"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #39 Vaitape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia November 1, 2016 Tuesday Partly sunny & 88 degrees Part 1 Of 2 86 Pictures

Have you ever been on an island that is estimated to be over 7 million years old? Well, that would be Bora Bora in French Polynesia, our port of call today. The island itself is 5 ½ miles long, and 2 ½ miles wide. What makes it unique is that this island is surrounded by a string of islets, called motus. There is only one navigable entrance at Te Ava Nui pass. A huge lagoon with water the color of turquoise to sapphire blue surrounds the island. Add to this scene are waving coconut palms and white sandy beaches, and you have the recipe of the tropical dream. It has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Two volcanic peaks dominate the center of the island. The highest is Otemanu at 2385 feet, while Pahia is 2168 feet high. About 9000 friendly islanders live here, most of whom are in the guest industry. You can find some of the most elegant hotels and resorts here, some only accessible by boat.

The airport is located on one of the longer motus, and there is a ferry that will bring folks to the town of Vaitape for free. Much of the infrastructure was built during WWII by the US troops, who used this island as a fuel stop off. Some remnants from that time are still present such as the cannons and bunkers, now almost concealed in the jungle growth.

There were several tours offered here, but the most extravagant ones were an overnight stay in at the Pearl Resort either in a garden bungalow ($1100 per person) or over-the-water bungalow ($1300 per person). Wow.

Two land tours were a 4 wheel drive ride for 3 ½ hours and a 2 ½ hour drive around the island (20 miles). These were reasonably priced. For water and adventure tours, they ran from 1 ½ to 3 ½ hours and included a glass bottom boat, a motu and lagoon/beach trip, or a sting ray and shark swim. We have done all the above on past cruises. Also offered were one and two tank dives from $80 to $210. No lunches were included on any of these excursions.

You would have a cocktail on the sunset boat ride, a 1 ½ hour trip for $150 in the early evening.

By the way, there was another vessel in the bay with us…….the Wind Spirit, a most gorgeous sailing ship. We estimate there may be only 200 passengers onboard her.

We were in no particular hurry to get off at 8am. Good thing, because the officials were very slow to clear us. Then there was another medical evacuation, the fourth one so far on this trip. Luckily, he got priority. It wasn't until closer to 9am before they began calling tender tickets. The tour groups would go off first.

By 10am, the line was short, so we went down with a small group, and went to shore. Hearing that it had rained all day yesterday, we were pleased to see sunshine today. Although, it was going to be quite warm and humid.

Right behind the arts and crafts center, we climbed into the back of an open-air truck with benches for a $5 per person ride to Matira Point, probably a 5 or 6 miles ride. Maybe more. There is the Intercontinental Resort situated at this point, where you can buy a day pass for 6500 Francs. That included use of the facilities, except the swimming pool. A lunch and beverage were provided as well. Since we were there to stroll the pristine beach, we passed on the pass.

Matira Beach is public, and has everything you need. Restrooms and changing areas are right on the beach, along with a big hut for shade. Taking off our shoes, we walked the beach and surf for over a mile, heading back towards Bloody Mary's and lunch. The nice feature of this walk is that the water is shallow with very little surf. You can walk out from the shoreline, and still be only up to your waist in water.

There were a few things in the water besides some local's families. In and among the rocks, were sting rays. They come into the shallows to fish. When the dive boats began to arrive, these rays automatically go to them. When the snorkelers get in the water off of the boats, they get to feed them squid. So they hone in to these boats like magnets.

Speaking of snorkeling, there was a notice in the shore excursion booklet saying that the use of fins is prohibited in French Polynesia, as they can cause damage to the delicate reefs. Aqua shoes are allowed, and they might provide snorkeling masks, but not all tours do. For that reason, many guests bring their own equipment.

It was hard leaving the water's edge, but the beachfront ended at the ruins of an old resort, possibly Hotel Matira. We believe we heard that a massive hurricane leveled many properties several years ago, and this resort was one of them.

Walking the narrow road carefully, we made our way to Bloody Mary's, a famous restaurant built in 1979. It is a distinct island icon with pretty good food, high prices, but a must to see. There are signs out front showing the famous people that have visited here over the years. Besides movie stars, even princes and kings have eaten here.

Going into the front door, you step right onto a sand floor. Tables are wooden with coconut stumps for chairs. Like we said….unique. Of course, their signature drink is the Bloody Mary, but we always go for the local beer….Hinano. Sure tasted good today. We split a chicken quesadilla with a bowl of skinny French fires. All was excellent. And another new style of their t-shirt was added to the collection.

We caught another shuttle right outside the restaurant, which took us back to town by 2pm. Didn't need any trinkets in the arts and crafts, although one lady that rode in the first shuttle with us, said she was going back for a seashell necklace that was around $200. She asked us if we thought they would take $150, and we said yes, of course. But the trick is to offer $100, then bargain up to $150. Sometimes when you see something special, you have to get it. No two necklaces are alike in this part of the world, as they are all handmade by the locals, mostly elderly ladies. So if you love it, buy it.

Spending the rest of the afternoon with photo work, we were not surprised to look outside and see the rain coming down. Captain Fred had mentioned a 10% chance of rain, and this is very typical in the afternoon. Heavy, hard, and quick-moving. By the time we came outside after 5pm, the skies had cleared. On the horizon, we could see isolated clouds with rain pouring down hard.

At dinner tonight, we thought there would be only four of us. But John and Annie came a little late, but better late, than never. They had not been feeling well today, and had decided not to come to dinner, according to Sylvia, who ran into them earlier. Guess many folks were having trouble with the heat today. We agree, it can be stressful, especially if you don't drink enough. Not only stressful, but dangerous as well.

One of us ordered the traditional Indonesian meal of ristfil (not spelled right), but similar to nasi goring. Rice, chicken, beef , and maybe some pork with veggies. And spicy. One of us had two soups (they are that good), and an entrée salad. Had to save room for desserts of chocolate cake with ice cream and pineapple crisp with ice cream. Annie says she loves our table, since all of us go into a "dessert" trance eating our sweets. Yep, we savor every bite, and thanks to smaller portions, it is not too sinful.

There was no live show tonight, but a movie, The Jungle Book. With all the water tours and shore excursions, we bet the Queens Lounge was almost empty at 10pm. We know we did not go.

Spending the night here, so we hope the weather holds for tomorrow.

Bill & Mary Ann

Arriving to Bora Bora at 6:30am