
Bill & Mary Ann
New spans of a cable-stay bridge located at the Gatun entrance
Many commercial ships passed through the canal today
A very overcast morning
Boni, our nice wine steward during the world cruise
Passing traffic
Sailing through Gatun Lake