Did you know that China is the third largest nation in the world in land area? But has the largest population in the world with the longest recorded history. The most significant fact is that China is responsible for many scientific and technological inventions known to man. Back in the earliest days of that recorded history, anyone living outside the walls of the largest Chinese cities were considered barbarians. Some of this explains what we saw today at the Terra Cotta Warriors, as well as the Shaanxi History Museum in Xian.
Since we did not have to meet with our guide until 9:30am, we had time to enjoy another complimentary breakfast in the hotel's Li Café close to 7am. They offer a wide range of international food, which included a full American-style breakfast of omelets, bacon, sliced ham, and sweet rolls. We also added some flavored yogurts and fresh fruit with juice and coffee. Knowing that the day ahead of us would be a busy one, we fueled up properly.
Lucy was in the lobby right on time. Within minutes, our driver was on the way to the outskirts of the huge city for the 20 mile trip to the site. The Terra Cotta Warriors are considered the 8th wonder of the ancient world, built as an underground army to protect the mausoleum for the first Chinese Emperor, Qin Shi Huangdi 200 years BC. This complex is located one mile west of the warriors, but has yet to be un-earthed. What actually exists there is based on what was written at that period of history. But more about that later.
Lucy had one hour to explain the history behind this famous site, which was recently discovered by accident on March 29, 1974. The story has it that a local farmer was digging a well for his crops, when he ran into pieces of clay belonging to what he thought was ancient pottery.
The more he dug, the more pieces of clay he found. Realizing he had stumbled on something more than old ruins, archaeologists began exploring deeper to find the underground ruins of a large army of warriors from the Qin Dynasty, dating back to 210 BC.
We arrived to the site at 10:30am, and were blessed with sort of blue skies and crisp temperatures. No rain or snow today. With all of the factories and coal fueled power plants, there is a constant haze in the air….smog at its worst. Today, at least we could see the Li Shan Mountains, the backdrop of the complex.
After getting our tickets, Lucy escorted us to the oldest and largest of the pavilions that house the warriors. Although we have seen a few programs about the warriors, seeing it up close and personal was most impressive. The hangar-like pavilion that covers this complex is 3.7 acres in area. It is also the oldest of the major buildings, built in 1979. Considering that this complex had been discovered only 5 years earlier, it must have taken an army of workers to complete this dig.
This main vault had 11 columns separated by walls. The actual warriors, horses, chariots, and officers were a mere 15 feet deep in the ground. Each figure was made with clay and sand from the local soil, then dried or baked until they were hard as rock. Their clothing had been painted as well as their faces tinted rosy shades. Once exposed to the air, the clay turned black and the paint oxidized. Wooden timbers supported a roof overhead, covered with straw mats. The entire purpose of this army of warriors was to protect the Emperor, who would eventually be entombed a mile away.
Now a strange thing took place about 4 years after the Emperor Qin died. During the Farmer's Uprising, almost every one of the 7000 or more clay figures were destroyed and the wooden ceiling was burned by fire. Guess this dynasty was not well liked….even more so, his son who succeeded him. Quite a shame, all that was left of this massive army were ruins, broken shards of pottery, that had to be reconstructed piece by piece. What a miracle that the tedious process of restoration has been able to bring back thousands of these figures.
We need to mention that coming here this time of year is considered the off-season. Good for us, the crowd was not a crowd at all. And most all of the tourists are local ones. Those of us from foreign countries are few. None of the exhibits were over-crowded, because Lucy said we would never be able to move freely and get close to the railings in this pavilion as we are doing today. Even at that, we took an hour to explore the entire perimeter of the complex.
Each and every warrior has a different face, at least those with heads. Not all of them had enough pieces to complete the heads, or arms and legs too. Even the horses, which are Mongolian-sized, were different from each other.
After taking one million photos, we moved on to the second and third pavilions. They were newer, one built as recent as 1990. Fewer figures have been uncovered here, but they are still in the process of uncovering more of the army. Many chambers showed the extent of the ruins, pottery in deep piles, with burned beams and ceilings in the mix.
The last building was a small museum that housed among other things, two half size models of bronze chariots, horses, and their coachmen from the Qin Dynasty. Discovered in 1980, these chariots would be used for the Emperor.
Lastly, we were led into a store with many souvenirs, some quite expensive. The largest pieces were almost life-size and made of bronze and jade. Yes, you could have your own Terra Cotta Warrior sent directly to your home for 1000's of dollars. One price tag had 28,000 yen on it, which calculated to $4082, not including shipping. We priced a 12 inch pair of bronze cranes that stood on a turtle. Both are considered good luck for a long life. Regularly, they cost $700, but today, we could purchase the pair for $574. Maybe a good deal, but not for us. We deliberately left little room for souvenirs in our luggage. Our house is already a "museum" of treasures we have collected over the years.
Attached to this shop was a movie arena, where you stood and watched a surround screen all about the history of the warriors. It put all of this information we had just learned in place. The sound effects were more impressive than the grainy film, but it gave you an idea of what life was like back in those days. Violent and scary, you would not have wanted to live there.
Further info on the tomb area, located a mile west of the underground warriors. The entire necropolis is 22 square miles, covered in a mound that is 154 feet high. This was not a natural mound, but since it was surrounded by 12 villages and ½ dozen factories, it was never considered anything of value. However, when the warriors were uncovered back in the 70's, studies were made here. The soil tested extremely high in mercury, and according to written history, the Emperor's tomb was surrounded with a river consisting of mercury. The ceiling of the tomb reportedly had stars made from pearls and precious stones.
