Well, we have pretty much reached the 100th day mark in this world cruise. Hard to imagine there is a little over a month left. We have to admit, we are really enjoying Japan, even though we have been here before, there are places new to us and more to see and learn in the places we have already visited.
The first thing we noticed before our arrival to Nagasaki was that the satellite TV feed had been shut down again. This has to be a government mandate with the cruise ships and goes unexplained by anyone on this ship. Not every person goes onshore in each and every port for many reasons. Without the ability to keep up with the news, for instance, can be stressful. The answer we get when asking the front desk people is that the service will resume once we leave port. At least, the internet signal has not been affected or there would be a mutiny onboard for sure.
It was raining lightly when the Volendam arrived to the port of Nagasaki this morning around 7am. The ship was docked starboard at the Dejima Pier and will stay here for two days. While we were at breakfast, the Diamond Princess arrived dropping a whole lot of guests into town. The Diamond was re-christened in 2004 and it is 115,875 gross ton. It carries a total of 2700 passengers and 1100 crew members. Should be a busy day here, despite the ongoing rain showers. We have been told that tomorrow, the weather will be clear of rain and mostly sunny. It didn’t matter to us as we always go off no matter what the weather.
We have to add an interesting story regarding the Diamond Princess. Back in October 1, 2002, the Diamond was being constructed in the Mitsubishi shipyard when it caught on fire from a welder working in one of the staterooms. The fire spread and lasted for over 36 hours, causing huge damage to the ship (70% of it was destroyed). All workers were safely evacuated and there were no deaths. The largest insurance claim ever was filed for 400 million dollars by Princess. We happened to be here on the Volendam a day or so after it happened and saw the extensive damage from our veranda. At the same time, the Sapphire Princess was also being built here. The hulls were switched and the Diamond became the Sapphire and Sapphire was the Diamond, which entered service in March 2004. The Sapphire debuted in May of 2004. There were passenger reports that the Sapphire had that “new car smell” about it. True since it was really the damaged Diamond re-named.
Here are some of the tours offered today and tomorrow. Both the Nagasaki Museum and History tour and Ground Zero and the Atomic Bomb Museum were 3.5 to 4 hours for $110. Then the Atomic Bomb Museum and Mt. Inasayama Viewpoint was 5 hours for $140. Arita porcelain and Nagasaki Peace Park was 7 hours for $245, while Saikai Bridge and scenic 99 islands was 8.5 hours for $230. Accessible Nagasaki was 5 hours for $350.
We have taken the tours that included the Atomic Bomb Museum and the Peace Park as well as a tour to Glover Garden. The museum and park were understandably upsetting, but the garden was delightful. So today, we decided to return to Glover Garden, where we saw the park 24 years ago on this very same ship. We liked it then, and knew we would like it more today.
Leaving the ship around 10am, we discovered there was no cruise terminal and access to town was easy. We stopped at the info table on the pier for maps and directions. When we asked one of the older Japanese guides about where we could find pizza, his reply was “we’re not Italian here” and laughed as he did not know where to find Italian cuisine. Wrong answer, a young Japanese gal came over and suggested that we might find that in the Wharf area, a better answer.
From here, we turned right going past the expansive Nagasaki Seaside Park and coming out at one of the main streets in downtown. We mixed with dozens of Princess folks all dressed for the rain with umbrellas and plastic ponchos. Most were lining up to take the streetcar to some sights in town. We soon discovered that the street signs also had arrows pointing to major sights within easy walking distance. We happened to pass by the Confucious Shrine and Historical Museum of China. There was a fee, but there were no people inside at all. Maybe it was too early, so we kept going.
Our destination was the Glover Garden. Following a side street, we came across a corner restaurant called Ali Pizza. How about that? As well as other starters and entrees, their menu showed up to 20 varieties of pizza and they also had draft beer. A small restaurant, it would open close to noontime and we decided it would be a good place for lunch. We would come back…..
