"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #29 Suva, Vitu Levu, Fiji October 23, 2016 Sunday Sunny & 88 degrees 83 Pictures Part #1 Of 3

Remember we mentioned that certain days of the week were worth mentioning in the title of the blog? Well, that applies today, since we happened to be here in Suva on a Sunday. Not the best choice for the tourists, Sundays are a religious day, a day off, period. Understandable, we also recall many, many years ago, that Sunday was a church day, and a day of rest. Where we come from, that has changed. However, here in the South Pacific, it seems that time has stood still.

The Amsterdam sailed into the port of Suva, the capital city of Fiji since 1882. Old Suva was part of the British Empire at one point in history, and it has retained much of the influence in its architecture. Modern Suva is highly multi-cultural and has the look of a bustling city. It is full of shopping malls, restaurants, and night clubs, as well as traditional farmers markets.

It is the cultural aspects dating back to the colonial days that hold our interests. So once we were cleared by the local authorities, we went to breakfast first. We suspected that nothing much would be open before 10am anyway. Bill went down the gangway and got a map, and happened to talk to a local guard on the pier. He confirmed what we expected……most everything was closed today. The biggest disappointment for us was that the produce market was closed. This one is the largest we have been to in all of Fiji, darn. The nearby flea market was completely gone. The property was fenced off and being renovated by the Chinese. They have a major foothold in many of the South Seas islands we have noticed. Chinese money is responsible for many island improvements.

Other changes happened due to being here on Sunday. Ship's tours that involved going to traditional villages were re-directed. The firewalkers do not perform today, and the village was closed we heard. So the folks that paid from $110 to $150 got a ride around the city, and a visit to the museum. Probably the guests that booked the longboat ride and waterfall swim made out better for $180, which included a box lunch. Since we have taken every tour here in previous visits, we were on our own today.

After passing by a slew of taxi drivers offering tours, we passed perhaps five tables of souvenirs on the way to down town. Besides Jack's, the local department store, this would be our only chance for wood carvings or trinkets. Downtown was almost a ghost town this morning. McDonalds was open, but that was about it.

Once past the shopping area, we found our way to the coastline walkway. Eventually, it led to Albert Park, a huge soccer field with government buildings and a clock tower. Across from this park is Thurston Gardens and the Fiji Museum, which houses cannibal-era exhibits and also the rudder from Captain Bligh's Bounty (Mutiny on the Bounty fame). The park is a lovely respite with old growth trees and monuments from the past. It was here that we ran into Tom M, our host, who was guiding the complimentary tour that was offered. He told us that most of their itinerary had been cancelled as well, and a visit here was all they could do. Glad we took the shipboard credit instead.

Continuing down the road, we passed the palace grounds that was guarded by the Guard of Honor, who stands at attention in his uniform for hours at a time. Has to be leftover tradition from the British days. Good thing they wear the lavalava sarongs….good ventilation. We followed the seawall until we ran out of sidewalk. Eventually, we came to a mangrove river and the road split, heading inland. Time to head back.

Retracing our steps, we stopped across from the palace to watch two massive trees that were full of hanging fruit bats. We suppose that these trees were full of fruit for these bats to eat. You could hear their screeches if you listened close enough. Otherwise, there was little activity with these creatures.

Our destination was the Grand Pacific Hotel facing the Suva Harbor. Back in its time, this iconic hotel was the place to visit. Quite proper in the British sense, this hotel, built around 1914 we think, was the highlight of the city. Visited by royalty over the years. However, time was not kind to the hotel, and eventually it fell into ruin. We heard that until the last five years or so, the building was reduced to a shell, and occupied by the homeless. It was leveled and rebuilt to its former glory. What used to be an English garden extending from the hotel to the water's edge, now it is a most beautiful and inviting pool. A cabana bar is built on one side and has convenient restrooms for the guests and visitors alike.

We were welcomed into the spacious atrium by the friendly doorman, who greeted us with a robust "bula". Out on the covered patio, we were seated with a view of the harbor that included a most pleasant breeze. We ordered Fijian Gold, the local beer, along with one hamburger and a beef schnitzel sandwich on focaccia bread. One came with the usual fries, while the beef sandwich was accompanied with fingers of breaded and deep-fried taro root. All of the flavor came from the spicy breading, with the taro remaining almost tasteless. Not like a potato, it is the root vegetable we have seen in all of the produce markets on all of the islands we have visited. Now we can say we have tried it. We probably could have gone without the ice cream for dessert, but it was so good. Have to admit, we had a two hour lunch, unhurried, and most enjoyable. Some folks from the ship were also there, actually crew members taking advantage of the cool water in the pool. Best place to swim, since with all of this waterfront, we saw no one in the water swimming. Could have something to do with the sewer pipes we saw coming in from the city.

Time to go back to the ship. All aboard was 5:30pm, but we returned by 4pm. One of the local lady vendors on the roadside was happy to make us a deal with some costume jewelry. Yesterday, a P&O ship was in port, and we heard they expect another ship tomorrow. The markets will come back to life for them.

Before the ship left, we heard music and singing outside on the dock. Looking out our window, we found the marching band was actually marching up and down the length of the ship, performing for us. At the same time, the Oceania Dane Theater was performing in the Queens Lounge, or at least we think they were. They may have cancelled as well.

We attending the sail away, hoping for a good sunset. But it did not happen…..too many rain clouds on the horizon. At least it did not rain today.

Back at our room, we found another log of the cruise. We did not know that Apia was the end of a segment, and the start of another one. Thought we spotted some new folks at sail away tonight. So far, we have traveled a distance of 6,734.5 nautical miles to Apia, Samoa. That translates into 7,745 statute miles. That is a lot of miles and we are still in the mighty Pacific Ocean.

Dinnertime found only four of us at our table. For a change, it was nice to visit with Annie and John, giving us a chance to get to know them better. We have learned much from them, since they have lived in many places around the world. Being in the military, 22 moves were involved in their lives. From most couples we have met, we think they win the prize for the most moves. All of us had the Hong Kong Tsao's chicken entrée. The closest they could come to a salad tonight was shredded carrots with citrus slices. Our waiters promise that salads will be back on the menu tomorrow as long as we get our produce delivery. Hope so.

Bill & Mary Ann

The pier in Suva