The country for this Sunday’s visit happens to be one of our favorites….Denmark. Not only because it is the land of the Vikings, but also because one of us happens to be quarter Danish on a grandfather’s side. Although not a large country in size, there are about 5.5 million people living here. The capital is Copenhagen, and our destination today.
The term fairy tale can be used freely in Denmark from its literary writers to their castles and palaces. They get it right with old fashioned charm to futurist design. They have been called the happiest nation in the world. You’ll discover, like we have, that locals have camaraderie, contentment, and a cozy way about them, even though they have learned to live with very high taxes.
The best time to visit is from May to September. Places to see are Legoland (born here), Viking ships, museums, and Copenhagen. The biggest rock concert event happens here called Roskilde Festival that attracts 80,000 visitors.
What’s to eat? Open faced sandwiches, Danish meatballs, pickled herring, and Danish pastries are a must. The favorite drink is beer, especially Carlsberg and Tuborg.
Trademarks are beer, designer furniture, Hans Christian Anderson, fairy tales, Legos, Vikings, and the Little Mermaid. Hot dogs, crepes, and waffles from street carts can be quite tasty as well.
Random fact: Denmark has no downhill skiing, as the highest point is 173 meters or 568 feet in elevation.
Once a small fishing village, the city of Copenhagen had one big church, a couple of wells, and a large estate in the 11th century. Today the high rises have overtaken most all of the ancient palaces, churches, and castles. Becoming an industrial power through its harbor activity, these days find this city a central hub for the rich and famous, high-tech science, and up-to-the-minute media. Tourism has to be utmost important since many cruise ships come here mainly in the high season of summer. As for us, we have been here four times now, but the last visit was in 2006. It would take some refreshing to roust our memories. And we did notice some changes in this city of old.
Starting at 6:30am, Ian gave a commentary on the scenic sail in to Copenhagen. This would be broadcasted to the Crow’s Nest, atrium (deck three), and outer decks. The better place would be watching it on TV and getting the commentary while staying in our warm and cozy bed. Since we have watched this sailing before, that would work just fine. And besides, at that time of day, the temperature outside would be in the 40’s for sure.
The ship was alongside the pier around 8am, and we were cleared by 8:30am more or less. There were a total of seven tours sold on the ship, five of which stayed locally. Two took people out of the city to see castles or a fishing village. For those who are experiencing their first visit here, the best way to see the historical section of old Copenhagen is by the hop on hop off coach. These buses were waiting outside the gated docking area….very easy to purchase tickets on the spot. By the way, the name of this docking port is called Langelinie, and there was no terminal building.
The new Ocean Pier Cruise Ship Terminal area has designated buildings with shopping. One other ship was docked there, the MSC Meraviglia, the same mega ship that has shared ports with us in the Mediterranean recently. This terminal is located quite a distance to the city center, and we wonder if they were given a complimentary shuttle to town? If not, they could not easily walk there, like many of us did.
We were off and running by 10am and were able to pick up one of the ho-ho bus maps, as well as a walking map. The bus map was far more helpful with the names and pictures of each major building or district along with street names. Tickets for the various shuttles were sold on the spot (credit cards accepted), and some of them included entrance fees to some of the major attractions like Tivoli Gardens, the Icebar, Ripley’s, and the Guiness Factory.
It was going to be a chilly day since we never saw sunshine. So we layered up, but within 20 minutes, one of us had to shed the too warm sweatshirt. As long as we were walking, the crisp breeze was tolerable. The first sign of souvenir shopping appeared with a row of mini shops along the waterfront. We would check these out on the way back.
Our destination was the Little Mermaid, Copenhagen’s iconic statue of bronze that sits in the water along the rocks. Most visitors remarked on how small she was, and they were correct. This statue was donated by one of the original brew masters back in the early 1900’s, and a fairy tale written by Hans Christian Anderson enhanced her charm over the years. A bit further up from the famous statue, we were surprised to see a pair of white swans at the shoreline. The female was sitting on a large nest, asleep, while the male stayed close, busy getting more sticks and stones to reinforce the nest. They sure are a beautiful bird as seen close up. Across in the moat of the fortress, another pair were half hidden in the reeds, also sitting on a nest. There were a few ducks swimming here, but not many of them.
Strolling this part of the harbor is most scenic and can really only be done on foot. Following the map, we made our way to the impressive Gefion Fountain, depicting the Norse goddess Gefion and her four sons who she turned into oxen. Next to this scenic fountain was St.Alban’s Anglican Church, small by most standards, but equally charming. Behind this church was access to the Citadel, a well preserved 17th century fortress, where an old windmill and the Swedish Church are located. We would explore this on our way back.
In a little park on this waterfront was a craft fair with a band setting up for this afternoon. We learned later that it was a Japanese Festival, explaining the oriental costuming we saw on some young folks.
