What a day it turned out to be getting cleared and off of the ship in Durban, South Africa in a timely manner. Despite the fact that the Zuiderdam was docked by 4am, the local customs and immigrations procedure was delayed while we waited for the officials to set up in the upper dining room. Originally it was set to begin at 7:15am, but did not start until a half hour later. This was not a concern for the majority of folks that were not on shore excursions or over lands, like us. We had received a letter showing the group beginning with A would be first to be screened. However, when we went to line up outside the dining room at 7am, there was a line 30 deep, which grew to a line to the show lounge. Not one person checked for group numbers. Our only concern was that we connect with our driver and arrive to the airport in time for the 10:30am flight to Nelspruit. Barring any other complications, we did have some wiggle room.
Before 8am, the four officials showed up and the line began to move. Our room keys were scanned, then we handed over the arrival forms (amended from their error) and our passports, which got stamped twice. Unusual these days most everything is done electronically. A yellow sticker was added to our room keys on the way out, showing we had completed the customs check. Free to go, we headed back to the room where we had finished the packing at 5am for the quick get-away. No breakfast for us today.
Once outside the ship, we recalled there was no terminal, where we were instructed to meet our driver. There were a few private vehicles there, but none for us. Now what? Henk was there to assist all of the over land tours, and tried to help us. That's when a nice rep from Akorn, another local travel agency, asked if we needed help, which we said yes, we do. Showing her the list of rides we had pre-booked, she located our driver who was outside the gate. He probably knew we would never be off of the ship by 7:30am, and showed up after 8am. Whatever the reason, we were most happy to see him, and we were off for the long ride to King Shaka International Airport in Durban, arriving by 9am. On the way there, we saw something had been hit on the road. Where we live, many racoons or skunks get run over, but here, it was an unfortunate monkey.
Our driver was full of info as we left the high rises of the city, and headed to the airport located in the rural area of town. Everywhere we looked it was lush green and wet from a month's worth of rain. Too much he said. We told him about California getting too much snow and rain as well. Most of the surrounding hills were covered with sugar cane, some of which was being burned to clear out the rats and snakes. Yikes. The smoke added a dingy cast to the cloudy sky.
Our flight was with Airlink leaving at 10:30am. Checking in was a breeze, especially with one duffel that weighed under 44 pounds. Going through security was even easier, as we did not have to take off shoes or separate liquids. Only the computer had to come out of the bag. And of course, the new knee set off the alarm, where I was given the "pat down" and released. No questions asked and nothing explained. From the small gate, our tickets and passports were looked at and pen-swiped before exiting the door. From there we boarded little buses to drop us off at the plane, where we climbed steps to enter it. We were off and running right on time for the one hour 10 minute flight. Certainly not expecting it, we were served a drink of our choice and either a beef or chicken sandwich. How about that? Having missed breakfast, this was perfect and the food was really good. We landed at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport by 11:40am, and were in the receiving hall by noontime. This has to be the cutest airport ever and the smallest. Once we got our duffel, we went out the doors and our driver, Adolph, was right there with our names on his computer. Perfect. He was driving a small but newer SUV, which was comfortable for the two plus hour ride to the camp.
We weren't out of the airport for more than a minute before we saw impala grazing along the roadside. The landscape out of Nelspruit was full of orange groves, a major crop here, as well as farmed timber. Miles and miles of it. We passed lumber mills, banana groves, and a macadamia nut factory on the way to Hazyview, one of the major settlements. It is large enough to have a mall called the Lowveld Mall ,a McDonalds, and a KFC among other amenities. Diesel was sold for 23.38 rand a liter. Not sure of the conversion but will list it later.
We arrived at Shaw's Gate which is one of the entrances to Kruger National Park. The driver had to stop, show papers, and have his electronic window pass scanned by the park guard. The bar was lifted and we were able to enter. Once we left the paved road, the ride really became bumpy as it was rutted and muddy from the recent flooding rains. Despite the condition, we did arrive at the Bush Camp by 2pm, right on schedule.
What a royal greeting we got from the managers and staff. We were offered lemon water, wash clothes, and led to our cottage (#3) for the next 6 days. We will definitely go into greater detail on the room amenities later, but for now, the biggest thrill was seeing a kudu right below our balcony eating away at the brush. It stayed all afternoon, showing no fear of us at all. By the way, we had been forewarned about some animals that were seen around the cottages last night and early in the morning. One of them had gotten on a balcony and took off with a pillow, destroying it. Of course, we thought monkeys. But no, it was a female leopard, her cub, and a young male. The staff were taking extra precautions to escort the guests, especially at night, to the Summer Hall dining room. Thank you very much…..we will keep that in mind.
Lunch was served at 2:30pm, where we were served salad, fresh bread, deep-fried calamari, chicken tenders, a platter of cheeses, prosciutto, cantaloupe, and crackers. Drinks were offered, which we ordered sugar free Cokes. Other guests in the camp were there as well. They all introduced themselves and we found most were from South Africa. Two young girls traveling together had accents, but not sure where they were from. One other couple were from England, but they were going home tomorrow. This is the first time the existing group was so friendly. Sometimes it is hard to come into a crowd that has bonded. But not this time.
Our first game drive began at 4pm, where we joined Tonyika, the driver, the British couple and one friendly man from South Africa. I asked permission to ride shotgun, and they gladly said please do. I could navigate the climb into the raised Landrover, but would prefer not to. The animal sightings were numerous starting with a hippo, nine rhinos, at least 100 impala, many beautiful birds, nine female lions, and six elephants. How's that for starters??? Tonyiko remained vigilant looking for those leopards, but had no luck. On the way back, we stopped for sundowners, drinks while the sun was setting. We had ice cold local beers and the others went for the sodas and waters.
Back at the camp by 7pm, we freshened up and headed for dinner at 7:45pm. The good thing is that we do have lights, overhead fans, and air-conditioning this time. Much has been improved since we were here in 2018. Candles are nice, but we like to be able to see better and avoid any possible accidents. We have to add that the in-room free-standing bathtub was filled with hot bubbly water, lined with luminary candles, with champagne on ice. A note was left on the carpet saying "Welcome home…we missed you. We are so happy you are visiting again. We wish you a wonderful time and great game viewing. The Notten's team, with love." Now it was a good thing we did not attempt to get into the tub, since it was full of soapy water. We have heard stories of being stuck in that tub, not being able to get out of it due to slippery sides and bottoms. A nice touch anyway.
Dinner was served after cocktails at 8pm. This time we sat on the covered outdoor patio, where tenderloin steaks were barbequed. Wine was offered, but we said no thanks. A creamy vegetable soup was the starter as well as a small cantaloupe and prosciutto salad covered with balsamic vinaigrette. Bread and buttered croutons were eaten with the steak, small potatoes, and fresh mixed veggies. The absolute best was the small glass of Amarula, a favorite liqueur made here. A glass of chocolate mousse was brought and coffee offered. A bowl of fancy assorted chocolates were the final treat.
We were escorted back to the room with a guide and flashlight by 9:40pm. Showered and cooled off, we poured ourselves into the 4 poster bed under the fans, and slept like babies. Until 4am, when we had to get up to be ready for the morning game drive. Good grief. But that's a story for tomorrow.
Bill & Mary Ann
