We are not sure that today's port of Uturoa, Raiatea has been a stop on a world voyage in many years, since our well-traveled tablemates do not recall ever stopping here. We have been here numerous times because we have cruised on the Tales of the South Pacific every fall, except for 2020 and 2021. One of the Leeward Islands of the Society Islands, Raiatea has a population of 12,250 French-speaking people. The island can be circled on a 98 km road, but the best known fact is that this island has the only navigable river in French Polynesia. Also this island is considered sacred having the biggest marae of all of the islands by the name of Taputapuatea, which earned it a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017. A marae is a temple that is built with basalt blocks placed side by side and piled up. It was a place for worship, burials, and human sacrifices. Glad to report this practice does not happen in modern days.
Modern Raiatea has many activities to attract snorkelers, mountain climbers, lagoon fishing, and motu picnicking. It is also the nautical base for the yachting crowd where canoe races and regattas take place annually. This all takes place in the town of Uturoa, where our ship docked this morning, and will stay until late tomorrow afternoon. This main village is the administrative center of the Leeward Islands. And we feel it is a far different island than some of the ones we have visited already. It is opened to tourism, but still has the feel of a town in the 1950's. And when you come to Raiatea, you get two islands for the price of one. Its smaller sister island is Taha'a, a very rural tropical setting filled with remote villages and vacation rentals. They share a lagoon also. While Raiatea grows the majority of the tiare plants, Taha'a grows vanilla beans, coconuts, and a certain type of sugarcane which is used for rum-making. Black pearls are also produced here.
A few tours offered today were a motu picnic for $140, the highlights for $120, a tour of a pearl farm and snorkel for $130, a drift snorkel at Taha'a for $140, or a sunset catamaran cruise for $120. Many folks we know hired a boat driver for a few hours for lots less. While we were chatting with friends on the pier, a taxi driver came along selling a 3 hour trip to a beach 10 minutes away for $25 a person. We all forgot to ask if that was a round-trip price. He got no takers, but thanked us for listening.
The ship was docked by 7am after it made its way through the lagoon of Taha'a. Normally we leave that way, but for some reason, the Captain chose to approach a different way. The dock area is spacious and all rocked and tiled. The buildings are within feet of the gangway, which was super steep today. The Amsterdam had lower openings at the pier, but this ship, the openings are higher up, creating problems with low and high tides in some of these ports.
Around 5pm we heard the sound of a drum coming from the terminal building. Sure reminded us of being in Hong Kong or Singapore. Looking from our veranda, we saw two lion dog figures performing for Chinese New Year. The tradition brings good luck we understand. We happened to be in the right place at the right time to take photos. In the backround, we could hear fire crackers going off.
An early birthday happened for one of us at dinner tonight. Susie and Woody brought a gift of narcissus bulbs ready to plant, and two sets of chaise lounge ties for both of us. Great idea and very sweet. Of course, the hand-painted birthday card was more appreciated, since both of us have a collection of cards Susie has painted since 2007. She is very talented in that area. Our dinners were good. One of us had the swordfish, and the other tried the breaded pork chop.....excellent choices. By the way, our plates were hot as could be and we thanked our waiters for listening to our request.
Last night the entertainers were a trio of Irish ladies doing a comedy act. It was called the comedy of the Biddy's. Some of our tablemates liked the show, but some did not. We have seen these ladies last year while on the N. Statendam we think. Tonight there was a movie shown - the remake of Love Affair. None of us went.
Another day in Raiatea tomorrow, although it sure would have been nice to make that stop in Bora Bora. We are still trying to figure out why we were able to stop there last November with more guests and crew, but not now. Perhaps their rules changed in January, or another cruise line paid more for the privilege. Too bad as it is considered the "pearl" of Polynesia. We tend to agree.
Bill & Mary Ann
Modern Raiatea has many activities to attract snorkelers, mountain climbers, lagoon fishing, and motu picnicking. It is also the nautical base for the yachting crowd where canoe races and regattas take place annually. This all takes place in the town of Uturoa, where our ship docked this morning, and will stay until late tomorrow afternoon. This main village is the administrative center of the Leeward Islands. And we feel it is a far different island than some of the ones we have visited already. It is opened to tourism, but still has the feel of a town in the 1950's. And when you come to Raiatea, you get two islands for the price of one. Its smaller sister island is Taha'a, a very rural tropical setting filled with remote villages and vacation rentals. They share a lagoon also. While Raiatea grows the majority of the tiare plants, Taha'a grows vanilla beans, coconuts, and a certain type of sugarcane which is used for rum-making. Black pearls are also produced here.
A few tours offered today were a motu picnic for $140, the highlights for $120, a tour of a pearl farm and snorkel for $130, a drift snorkel at Taha'a for $140, or a sunset catamaran cruise for $120. Many folks we know hired a boat driver for a few hours for lots less. While we were chatting with friends on the pier, a taxi driver came along selling a 3 hour trip to a beach 10 minutes away for $25 a person. We all forgot to ask if that was a round-trip price. He got no takers, but thanked us for listening.
