"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report # 24 Easter Island, Chile January 21, 2014 Part One Tuesday Mostly sunny, 77 degreesFishing boat at anchor

Miss the last boat? You are here for a looong time.

Easter Island has to be one of the most remote and isolated places on earth. It is also one of the most mysterious islands we have ever visited. Where else can you find evidence of a civilization that utilized so much of their time carving giant statues called moais that were placed along the coastline mostly facing inland? Were these statues placed as guards to protect the inhabitants from outside forces, like a parent would guard their children? To date, there are around 900 moais around the island and also in the quarry. Perhaps if their natural resources had not been depleted, more of the native islanders, the Rapa Nui, would have survived to explain the mysteries of this island. And perhaps the work of the UNESCO World Heritage Site will uncover the true meaning someday in the future.

Sunrise on the southern tip of Easter Island

Sunrise at 7:43am

Getting pretty

The island is a mere 15.3 miles long and 7.6 miles at its widest point. Being of volcanic origin, there are three freshwater crater lakes, but no permanent streams or rivers. On Easter Sunday in 1722, a Dutch explorer happened across this island quite by accident, while searching for another island. Today, the largest town on the island is Hanga Roa. They have several restaurants, cafes, bars, a museum, bank, hospital, and a church. It is also the spot where we tendered for the ship or independant tours. Or folks like us that were on their own. Since this is our sixth visit to the island, we knew we could navigate our way to see several moais from the pier. It was a long walk, but we were up for it. No, we really needed it.

Motu Kao Kao, the needle-shaped islet

Locals from Easter Island, including some postal workers

Anxious passengers

Seen better days

Treacherous coastline

Our last visit here almost did not happen. The dangerous swells in the ocean caused the tendering service to stop after 1pm. If we had not insisted on our priority tendering service, we would not have made it to shore. There had to be a better solution to their tendering procedures. So here was the plan for today, as was announced in the newsletter. The handful of President Club members onboard were informed last night that they would get priority tendering, mixing with the tour groups going ashore. Everyone else had to get a tender ticket outside the Wajang Theater. Those that had a booked tour would get their stickers and proceed down to the gangway when they were called. They did not need tender tickets. Now we could have gone down to the Wajang an hour earlier, like at 7am, to wait in line, but what was the rush to get over there? Some independent passengers had pre-booked trips, and did need to get to the pier to meet up with their guides. Not us. We were our own guides for the day.

We ended up with tender group # 20, which was called about 9:15am. Boarding the tenderboat was a breeze. So was the 10 minute ride to shore. The seas were the calmest we have ever seen, which was great. Upon debarking the boat, we handed in our customs and agricultural affidavit to the officials, who also took the time to search our handbag. We knew better than to bring any fresh fruit, or sandwiches, or any food for that matter. Risking a steep fine would not be the way to start our day here. You would be surprised how many people still bring the bananas or oranges with them.

Treasures of the island

Several tables of souvenirs were set up as we made our way from the boat to the main road. The main items were t-shirts, cement moais, island jewelry, and everything that represents Rapa Nui. We would have plenty of time to look on our way back. Minivans and private cars were filling up with passengers as we worked our way to the road.

Our hike began around 9:30am and took us by hostels, restaurants (not open yet), private houses, and one very rocky shoreline. The waves were pounding against the volcanic rocks on the seawall. About a mile up the road, we spotted many surfers trying their luck riding the waves, but well away from the boulders which could cut them to ribbons. Believe us when we say that surfing here is for the young and very fit.

Ahu Riata and the Amsterdam anchored

Colorful fishing boats

Bill with the ship in backround

A hotel Easter Island style

A clever concrete statue

Modern art

What is it anyway?

The setting for the Maori Tupuna Show

More local art

Not a real moai

Modern art once again

Resembles the tight fist symbol from Brazil

Moai in town

Once through the heart of town and past the cemetery, we began seeing many moais on their ceremonial platforms. Busloads of tourists were being led by their guides to the main moai groups and given long detailed explanations of what they were seeing .

All the horses are branded

Scattered in the fields were grazing horses. Even large dogs ran in and among them. These smallish horses are allowed to roam freely to graze anywhere they please. All seem to be branded, and do belong to the locals. We've heard the rumor that these horses are sometimes eaten on this island, and we are sure it is true. There has to be a way to control their numbers.

This horse is going nowhere

Horses were tethered together

Feisty dog taunting the horse

Horses do the damage to the turf

Native art

Volcanic rocks

Local birds

Humorous carving in someone's frontyard

Fisherman's Wharf in Hanga Roa

An ancient platform

Surf's up

Moai suffered much wind damage - Ahu Ko Peka Ta'e Ati

Ahu Hotake

Ahu Hotake and platform

Platform of moai at Tahai

Mary Ann at Tahai

The only restored moai with eyes of coral

Moai of Tahai

Picturesque harbor

Beautiful scenery everywhere you look

The walking trail continued all the way to the northern tip of the island where it ended at lovely Anakena Beach. On two previous stops to the island, we have made our landing at this beach, because we were unable to use the regular pier. It sure would have been nice to go to the beach, but from where we were, it would have been a prohibitive walk that would have taken way too much time. If we ever come back, that may be the area we wish to spend the day.

