Today's port of call was the ever-mysterious Easter Island with their even more fascinating statues called "moais". If it wasn't for the presence of these giant volcanic statues dotted around the island, Easter Island or Rapa Nui as the locals call it, this would just be another island located in the middle of nowhere in the massive South Pacific Ocean. And part of the mystery lies in the fact that it was so isolated that a very different culture emerged from the original Polynesian people that lived here.
Of course, there were some excursions offered that offered a glimpse into the past and the story behind the evolution to what we see today. Ancient cultures was a good place to start the learning process for 3 hours and $300. Easter Island panorama drive was also 3 hours for $300. Mystical moais and highlights was 4 hours and $310, while deep Easter Island culture was 3 hours for $420. The most expensive was Easter Island Moai and umu feast where a complete meal was cooked underground on hot stones for 5 hours and cost $580. You might wonder why the prices were so high. We sure did, until we learned that a Rapa Nui National Park permit for $112 was needed to enter most of the areas where the moai were located. And if you were doing an independent tour, it was mandated that you hire a guide to take you into these park sights, such as the quarry. Over the years, we have taken every tour with the exception of the umu feast and were quite happy to be on our own today. One of the most fun tours we took was a drive around the island followed by a buffet lunch at Anakena Beach, about 12 miles from the tender pier. This is one excursion they do not offer anymore.
As always, the ship was not cleared by the local authorities on time, so Erin had to announce for everyone to be patient and not line up at the stairs down to the platform. Even though the tender tickets were being handed out at 8am, we have heard of many guests that lined up at 4am on previous stops here. Those who had ship tours booked would get priority over all other groups.
It looked like it was going to be a very nice and warm day on the island. The winds were about 16mph and the temperature would reach close to 80 degrees. Humidity was 73%, and from we gathered, there was no rain predicted. If rain was in the forecast, we would have packed umbrellas.
We headed off of the ship by 9:30am, but first with a stop at the Wajang Theater where we met with Kumar. He escorted us down to deck A where we joined the end of the line for the next tender. Although not really rough, it was taking some time loading the boats. Despite the stern warnings of who should or should not go ashore, it was quite apparent to us that lots of people ignored that warning. The staff can only warn the folks about the possibility of accidents, but if you choose to ignore that advice, then you are on your own. Cannot say they didn't tell us.
The rather smooth ride to the tender drop-off took about 20 minutes, but loading and unloading took another 40 minutes. There were at least a dozen crew members to help us off the tender boat and up some steep steps to the parking lot. The HAL excursions had been scheduled in the morning and afternoon, so not everyone had to go over all at once. Shuttle buses, taxis, and personal vehicles were all parked here. If you wanted a good photo of a moai, then you did not need to go any further. There was one right here at the tender landing as well as numerous tables of souvenirs. We already have one of the small moais from our first visit here, so how many more did we need?
We began our hike from the small boat jetty towards the center of Hanga Roa, the main town here. The walk is quite scenic with a series of moais and restored volcanic carvings perched on raised stone platforms. We don't recall seeing all of these sculptures, so it is possible they have been added over the last few years. Most all the statues and carvings date back to the 13th to the 16th centuries created by the Polynesian settlers. Their true meaning probably remains a mystery to this day. Modern day scientists have yet to come up with a proven theory even to the mystery of how these statues were transported.
Scanning the hillsides and mountain tops, we noticed there is a barren landscape with few trees. At one time centuries ago, trees were everywhere but were used for fuel and also for transporting the large moais to where we see them on the coastline. In time, they had used all of the trees, never thinking ahead of planting more in their place. Coconut palms were a main source of food for the natives as well, but a type of native rats consumed all of the seeds these trees produced. In time they were gone. Erosion took a toll on the planting grounds and made the soil unsuitable for crops. Sadly, the population declined and the culture almost disappeared.
There are from 5000 to 8000 residents today on Easter Island, many of which are seasonal workers from mainland Chile. Only a very small percentage are related to the indigenous settlers. The remainder are mixed with Chilean people, and their official language is Spanish. Many of the tourist-related natives speak English too. Catholicism is the main religion.
There are about 3000 cars or trucks on the island, and that does not include the many motorcycles we saw. There are nearly 2000 horses on this island, including the ranch horses and wild ones. It is not uncommon to see some of the wild ones grazing anywhere they wish. Higher in the hillsides, there are ranches that also raise cattle and some sheep.
The electricity on the island is generated by diesel engines with the fuel imported from mainland Chile. The power in the more highly dense towns is cut off for 2 hours once a week to preserve the fuel supply. One piece of info that is a positive for the natives is that there are flights from Santiago often, if not daily. It is far quicker to fly here than come by ship.
