Today's port of call was Maputo, Mozambique, and our very first stop in mighty Africa. Even though our arrival time was 6am, the ship was not cleared until after 8am. Things can move at a much slower pace in this part of the world, we have read. That includes the local officials going over passports and visas for the guests and crew. Good thing this was not a face-to-face drill. This was the nail-biting time for those that booked safaris either with HAL or independently. The over lands included a trip to Kruger National Park at Jock Safari Lodge for 56 hours at $4000 double or $4300 single. It was the same amount of time and money for the Lukimbi Camp, and the Train on the Bridge Ahalti was $3600 for 56 hours or $4000 single. Day tours included Maputo sights $90, City tour and Sun for $120, or Taste of Maputo for $120. Discover Maputo was $ 160. The shortest and least expensive was a walk through town for $50.
During our breakfast on deck three, we watched as the local officials filled the far upper corner of tables, and proceeded to do the passport business mixed with breakfast service. This was already 7:30am when we saw them, so by 8:30am, we think the ship was cleared. Going out on the deck, we watched as several officers waved goodbye to at least seven vans full of over land guests. They appeared to be the first ones to leave the ship. And we have to mention, the temperature was already in the high 80's and climbing. As for us, we chose to stay onboard for the day. We have toured the train station that Gustav Eiffel designed, the iron house, and visited the old museum. So we felt no need to retrace our steps today. By the way, there was a free shuttle bus to take folks to the FEIMA Market with local crafts and curios. These buses were running every 30 minutes until 5pm.
The country of Mozambique has a population of 25.3 million people that speak basically Portuguese. Maputo is the capital and offers dune-fringed beaches, turquoise waters filled with tropical fish, corals, and some elusive dugongs. The city is loaded with colonial architecture with a cultural mix of African, Arabic, Indian, and Portuguese people. According to some sources, Maputo is one of Africa's most attractive capitals. It has the waterside setting, Mediterranean style architecture, and wide streets full of jacarandas and flame trees. However, in all big cities there is another side that reveals not-so-glitzy areas. And from what we remember, Maputo is no exception. One has to be smart and watch your backside.
They have enjoyed 20 years of peace, preceded by tumultuous civil wars that wiped out much of the wild animals. It was said that armies do not march on empty stomachs, and that is where the wild animals ended up. And there was the ever-present black market on animal parts to sell for huge amounts of money. It has been reported that since those dark days, the wildlife is making a comeback in Gorongosa National Park. The list of animals include impalas, waterbucks, warthogs, sable antelope, hippos, crocs, elephants and lions. There are over 300 species of birds too.
So what do people eat here? Matapa is cassava leaves with peanut sauce and can be served with giant prawns and calamari, as well as chicken. Their favorite drink is Dois M beer, especially cold if you can find it. Coconut milk and chili peppers are used in most dishes. And finally, here is a random fact: a future bridegroom must prove he can work before an engagement can be approved by family members. Not a bad idea anywhere in the world.
We spent the day like it was a day at sea. Luckily, the ship was docked starboard, and they had the sun shining on that deck. Our side was in the shade most of the day with a view of the bay. One structure that we could see clearly was the Katembe Bridge, a three kilometer long suspension bridge built in 2018. It is 680 meters long and 60 meters high and is the longest suspension bridge in Africa……quite a feat to brag about. It was completed at a cost of 785 million dollars, which was on loan from China banks. The China Road and Bridge Corporation was developed in conjunction with the help of Germany, who engineered the design of this structure. It connects Maputo to Swaziland and cuts the driving time by 5 hours. Now it takes 90 minutes to drive that distance. The fee for a car or motorcycle crossing the span is equivalent to $2.00 USD. Large trucks cost more.
Another plus of staying onboard was the opportunity to see and film a variety of birds. Later in the morning, the tide had receded, exposing huge mud flats. This sent many water birds such as the large blue herons in flight back and forth over the bay area. We also spotted the smaller terns that dipped in the water to catch tiny fish, as well as flocks of crows, gulls, and swallows later in the evening. Many smaller birds were very vocal, but hiding in the nearby dock trees. We suspect they were mynah birds.
All aboard was at 5:30pm, but because another commercial ship was slow in leaving the bay, we did not eave until closer to 7pm. Wanting to get some shots of the downtown area, we went up to deck 10. We were treated to a very nice sunset which presented itself right under the Katembe Bridge. It dipped below into the clouds, then disappeared. But by 7pm, the afterglow was really nice as the bridge lit up for the evening. The best thing about leaving later was the fact the temperature had dropped a lot, and a wind came up.
Dinner was a "romantic table for two", since our tablemates were dining elsewhere. Boy did we get great service or what? One of us had the Dutch pea soup which was delicious, and the other a crab roll. Salads for both were followed by a salmon dinner and a pasta plate with slices of chicken. It is so nice of our waiter to let us create our own dishes. We were done without rushing by 8:40pm. Perfect for us for a change.
There was no live show, but a movie in the World Stage, Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. It was a 2 hour and 21 minute document/drama about Nelson Mandela's life as South Africa's president and his unbelievable path to get there.
Tomorrow we will have to pack for our overland trip on Friday. Getting excited now…..
Bill & Mary Ann
