Our port of call for the next two days is the city of Mumbai with a population of 12 million (2012), and ranked the fourth most populated city in the world. The highest point in the city is 46 feet above sea level, and they get 85 inches of rain annually. That seems like a lot, but in Cochin, they get a whopping 11½ feet of rain a year. Temperatures in the summer range from 86 to 106 degrees, while in the winter, it is as low as 54 to 80 degrees. Which is not low at all. Mumbai is described as a city of contrasts, which is an understatement. Some of the wealthiest live here, but are outnumbered vastly by some of the poorest.
The city’s name of Mumbai is derived from Mumba, a goddess that was worshipped by some ancient tribes. That translates into Mother. The city is actually a conglomerate of seven islands, originally home to a fishing community. Back in the old days, it was known as Bombay, when the islands were gifted as a dowry to Charles II of England when he married Catherine of Branza, the daughter of King John IV of Portugal. With 300 years of British occupation, Bombay became a thriving seaport.
Mumbai today is a business and entertainment capital of India. Ever heard of Bollywood? It is the glittery film industry that rivals Hollywood in America. Things to do and see close to Mumbai’s seaport are the Gateway of India, the Taj Hotel, the Fort area, and the Colaba marketplace. You can also access a ferry to Elephanta Island from the Gateway area. To explore more, we recommend a taxi ride.
Tours offered by shore excursions include the highlites, religious beats, or the Queen’s Necklace, a tour of the city lights (one with a dinner). They range from 1½ to 5 hours for $55 to $180. Other sights to see are Victoria Terminus Railway Station, built in 1853, it is a marvel of architecture where ½ million passengers use it daily. Dhobi Ghat is another marvel where laundry is done the hard way….by hand. Marina Drive is a sight to see at night with the glittering lights and ocean views all the way to Chowpatty Beach. These are just a few, but there are many more things to see if you have the time.
There was another overland tour for 5 days, four nights to see the Taj Mahal and Pink City of Jaipur. It cost $6000 (double) or $8200 (single). We think that had to be pre-booked and paid for prior to the cruise.
We were not alone in the port, as the Seabourn Ovation, one of their newest ships, was docked directly behind us. But the best news is that we had great friends from home on that ship, Alene and Don. Today happened to be the only one where we crossed paths. So we have been emailing, and trying to figure out a meeting point. Long story short, we did not apply for permission soon enough to board their ship, so we planned on meeting in the terminal. They had a morning tour, and we went off to the city, so meeting at 3pm would work for all of us.
Getting off the ship around 9:30am, we went into the terminal, showed our landing papers, went through xray, then exited the doors to board the necessary shuttle to go to the Green Gate. It is not allowed to walk through the busy port area. Lo and behold, we ran right into the line where the Seabourn bus tour was loading passengers with our friends among the group. With handshakes and hugs, we visited briefly, and agreed to meet up at 3pm.
At the Green Gate, we left the little bus and went through the security there and off into the city. And the taxi guys. Here we go again….just say no. Actually, no means maybe to them, and it took two blocks of fast walking to fend them off. Since today was Sunday, we were in no rush to get to the main sights too early by taking a taxi. We noticed that many of the giant trees had been cut down on this street. Also, there were no cows roaming freely here like there used to be. There has been an effort to clean up the streets here, and it shows. We even saw a street sign warning the locals not to use plastic bags.
The long walk brought us by the Fort area, the library, and the local police station, a fairly safe place to walk. The closer we got to the Gateway of India, we saw the crazy traffic and busy sidewalks filled with spicy aromas from food stalls nearby. Many local families were out and about for a Sunday outing. Going through more security checks at the Gateway, we entered the massive square where the ladies wore their most colorful saris. Many of them were on their way to the wooden ferries that took them to Elephanta Island, a 45 minute ride. There you can see the cave temples carved out of rock knowing it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We have been there a few times, and found it fun going to the top being carried on litters with chairs. Besides the caves and sculptures, there were naughty monkeys up there, that would steal anything you had on you. Our one time visit was fun, although it took most of the day.
After taking too many photos (saving only the best), we crossed the road to enter the Taj Mahal Palace, also one of the icons of the city. Due to the unfortunate invasion over 10 years ago with terrorists, there are security measures taken before entering the lobby. We had to pass through xray and put our handbags through as well. Marble floors and crystal chandeliers greet you as you enter. This area is the tower lobby, which does connect to the old hotel. A series of the most high end shops line the hallway, along with a cocktail lounge, restrooms, and the central pool and gardens. This retreat area of the hotel is off limits to outsiders, which is understandable. We entered just long enough to snap a few photos of the pool and the surrounding landscaping. As pretty as it is, this area was also part of the terrorist’s invasion. Most of the small shops were closed this morning, because it was Sunday. Burlington’s, their famous store for custom-made clothing, was opened for business.
