The opera Madame Butterfly, written by an Italian, Puccini, was set in Nagasaki. It is one of the great operas in the world. What is most known about this city, however, is the fact that the atomic bomb was dropped here on August 9, 1945 at the end of WWII. The target was not part of the residential area, but a munitions storage instead, we understand. A Peace Park was created from artists from all over the world to commemorate history. Also, the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum exhibits the history of the destruction and re-construction of this fine city. On our first visit here 15 years ago, we toured this sight, and never forgot the experience. Much the same as we had while visiting Pearl Harbor in Oahu, Hawaii. Hopefully, history does not repeat itself.
Today, Nagasaki is a bustling port full of historic spots as well as new skyscrapers. It is clean as a whistle, and the people are most welcoming.
There were five tours offered from 2 to 8 hours for $95 to $235. The longest day excursion was a ride to Fugen Volcano, 62 miles east of the city. There was also a visit to Shimabara Castle with a Japanese lunch after. Our tablemate Ruud took that tour, and really enjoyed it. He said there was not a whole of of walking, which he has trouble doing at times.
Shorter hour tours included Nagasaki history and cultural museum, Ground Zero, Atomic Bomb Museum, and a stop at the Peace Park( the one we took 15 years ago). If you just wanted to see the Peace Park, which contains the Fountain of Peace, and the Peace Statue at almost 32 feet high, then this tour was a good one. Arita Porcelain was an interesting spot to visit, followed by a stop at the Peace Park, then a lunch.
Since we have seen the highlights of all of these tours, we decided to stay close to the ship, and make a visit to the Glover Garden, almost directly across the street from the pier. This morning, we left the ship by 10am, and went directly to the terminal building. There was an information desk set up with at least four people giving information and directions. You could also purchase a 1 day pass for the tram system here. All we needed were maps, and general info for the immediate area surrounding the pier. According to the nice gal we spoke to, we could walk everywhere we needed to go. So we did.
Following the excellent map, we walked across the street and located the walking path that headed towards the gardens. This cobbled street was lined with souvenir shops and some cafes. Climbing the steep wide lane, we ended up at the old Oura Catholic Church, the oldest wooden church and national treasure of Japan. This is the first time we ever saw a charge to go inside a Catholic church, with the exception of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. Even then, we believe we were covered with the tour group. Right across the street, was the newer church, with their doors open. So we went in there instead. A priest was conducting a chorale group, so we did not linger inside very long.
The cobbled road led to the entrance at the Glover Garden, which consists of nine historic western-style buildings. After going up several flights of stairs, we ran into an escalator that took us to the entrance and ticketing building. Right behind us, there was a large group of kindergarteners on a field trip with their ever-watching teachers. They were so cute with their little matching hats and pink backpacks and thermoses. We paid for our tickets (610 Yen or about $5.45 each), then entered the park. There were two moving sidewalks that took us up to the highest point of the garden.
A little history is needed to understand this property. A man from Scotland, Thomas Blake Glover, came to Japan at the age of 21 in 1859. Through ship building, coal mining, and the tea trade, he contributed to the modernization of Japan. Another industry that blossomed here was the brewing of Kirin Beer. Robert Neill Walker, a British citizen, partnered with Glover in the endeavor. Another man, William Alt, introduced the world to Japanese tea. A Brit, Frederick Ringer reigned over foreign trade and worked for Glover & Company. Glover's son, Thomas, introduced trawling in the fishing industry. All five men and their families had homes in this settlement.
These wooden structures and other important buildings are incorporated into a garden which is surrounded with fountains, ponds, Japanese bonsai gardens, and a few public restrooms and tea house and an outdoor snack area.
With a detailed map, we navigated our way to each exhibit, reading every bit of history with each household. Fascinating, we found the period to be intriguing. At the very top of the hillside, there was a dock house, where sailors and ship crews could go while their ships were being repaired. Constructed in 1896, you really got the feel of what life would have been like in this area. To add to the experience, period music was playing in the back round. Most all the music was Scottish, making us feel like you could imagine living here in those days.
Something we found unusual was the fact that many young local ladies were dressed in that period clothing….colonial-looking British silks, satins, with lots of lace. Eventually we ran into the photography studio where this period clothing was rented for ½ hour to wear while in the gardens. Since it was not really expensive, many of the local ladies took advantage of this service. Sure made for great photos for us to take.
