Recently someone asked us how many times we have transited the Panama Canal. To tell the truth, we had lost track of the exact number, but it is in the 20's. And we never tire of the sailing as it is a true wonder of the world. The Zuiderdam was in line to enter the first set of locks at Colon quite early this morning. So early, we missed seeing the new Atlantic Bridge which was completed in 2019.
Breakfast was served at 7:30am, but not well-attended on deck three. Perhaps the guests had forgotten to set their clocks ahead last night, or chose to sleep in a bit later. No matter which direction the clocks are set, it does upset your internal clocks somewhat. However, one of the nicest part of breakfast was the appearance of Panama Rolls, an HAL tradition since we can remember. These rolls are made with a sweet yeast dough, and filled with a mandarin filling. Yum. We only had one each, but sure could have indulged with more.
While we were dining at a window table, a "mule" went by and the driver waved to us. The ship was being raised in Gatun Locks and we happened to be at the ground level at that point. We would be in three sets of locks, which would raise the ship 100 feet above from the Caribbean Sea to Gatun Lake. In 2016, work was completed on a new set of locks here called Agua Clara Locks, which are capable of handling much larger vessels.
Back in our room, we had the perfect spot to view this transit. Most of the important sites would be visible to us as we are on the port side of the ship. Weather conditions were on our side as well as it was mostly cloudy with a life-saving breeze. Our room category included the use of Bushnell binoculars, which are adequate, but not as good as the Steiner's we always use. But now we each have a pair, and we could spot twice as much.
While we were sailing in Gatun Lake for over two hours, we had time to look up some info on the country of Panama. It is a Spanish-speaking country of 3.7 million people with the capital at Panama City. Famous for their Panama Canal, it is the world's greatest short-cut. Cutting through the Continental Divide, it links the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Riddled with setbacks and tragedies, the passage was completed by 1914, and expanded by 2016 with new sets of locks. These new locks can accommodate ships with more than 14,000 containers, making the canal central to the world's maritime traffic.
Local speciality foods include sancocho or a chicken and veggie stew. Ropa vieja is shredded beef served on a bed of rice, while patacones are fried green plantains. Drinks are pipa, fruit juice or coconut water. Seco is a locally made rum mixed with milk and ice. Finally vino de palma is a fermented sap from the trunk of a palm tree…..refreshing they say.
Reaching Gamboa, we saw the gate cranes, one of which is called the Titan, or also Herman the German. Not sure it is still used, but it takes powerful large cranes to service the gates that hold back the water in the channels. It is here that the river runs under the bridge from Lake Madden, and also the area where notorious Manuel Noriega was imprisoned until his death.
Culebra Cut is where the canal begins to narrow and we crossed the Continental Divide. Gold Hill is located here, which was named that in order for the French to inspire workers to dig for it. No gold was ever found there, but the work was completed. Recently, rebar was added into the hillside to stabilize it from falling.
Next was the Centennial Bridge, completed in 2004, which helped lessen traffic on the Bridge of the Americas. We have had the pleasure of driving over it while on a tour several years ago.
We reached the Pedro Miguel Locks at 1pm, just as the Volendam was entering the first chamber. We pulled up in the adjacent lock as she was being lowered 30 ½ feet to Miraflores Lake. The ships were close enough for us to spot some people we knew on there. The Zuiderdam was next to be lowered by 1:30pm.
Sometime around here, the rain began to fall in a quick, but heavy shower. It did help cool the air off briefly, but it remained humid the rest of the day.
It was time for lunch, but we did not want to leave the room, so we ordered room service again. Expecting them to be very busy, we were pleasantly surprised to receive our food within 15 minutes. While dining, we entered the Miraflores locks where the visitors center is located. There were two levels of greeters today cheering the two ships onward.
The new set of locks was not visible as they are located on the starboard side of the ship. Cocoli Locks were completed in 2016 and have three lanes to transit instead of two. This whole new complex is quite visible from the ships, and it is possible to see the water-saving basins that reduce the volume used during the operation.
Once we passed Miraflores Locks, we knew to keep a lookout for capybaras , the world's largest rodents. And we mean BIG. We did spot just one, and it was near 150 pounds, the size of a pig. In the past, we have seen many more, but today we were exiting earlier than usual, so they were not all out grazing. In addition, some folks spotted two caiman on the banks, where we always see them.
Finally, the ship went under the Bridge of the Americas near Balboa which spans the entrance to the Canal. It cost the USA 20 million dollars in 1962, and is 5,425 feet long, almost a mile wide. It is part of the Pan-American highway linking the Americas from north to south.
The Captain took his time heading towards Fuerte Amador because he had to off-load pilots and bring on a new one. The plan is to overnight in Fuerte Amador, leaving tomorrow around 5pm. Much to our surprise, when the Captain rounded the corner, we found the Volendam docked in a new cruise terminal, and we docked directly across from it. This is all new since we were here in 2019, so there is no more tendering. However, we have been advised we cannot walk out of this terminal and will have to take shuttles to two different areas of Panama City. But more on that tomorrow.
Dinnertime arrived at 7:30pm, and all were present, including Ellen who was dining alone once again. Aart tested positive today, and cannot be released from his quarantine until he is negative. He looks and feels fine, but the test says otherwise. So Ellen joined our table and it was fun for all. We realized that the majority of us are President's Club members and should have the Club Orange menus. It has one extra entrée compared to the regular menu, so our waiter promised to give us those menus from now on. This is the first world cruise that Club Orange has been an option for some folks.
Not sure what our plans are tomorrow except maybe a ride on one of the shuttles.
Bill & Mary Ann
