Our last port in Mexico was Cabo San Lucas, located in the state of Baja California Sur. It has a population of 65,000 Spanish-speaking people, although English is widely spoken too. The currency is the Mexican peso, and at the time, the rate is about 18 to one US dollar.
During the late 16th and early 17th centuries, Cabo was a haven for pirates. However, today we have watched it grow from a sleepy sport’s fishing community to a destination with swanky hotel and condos. The first time we discovered this area was back in the 1970’s, when tourism was in its infancy. Cabo San Lucas was really a small village with a boat ramp for the tender boats to off-load guests from the cruise ships. We do recall there was one very nice hotel perched on a hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Never in a million years did we envision what we see today. A beautiful marina full of yachts and fishing vessels, luxury stores, golf courses, hotels, and never-ending happy hour at dozens and dozens of restaurants and bars. Yep, a huge part town, and still growing.
The Amsterdam pulled into the San Lucas Bay, right across from Medano Beach early this morning. By the time we woke up, we were looking right at El Arco, where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. Within the rock formations just outside the picturesque marina, is a naturally-formed arch, or a hole in the rock, which has become the iconic symbol of the area.
As promised by Captain Fred yesterday, our stay was extended until 5pm, with the last tender boat back to the ship at 4:30pm. At least we were not pressured to leave early, and try to squeeze in lunch. So we had a light breakfast, and hung around taking morning photos from the lower promenade deck. The lighting for getting the best shots of the rocks and the arch is always in the early morning hours. We were not disappointed.
And the weather was going to be good today, as there was a promising breeze along with comfortable temperatures. Of course, it is always pleasant on the water, but onshore, well tht might be a different story.
Everyone, except a few, had to get tender tickets for the ride over. It appeared that the ships new tender boats were being used, as well as some local tenders from shore. It is a big help having the locals help with the transfers, as we only have one platform out at a time. And the tours were going off also. There were a total of 18 shore excursions offered today. Four types of activities included sight-seeing, adventure/water tours, parasailing/beach tours, and scuba diving/dolphin encounters. They ranged in price from $38 to $220, and ran from 1 ½ to 5 ½ hours. Most of these groups would be the first off.
We went over after 10am, and did happen to ride over with the 25 or more guests who tagged along with the port shopping ambassador for trip to Diamonds International. By the way, we got to ride in one of the new tender boats. They hold about the same amount of people as the older ones, but are much more spacious. Now we have to step up two stairs to get inside the wider opening, then walk down two steps to the seating. The windows are higher than the seats, so it is hard to see outside. If you happen to get inside the boat last, you can be most comfortable on bench seating in the center.
Those people that go to the front of the boat will never get wet now, as the window/doors are raised much higher above the water line. We did notice that there is little air circulation on the lower seat area, so the shorter the ride, the better.
Getting out of the secured tender landing, we were approached by dozens of vendors selling tours, or offering boat and taxi rides. Once past them, it was better. Sometimes the pressure these guys and gals put on the tourists repels them instead of drawing them in.
We took our usual path this morning, heading up towards Cabo Wabo in search of a souvenir t-shirt or two. Far too early for lunch, we did notice that happy hour began at 9am here. Window-shopping on the way down towards the mall, the vendors were in fine form, trying to entice us into their stalls and shops.
Passing by the old Hard Rock Café, we noticed that it has closed permanently, with no signs of re-locating. So much in this part of town has been re-modeled, we barely recognized it. Plaza Bonita Mall has been created with new larger shops, similar to what we found when getting off of the dock by the tender landing.
Puerto Paraiso Mall was our next stop, where we knew we could cool off for a while. Like we expected, it had heated up outside, and the air-conditioning was most welcomed. We always make a stop at the Tommy Bahama store in the luxury end of this mall. Sometimes they have some good sales and also sell another brand of tropical shirts we like. Seems that the sizes available today were either too small or way too large. So we bought nothing.