Unfortunately, today was a Sunday, and many venues were closed. Those included stores, restaurants, cafes, and even the wharf where the local fishermen worked. When we got to the center of town, the small colorful fishing boats were tied up without any activity happening around them. Usually we go and wander around the small outboard motorboats and get to see the catch of the day which the fellows are preparing to sell to the local restaurants.
We passed the restaurant Pea, where we always stop for lunch and beers. They were closed today, but there were some other smaller venues that looked like possibilities. But first we needed to make our way to the seven standing moais located on the coastline where no one needs the park permit. That would take us past the bars and lounges where a fairly new entertainment stage was set up in a grassy area on the waterside. Over the years, we have watched the progress on this venue, and from what we learned from a waitress, there is a huge Polynesian concert or competition that is held here. It draws people from everywhere.
Continuing on, we hiked to the local cemetery that has the most commanding view of the Pacific Ocean. Walking through the parking lot, we found the path to the moais, passing some of those horses along the way. Obviously well fed, they are like pets here. The best photos can be taken from up high without walking down into the crater and taking pictures right in front of the statues. While chatting with some of our buddies on the slopes, one of us leaned against a pipe railing at a small pile of sacred rocks. It wasn't long before a park ranger lady came and politely asked me to move away from the fencing. The sign by the pile of remains stated do not cross over the fence (more or less), but I sort of knew I might be in trouble. It did not say do not lean here. We read later that one lady egregiously violated the rules to the point of a $17000. USD fine. Wow….
Usually, we walked beyond this site and a bit further up where there is a nice small kiddie park with benches. One of us will take a break, while the other went further exploring the sites. This was as good a place as any to turn around and head back. It was very warm and we did not bring a lot of water with us. And it was time to search for an alternate place for lunch and much needed beverages….namely beer.
Before we left the ship, we had searched for pizza, and did locate a restaurant called La Pizzeria (like in Papeete), but were not sure how far off of the main coastal drive it was. So as much as we looked forward to sinking our teeth into a Margherita pizza, we opted for a smaller venue on the way back. It was Le Boulangerie with a most-inviting patio with a few empty tables. By the name, we first thought it was like a bakery, but they had a full- service daily menu with many choices, none of which was pizza. First thing we ordered were the local beers which were called Mahina Pia Rapa Nui Motu Lager and more than likely brewed in or around Santiago, Chile. Then we ordered one Americano chicken sandwich to share. It came with a dip of homemade mayo and was plenty big enough for two. The homemade bun was filled with moist sliced chicken breast, cheese, bacon, ham, lettuce, cucumber, and marinated red onions. No sides served with it. We did add a slice of delicious apple pie with a lattice top crust. Excellent, also homemade. They did accept American Express and the total bill including a tip came to under $40 USD. At home, that price would not even cover the beers. And being able to relax on their patio watching the people and cars pass by was perfect. Pizza will have to wait for Papeete.
Back at the tender jetty, we spotted a sizable green turtle swimming and diving for algae that they eat off of the rocks. Even with two little kids swimming nearby, the turtle was not scared off. It surfaced often enough for us to get some good shots of the multi-colored shell. We do know that turtle soup is a common meal in these parts.
The return ride back to the ship was regulated with the addition of tender tickets. We were #29 and were called within minutes. There was a group of crew members waiting to go back, but they had to wait until the guests were loaded first. There was still room and they rode back with us. The process worked well, except loading some of the guests was tedious so say the least. And they do it with a smile, bless them. It was a longer ride than we recalled because of the low tide, the ship had to be anchored further away. Comparing this transfer with the one in the Falkland Islands, today was a piece of cake.
We chilled out in our room working as usual on the day's photos. All aboard was supposed to be after 5:30pm, but at 6:30pm, there was no indication that we were leaving. Finally, the Captain came on at 6:45pm, and said we were late, but had no explanation. We knew that three of the tenders were still off-loading guests from a late tour, so it was closer to 7:30pm before we left the island. The Captain thanked his crew once again for an excellent job and we had 1019 nautical mile to reach Pitcairn Island in a few days. Tomorrow the required speed will be 17 knots with 20 mph winds and partly cloudy skies with temps in the high 70's. The sea swells would be no more than 6 feet, and he advised us all to be careful in and around the ship.
Dinner time found us ordering South American tostadas with chili con carne, lettuce and cheese. If we had thought to have two each, that would have been plenty for dinner, along with our Caesar salads. Mains were one enchilada plate with shredded beef….enough for both us. And the other entr?e was a fried pork chop with rice. Desserts were one scoop of vanilla ice cream and a sliced banana, both served with a little bit of fudge sauce.
Good news was that the clocks went back one hour tonight. And we heard through the grape vine that we will be doing "back one hour" for about 5 more days after that before arriving to Papeete, Tahiti. That should be interesting…..
Looking forward to two lazy days at sea.
Bill & Mary Ann