Passing other iconic buildings, we found our way to the entrance to the square of the Amalienborg Palace and the Marble Church at the far end. This is the winter home of the Danish royal family, and also the square where we have witnessed the formal changing of the guard at high noon. As the time was only 11am, we took many photos of the standing guards and the surrounding ancient stone structures. Groups from organized tours were already gathering to stake out the best spots to see these guards marching. We did not have the time too spare waiting, so we continued forward.
Almost directly across the harbor was the Opera House surrounded by old shipyards and waterfront. On our side we saw the very black rock monument of Queen Mary of Denmark and one out-of-place statue of Michelangelo’s David, the original residing in Florence, Italy. A bit further we passed by the Royal Danish Playhouse, which was near the next iconic area of Nyhavn. This is a canal district lined with brightly colored 500 year old step-gabled houses that are the most photographed and artist’s painted row of houses in Copenhagen. The narrow canal was lined with historic wooden ships, bars, restaurant, and cafes with Danish food, beer, and more. Since it was close to noontime, many of these establishments were full of people already enjoying either coffee or Danish beers and snacks. And most everyone, whether local or tourist, were using some type of wifi device. This has to be a worldwide addiction or new pastime. Who would have thunk???
A new footbridge was added here to make access to nearby Christianshavn possible. There were many locals riding bikes throughout the city today, but nothing in the volume we saw in Amsterdam. And none of the riders we encountered were boldly taking the right-of-way, as they were much more cautious. Come to think of it, the heavily cobbled streets did aide in slowing up the foot and bike traffic as well. You had to be most careful where you walked, and if anyone plans on following what we did, be sure to wear the most comfortable and thick-soled shoes you have. And while we were passing by the numerous pier side eating venues along the canal, we figured this could be a wonderful spot to have lunch….if you can find room.
A most famous pedestrian shopping street here is called The Stroget. It is located very close to the end of Nyhavn Canal, and one of our destinations for today. Many years ago in the 1990’s, we discovered this area was typical Danish, with a mix of modern stores, but filled more with Danish specialty shops. Trying to find the delis or bakeries proved difficult, because most of them on the main street were gone. Of course, it was possible we wandered off of the main street to a side alley, but even that proved fruitless. What we saw today was an avenue filled with high end boutiques and very large department stores carrying many European brands. And pricey. Hoping to purchase some Danish cheeses or bakery goods never happened. Strolling through the main squares with fountains and street artists was enjoyable.
Time was flying by all too quickly, and our objective was to locate the Hard Rock Café in hopes of buying some city t-shirts. Although we had scoped out a few possible lunch cafes along the way, they were already filled to capacity. When we did find the HRC at the end of the Stroget, we found there was one table seating for two left, and we gladly took the high top table. Sharing a BBQ cheeseburger and crispy fries, we sipped ice cold Heineken draft beers too. The t-shirts were easily purchased, and we were ready to go after a much needed relaxing time.
Backtracking, we searched for those food shops, but never found what we were searching for. What we did find was a small kiosk selling the creamiest ice cream. We shared a scoop of chocolate and strawberry cheesecake gelato while we slowly walked back towards the Nyhavn area. By now, there was standing room only, and we were glad we didn’t wait until this late to have lunch.
We had saved the Kastellet near the Little Mermaid to walk before entering the pier area. This is a nicely preserved 17th century fortress that appears to still be active with military guards present. While one of us relaxed on a bench in the compound, the other explored the top of the moat and the windmill situated there. The different sizes of the cobblestones made walking difficult here, so we were glad to get to the sandy pathway and finally to regular street walkways.
As we planned, we checked out each mini-shop on the Langelinie pier, but found nothing of interest to buy. The remainder of the Danish krone will have to be changed to the Norwegian krone to spend tomorrow. But this will be best done in Oslo, because on the ship, they will convert it back to the US dollar, then to the foreign money. You end up losing on both ends.
Sail away was supposed to be around 5pm, but shortly before the all aboard time, there was a medical emergency called on the PA throughout the ship. Someone on deck seven was in trouble, and had to be debarked to the hospital in an ambulance. We watched from deck nine as the man was brought out on a stretcher, and taken away with his wife in the front seat. Once again, this was a much better place to be taken off for hospital and doctor care, as opposed to being out to sea with few options. Hope he will be OK.
Dinnertime came quickly, finding the five of us back and sharing stories of the day. As always, we all did something different, and all of us were equally exhausted. For that reason, and the fact that we really don’t do jugglers, we missed the show. Sleep is becoming more precious as these ports are coming way too close for most everyone. Tomorrow, there will be yet another scenic commentary beginning at 6:30am. Yikes!
Bill & Mary Ann
Tuesday, April 30, 2019
Report #100 Copenhagen, Denmark April 28, 2019 Sunday Scattered showers & 59 degrees
