Sometimes around 7am, the Amsterdam sailed into the waters right off of the opening to the coral atoll of Fanning Island, or Tabuaeran, Kiribati. Once the ship was positioned in a favorable position for tendering, the anchor was dropped. Although not our first time here, today's visit promises to be a nice experience. The weather was good, already most warm and humid when we went out on the veranda. Being located so close to the equator, it is normal to get rain showers any time of year. Today, we were lucky, as the rain stayed away.
For some strange reason, the port guide for Fanning Island got misplaced. So what little one of us recalls is that about 2000 people live on this circular atoll of 13 square miles with a lagoon of 425 square miles in the center. And what a lagoon it is…….waters the colors of deep blue to soft turquoise. Almost surreal. The coral-based land is full of coconut trees, which is one of their products they export. From the coconut meat to the copra, and other by-products, this industry employs many of the men. Other exports are seaweed, which we understand is sold to Japan. Fishing sustains this group of natives, as well as raising pigs and chickens. You will find no stores, restaurants, buses, or even restroom facilities. Yep, this visit gives a whole new meaning to touring.
The duration of today's port was short, with us leaving at 2pm. It had been extended to 3pm, so that was better for most everyone. And with it being a tender port, it had been made clear at one of the port lectures, that it might not be the port for those with walking difficulties. Knowing that sometimes the ocean swells appear suddenly, making the process iffy, we decided to skip breakfast, and go over to the island early. So by 8:30am, we were on the second boat over.
Once at the pier, we discovered that the landing had been re-built, and done right. No more sheets of plywood covering the old wood, this was newly built with pressure-treated lumber. Quite often, this area gets hit hard with hurricanes and winds that will rip most of their structures apart. So finally, we found they figured out how to do it right.
At the end of the covered pier, was a group of singers greeting everyone. And right in front of them was their signature 5 gallon bucket for tips. In fact, there were several spots with the same buckets, and we give them credit for thinking big. We do know for a fact there was a record amount of donations coming over to these folks from or ship. Last night, Henk mentioned that medical supplies, food staples, and other practical items were to be gifted to the community.
Set up right near the landing pier, were tables of treasures being displayed for sale by the local ladies. Most of the items were made with small seashells, as well as shark-teeth decorated knives. Everything was priced to sell, and sell they did. This is the best way to help support their way of life, even if it is in a small way. The locals were just as we remembered….welcoming and polite. Many wanted to connect with the passengers, even the kids. We saw no signs of kids begging anywhere, unlike what you might find in other places such as the Amazon River for example.
Continuing onward, we followed the one main dirt road that leads down the center of the narrow atoll. The Pacific Ocean is on one side, while the lagoon is on the other. Lining the road are the basic homes of the locals, which can range from small thatched-roof huts, to more substantial homes with metal roofing. Some folks have generators, solar panels, and a shared well for fresh water. Most everyone owns domestic pigs, having them tethered with a rope. We did spot three little piggys running down someone's lane…..cute as can be. Many dogs roamed around the village, but we saw absolutely no cats.
Every so often, we had to move aside for the locals on bikes and even motorcycles. What we did not see, were local men with the flatbed pick-up trucks that used to drive 8 people at a time down the road to see the few sites here. They charged $10 for a 15 minute drive. Our only guess is that something happened that made them quit doing it. The road is easily walked, which is what we did, snapping pictures all of the way.
Our destination was the school property, where we found the kids in their classrooms. Thinking it odd that school was in session on a Sunday, we realized that it was Monday here. Last night, the Captain mentioned during dinner that we had indeed crossed the International Dateline, thus losing one day. But he decided not to impose it yet. Perhaps before we get to Samoa. Since there are no clocks on Fanning Island, he felt it would not matter anyway. Further up the road, we found the church and their huge meeting place. We also witnessed one of the men opening a pile of coconuts with a hatchet. First he drained the coconut milk in a bucket, then tossed the halves in a pile. The meat inside was ready to be dried in the sun. Hard work, but it keeps them in shape. No need for exercise gyms in this part of the world. The ladies do not have the convenience of washing machines and dryers either. They wash the clothing in large tubs, then hang everything on a line to dry.
The temperature seemed to be rising, so we headed back to the pier area to check out their treasures. Another seashell necklace was added to the collection. Then we went off to the other end of the island to see the monument and the channel where the water creates a strong current with the tides. No one swims here, or they would be swept out to the ocean. There were many people swimming in the lagoon today, or relaxing on what little sandy strips of beachfront there was.
By 11am, we boarded a waiting tender boat, and were back right before lunchtime in the dining room. The ice teas were so good, we must have had four glasses. Gan had missed us at breakfast, and seemed happy to see us. After lunch, we went back to the room and worked on photos, and possibly slept a bit on the veranda. The heat of the day had gotten to one of us, despite that fact that we consumed water and soda while on the island. By the way, we had been advised that no food was allowed to be taken over, but we overheard some folks on the tender boat that they had back packs full of snacks. Perhaps things that are sealed, like crackers are OK, but not fresh fruit or sandwiches from the Lido. If people ignore these warnings in New Zealand or Australia, they would be fined.
The time for our perks had come. And we had a vase of beautiful flowers and a 12 pack of Coke Zero waiting for us in our room as well. The gift is appreciated, although the number of sodas has shrunk from a 24 pack, to 17 cans, to 12 cans. Down-sizing has hit each and every nook and cranny.
Watching the last tender come back after 3pm, we had intended to go to the sail away at the aft pool. But we ended up staying on the veranda, and boy, did that pay off. Once we were 10 minutes away from the shoreline, we spotted hundreds of dolphins quite a distance from the port side of the ship. They were involved in a feeding frenzy, working the waters that probably had a shoal of small fish. Never have we seen such a massive display of dolphins doing their thing. Thanks to the better camera, many shots were successful in capturing this scene. Denise and Howie, who did go to the sail out, confirmed that they had not seen this.
Later on, we took the time to watch the sun go down, but with many clouds on the horizon, the sun disappeared rather quickly. Dinner followed and we had one shrimp dish, and one duck entrée. Both were good, as we told Philip and Peter when they paid a visit to our table. They have been conversing with each and every dinner guest at least once a week, making sure they are keeping the folks happy….and a tad bit fatter too. Philip also confirmed something we heard from the Captain last night, concerning the 2021 world cruise. It seems that the company's policy now is to have two captains share the time on that long cruise. One will begin in FT. Lauderdale, while the second one will join in Singapore. That will be different….
A few days at sea will be nice in order to be ready for American Samoa.
Bill & Mary Ann