We ended up spending three hours here, taking our time, and even enjoying an ice cream break. A small café sold the best creamy softies in a delicate cookie-like cone. This turned out to be our lunch, since we could not locate any restaurant that fit our tastes.
Leaving the garden, we headed north to find the Shinchi Chinatown. The tour guide in the terminal had suggested that we see it. We almost turned around, since it seemed like a very long walk. But we soon realized there were signs on the street corners indicating where these places are located. Once we saw a Chinese portal over the street, we knew we were warm or getting closer.
Sure enough, we found the small Chinatown and walked through all of the shops. There was no lack of souvenirs here. And the streets and cafes were full of people. We came out at a canal where there was a huge display of Chinese figures. Sure got some great photos.
Today we were required to see immigrations for a mandatory departure clearance. It began at 2:30pm, and we did not want to wait until the last minute to clear this inspection. After leaving Chinatown, we found ourselves at the Dejima area. Dejima Island was the only gateway between Japan and the outside world. There are ten old structures here, and the cost to get in was fairly cheap. We even had a coupon given to us in the info center, giving us a further discount. If we had more time, we could have toured it.
Getting back to the pier, we noticed the terminal building was getting really busy. The souvenir stands inside the building were really getting worked over by the passengers. This would be the last chance for anyone to buy something from Japan. There were some nice silk jackets and vests, but they were still over-priced at 50% off. From what we saw, most folks did not hesitate to buy many things, just because it was so easy.
The line was forming for the immigration check. Tour buses had gotten back, and the people that chose to stay onboard today, had to go off the ship and get in this same line. Then you had folks like us that were slowly coming back from a day of exploring. The process was well done with the help of many of the ship's officers, including Henk, Christel, Shiv, and people from the front desk.
The line moved quickly enough, with the officials letting in only a small number of guests at a time. We needed our passports, which we had packed with us all day. The stamp we received in the passport in Osaka was re-checked today before we entered the building. Then it was a similar process like you do at the airport security check. Once through that checkpoint, we lined up to board the ship, and go through security like always. The only difference today was that once we cleared immigrations, we could not go back out the terminal. We were on the ship to stay, which was fine with us.
There was an unexpected surprise waiting for us in our room…specifically the bathroom. In our absence, a new sink and counter top had been installed, replacing the old one that has had a significant crack in it for at least two years. Since it did not leak, we never complained. It was simply an eyesore. The biggest clue that something had taken place was the fact that all of our things we had stored on the shelf under the sink and on the counter were placed in the bathtub. Now we are guessing that when this ship goes into dry dock in 2018, perhaps more of this type of work will be accomplished. It is overdue, especially on the lower decks. We did hear from a reliable source, that continued renovation will be done on the upper decks 6 and 7……all new bathrooms and flat-screen TV's. Of course, they are paying a gazillion dollars for those suites…….
Very hungry by now, we made a sweep through the Lido and picked up some slices of pizza to get us through until dinnertime. Barb and Susie had the same idea, as did many other folks.
We still had to catch up on yesterday's pictures and reports, so that kept us busy until close to sail away time after 5:30pm. Gene announced that the local Japanese Taiko Drum Performance would be taking place shore side, so we grabbed the camera and went to deck nine. Once again, the lower promenade was being used for the sail away celebrations, but knowing it would be too crowded, we kept to the aft of the ship, getting just as good of a view. Even better, we could watch the eagles that were soaring over and around the ship. Following their flight pattern, we soon discovered that they were feeding off of something in the water. Perhaps bits of fish discarded by the fishing vessels.
The sun went down shortly after 6pm. Funny thing……..in the Daily Navigator, it was listed that we had two sunrises – one at 7:02am and the other "sunrise" at 6:06pm. What? Another typing error again. That was like the chocolate dipped strawberries that were supposedly served in the Casino after dinner on Valentine's night. Actually, the location was in the Queen's Lounge. Guess no one checks what is written in this daily newsletter.
As the Amsterdam slowly sailed out of the harbor, we watched to see one of their shipyards where a new ship, the Aida Perla was being constructed. The last time we were in Nagasaki, we saw one of the Princess ships that had been close to being done. Right before we arrived, a fire broke out and the center part of the ship was destroyed. Eventually, it was completed, but the name was changed with that of another future Princess build.