Water break

Even though we had brought a large bottle of water with us, dehydration was setting in. The idea of sipping an ice cold beer or two was getting stronger and stronger.

Te Moana, the good restaurant

So we backtracked towards town and stopped at the nicest looking restaurant in Hanga Roa. Te Moana sits right on the water's edge, is open-air with most seating facing the ocean. Right down the cliffside we could watch several locals surfing the crashing waves. We ordered local Chilean beers, Escudo. They were great. Then we shared an order of large tempura shrimps with Japanese dip and sweet and sour sauce. Our waitress brought a platter of lime-marinated salsa with slices of fresh French bread. It wasn't a huge lunch, but certainly delicious. Pricey? Yes, but since we did not pay for a tour, we felt we could indulge here.

Escudo, Chilean beer

Tempura shrimp and dips

French bread and salsa

Outdoor dining

Convenient bar and tables on the patio

Ready for the dinner service

Actually, it was mentioned in our Companion to Easter Island booklets that the only other area of the world with prices so high as here is Tahiti. Debatable for sure. By the way, we discovered that the personalized signature inside the covers of the books was from the author, James, not J for Jonathon, as in Captain Jonathon.

Another excellent excuse to stop on the way back was at the ice cream kiosk in the center of town. The navigation officer we met last night, Dorus, happened to be eating a cup of ice cream as he greeted us along the way. He said it was great and the girl took US dollars. We could not resist the vanilla and mint chip, even though they were $4. each. Many wooden benches along the roadside provided some needed places to enjoy the sweet treat.

Once back at the pier area, we found a number of guests watching the water around the many small fishing boats tied to the dock. Swimming in and among the boats were schools of fish, followed by large turtles. We are not positive, but they sure looked like the green turtles we saw in Kona last fall. They were not going after the fish, but interested in the bait the locals were using to hook the small fish. Looked like bits of white bread to us. The usual diet of the turtles is algae, which was plentiful in this protected tiny harbor.

Big fisherman and mom

Trying to catch these tropical fish

A younger version

Turtle...may be a green turtle

Turtle under the boats

Looking for something

It was near 4pm by the time we decided to go back to the ship. While waiting for the next tenderboat, we checked out the many tables of Easter Island treasures. The most usable item was a t-shirt, so that was all we purchased. Continuing on with the new process of tendering here, we were given a tender number, even though there were only a handful of folks waiting in the chairs on the dock. At least, there were dozens of folding seats to keep the waiting passengers in the shade and comfortable. This is one of the least popular things we have to do when tendering. People can get so testy and sometimes nasty. To help us out, the staff always offers chilled washcloths and a cup of ice water, tea, or juice. Today, we had chilled pineapple juice....perfect.

Here come the big waves

The boat pulled alongside the pier, and we piled inside.....all eight of us. How nice is that? They left immediately, and we were back in 10 minutes. It was apparent that the winds were picking up as we watched the huge waves pound the rocks on the coastline. At least, the conditions held up all day and none of the transfers to shore or back to the ship had been cancelled.

Winds were getting stronger

Tenderboat ride

Entrance to the ship

Look at the deep blue color of the water

By 5pm, all were back onboard, except the last two tenderboats. The Captain announced that he had to do a wheelie with the ship in order for the sailors to get the boats lifted. The winds by now were blowing a gale. It took some time, before we were heading west, into the sun, and on or way towards Pitcairn Island. Everyone we talked to at the sailaway had a most memorable day on this island, especially those, like our tablemates, who had this place on their bucket list for many years. Oddly enough, they had encountered a good rain shower while at the quarry. Did they have umbrellas......no, but they dried off eventually. And when we went back to our room later, we had Easter Island certificates to prove we were here once again....actually for the sixth time.

Getting ready to leave

One last look

There go the islanders

Fishing boat at anchor

Sailaway....very windy

Heading west once again

Every single one of us was worn out at dinnertime, except for Barb, who had chosen to stay onboard today. For the first time this trip, not everyone was happy with their entrees. One of the fish choices turn out to be a bad choice. They always look good, but you can never tell for sure. Our nice waiter offered to bring two of our group new entrees, but they chose to fill up on rolls instead and dessert too. We discovered that it is not a great idea to ask for the outside cut of prime rib. It came so dry, you could not cut it with the steak knife. Most times, that cut of meat is well-seasoned and cooked medium, still tender. Not so today.

With an extra hour of sleep tonight (due to the clocks going back one hour), we are sure everyone is thankful..... especially the crew, who worked hard getting us over and back safely today. A very memorable day, except for the one couple who were sent to the hospital in an ambulance. That makes four people from our travel group that have had to go to the hospital or back home due to medical problems.