Bora Bora is part of the Leeward group of the Society Islands, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located 143 miles northwest of Papeete and has a population of around 8,900 people. Not only is this volcanic island one of the oldest and most beautiful, the lagoon that surrounds it is stunning. We have had the experience of swimming in these emerald waters, actually feeding sting rays and sharks more than once. Yes, it did take nerves of steel the first time we did this, but when we discovered gaining access back into the boat wasn’t so easy for the ladies of the group, the thrill turned into fear with the sharks right under our dangling feet. Oh sure, they tell you that the reef sharks are harmless, but what about those huge lemon sharks that suddenly appeared? Needless to say, we have not repeated this excursion again for quite some time.
Deciding that we would tender over to shore a bit later in the morning, we went to breakfast as we usually do. That’s when we discovered another vessel had entered into the lagoon. And it was a pretty one…..the Windstar Spirit, part yacht and part cruise ship. Entering service in 1988, she is 5350 gross tons, a baby compared to the Amsterdam at 62,735 gross tons. She holds over 150 passengers, reportedly in their 50’s or younger, with a crew of 88. The four giant masts are 170 feet above the deck, and are outfitted with computer-controlled sails. The cruise living here is without entertainment, silly parlor games (the book’s words, not ours), structured activities, or ship’s photographers. So the vacation is unregimented and relaxing. However, they have that retractable marina with water sports such as banana boats, kayaks, sunfish sailboats, windsurfer boards, water skis, and scuba and snorkel gear. Last but not least, there are 4 zodiacs. It is quite possible that the ship stays in each Polynesian port for more than one day.
Tours offered here today included an island drive, snorkel and swim, scuba, and a glass bottom boat ride. Or you could go to a motu islet with a swim in the lagoon, or opt for a 4 wheel drive in the mountains, or maybe do the shark/sting ray tour, like we did. Prices ran from $70 to $246. Many smart folks we know pre-arranged private tours online, and did pretty much the same tours, but for a lot less.
Timing our departure in between tour groups and tender ticketed people, we went right down to deck A, and got on the boat. This lagoon is so protected that there was barely a wave in the water, making access to the boat a piece of cake. Nothing like what we did in Easter Island. With a 10 minute ride, we stepped on the island at about 10am. Did we mention it was going to be one very hot day? Although rain was in the forecast, we never saw any. What a huge difference from yesterday, when passing showers came every few minutes.
Our plan for the day was to take the local shuttle all the way to the Intercontinental Hotel at Matira Point. We knew exactly where to find the bus, and some other folks followed us after asking about the transfer. For a mere $5 or 500 francs, we were dropped off after the 20 minute ride. Passing in front of the Intercontinental Resort, we read the day-use sign which read that for 6500 francs, you would be able to use the hotel’s beach and restrooms. A lunch was also included in that price. So for 13,000 francs or about $130, you would probably spend the entire day there.
Not for us, we like to walk, and see some of the island and the local people. We continued up the road for a mile or so, and ended up at the Sofitel Resort, which offers the water bungalows or hillside suites. It is a beautiful property that we have visited on tours in the past. It appeared to us that we are here during the low season, since the drier time of year is from May to October. Few guests were out and about, so when we inquired about getting cold beers at the outdoor bar, we were told that it was not chilled yet.
Heading back, we strolled through the equally as nice Maitai Resort. They have a really nice covered outdoor restaurant with a variety of dishes. The menu just happens to feature pizza. We have dined here before, and can report the pizza was great. Only today we were a bit too early and they were not opened yet. All we did was take photos, then continued on our hike.
The next stop was at Matira Beach, which is about as pristine as they get. The best thing is that it is a public beach where all the locals go. And for good reason….the lagoon waters are shallow enough to wade out for many yards where you can see small fish and even some sting rays. But it is the gorgeous colors of the water that is so mesmerizing. Looking a half mile towards the reef where the waves were breaking, it was almost impossible to tell the sky from the water. It just blends together as one. And the fun part of strolling the gentle surf barefoot, is being able to watch the little kids frolic in the 85 degree water, their moms and dads watching from the white sandy beach. By the way, we did pass by many friends from the ship that came to the couple of cafes and bars along the beachfront, waving as we strolled by.
At the end of the mile-long stretch of white sand, we popped up to the road, and hiked the rest of the way to Bloody Mary’s, the famous restaurant visited by hundreds of famous folks over the years. Needless to say, it was crowded, because most of the tours stopped here on their way back to the pier. The guests have the option of staying here, and making their way back on their own. Lunch and anything ice cold to drink was in order. We did have to wait to be seated for a few minutes, but soon got a nice table for two with the funny wooden stool seats set in the white sand floor. We watched as a couple of groups of impatient people walked in and sat down at tables. That is, until the waiter came and asked them to go wait back at the entrance. This is not your typical café.
We ordered the Mexican chicken quesadilla with dips and chips. Really tasty, but the Hinano beers were the best. Actually lifesavers today. Recalling that dessert was good here, we added one plate of profiteroles to share. Yep, just as good as we remembered. After relaxing for an hour, it was time to move on. Across the road here is the pier, where small boats can tie up to dine here. It doubles as a great photo spot as well.
The shuttle arrived, and we were back in Vaitape within minutes. There were still some vendors to check out, and a couple of local shops. We had better luck at the street tables where we purchased a very reasonable pair of black pearl earrings. These will match a carved shell pearl pendant that was purchased a few years ago, probably from the same lady. The next bargain was a bunch of tiny bananas for $4. They are tangy as well as good for us. While here, we ran into friends Howard and Gyl, who seem to enjoy the same type of self-tour like we do. Quite often, we will run into them in most every port, walking about town. It has become so frequent, we have all decided the day is complete when our paths cross. Kind of like good luck charm.
A tender boat was waiting as we exited the souvenir shop near the pier. At least they were not over-filling the boat before they left for the ship. Sure felt good to get back to the air-conditioning. It was already 4pm, and we spent some time working in the room on photos of course. We could see that the skies were clouding up, but rain never occurred. It may have felt good.
Dinnertime was fun, sharing our exploits with Barbie. One of these days, she will leave the ship and go ashore. There are many folks that stay onboard, enjoying what activities are still happening. Barb heard that all of the stranded passengers on Moorea made it to Bora Bora today. Or we should say, that all of the HAL tour folks made it back. Not sure about the independents.
All aboard was 10:30pm, but we heard the platform being closed down at that same time. Obviously, everyone was back onboard. The ship left the reef before 11pm. What a wonderful day we spent here….and lucky too with no rain.
With three days at sea ahead of us, we will be in Tonga after crossing the International Dateline.
Bill & Mary Ann
