"Treasures of Cruising the World" with Bill & Mary Ann: Report # 5 Sitka, Alaska September 27, 2017 Wednesday, Rain & 50 degrees Part #1 Of 2 72 Pictures

The city of Sitka was our port of call today. In fact, we did arrive there well after midnight, but so quietly, we never knew we had docked. If we avoided rough seas and high winds, then no one minded that we sped to get here. Since we had no tour booked, we could sleep in a bit later, and enjoy a leisurely breakfast in the dining room, once again. We have decided some tables are better than others. Tables for two are scattered all over, and obviously needed to seat the crowds. For the first couple of days, we were escorted to a window table, but today, we were located in the aisle way near the service station. Not the best spot, as people were coming and going constantly. People love to slow down, and watch to see what you're eating on their way out. So this is one table we will avoid if possible. No problem with the service or food, we are happy to report.

The bad news was that the weather was not looking good today. There was a constant drizzle, which later on, turned to constant rain. Oh well, it is to be expected this time of year. We dressed in layers, and wore our waterproof everything. Located on the Gulf of Alaska, Sitka is not that cold. Bet it never went below the high 50's today.

All aboard was 3pm, with the last shuttle leaving downtown at 2:30pm. That should allow us enough time to see the sights and perhaps have lunch. By the way, we were docked in the commercial port, the same spot we were parked last July. The only difference today was that the line for the shuttles was at least three times longer than when we were on the Amsterdam. Of course, that ship holds fewer people. We sort of figured many more people would be on tours, but it sure did not look like it. We had overheard a lady complaining that her kayak tour had been cancelled, so perhaps more of the adventurous tours were also dropped due to the inclement weather.

The ride was about 15 minutes to downtown Sitka. About ¼ mile from the ship, we saw the remnants of a huge land slide that had blocked this road a few weeks ago. Our friend, Richard, had been onboard Regent's Navigator when the slide occurred. Many guests had to be brought back to the ship via boat. This must have been much bigger of a problem than a few fallen trees, since it has taken so long for them to fix it.

Once in town, we decided to take the same route we took in July. Time was limited, but we hoped that we would see salmon coming up Indian River. Following the Seawalk Trail, we headed towards Crescent Harbor. Lining this street was the Russian Bishop's House, St. Peter by the Sea Episcopal Church, and the Sitka Sound Science Center. This is where you can see some fish ladders that lead to the science center and adjacent fish hatchery.

By the time we arrived at the Science Center, a bus stopped to let people outside to view the small fish ladder. Although this was not the main access for the salmon to go upstream, it attracts enough of them for study and harvesting of eggs. Beat up and exhausted chum and pink salmon were struggling to swim upstream.

A bit further up the road, we entered the Sitka National Historic Park, 107 acres of native trees and a collection of priceless totem poles. It is also the site of a bloody battle between the Russians and the native Tlingit tribe, occurring in 1804. Very sacred ground. There is a two mile graveled walkway where it is possible to spot eagles, ravens, sea birds, ducks, and even mink. One critter we could have encountered were black bears. A sign was posted that there was one seen on 9-21, so be careful.

The main thing we wanted to see had to be the salmon running up the Indian River. Coming out of the forest, you could hear the noise of the thousands of gulls, as they dined on the dead and dying salmon. The only birds missing had to be the eagles. We had seen many last July, but today there was only one lone bird on the beach side. Could be due to the fact it was raining, and they don't like to fly in it. Or they don't mix well with the gulls and ducks.

The lack of time was a factor today, limiting our time we would spend here. Making our way back to town, we waked to the Westmark Sitka Hotel to have lunch. Obviously, today the patio dining was closed, so it was inside seats for us. We spent about an hour there, enjoying a shared burger, a couple of beers, and a slice of 8 layer chocolate cake with homemade ice cream. Perfect meal for a wet and cold afternoon.

With a short walk across the street, we boarded one of the waiting buses back to the pier. Sail away was scheduled for 3pm, but we were delayed for over an hour. Seems that they were having a problem with the back-up diesel engine. Eventually, we were on our way, but the Seaview Pool sail away would have been cancelled anyway, due to the soggy and cold weather.

Making a stop at the pizza place, we came away with a Margherita pie, and dined in the almost empty Lido Market.

Dinner was in the Pinnacle Grill, but with the Sel de Mer theme. But there was a problem. Almost never, ever, do we get sea sick. But the ship began to list and pitch enough to cause one of us to experience a bit of "mal de mer". Probably not the best night to try Sel de Mer at a fee of $49 per person, but it was only happening once this cruise, and we were curious enough to want to check it out. Taking a seasick pill seemed to help.

Now as far as the meal went, we have to say we were mostly disappointed. Prior to coming here, we had to make it clear that one of us had a serious shellfish allergy. So what was the first thing offered? A seared scallop as the muse. Now this was odd. The waiter did not apologize, but simply took the plate, and added it to Bill's plate. Never came an offer of a replacement, although the answer would have been no thanks. We had both ordered the salad nicoise, but one of us had it without the ahi tuna. This was the best part of the meal, and also the tiny loaf of French bread served with a variety of dips.

Most of the mains were seafood, but they did offer lamb or tenderloin steaks. We chose the steaks, because the ones we had in the Tamarind were fabulous. Unfortunately, these were stringy and over-cooked. Chewy. Even though both entrees were supposed to come with fries in a basket, only one basket was served. And the fries were limp and few. Sides were creamed cauliflower and brown rice, shared between us. We did not complain to our waiter about the meat, since by now, we were being assaulted by the music from deck three and the Postmodern Jukebox performance. The singer had a piercing set of lungs that sent a tidal wave of sound all the way into the open-walled Pinnacle below on deck two. Our best bet was to finish what we could of the meal, saving a bit of room for dessert.

A "tree" of chocolate-covered strawberries appeared, along with our desserts of apple/ice cream and protiteroles with French-pressed coffee. Thank goodness the music had ceased by 9:45pm, just about when we were done. The folks that were in attendance seemed to have enjoyed the show, but it is not our cup of tea.

Still trying to overcome the motion of the ship, we decided to skip the show of the gold medal winning illusionist, James Cielen. When we returned to the room, a plate of chocolates and a postcard recipe from Rudi Sodamin was waiting for us.

We have to mention that there are problems with the elevators on this ship. Even though there are four of them in the aft, seldom are more than two working at one time. Guess there is no ship that is totally functional all of the time.

Tomorrow, the last Alaskan port will be Ketchikan

Bill & Mary Ann

Docked in Sitka