"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report #42 Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia November 4, 2016 Friday Partly sunny & 84 degrees Part #1 Of 4 85 Pictures

Tahiti happens to be the largest island of French Polynesia, and Papeete is the capital city. It is also the primary center of their government, commercial, industrial, and financial services. We have ramped it up beginning in Bora Bora, then more of a city, Uturoa, then a full-blown city, Papeete today.

The total area of Tahiti is 651 square miles with a population of 186,909 people. The highest peak is Orohena at 6790 feet. Agriculture includes the cultivation of coconuts, bananas, taro root, and breadfruit. It is an island of marinated raw fish and sweet fragrances of tiare flowers.

We have made several visits here, going back to the 1990's, and we have seen many improvements in town. Today we noticed that the dock area has finally been completely renovated, a project that has taken several years. The waterfront across from the cruise ship dock has been replaced with cement walkways, replacing the rotting teak boardwalk. A separate path has been created to keep the cyclist away from the walkers. A landscaped park, Paofai Public Gardens, stretches from the cruise ship dock all the way to the public pool area, about a 2 mile hike. We would do this walk later in the day.

Other things to do here include an overnight excursion to Moorea, the sister island of Tahiti. To stay in an over-the-water bungalow, it would cost $1000 per person, or a garden bungalow at $800 apiece. Both hotel stays included a dinner and a breakfast.

Site-seeing tours ranged from 2 ½ hours to 7 hours, costing from $100 to $210. You could see the east or the west coast, or circle the island with a lunch. If water and adventure was up your alley, you could go on a 4 wheel drive trip, or take a catamaran to a snorkel site. If you are really serious, there was a one and two tank dive. These ran from 1 ¾ hours to 4 hours, at the price of $110 to $210. Since the ship was due to leave at 4am tomorrow morning, they offered a sunset cruise for 2 hours for $140. Turned out the romantic cruise was cancelled due to lack of interest or mechanical problems.

Leaving the ship by 10:30am, we made our way to the info center, where the local singers and dancers were performing. Several craft tables were set up under tents here. Many passengers were hovering over the tables, but we knew there would be lots more at the Marketplace.

Crossing the street could be daunting here. But it is not, since when you step into the crosswalk, the locals will all stop for you. We are talking about crossing a seven lane boulevard. There are no stop lights, so you have to depend on the driver's courtesy.

On our way to the market, we always pass several fabric shops. Don't know why this one shop on the corner ALWAYS has the perfect tropical print rayon in their window. Planning on not buying anything, I could not resist the new colors and pattern for a new blouse.

At the marketplace, we strolled the entire bottom level, then went upstairs to check out the t-shirts and jewelry. The market was jumping already with locals buying produce and fish for their daily meal. Everything is sold fresh here, including the pastries, which looked wonderful. To liven things up, a band was playing and a few Tahitian gals were making leis and head dresses. Down on this level, you can find straw baskets, fans, shell jewelry, and an array of cosmetics. Many bottles of monoi oil are sold here……supposedly a miracle ointment. Also big here are flowers. We would have some before the day ended.

Continuing on from the market, we strolled out the back door and went right to the old church, Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Built in 1875, it is very Polynesian in design. A statue of Mary and Jesus is carved in mahogany and stands proud at the front entrance.

Past McDonalds, a most busy restaurant with the locals, we went to the French Polynesia Assembly and attached gardens. Following a meandering stream, we saw displays of all of the indigenous plants and trees of the area. Everything has a description along with a photo. Except much of it is in French, some of what we can read thanks to three years studying the language. The ponds here are full of fish, mostly tilapia. Some koi are mixed in along with at least three 4 foot long eels. They are strange, slinky creatures. At the far end of this garden is a pool with a stream filling it. It has been said that the queen took her daily baths here, with the help of several servants, no less.

We happened to find a display from the Australes happening at this complex. The Australes is one of the archipelagos of French Polynesia, very remote, and much less visited. The natives are famous for their straw weavings including mats, hats, and baskets. Among their display, we found some shell jewelry unique to their style. We purchased a necklace made with several types of unusual seashells and seeds. They were quite willing to bargain as well.

Continuing on to Bougainville Park across the street, we strolled through the trees and creek to the monument to Bougainville with the cannons from his ship. We made our way back past Vaima Centre, the first shopping mall in Papeete with chic boutiques. We kept going since we intended to pick up some flowers at the market before going back to the ship. Found a bouquet of sunflowers to brighten up our room…..a good deal here for $10. Also located a new Hinano t-shirt at a small shop we always go to.

Taking our purchases back home, we worked on photos until lunchtime at 2:30pm. Our favorite pizza restaurant is a mile walk away, so we headed to LaPizzeria, ordering a Margherita pie and two large Hinano beers. Saved a little room for a shared banana split. Going to have to walk many miles to burn off those calories, but it was sure good.

Going back, we followed the waterfront park, watching for tropical fish near the seawall. To our surprise, we found dozens of Moorish idols, tangs, huma-humas, and pufferfish in schools. Hey, this was way better than snorkeling.

Enjoyed another sunset from the aft deck this evening. Since the ship is not leaving until 4am, we figured we had time to go off once again and stroll through the food trucks in the square across from the ship. Last time we were here, it had poured, and our visit was short-lived. Tonight was much nicer as we checked out each venue. There was Chinese, Polynesian, Italian, and American cuisine. All cooked from the backs of trucks or trailers. Picnic benches and plastic chairs were set up in between the trucks and trailers. We have never eaten here, but enjoy seeing what is cooked. It sure is popular with the crew, who head over here after hours.

Dinnertime found six of us present. We sure have nice tablemates. It is always a pleasure sharing our experiences of our days on shore or on the ship. About the time we all got our entrees, Bill (from England) went to use the salt shaker on his meat. The lid came off and all of the salt covered his meal. Oh no…….a reminder that you always have to check those lids. Our waiter Slam, immediately replaced his dinner, apologizing for the accident. Been there….done that.

There was an early, and one-time show this evening in the Queens Lounge. It was a local group called Toahotu Tahiti, a new group we have not seen before. It appeared that this group is tied to Paki, the Polynesia On Location fellow. The dances were typical Tahitian, but not quite the same as the group we had on the grand world voyage. The lounge was packed with just about every guest onboard, so we think everyone enjoyed it anyway.

Tomorrow, we will float over to Moorea, our last island in this archipelago.

Bill & Mary Ann

Arriving to the port in Tahiti….the Wind Spirit was here