It was recorded tht it took 700,000 workers to create this necropolis, taking them 36 years to do so. The building began when the emperor was only 13 years old. The price they paid for their work? Not good, as they were buried alive along with the Emperor's numerous concubines. Perhaps in years to come, more excavation will take place and the entrance to this tomb will be discovered. It will take much money and time to accomplish this.
A funny thing happened at this complex with people selling counterfeit figurines. Lucy warned us that these warriors and horses, about 6 inches in size, were cheaply made at people's farms nearby. She laughed and added that they refer to them as "suicide" terra cotta warriors, because by the time you get them home, they are broken in many pieces. Naturally, we passed them up.
Our final stop here was at the only restaurant near the museum. At a table for three, we enjoyed Chinese noodles, freshly made at this restaurant. They came in a broth or covered with chili. Tried some of both, and was in noodle heaven. Sipping local beer, we eventually had six plates of food served to us. Mostly veggies, there were mixes of chicken, beef, or shrimp. Each one better than the other. We ended the ample meal with a plate full of sweet items. Lucy said we needed the extra calories to walk the long way back to the parking lot and our waiting van.
Once out of the complex, we entered an area of cafes, restaurants, and dozens of shops selling souvenirs. Only taking photos, we never stopped once even to look. Our driver waved to us from the parking lot, and we were happy to climb back in the van for the hour ride back to Xian.
The outskirts of Xian has the housing highrises, along with the polluting coal-fueled power plants. We crossed a major tributary of the Yellow River, which supplies most of the water for this area. We saw few birds anywhere today. Could be that they migrate from this colder weather, or they have been consumed over the years. Fields were empty now, but during the summer, corn is grown. The rest of the year, wheat is planted.
We were back to the city center by 3:30pm, but we were not done yet. We still had a visit to the Shaanxi Lishi Bowuguan History Museum. Opened in 1991, this modern Chinese-style museum displays artifacts from four ancient dynasties. Ming, for porcelain, Qin, for pottery and bronze, Shang, and Zhou for tools, pottery, weapons, and figurines. Some displays even featured Buddhas. All of it told the story of the Silk Road, and the trade that went on between the countries centuries ago.
Very interesting, although we could only spend about 40 minutes here, we absorbed enough to make a complete picture of Chinese history. A lot to take in for one day.
Tired and slightly exhausted, we returned to the Shangri-La Hotel by 4:30pm. Good to be back, and be able to take some time to download photos. Doubt we will be able to post anything, but eventually, it will come through.
By 7pm, we headed to the Horizon Club on the 19th floor. We relaxed for a while, drinking local beer, and snacking on crackers and cheese. All compliments of the room we booked. Going back to the Li Café off of the lobby, we enjoyed another great pizza and a shared burger with fries. This time the burger came with a green salad and a bowl of coleslaw. All was delicious.
Since we need to get up very early, getting to sleep was a priority. We need to check out and meet Lucy and our driver by 5:30am for our flight to Chengdu tomorrow.
Bill & Mary Ann
The lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel in Xian
Spacious lobby
This hotel is only 5 years old
Very modern
Li Cafe
Breakfast items
Mostly Chinese food
Bowls of hot cereal
Jams and jellies
Sausages and pastries
Bagel sandwiches
Everything was labeled
Breakfast meats
Baked ham
Pastries
Li Café 
Fruit pastries
Entrance to the cafe
A wall with a waterfall
Lounge in the lobby area
Place to relax with tea or coffee
Chandeliers 
Entrance to the Terra Cotta Warriors
Place to purchase tickets
Grand entrance
Waiting for Lucy
Ready to enter
Lucky day….few tourists
Mature trees inside the gate
First blooms of spring….a flowering plum tree
Look, a bird
Will ID him when we get back to the ship
Park setting, used to be a parking lot
Here come the dogs
Entering the pavilions
Place for lines to form
No waiting today
Good time to visit
The oldest pavilion
Groups waiting to enter
Bronze vase
First look at the army of warriors
All made from clay
Eleven columns of soldiers
These were front line men with no armor
Carried no weapons
These warriors have armor
Dark ones have oxidized
Eleven columns separated by walls
Guarding the Emperor's tomb
Each face is different
Horses would have pulled a chariot
Faint colors in the clothing
Robed army
Horses were Mongolian
Each figure can weigh over 200 pounds
Thousands of men
They appear to be smiling
They would have carried weapons
Some would carry flags
Some have lost their heads
Painstakingly restored
The walls held the timbers that was the roof
Warriors were buried 15 feet deep
Walls and windows of the hangar
Construction info….in Chinese and English
Piles of ruins
This was how everything was discovered
Like putting a puzzle together
Shade of pink in the clay
Warriors carried weapons
The chariot was missing
Special head dresses meant this man was a general
Their hair was braided tight to their scalp, then wrapped in a bun
A grave from a farmer's property
Meant to stand watch forever
Horses were instrumental in war
Some soldiers were watchers
Faced the outside wall like on watch
Still finding more
Like solving a huge puzzle
The front line were dispensable
They carried no weapons
They wore no armor
Tight line