"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #44 Avatoru, Rangiroa, French Polynesia November 6, 2016 Sunday Sunny & 84 degrees Part #1 Of 3 85 Pictures

Our destination for today was in a different archipelago in French Polynesia – the Tuamotus. It consists of 76 islands and atolls and has a total area of 7720 square miles. There are 250 pearl farms, the number one industry, along with tourism and scuba diving.

The atoll we are visiting is among the largest in the world. Rangiroa is situated 219 miles northeast of Tahiti. Actually it can be compared to a string of pearls, the pearls being the coral motus that surround a massive lagoon in the middle. About 240 motus in Rangiroa are connected by 100 small channels that lead from the lagoon to the Pacific Ocean.

Avatoru is the main village, while the other village is Tiputa. They are separated by the Tiputa Pass, where ships enter the lagoon to drop anchor. Talk about turbulence. This pass is treacherous. However, this rush of water brings fish of all sizes into the lagoon. It is also where bottlenose dolphins like to hang out. Many small boats will take tourists out by this pass to watch for these dolphins.

The population is 2473, give or take a few. Many work in the tourism sector with two hotels and dozens of pensions, or vacation rentals. Many of the locals conduct dive expeditions in this massive lagoon known for its rich wildlife. This particular lagoon is known as a natural aquarium. Jacques Cousteau claimed Rangiroa as the richest lagoon in the world. Up to 300 sharks have been recorded at the wall at Tiputa Pass. Among the reef sharks are also hammerheads. You won't catch us swimming near here. Other industries include black pearl farms, copra, and coconut products.

There is a real feel of isolation here. It is said that you must be part Robinson Crusoe to live here. Modern technology has brought solar energy for electricity and hot water. Although, we did see a huge generator plant by the airport today. Water is a precious commodity, as every means of collection are used. When the rains arrive, everyone has water storage. Last year when we were here, it did rain torrentially. Must fill those storage tanks to the brim.

Here is an interesting fact: Grapes are grown in the middle of a coconut tree plantation here. Who knew? Somewhere around 40 to 50,000 bottles of white and rose wines are produced here. It is called "Vin de Tahiti". We would like to have priced it, but what few stores there were, they were all closed early. Remember, it was Sunday.

There were a few excursions today that included a visit to the pearl farm, 1 ½ hours for $25. The first time we visited here, we walked to the farm, and had the tour for free. Still, at that price, it was worth it…..the hike there was a really long one. There was a glass-bottom boat ride for 1 hour and $80. You could snorkel the wall for 1 hour at $90, or do a one tank dive for $130 – 1 ¾ hours.

We did none of the above. Taking the tender boat when they went to open boats (no tickets) happened by 10am. Funny thing, when they began calling the tickets, they began with number 20, and ended with 30. Crew members told us that too many people were keeping the tickets, thinking they could sneak in the line without waiting. So instead of handing out number 5, they went to #20.

It was already hot and humid, even at 10am. Good thing there was a breeze blowing, or else we would have gone back to the ship, like many people were already doing. We landed within minutes, and were off for a 2 hour walk towards the airport. Besides some souvenir tables, a café, and a little bit of swim area, there is very little here. Actually, this point is not really the village of Avatoru, which is located at least 8 miles down the opposite end of this motu.

Walking from the lagoon to the pass and the ocean, we came across the entrance, where many people were watching for the dolphins. Continuing on the coral-based road, we came upon the largest hotel here, the Kia Ora Resort and Spa. They have some over-the-water huts as well as bungalows on the lagoon side. We planned on stopping here on the way back, as too many ship people were headed there. More than likely, looking for free or cheap internet, and a better place to swim or have lunch.

The only other people that ventured this way were a few folks on bikes. Eventually the long road led us across cement bridges with the rushing waters running into the lagoon. It was necessary to stop and take photos along the way.

The airport is as simple as it can be, with little security of any at all. There was one flight today, and we actually saw the plane land. Once the folks are cleared, the airport closes for the day.

The motu narrowed at many points, where you could see the roaring ocean on the right, and the turquoise-blue waters of the lagoon on the other. There were stretches of abandoned properties, mixed with some concrete and metal-roofed homes. Most of these houses had dogs, who did come out to the road to check us out. There were no "Godzillas" today, thank goodness.

Finally, we came upon the Hotel Maitai Rangiroa Resort, set well back behind a narrow driveway, and buried in coconut and pine trees. It was marked with a small sign, and easily missed if we were not looking. It was created to blend with the environment. Situated right on the edge of the lagoon, we found the restaurant, which by now, at 12:30pm, was opened.

Seated at a table for two at the opened window, we ordered ice cold beers and ham and cheese paninis, complete with French fries, of course. We should have remembered that one entrees was sufficient for both of us, because the grilled sandwiches were at least a foot long. We were only able to finish half of the meal, taking the wrapped halves with us when we left by 1:30pm.

Heading back, we took advantage of every bit of shade and palm tree along the road. At this point, we actually prayed for clouds and rain, but it was not to be. The sun was at our back, and the breeze was around each turn, so the two hour hike was bearable. We did stop at the airport before the doors were shut, and bought the largest bottle of water they sold. We had brought plenty to drink, but our supply was getting low.

About halfway back, a local lady stopped her car, and offered us a ride. She did not speak one word of English, but we did appreciate the offer. Thanking her in French, we declined and stuck it out. At least we were not having a hard time like one elderly lady and her husband who had rented bikes to ride the road. Not as easy as it looks, the poor lady had trouble pedaling her bike with soft tires on the coral-pitted road. Unfortunately, we heard the bike tip over as she hit the pavement with sharp coral. With help from her husband, she was back up, and starting over. Nothing broken. Sometimes, you have to remember this is not the same as being at home.

Arriving back at the pier, we checked out the leftover souvenirs, but nothing really popped out as collectible. The best thing there was the crew member handing out chilled water and lemonade. The tender boat was ready to leave, and we joined it gladly. A few locals were kayaking in our wake, even though the ride was short, they were having fun.

The air-conditioning never felt so good…….everyone agreed, it had been a scorcher onshore. As always, we cooled off in our room, downloading hundreds of photos.

Sail away was close to 5pm, and we watched at the aft deck, sharing our escapade with Denise and Howard. She had snorkeled the wall, seeing some of those sharks too close, while Howard saw almost as much, while relaxing shoreside at the local café on the water. Sailing through the pass, we kept a lookout for the dolphins. We did see a few breaking the surface, but they were fast and disappeared as quickly as they had appeared.

We were now headed for another atoll, the second largest in the Tuamotus, Fakarava. Tomorrow should be a repeat of today, only more laid back if we remember right.

Six of us were at dinner tonight, although not all of us had gone to shore. Prime rib was on the menu tonight, along with the fresh catch of the day. Both were good, tender and served hot.

The entertainers were a familiar group for us…..The Unexpected Boys, with the expected songs of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons. All of us remembered the music well.

Wow, only two more ports left…..where did all that time go???

Bill & Mary Ann

First tender boat to go over