The ship was docked by 7am after it made its way through the lagoon of Taha'a. Normally we leave that way, but for some reason, the Captain chose to approach a different way. The dock area is spacious and all rocked and tiled. The buildings are within feet of the gangway, which was super steep today. The Amsterdam had lower openings at the pier, but this ship, the openings are higher up, creating problems with low and high tides in some of these ports.
We left the ship around 10am, because earlier, the rain had come down like we had expected. It was passing showers, and it did slow down by the time we left. We took a right turn after passing through the tourist building, and made it up to the church and yacht area. Nothing special was happening today like canoe racing. We missed that one that took place last October. We did pass by the small harbor where the tour folks boarded many different vessels for snorkeling the reef. They do not have to go far to drop off the swimmers near the breaking reef and a motu or tiny islet. The experience may have been better if the clouds had left and the sky turned blue. For our own tours we have done in the water, the sun made all the difference with the colors of the fish and the corals. Today, the afternoon excursion guests may have had a better snorkel trip. One of those trips included some of the crew members and the Captain. They were headed towards a catamaran as we were going for lunch. Nice to see them have enough time to enjoy an excursion like the guests.
We did stop at the restaurant directly across from the ship by the name of La Raie Gate. It is small, but their food is very good. Many people were having their salads, burgers, fish and chips, or pizza. They make the best pizza here, which are a bit on the pricey side, but so good, it is worth it for us. We added two Hinano Gold draft beers - the large size in a heavy cold mug. By noontime, the sun began peeking out and it became darned hot and muggy. The beers went down just fine. The pizza we ordered was a pepperoni and cheese, and cooked perfectly. Their dough was more like French bread and cooked until it was crispy. We did have a bit of a language problem when we asked for the menu to order dessert, but were handed our bill instead. Guess we had enough for lunch, and there is always tomorrow.
We went back to the comfort of the ship, and decided to save the stroll through town for tomorrow. It was close to 3pm when we returned to our room, where we chilled out until dinnertime. Even reading on the veranda was too warm. Looking at the thermometer outside, we found it read 92 degrees in the shade. The rain never returned and the breeze had stopped. Now it was warm and humid. Some of our lady friends are not happy how the heavy humidity makes their hair go frizzy.
We did stop at the restaurant directly across from the ship by the name of La Raie Gate. It is small, but their food is very good. Many people were having their salads, burgers, fish and chips, or pizza. They make the best pizza here, which are a bit on the pricey side, but so good, it is worth it for us. We added two Hinano Gold draft beers - the large size in a heavy cold mug. By noontime, the sun began peeking out and it became darned hot and muggy. The beers went down just fine. The pizza we ordered was a pepperoni and cheese, and cooked perfectly. Their dough was more like French bread and cooked until it was crispy. We did have a bit of a language problem when we asked for the menu to order dessert, but were handed our bill instead. Guess we had enough for lunch, and there is always tomorrow.
We went back to the comfort of the ship, and decided to save the stroll through town for tomorrow. It was close to 3pm when we returned to our room, where we chilled out until dinnertime. Even reading on the veranda was too warm. Looking at the thermometer outside, we found it read 92 degrees in the shade. The rain never returned and the breeze had stopped. Now it was warm and humid. Some of our lady friends are not happy how the heavy humidity makes their hair go frizzy.
Around 5pm we heard the sound of a drum coming from the terminal building. Sure reminded us of being in Hong Kong or Singapore. Looking from our veranda, we saw two lion dog figures performing for Chinese New Year. The tradition brings good luck we understand. We happened to be in the right place at the right time to take photos. In the backround, we could hear fire crackers going off.
An early birthday happened for one of us at dinner tonight. Susie and Woody brought a gift of narcissus bulbs ready to plant, and two sets of chaise lounge ties for both of us. Great idea and very sweet. Of course, the hand-painted birthday card was more appreciated, since both of us have a collection of cards Susie has painted since 2007. She is very talented in that area. Our dinners were good. One of us had the swordfish, and the other tried the breaded pork chop.....excellent choices. By the way, our plates were hot as could be and we thanked our waiters for listening to our request.
Last night the entertainers were a trio of Irish ladies doing a comedy act. It was called the comedy of the Biddy's. Some of our tablemates liked the show, but some did not. We have seen these ladies last year while on the N. Statendam we think. Tonight there was a movie shown - the remake of Love Affair. None of us went.
Another day in Raiatea tomorrow, although it sure would have been nice to make that stop in Bora Bora. We are still trying to figure out why we were able to stop there last November with more guests and crew, but not now. Perhaps their rules changed in January, or another cruise line paid more for the privilege. Too bad as it is considered the "pearl" of Polynesia. We tend to agree.
Bill & Mary Ann
