The Zuiderdam must have arrived to the port of Skagway, Alaska, in the wee hours of the morning, because by the time we were awake, the vessel was docked. We are not in our usual spot due to the fact there was a small landslide during the summer on the cliffside where the famous graffiti is painted. The ships have been moved over in the different slips, but just as close to town as always.
The weather was pretty nice with lots of sun out, but also with a chilling breeze. White clouds floated on by, with no threat of rain. So glad we brought the arctic jackets now. Checking out the temperature, Bill heard and spotted a harbor seal, who seems intrigued with the two ships. Only saw one.
Today the Grand Princess joined us shortly after we arrived. Should be busy in town today, unless most of the guests take an excursion on the train, which we would highly recommend. More about tours shortly….
These days the population of Skagway is in the area of 900 people. Back in 1897 – 98, the Klondike gold rush hit Alaska, and the population grew to a whopping 20,000 in a matter of three months. Outfitted with their gear, the courageous prospectors had to hike over dangerous snow and ice-covered mountains and raging rivers to the gold mining areas. Many of them lost their lives, as well as their animals. This prompted the creation of the White Pass and Yukon Route railway with vintage coaches, a much better way to access their fortunes. However, the gold rush ended suddenly, and the hordes of miners moved on. The railroad stayed.
So this is a good time to mention a few tours. The excursions here offered a few different options of traveling on the White Pass Scenic Railroad. The extremely scenic ride toke the folks up 2865 feet in 20 miles with views of granite gorges, many waterfalls, and green meadows with emerald lakes. When we took the tour, we ended up in Carcross, where we got to see some of the musher dogs, as well as enjoy a BBQ lunch at picnic tables. Since we had crossed the border into Canada, we had to pack passports with us. Today's train tours were priced between $140 to $200. Locals were also selling tickets as we got off of the pier.
There were other options like a helicopter ride to walk on a glacier for $380, or a trip to a musher camp with sled dogs for $180. Gold panning was recommended for the families with a salmon bake for $110, and zip lining for $120 or bike riding for the younger group at $120. There are several hiking trails out of the town as well. Two shorter tours included re-enactments of the gold rush, and ghosts at the Red Onion Saloon priced at $50 to $100. Usually there were street cars giving city tours, but we saw none today. Even one of the information places was closed, as was the restaurant where we know there is delicious pizza. Perhaps it is due to the fact it was Saturday, and they only open for dinner. Darn, we had kept breakfast light to be able to dive into that pizza……
Putting on the warm jackets, we went off the ship about 11am. Today there was no line, but the gangway had changed to deck two instead of three because of the rising tide. It was really steep. The town of Skagway is laid out in a grid, and is easily walked. In our opinion, it is the least commercialized town that we have visited. Yes, there are numerous jewelry shops and souvenir stores, but low key. Nothing like being in the Caribbean. Some popular items for sale are the native ulu knives and cutting boards. Most useful, we never thought they may be denied being brought onboard ships. One shop had signs saying ask us how to bring these home. Of course, anything sharp would be stored for you, then returned before the cruise ended. Speaking of items allowed onboard, there has been a sign outlining beverages we can bring. Wines would have a corkage fee, but each person could bring on 6 sodas or water in cans . No plastic is allowed.
We walked past a new building, which was under construction last year. Turned out to be a modern restroom for the tourists. It was situated in the fenced parklike greens where the trains pass by. The locals must use the field for events we suppose. The Pullen Creek goes down one side, and is well marked with information panels. Everything you need to know about local flora and fauna can be found here. The one thing we could not find was the name of the trees full of red berries surrounding this park. We heard some people suggest they were pyracantha, but we know for a fact, they are not. Similar berries, but not the same. There was a lot of info about the life cycle of the salmon in this area, although, we did not see a single fish in this creek. When we reach Ketchikan, there will be salmon there we hope.
Most all of the shops and cafes were open today, and the streets were not crowded yet. One of the trains passed by, and we saw that each car was full of tourists. They would be back later, then do the town we suspect. We did not notice any sale signs yet, but that will come in a few weeks. That is when the crew members come out to shop for their families at home. Something somewhat unique to Alaska are their Christmas ornaments, sold all year. We were hoping to find Christmas cards as well, but had no luck. Maybe we'll find some in Ketchikan in a few days.
Like we said, the small café, The Station Bar and Grill, was closed. Checking this out online, we found that thy open at 4pm on weekends. Strange it was not posted on their door. Since the ship was scheduled to leave after 8:30pm, we could do a late lunch, with a light dinner. A few other places were opened, such as the Red Onion Saloon, but there were way too many people in there for our comfort. Best to go back to the ship, which is what we did after our stroll through town.
We got back after 2pm, and ordered a room service lunch. Despite the fact that the waiter repeated my order, we received only one panini entrée. So we shared the little roast beef sandwich, along with a soup and one salad. They did get the plate of four chocolate chip cookies correct. This evening, we have reservations in the Pinnacle Grill, so we will be good and hungry. Around 4pm, one of us did make a run to the Lido for a few slices of pizza to bring back to the room. At least the pizza is not self-serve.
Did we mention that we have no satellite TV feed once again today? It must be blocked from the steep mountains here. We did have internet however, allowing for photo work and watching (or listening to) a couple of movies. While checking the temperature this morning on the TV, we saw that Glacier Bay was missing on the line-up. Had they cancelled the scenic sailing tomorrow? That would be so disappointing. A quick stop at the front desk remedied that. It had been an error, and we were indeed, going to Glacier Bay. They stressed that it was the highlight of the seven day cruise. We agree, especially if the weather co-operates. Later in the day, we received some printed info of what to expect for the scenic touring beginning early in the morning. Of course, having been here just a year ago, we think we have the brochure memorized. L.ooking forward to the sailing.
Dinner was good in the Pinnacle grill with starters of wedge salads, clothesline bacon, and something new……panko breaded mushrooms. The mushrooms came three on a plate, which we ate with our salad. Very good. Once again, we asked for our mains to be served as hot as they can get it. Our waiter appeared a bit surprised at our request, but agreed to serve it immediately after it was plated. And it was much better than our last meal here, where our entrees sat on a side table, while the waiter served a large group. This evening we had one entrée of lamb chops and another of filet mignon. Both delicious. Saved a tad bit of room for ice cream and one decaf cappuccino. While we dined, the ship left the port, turned around, and headed south towards our next stop. One of the waiters in the Pinnacle recognized us from world cruises, and asked if we knew one of our favorite waiters, Gan, had left HAL for another cruise line? Wow, now that is news……..
Step One Dance Co. performed In Tandem, while many guests sat at attention for the Lincoln Center Stage strings performance. We have yet to walk through the Casino, so do not know how crowded that venue has been. Time to turn in, since the scenic cruising will begin early in the morning.
Bill & Mary Ann
