"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #28 Savusavu, Vanua Levi, Fiji October 22, 2016 Saturday Partly cloudy & 84 degrees 84 Pictures Part 1 Of 3

Our first stop in Fiji was on the island of Vanua Levi, and the small village of Savusavu. We have been here once before, but we estimate it had to be over 11 years ago. Back then, we always did a tour if we had not been to the area before. And since Fiji is known for fire dancing, we chose an excursion that took us up into the mountainside to a lodge. While enjoying a Fijian-style lunch, local entertainers performed with batons dipped in oil, then lit on fire. It was quite a show.

So today, we chose to stay in town and explore on foot. There is no dock here, so we had to use tender boats to get ashore. Looking out our window early this morning, we saw that the rain clouds were thick. Rain seemed a huge possibility. For that reason, we skipped breakfast, and went over on the first boat. Can't say we don't mind getting this priority, because the method is done "out of sight" of the rest of the passengers. There were only four of us, so Christel escorted us down the secret staircase near her office.

They had a few chairs set up for us while we waited for the platform to be set up. Took over a half hour, but while we waited and watched the process, the officials from Savusavu came onboard the ship. As they passed us, each and every one of them said "Bula", the Fijian greeting meaning hello and welcome. These folks are so friendly. Then it was our turn to board, along with the crew and the shore supplies. Only one other couple came with us, taking their compact bikes with them.

The ride was very short as we made our way around several nice catamarans and yachts that were anchored in the sheltered harbor. It took some maneuvering to get the boat lined up for us to debark. There was a floating walkway to the old copra shed, now a restaurant and shops. Locals were handing out maps of the town and surrounding resorts. This town is still a copra town with a processing mill near the bottom of the bay. What brings the tourists here are the beautiful waters and the excellent snorkeling, diving, sailing, and fishing.

Numerous stalls were set up along the roadside, full of treasures…..carvings, clothing, jewelry, and lotions of coconut oil. Buses were lined up to take the folks on tours, most all of them 3 to 4 hours. Close by was the open-air market with produce grown locally. Taro root, coconuts, mangoes, bananas, chili peppers, tomatoes, squash, and cabbage were the main items being sold. Small pineapples were being sold….the ones we heard were excellent. We would have bought some bananas, but none of the vendors would take US dollars. There was the option of buying Fijian money onboard the ship, but usually, they will take dollars. All of the street vendors gladly took it. The rate was 2.03 Fiji dollars to 1 US dollar. However, when they did the math, they wanted much more than ½ their amount. We can understand making up the difference they have to pay for converting the money, but some were obviously taking advantage of the situation. The same type of silky pareos went from $10 to $40, depending on where you went. Go figure.

We located a walkway along the water's edge, but it ended way too soon. The only option for walking was the only main road in town with no sidewalks. So we popped in and out of the many shops, noticing that most of them were either Indian or Chinese run. The main store, Jack's, even had a section selling Indian saris and ladies jewelry. Best to wait for the real deal in Mumbai next year, as these items were pricey.

Just about every person in town, including the kids, said bula, bula to us. We responded in kind. Walking to the other end of town took some more time, but if we had continued onward, we would have ended up passing many private resorts. One of the most famous ones here is Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort. We met him several years ago while on another cruise in the Med. Actually it was in Funchal, where we rode the same gondola to the sleds on the mountainside. We can see why he chose this island to build a resort, since he is so closely tied to the water and the treasures they hold.

After four hours of exploring, we decided to go back to the ship. It was too early for lunch onshore, and truthfully, we only saw one place where we would have eaten. That was right at the Copra Shed and the tender landing. All the seats were taken by the time we got there. The boats were loaded with guests coming over to shore, so it took a while for them to debark.

It appeared that the last of the tender tickets were still being handed out, because the table for the ticket collection was still set up. The ship's gal taking the tickets said she was running short….looks like some of the folks were pocketing the tickets for future use. The problem with that is that they changed colors, so today's blue might change to red on the next tender operation. They are one step ahead on this one.

Our intentions were to use our complimentary Pinnacle Grill lunch today, but we were both feeling under the weather. The dining room was closed, which happens often while the ship is in port. The Lido is always open, but we seldom dine there. So it was room service burgers again. Three days in a row of time changes sort of caught up with us, it can drain your energy.

It did rain off and on all afternoon, but the sail away still took place at the aft pool deck. Twinkle, the assistant beverage manager, joined us and said many guests were going to the Crows Nest as well. Of course happy hour was 4-5pm, and that always draws a crowd in the Crows Nest. So far on this cruise, the only happy hour deals are limited to 4-5pm and 9-10pm.

While we sailed away from the island, one fellow guest broke out his saxophone, and played some tunes for everyone. A very happy group at the Seaview Bar joined in singing to his music. That reminded us that the "live" music has disappeared from the sail aways. And there may be rules that will shut this guest down. We have seen that in the past when a friend of ours who played his trumpet at any given time, was asked to stop. Come to think of it, he was insulted, and has not come back for a long time.

The sun set behind a bank of clouds, which still looked full of rain. It was down right after 6pm, correctly printed in the daily newsletter today. Appears that our speed was very slow, since we are close to the next port of Suva.

Dinner found many different entrees on the menu. Since most all of the fresh produce is all but gone, the menu had to be changed to include some kind of cabbage side to each meal. Isn't it funny that your craving for something becomes intense when there is a shortage? That is the case for lettuce, or any other type of green vegetable. It is obvious to us that buying locally is not an option. There is always the fear of tainted produce as well, nothing that would bother the locals, but might put the passengers and crew at risk for gastro-intestinal maladies. Heaven forbid…….

We saved a little room for dessert, which for us was a pumpkin muffin, full of nuts and tiny chocolate chips. Drizzled over it was an intensely spicy sauce with cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. Really good.

Our table was the last to leave, just in time for the show in the Queens Lounge. Jim Curry sand the tunes of John Denver along with the help of Anne Curry, we assume his partner. Reports of last night's show were all positive. Tablemate Bill said he was able to stay awake for most of it. His wife Sylvia said he could sleep through anything, and usually does, like it or not. This show was a combo of the BBC series Frozen Planet, accompanied by the ship's orchestra. Everyone was impressed.

No time change tonight…….thank goodness.

Bill & Mary Ann

Our tender boat driver