Our visit here was also nice to have a chance to cool down from the humidity of the morning. Checking out the buffet service for brunch/lunch, it was an elegant setting with what we learned was an expensive meal with champagne. Little too fancy for us. Browsing the window displays of the shops on this side of the hotel, we took more photos, then exited the revolving door to outside.
Making our way towards the Colaba Marketplace, we wandered the street side shopping and the small stores. This place is famous for their ethnic artifacts, accessories, trinkets, clothing, and neat shoes. Not really needing anything does not apply here. A beaded seashell clutch caught our eye in a shop window. A similar beaded purse on the ship cost almost 10 times the price of this one, so we had to buy it.
Then it was time for a break and hopefully…beer. Leopold’s Café was our next stop, where we have always wanted to go, but it was always too crowded. This time we were early enough to be able to choose our table. But first, our hand bag had to be checked. Far from fancy, this popular restaurant was also hit by the gunmen, which is hard to imagine when you are sitting in there. Anyway, we ordered two Kingfisher beers with an order of crispy potato wedges to share. We did inquire if we could use US dollars, and the money collector of the café had to be the one to OK it. He said fine, and also kept the exchange rate fair.
Right across the street from the café was the Citywalk shoe store we always visit. In a matter of minutes, one of us owned two pairs of dress sandals at a very good price. The even had men’s shoes, which looked pretty nice.
We took our time walking back to the pier with little bother from the persistent taxi drivers. They know your day is done. That does not apply to the “rent a baby” girls that beg for money. We have been told not to give them anything because it just encourages more girls to do this. You cannot give to one, and not the rest. At that point, it becomes dangerous.
Back at the Green Gate, we showed our passes and hopped on the next shuttle back to the ship. Having about a half hour to relax, we went off again at 3pm to meet our friends in the terminal. They were sitting in the area where passengers were getting free wifi. Right before leaving the ship, we inquired at the front desk if our Captain had gotten permission for the guests of both ships to see both ships. We were told no, but advised to pick up our passports and try to gain access to the Ovation with our buddies. Nothing gained, nothing lost we said. It was worth a try.
So off the four of us went to the Ovation, where we asked the security fellows about boarding. We were told sorry, but unless our names were on their roster, we could not board. No exceptions. Oh well, we tried, and it did not work, so we went to the tented area in front of the ship, and visited there for an hour or so. As the shade decreased, and the sun began “cooking” some of us, we decided it was time to part. Just then, their shuttle stopped and let off a group of guests that included their cruise director. Our friends know him well, and called him over to introduce us. Don and Alene explained our predicament, and the CD said he would look into it. Maybe he could do something.
Within a few minutes, he and our friends waved us onboard and guess what? We had gotten approved. We turned over our passports and were handed guest ID’s. At that point both the cruise director and the hotel director greeted us. During the course of our conversation, the hotel director mentioned he had waken the captain up to get this OK’d. How about that?
With many thanks, we were off for a tour of a very beautiful ship. Even though it is smaller than the Amsterdam, the public areas were spacious. And they only have a maximum of 700 guests. Very spoiled guests, but then you do get what you pay for. We did see Don and Alene’s room which was really nice. Very much the same as the cabins on Regent and Silverseas. Plenty of room for a long trip.
After the grand tour, we ended up in the observation lounge, relaxing on plush chairs with ice cold beers. Doesn’t get much better than that. We were so lucky to have been granted this permission to board, so it just proves it is who you know more than anything. Since their Authentic Bollywood Performance was about to begin at 6pm, the same one we would see at 9:30pm, we said our final goodbyes and walked back “home”, with bragging rights. Sure was a nice afternoon.
Dinnertime came quickly, and all were present to share their activities of the day. Greg and Heo have sailed with Seabourn many times, and knew of the extra perks that come with their sailings. Since the entertainment was early this evening, we ended our meal before 9:30pm, which was perfect. We did go to the performance, but it was really crowded with no space at the back of the deck five entrance to the show lounge. When several fellow guests jumped up to take photos, they blocked the little view we had. And we were so bone tired, we only lasted about 10 minutes.
Tomorrow would be another full day, so we called it a night and turned in.
Bill & Mary Ann
Tuesday, April 2, 2019
Report #72 Mumbai, India March 31, 2019 Sunday Sunny & 92 degrees
