The port of call for today was Salaverry, Peru, an industrial community located on the coast of the country. Technically, the pier is where the ship docked, directly across from a busy freighter unloading corn all day. An interesting process to watch, four cranes scooped their buckets into the hull of the vessel, and filled one truck after another for transport. The dust created from the process was incredible, making it necessary for our crew members that worked the gangway to wear masks and sunglasses. In a matter of hours, every outside surface of the Amsterdam was covered in that dust.
So the real attraction was nearby Trujillo, the third largest city in Peru. What has put this area on the map are the ruins of Chan Chan, the largest pre-Colombian city in the Americas, and the pyramids of the sun and moon. Peru consists of an indigenous peoples with rich ancestral heritage. We calculated that we were here 16 years ago, having taken an all day tour of these ruins. So, it was nice to be able to explore the city of Trujillo, and even more so, with the help of a complimentary shuttle bus.
Yesterday, we had inquired about the destination of the free bus, and were told that we would be transferred to Palacio de las Letras. Asking which city we were going to see, no one at the front desk knew. We did not know if the port guide map would help, and of course, every time we tried to watch the port guide’s talk on TV, something else was on….not his lecture. Guess our suggestion to dedicate one channel to the lecturer fell on deaf ears.
So after a proper dining room breakfast, we headed off the ship by 10am, hoping most of the tour groups had departed. By the way, the HAL group that went to Machu Picchu left quite early to make their flight on time. That’s why the Captain got the ship here by 3am.
Nice and roomy buses arrived for the long line of folks that were going to Trujillo. As the crow flies, the distance would not be that far. But we had to drive for 40 minutes in stop and go traffic to reach the center of town. Right on the pier, there were several huts set up with souvenirs, but we would check them out when we got back.
Coming into the outskirts of the city, we spotted some modern malls with the usual stores you see worldwide. The bus kept going, so we realized we were not stopping there. At the bus stop, we were handed maps from the locals with the main tourists sights listed. As long as we could figure out the map’s details, we should find our way to the Plaza de Armas. In fact, there were several taxi drivers offering tours of that area for $5 a person. Most of us walked, since it was overcast, but warm.
We have to add that the weather on the coast here in Peru is unique. On the edge of the desert, there is a constant heavy haze that is suspended for most of the day. Although it appears that it might rain, we understand that it seldom does. All of the water that is needed for the communities and for growing crops comes from the nearby Andes Mountain range. The further inland we went, the haze parted and some sun appeared later in the day.
So following the map and getting directions from a few locals, we found our way to the spacious plaza. An impressive statue was in the center of the park, and the entire square was lined with the nicest Spanish-colonial buildings. They included many churches, a cathedral, museums, private mansions, government buildings, and McDonald’s. We popped in and out of the most impressive structures, especially the Cathedral of Basilica Mayor. On the opposite corner was a very nice hotel, and although the map had the name of the Hotel Libertador, the name was different on the outside. Once through the entrance, we found a central courtyard with a swimming pool in its center. Now this would have been the perfect place to have lunch and some cold beers, but it was not opened for lunch. Too bad.
Nearby, we spotted a familiar fast food restaurant, McDonald’s. It was full of people, locals and cruisers, buying meal deals and working on their computers. We did learn that the only money they accepted was the Nuevo Sol (3.32 to the US$1). Many folks were going to ATM’s or the bank to exchange some money. All credit cards were accepted as well.
The main pedestrian-only street was Pizarro. It was lined with restaurants, bars, shops, pharmacies, and casinos. Some of the larger hotels were here, along with some fancy casinos. Most restaurants were not opened, and we figured they were dinner venues. Guess there would be no lunch out today. There was a palace located on this street, but we only took photos of the outside.
From here, we made our way back to the bus, about three blocks away. Our timing was perfect because the coach arrived within minutes, and we made the cut to get seats. The traffic was worse on the way back, but it was better for taking photos as the bus went at a crawl.
Lunch for us was in the Lido, which stayed completely open until 3pm. The dining room had been opened today, but only from 12 to 1pm. If there are a lot of tours booked, we think the lunchtime dining room is closed on those port days. And it does give some waiters the chance to go off of the ship, which they love.
Around 3pm, we strolled back to the souvenir stands to find we already have many of the items being sold. The vendors were very polite and pressure-free. Our big purchase was a $2 zippered leather pouch for pills or coins that has a Trujillo design on it. We know that the same merchandise will be offered in Callao and Lima , our port for tomorrow and Saturday.
The rest of the afternoon was spent sorting photos and taking notes for the report. Sail away was prompt at 5pm, and presented itself with more photo-taking. It was better attended this time, mostly because it was cooler than Panama.
Oh yes, we promised you the dirt story. We were not planning a window garden this year, but while in Ft. Lauderdale, we picked up a couple of little pots with sunflower seeds in the Dollar Store. Well, the seeds came up rapidly, and we realized if they are to survive, we needed larger pots and, of course, dirt or planting soil. We found all that we needed in Panama City, and proceeded to distribute the soil in the four pots. The dirt had to be the most unusual stuff we have worked with. The description was in Spanish, so we had no idea what was in it. Soaking the four pots first, we discovered this dirt became like a sludge….a black pudding-like substance that turned our fingers black….like charcoal dust. Thank goodness, it did not have an awful smell. We would have been in trouble if there was fertilizer in it. And doing this all in the bathtub (carefully), we cleaned everything up with paper napkins we had brought from home. The napkins worked to wick the excess water that refused to drain out the bottoms. Now the seeds and smaller pots have been planted, and we hope this concoction does not kill everything. We will let you know the progress if they grow. This time we had black thumbs instead of green ones. Oh what fun we have…..
Dinner was good as most of it was geared towards Spanish-style food. Spicy and tasty, except for one of us that had KFC (almost) chicken and mashed potatoes.
The next two days we will be in Callao for Lima. Still not sure where the shuttles will take us. Normally, it was always Miraflores, but we heard it may be a different place.
Bill & Mary Ann
PS The dining room shades on deck four have been repaired. Wonder how long they will stay put?
