Our port of call for today was one of the oldest inhabited cities of the Iberian Peninsula – Cadiz. Located a short distance from the Straits of Gibraltar, Cadiz has been home to the Spanish Navy since the 1800’s. It lies on a narrow stretch of land, like a peninsula island, surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on three sides. It also happens to be the main port for the city of Seville, an 1½ bus ride from here.
The old town is surrounded by ancient walls and filled with historic architecture. Winding cobbled streets are lined with small shops, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, as well as some modern boutiques you would find in the larger cities. Not to be missed are the cathedrals, museums, parks, and bars where the Flamenco dance is performed. Monuments are everywhere as well as squares and markets. It is a most walkable city where it is easy to get lost in the maze of narrow alleyways that all look much the same.
The Amsterdam arrived to the harbor quite early, but we were not docked until 7am. The great news is that we were right in the center of town, the closest vessel in the harbor. Other ships here today were the Mein Schiff I, the former Celebrity Galaxy, launched in 2009 with a total capacity of 2700 passengers. Again this is a German-speaking crowd, and it is all inclusive. The other ship was the MSC Meravigilia, a larger vessel, but no current info on her. The third ship was Oasis of the Seas, but it was empty of passengers. This was the ship that recently sustained damage while dry docked in the Bahamas. It was sailed here to Cadiz for repairs. Lucky for us, otherwise they could have had up to 6000 guests on this almost 223 gross ton ship. A big WOW.
Shore excursions here are some we have done in the past, except for the ride to Seville. There were three tours there, along with a few city tours in Cadiz. One trip we loved was to see the sherry capital of the world – Jerez de la Frontera, where we sipped Tio Pepe. A visit to the Andalusian School of Equestrian Arts was the best while on a Seabourn cruise. At that time, we were able to see a practice run of the real horse show in the ring. What a thrill, as this is not done anymore, we have been told. Another fun half day tour was to see the Flamenco dance in a tapa bar in Cadiz, as is was up close and personal. Other out of town tours went to the White Villages and an Andalusian fishing village. Still wearing shorts and layering up with jackets, we knew the day would warm up. Think positive, we always say. Just in case, we threw in the umbrella for good measure. Never needed it.
Directly across the street, we followed a path we always take…through the plaza to the Town Hall, a neo-classical structure built in the late 1800’s. Across from there is the start of several street-side cafes, already full of morning pastry eaters and coffee drinkers. From here we headed to the Cadiz Cathedral, the Baroque church housing jewels and precious artifacts from the New World. Glad we have toured the inside years ago, because there was a long line to get inside.
By the way, the grandstands were set up with the folding chairs here and along the parade route for the upcoming, once a year Holy Saturday procession of the silver icons that reside inside the cathedral. We have seen it close-up more than once, and it is quite a moving spectacle as full orchestras follow each heavy silver platform carried by several men wearing tall cone headdresses complete with full masks. So bizarre. Perhaps we may see this event before we have to be back onboard.
From the cathedral, we headed straight up to the upper part of the peninsula and the old wall that faces the Atlantic Ocean. The best part of walking up here is being able to spy on the “cat city” down below on the concrete pylons that protect the old wall. It’s quite a drop to the sea below, but it has become home to a number of feral cats. Probably providing a service of ridding the city of rodents, these cats are given a number of make-shift boxes or real cat carrier boxes to keep out of the weather. We did learn that a few years ago every young cat had been neutered to prevent an increasing population. That must have been successful, because we did not see hundreds of them.
The walkway on Calle Campo del Sur, the main road here, is the best place for folks to ride bikes, or use razor scooters. You have to keep watch not to get run over, especially today because it is a holiday weekend with many people everywhere. Rounding the corner, we saw San Sebastion Castle, situated far out on a point in the ocean. We had time, so taking the long walk on a cobbled causeway seemed a good idea. It took us about 15 minutes to walk it, but discovered that the castle was closed due to renovations. It was a good opportunity to take photos from that angle for a change.
Continuing up the road, we came across the La Palma Spa, and a popular beach area. There was even one brave person swimming in the surf here. And because the tide was out, many locals were fishing in the tide pools and in the ocean as well.
There was another fortress and castle named Castillo de Santa Catalina, a 13th century castle with gun turrets too. These days there is an historical exhibit all about the city and the surroundings. And there is also a public restroom there.
A bit further up the road was Parque Genoves, a pleasant area with gardens, a pond with fountains, a small playground for the kids, and plant and tree specimens from all over the world. In the center is a pigeon coop, but the owner of the birds was not there today. We have met him a few world cruises ago, and talked all about flying racing pigeons. Very interesting.
Rounding another corner, we came upon the Museo de Cadiz, but it was closed for the holiday. Plaza de Espana is another lovely park like setting with decorative tiled plazas with fountains and tiled benches. There is an important monument there dedicated to the signing of the first constitution of Spain. Across the street from here were museums and another church.
We figured we had better head back into the center of town in order to locate the restaurant we always dine at. We were not recognizing the street we needed to find, so ended up going back to the Cathedral, and back-tracking. We did come across Mercado Central, the oldest covered market in Spain. The crowd was overwhelming with folks buying food for Easter Sunday tomorrow. When we saw Calle Columela, we knew to turn right and head downhill to the cross street of Rosario. Turning right we found the café we love for pizza, of course. The best thing we like about this place is that mostly locals eat here. We were the only tourists there. The maximum capacity is 30 or so people, with a few more tables set up outside. So we ended up ordering two different pizzas, draft beers, and a shared dessert. Food here in Cadiz was the best value for the money since we left home in January. The time flew by as we lingered enjoying the beer, but we needed to watch the time. All aboard was 4pm.
Going back up this main shopping street with many European clothing stores and international ones too, we went to the flea market in one of the squares. The big purchase of the day was a 5 euro waist purse in denim blue, a practical way to carry valuables. There was one last stop we wanted to make, and that was at a bakery to purchase some shortbread cookies. Locating a tiny shop, we waited in line with the locals to buy 10 delicious large cookies to snack in our room.
On the way back to the ship, we realized the folding chairs were being set up for the procession. We bet that it would begin after 5pm. We did make it back to the ship close to 4pm, and were ready for the mandatory emergency muster drill beginning at 4:15pm. Hope this is the final one, but who knows? Right after the drill, Captain Mercer said the procession was beginning in town, and we might be able to photograph it from the higher decks on the ship. There were a few late buses coming back, and we had to wait for them. Worked out great, because we went right up to deck nine, and did get pictures of part of the procession’ From this distance, the photos came out much better than being right in the middle of the crowd.
The sail away gathering was once again in the Crow’s Nest, but many people came to the Seaview Pool to watch our exit. Shortly after we left, the MSC vessel followed us. We did stay until the wind drove us inside. It sure looked like it was raining in the distance, but we lucked out today, and it stayed warm and dry.
Dinner ended with a special treat of a pineapple upside down cake with Happy Birthday Bill on the top. Heo and Greg had never eaten this old-time dessert, and they were pleasantly surprised. And naturally, a big group of waiters, head waiters, Ronald and Phillip, the bosses, gathered to sing the birthday song. This was delayed since the five of us had not been together for the last two days. Great way to end a most busy day.
Tomorrow we will be in Lisbon, Portugal, the first of two stops in that country.
Bill & Mary Ann
