It was a very cold and rainy morning when the Zaandam arrived at Hubbard Glacier this fine Sunday. The temperature was 43 degrees, with 99% humidity, and winds of 3.1 mph. Looking out our veranda door, we saw an extremely dark horizon with seas the color of glacier melt. There were white caps due to the winds and swells. And there was fog.....not the best for glacier viewing. The plan for the morning was vague as it was printed in the Daily newsletter. The bow was opened at 8am and would remain open until 12:30pm. Scenic cruising commentary by travel guide, Holly, began around 8am. Which happened to be our breakfast time. Once again, we were all reminded to keep our things from blowing overboard, and please do not feed any animals or birds we might see. Not a problem, we saw no wildlife and only a handful of birds.
The speed limit arriving to this massive glacier was slow, so we did not actually arrive at the face until closer to 10am. We were the only cruise ship there today. From our veranda, we could hear the snap - crackle- pop of the bergie bits, brash ice, and growlers as we passed through them. Reminded us of Rice Krispies. In the distance, we could hear the thunderous sounds of glacier ice cracking. And the ship was still far away from the face of the glacier for us to see any possible calving. At that point, the face was still shrouded in fog.
Only a small crowd of people braved the rain and cold to watch from the bow and deck six forward. One minute outside, and you were soaked as Bill found out by going to the front on deck six. Here are some facts about Hubbard Glacier. It is the largest tidewater glacier in North America with an ice field 76 miles long. Located in eastern Alaska, the glacier flows into Disenchantment Bay near the town of Yakutat. The face of Hubbard is 6 miles wide with ice that rises up to 400 feet tall above the water. The depth of the water at the face is between 200 and 250 feet deep. There are no roads that come here, so the only access is by boat, cruise ship, or scenic flights. There are a couple of small expedition boats that offer day tours from $250 to $360 per person. There are no zodiac landings allowed here.
Once the Captain got us within a mile of the face, we realized how massive this glacier is. Very impressive, we learned that Hubbard is advancing, not receding. Now the best part we saved until last. Just as we reached the far end of the ice, it began to calf. Not once or twice, but several times. It looked more like bombs exploding as the ice and snow hit the water below. Once we heard the thunderous cracking, the calving was extremely fast. If you blinked, you missed it. We were thrilled to have witnessed this activity finally and were ready with the camera just in case - capturing some good shots. Before 11am, the Captain slowly left the ice-filled waters and headed towards the opening of this tidewater glacier.
We did see some birds flying in the area of the bay. Most were different types of gulls, but then we did see a couple of boobies. They appeared to be brown boobies, a bird we usually see everywhere else but here. There may have been some eagles, but they tend to fly high and with the fog, would be hard to film.
The Captain came on with his noon talk reporting a wonderful morning of glacier viewing. He was happy to report that he and the pilot had gotten within a mile of the face. Now we will have 288 nautical miles from the Yakitat Bay to reach Valdez tomorrow, where he will drop anchor and tender us to shore. He warned us that we can expect up to 15 foot waves this evening and advised us to be most careful. He also ordered all the outside decks to be closed from noontime onward. The polar bear plunge was cancelled, not that we would do it. And the planned entertainment by the singers and dancers would be moved to tomorrow due to the high seas. The string ensemble, Vivace would play in the World Stage tonight.
We kept busy processing hundreds of photos and doing research for the blog. During the course of the afternoon, the clouds did break up revealing patches of sun. And as promised, the waves did increase causing the ship to list in a long roll. We ordered a salad and a couple of sandwiches from room service for lunch. We understood from the waiter that they were very busy this afternoon. This held true for dinnertime when Liberty mentioned room service was slammed. Most of us looked like drunken sailors just getting to our tables.
A few new items showed up on tonight's menu such as shrimp taco starters and arugula salad with squash and pumpkin seeds. It is really good with their balsamic vinaigrette. Mains were chicken Parmigiana with spaghetti and a pork chop with an added baked potato and toppings. We shared one small slice of carrot cake. Hope the rain lets up for our stop in Valdez tomorrow - a first time visit for us.
Bill & Mary Ann