A new venue we passed in the mall was called the Fish Resort, a unique foot spa experience. While traveling through the Orient, we have seen this service provided, where fish tanks full of small fish called garra rufa suck dead cells of skin off of your feet, which are submerged in the tank. Two young girls were getting this treatment, while their mom stood by watching. We could hear them giggling as soon as we entered into the cool mall doors. The cost varies, but the shortest time is 15 minutes for $20 USD, plus $15 more for a foot massage and hand treatment.
Making our way back outside, we walked around the marina, watching for the tropical fish in the waters. We did see quite a few varieties of fish, including the puffer fish. What we did not see today were a whole lot of pelicans like we usually see. Perhaps they migrate, and we were here later than we usually are. There were few frigates too.
But we did get a kick out of the humongous sea lions that launched themselves on the back ends of some fishing boats as they entered the marina. These animals are so big, they pulled the boats down as they begged fish from the drivers. People were actually petting them as they fed them fish.
We made it as far as Medano Beach and the new hotels and resorts on the water’s edge. The sidewalks along the way were in the process of being widened. Now there is no sandy trail at all as we made our way towards the beach. From this point, all the way to the end at San Jose del Cabo, there is 18 miles of beachfront hotels and resorts. Every time we come here, more hotels are being added. Eventually, there will be solid tourist hotels and resorts the entire way.
And we had quite a surprise when we reached this point, because another ship had “parked” next to us…….the Carnival Splendor. That ship is huge compared to us. With a total of 24 life boats, she has to be double our size, and holds more than double our population. We figured that we had better head for lunch before the restaurants filled up.
Dodging the ever-persistant vendors, we went to our favorite pub that serves pizza. Not crowded yet, we relaxed for an hour, doing what we do best….eat pizza, of course. And drink some very good, ice cold blonde brew. We added a small serving of carrot cake to our meal, and we were on our way by 1pm.
On the way back, we negotiated with a street vendor for a long sleeve t-shirt we had spotted in some shops. The very same shirt was half the price, and would have been less if we wanted to buy in larger quantities. Fun to do, but now we have to watch the weight because we need to fly home. Perish the thought.
Passing the rest of the fun restaurants, we decided to pass up the souvenir stores, and go back to the ship. Once the tender boat filled, we were off for the short transfer. By now, the marina was bustling with boat activity with fishing vessels arriving back, and more tenders bringing the folks from both ships.
It was still very warm in the sun while we waited at the Seaview Pool for the eventual sail out of the bay. Every now and then, we saw something popping out of the water in the distance, then disappear with a wide splash. Definitely not dolphins, they were fish. Getting some lucky shots of them, we discovered later on that they were manta rays, literally flying out of the water. We can only assume something much larger was under them, making them fly into the air.
The last boat was hauled up at 5pm, then the Captain backed up and turned the ship and headed around that famous corner of the rock outcroppings and El Arco. If you were not watching, you would miss the hole in the rock, which some folks did. One couple approached us and asked if we saw the arch, which of course, we did. Someone had told them that the arch had collapsed and was no longer there. Too bad they had not left their veranda sooner , because they missed seeing it.
Once out to sea, the temperatures dropped at least 20 degrees, and the winds almost blew everything off of the aft deck. Captain Fred had warned people to secure their things, but they seldom listen. It was fun watching them wrap towels around their shoulders, running inside for shelter. Eventually, we were the only ones left at the back railing as we sailed towards our next port of San Francisco in a few days.
The Lido seemed to be over-flowing with customers for dinner, as it had been a long and busy day in port. Bet the dining rooms will be almost empty tonight.
And we had guessed right, as there were several empty tables on deck five at 8pm. Lamb shank and honey mustard parmesan crusted chicken were our choices of entrees. Both were excellent. We were back to the room by 9:30pm, choosing not to walk outside after dinner. There was a pianist, humorist, songwriter, by the name of Dale Gonyea, on stage this evening. Since we have enjoyed the music of Joel in the Ocean Bar earlier, we felt we had fulfilled that type of entertainment already.
Two sea days lay ahead of us as we head north into much cooler weather.
Bill & Mary Ann
El Arco – the natural rock outcroppings at Cabo San Lucas
The biggest ads along the marina
Fish in the harbor
Cafes
A new store since we were here
Still takes folks on harbor rides and dinner cruises
