It seemed strange that we were arriving an hour later to the port of Luganville, Vanuatu. That's when we realized the "clock setter" had forgotten the big wall clock when changing the hour back last night. So by the time we were ready for breakfast, it really was only 6:30am. Oops….It's not the first time, nor will it be the last.
Anyhow, Vanuatu is a country of 83 islands. The largest one is Espiritu Santo, and where Luganville is located. With a population of 13,000, Luganville is the largest city on this island, and the second largest in Vanuatu. In the 1800's, sandalwood was the main trade product, as well as coconuts and their by-products. Reportedly, there are uncrowded beaches and clear waters for the divers and sun lovers. However, you will not find either of these in the town of Luganville.
Actually, the town we see today was built by American troops in 1942 during World War II. The main street in town was made extra wide to accommodate four big trucks Again, this settlement has a "50's" feel and look about it, as nothing is modern.
We paid a visit here back in 2007 while on the world cruise. Today we both agreed the pier area had been enlarged. The easy way out was roped off, and the guests were channeled through a string of taxi and van drivers offering independent tours. There was no pressure when we said no thanks. One annoying thing was that the info ladies tried selling us a local map for $5, when everywhere else we have visited handed them out for free. As we would discover later, there is a big difference with the people here compared to Samoa and Fiji. There were no huge greetings like we heard in Fiji. If you were lucky, you may get a smile from the younger locals.
Leaving the ship around 10am, we found the weather was not the best. Despite warnings of scattered showers, it never did rain. Heavily overcast, it was windy as heck. The tents of the local souvenir vendors had come loose last night and half of them blew away. One of the nicer vendors told us this story, and added that when it is this windy, it never rains. In fact, she said the last good rains they have seen were last June. The town folk are hoping for it since it has been too dry. We know the feeling with the dry conditions in Northern California.
More than one guest that was returning from town claimed there was nothing there, as they headed back to the ship. Even though we also remembered it was like that, we still enjoyed the walk. Passing Sue, she gave us some good advice about coming back to the port. Take the lower road, and it would be a shortcut.
So we took the long way around, because the other way was roped off. Basic shops lined the wide road such as hardware, lumber, food, clothing, cafes, and pharmacies. Most appeared to resemble dollar stores. Many of these stores are owned by investors from Asia, and the local cafés reflect it. No McDonald's here, although we did see a few small places with free wifi.
Near the end of Main Street, we found Unity Park, grassy grounds that face the water of his inlet of the Coral Sea with a grand stand and numerous food stalls. Town events are held here. Next to the park, we located the produce market, only to find that the area was under construction, being re-modeled. There were a small number of vendors near the road, selling coconuts, papaya, bananas, and mangoes. Root vegetables like sweet potatoes, plantains, cassava and taro were spread on the ground. Breadfruit and jackfruit were plentiful, and it can be boiled, roasted, fried, baked, or barbequed. Coconut milk is used freely in most all of their dishes. Seafood is their main protein in the form of lobster, crabs, prawns, and fish. We did not see that market today.
Going a little further, we crossed over the Sarakata River, then thought this was a good place to turn around and head back. It was slower going back, since we ran into many friends on the way back. Many of them were searching for beer and free wifi. We did see two places that had both, but they were already stuffed to the gills with Amsterdam guests. By the way, the beers were $4 to $5 a can. And their currency is the Vanuatu vatu at 115 to one US dollar. US and Australian dollars were accepted and probably credit cards, although we did not have lunch anywhere in town today.
This time we did find the street that took us directly back to the pier, without taking the main road, going down the hill, and walking back. Looking through the souvenir tents, one of us found an African print sundress for the pool. Really looks like it came from Mombasa instead of Vanuatu. And another reason for the purchase was to use it as a pattern for other fabrics that wait to be sewn at home. There were a few wood carvings, but the vendors were not enthusiastic in selling them. The ladies quoted prices very high, and despite the fact that we had heard they do not bargain, that was not the case here. They were cutting their prices, but still too high for us. And to tell the truth, our house looks like a museum already without adding more. Now we understand why many seasoned travelers purchase only magnets.
Back onboard by 1pm, we had a very nice lunch in the Lido. We have been practicing saying thank you in Thai, since we have gotten to know some of the new Thai crew members. One young lady by the name of Som is proud that she has taught us well. She tests us every morning in the dining room.
Working on photos kept us busy until the ship left the dock around 5pm. Although it never rained today, the winds remained strong and the clouds never lifted. The Captain warned of seas up to 12 feet, so we might be in for some rocking and rolling.
Dinnertime was good again, like that is a surprise. One of us tried the barracuda, a first, and the other had the prime rib. Both were quite tasty. On the way to the show lounge, we ran into former tablemates, Annie and John, who we met on this same type of voyage back in 2016, we believe. They are from Alabama and always have great stories to share. So we did not make it to the show of the singer, Lumiri Tubo. However, with her powerful voice, we could hear her all the way to the atrium on deck five.
Tomorrow's port will be Port Vila, the capital. However, it is Sunday, and we have been warned that most everything will be closed. Oh well, that the way the cookie crumbles sometimes.
Bill & Mary Ann