Captain Jonathon had given his talk at sail away, mentioning that as we sailed in a northerly direction, the temperature would be dropping. When we get to Incheon, Korea, he expected lows below zero Celsius. Somewhere in the teens or twenties. Now that is really cold. We sort of thought a gift of mittens, gloves, and caps would be a great idea about now, as many folks probably never thought to bring these with them. There is always hope………
All-in-all, we had a wonderful visit today, as we did in each port in Japan. Despite the cool weather, it has been a nice change of pace from the usual world cruises. Not sure we will feel the same about Korea, if we are freezing. The one time we were there it was in the fall and the weather was mild and warm in Jeju.
One of our tablemates was feeling under the weather with a laryngitis ailment…..lost his voice. We know this has been spreading like wildfire with the passengers and crew alike. Sure hope we don't get it, because our 8 day overland is approaching soon. All you can do is be careful with passing bread or butter, and stay out of the line of coughing. Even standing at the aft deck this evening, we were surrounded with passengers with deep, congested coughs. One of our friends has been cabin-bound for three days now. Viruses on ships can be quite bad…….said with fingers crossed.
Some of the dinner entrees were Japanese-based. Most everyone ordered chicken skewers with rice and veggies, while one of us had the chicken and bread entree salad. It was ample along with a hot, hot, hot bowl of chicken and dumpling soup. On a side note, the soups are now being served in the older heavy soup bowls used for French onion soup. They hold the heat of the food so much better, and now the waiters do not have to pour the broth from a gravy boat. The plate ware that has replaced most of the Rosenthal dinnerware has been chipped and easily broken, so the old plates are coming back. We all say…..break them all, we want the good old plates back. Many of the entrees are served in a bowl-like dish, where your utensils fall into your food. Never fails when you have gravies, and the fork falls off of the edge right into the middle of the food. Life is tough, right?
Everyone did something different today in port, so it was nice to listen to everyone's adventures. Some were good, some were not. Seems that the "bus" etiquette has been challenging recently, as some passengers have no manners whatsoever. That is one good reason we avoid the bus tours.
Sure hope we can catch Barbara's talk on Incheon and Seoul in Korea on TV today. Since this will be our first time there, we would like to know how to get around on our own. The last we checked the channel, talks were on China. Hard to keep up when they are constantly trying to sell tours and DVD's on future ports.
Toni Warne was on stage once again in the Queen's Lounge. What a beautiful voice she has, and a very sweet person as well.
Bill & Mary Ann
The Nagasaki Port
Harbor ships
Ship building dock
Nagasaki's famous bridge in the distance
Harbor boats
Nagasaki Cruise Terminal
Elaborate building at the pier
Ferry landing
Amsterdam docked
Inside the Nagasaki International Cruise Terminal
Samples of Japanese dolls
Flower beds in the city
Typical downtown building
Founding fathers
Ship docked right in town
A tourist area
This is where we are headed
Nice shops
Steep walkway for pedestrians
Shops lined this street
A newer Glover House
Tiny mandarin oranges
The Picture Book Museum
Books for children
Perfect symbol for the book museum
A marker
License plates were about $20. each
Oura Catholic Church on the left
Story of the church
Oldest wooden church, a national treasure
Very helpful streets signs
The new Oura Church
No charge to go inside this one
Catholicism is not the main religion here
Entrance to the Glover Garden
Welcome
The price of 610 Yen ($5.45) was well worth it
Garden fountain on the way up
Nice landscaping
A gatehouse
The map of the garden
This was a sign in the men's restroom
Moving sidewalk or wheelchair escalator
View from the gardens of Nagasaki
An usual statue
Park building
One of many ponds
Fountain
Primroses do well here
Pond turtle
School kids on a field trip
They were so cute
Former Mitsubishi No. 2 Dock House
Kids on their way inside
Looking from the veranda upstairs
A large koi pond in front
Many large koi here
These outfits could be rented
Many young ladies wore these outfits
View of the harbor
The ship was close by
More tourists up here
How cool do they look?
Facilities across the harbor
Surrounded by mountains
Pond turtle
Love the fish
Kids are the same no matter where you go…..curious
Fish were waiting to be fed
Begging
Beautiful in the sun
Various colors
The industrial revolution began with these few men from Europe
Inside the dock house
The school kids posing
The highest point in the gardens
Modern buildings in the distance
An eagle flies over the city
Upstairs of the dock house
Peaceful setting
Bustling city down below
A working port
We could see the ship from here
A place for the sailors to rest
Dining room
A blast from the past