Miraculously, we made our way to the bottom area of the Glover Garden entrance by following a couple of elderly Japanese ladies who were headed in that direction. We discover a small funicular elevator , called Glover Sky Road that took us up five stories above the town. There were extremely steep stairs going up, but no way would we want to do that. We came out at a viewing platform where there was an elderly rest home nearby. Wrapping around the bend we found another lift taking us to the top and the entrance to the Garden. It was the toll gate #2 entrance where we paid 1300 yen ($8.18 USD) fee per person which included a free photo somewhere in the gardens.
We did recall touring here in 2002, but with limited time to really take it all in. This historic garden with homes dating back in the 1800’s is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and well-deserved for the cultural and historical elements it portrays. We spent nearly three hours starting from the top using their detailed map with excellent information. The only problem was that the printing on this map was infinitesimally small and hard to read. Or maybe our eye site isn’t as good as it used to be. Back in our room, we would be able to use the magnifying glass to get all of the details. There were a total of ten buildings to visit as well as enjoy the gardens, ponds, outdoor cafe and fountains as we went down slowly to each level. Four unique homes were constructed here for the Glover, Ringer, Walker and Alt families. All from Europe, these men were responsible for establishing businesses that sparked the export trade operations. Some were tied to beer, hoteliers, advanced fishing techniques, and tea products.
Right outside of the Glover mansion, we posed for a free fun photo using the coupon we had been given. Normally we would not take the time to do this, but the black & white photo was more of a postcard size. Looks like we were part of the 1800’s. Of course, they had 4x6 photos in color to purchase for 2000 yen. We preferred the free one instead….more authentic. We have to add that the restrooms were well appointed with the fancy pushbutton toilets with heated seats. Another how about that? Located all through the gardens as well as all around town, were vending machines full of popular beverages as well as water. They took coins or credit cards. Easy peasy…..
We have to add that touring this complex was rather strenuous due to the steep incline of the hillside. There were wheelchair paths, but even those were steep and slippery in the wet weather. Coming out at the main gate #1 at the bottom, we passed by a street-full of boutique shops, cafes, and the Oura Church. This was described as a hauntingly beautiful Catholic Church, Japan’s oldest, commemorating early Christan missionaries and hidden believers during religious persecution. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but there was a fee of 1000 yen to enter. Standing at the base of the steep stairs to go into the church, one of us decided they would have to pay me 1000 yen to tackle those stairs. Many tourists turned away not wishing to pay for something that has always been free to see a Catholic Church. We did the same, having seen it 24 years ago. Back onboard later, we searched the reason for the fee and found that there was a little museum on the property and therefore, they could charge for the entrance. Whether or not you visited that museum, it did not matter.
Wrapping around the hairpin corner, we saw a larger brick-built church that was opened. Going inside, there was a flight of stairs to the second floor to see the interior. Only one of us did it, and came back with pictures. Good enough for me. We continued down the steep street passing through a bakery with nicely- packaged treats for sale. There were two young Japanese girls buying some cakes and cookies that were put in a fancy paper bag. The salesgirl added a plastic cover to keep that bag dry in the rain that was starting to fall now. We had lucked out and never had more than a mist up in the Garden, although we heard that it rained heavily at the pier.
Time for lunch, we located the pizza café where we started with two draft Asahi beers and a Margherita pizza to share. The pizza was delicious, but more on a personal size. So we ordered another one to share. It was wonderful being able to sit and talk about what we just saw today. And the café was not crowded with only one other couple in there around 1pm.
Heading back to the ship, we were back onboard by 3pm and spent the remainder of the day working online and taking copious notes on our exploits for the day.
Dinnertime had Japanese cuisine that included a beef tataki starter and chicken teriyaki with ginger-fried rice and stir-fried broccoli. Both good. Dessert was light with jello and fruit.
Illusionist & mentalist Andrew Lee was the entertainment this evening. We doubt he filed the lounge because a lot of people were off the ship and probably out to dinner. We did notice that the Diamond Princess was gone sometime between 5 and 6pm.
So much for day one in Nagasaki and looking forward to one more day here.
Bill & Mary Ann
