You know funny things can run through your mind when you least expect it. For example, the thought had crossed our minds like what other surprises are up HAL'S sleeve in regards to this voyage? Our first clue was the fact that the ship had docked in a far different slip in Dakar this time, and definitely not where the extensive street craft market was located on the 2018 GWV. And last night, we were made well aware of the fact that the ship would be receiving 8 forty- foot containers of much needed food and supplies while here. Also, what about the free shuttle to downtown? There was no mention of that either.
Our suspicions were confirmed when Captain Frank came on the speakers at 8am during our breakfast time. He began by saying he hopes we are enjoying our voyage BUT….. There had been a change in our scheduled itinerary. Long story short, today's visit had been cancelled and no guests or crew would be allowed to leave the ship. We would stay docked until the containers were loaded, as well as two or three medical debarks were completed. The first set of passengers taken off in an ambulance had to be around 9:30am with a ton of folks watching from the promenade deck. This seems to be happening at every stop now.
Anyway, the reasons for the abrupt cancellation was due to recent political developments in Dakar with a degree of unrest in the city. The Captain relayed his fear for the safety of the passengers, especially those on the HAL shore excursions. Looking up the recent info on this situation, we went to Google and discovered really bad things have been occurring here for a while. Recently a bus was burned, tear gas was used to break up demonstrations, many arrests made, people injured, and protests were promised by political opposition groups. Stun guns were used by police to disperse protestors. There was heightened security around all government facilities. Today the schools and banks were closed down, as were many of the businesses. Needless to say, none of us wanted to be in the middle of that volatile situation.
We had a long discussion last night at dinner regarding our last visit here in 2018, where guests and crew had gotten robbed of money, cell phones, and jewelry ripped off of lady's necks. What part of do not bring valuables off of the ship did they not hear? At the time, we had taken the shuttle to Independence Square, got off the bus, looked around, and re-boarded for the ride back to the ship. To be perfectly honest, we may not have even gotten off of the ship today, except to check out the huge street market across from the gangway. It's too bad, because Dakar had the biggest and best wood-carved African animals and figurines. Prices were good too. Those that waited until today to buy some of their treasures will be disappointed for sure. On the plus side, we did not have to pay for visas here, and we will all be refunded the port taxes back to our shipboard accounts. Once again, the tours will be credited back, except those who had independent excursions. They are on their own and understand booking this way is taking a risk. Especially knowing that the itinerary is not set in stone. Far from it…..
We wonder how long the people in charge knew about the cancellation of this port? A commercial ship was already in the slip we normally use, and no vendors of any kind were present. Funny they knew we were going to be kept on the ship. Why would they wait until 8am this morning to inform everyone, when all of the tour groups were waiting in the World Stage to be stickered for their buses?
The ship was docked portside today, so we had a birds-eye view of container ships being off-loaded. For us, it is a fascinating work in progress. Right now, it's 10:30am and there is no sign of any containers being delivered on the pier. We suspect we will be here very late today. We have to add that the temperatures in the morning were cooler, about 74 degrees, but eventually heated up to over 95 degrees. Oddly enough, the outside decks and verandas were soaking wet at dawn, due to sailing in heavy fog last night. We were told the foghorns blasted all night long.
We kept plenty busy working on photos and reports as always. Reading on the veranda was pleasant while keeping a watch out for those containers. By 1pm, they still were not there. One pickup truck did arrive with several cases of soda. We watched as some people left the ship with a few suitcases, perhaps entertainers. The Grimaldi Line vessel across from us continued off-loading containers and taking on new vehicles from the parking lot. No work cancellation for them.
At 3:30pm, still no containers in sight. We think we have been "stood up". In the meantime, another ambulance arrived taking away another seriously ill patient at 4:15pm. We expected to be leaving the port by 5:30pm, but so far, there had been no announcement from Captain Frank. There was a sail away party held on the promenade deck at 4:30pm, but the ship was going nowhere.
It was a good time to watch Ian's talk on the upcoming ports in the Canary Islands, but the TV continued to stall at times, and the sound could not be turned up beyond halfway. Even though we reported this back in January, nothing has been done to fix it. We took a walk after Captain Frank finally came on the speakers and announced that we did not get the 8 promised containers. Duh, we knew that. A note we got after dinner indicated that the political unrest was responsible for our containers not being approved by the local customs. They hope to get replacement orders to be delivered in Tenerife and beyond. In the meantime, we may see some shortages of fresh produce, such as lettuce and other delicate veggies and fruit. We will survive, no doubt, because they promise we will NOT run out of toilet paper and wine. Guess it's a joke….
The ropes were dropped by 6:20pm, and we had a naval escort vessel follow us out of the harbor. We should be on time for the next stop in Tenerife, Canary Islands.
Now what did we miss today? Senegal has a population of 14.5 million people that speak primarily French. It is the most western country and city on the continent of Africa. It is promoted as the Land of Hospitality….really? Not today that's for sure. They have coastal beaches, mangrove forests, savannahs, and woodlands. Bird-watching is big here, like in The Gambia, it is the route for a large number of migratory birds from Europe. They eat rice cooked in tomato sauce with fish and spicy veggies. Favorite drinks are hibiscus juice, ginger beer, and baobab juice. Here is a random fact: Senegal has one of Africa's largest pilgrimages. Two million people will do it.
Tours offered here were to the Island of Goree- all about the slave trade (restaurants and beaches are there now) for $300, 8 ½ hours with lunch. Or the same shorter tour without lunch for $130. Dakar and the Pink Lake was $270 for 8 ½ hours, while Bandia Wildlife Reserve for 4 ½ hours was $150. Dakar highlights was $130 for 4 ½ hours and a tour to an abbey was $140 for 4 ½ hours. Of course, none of these took place.
At dinner we had a good discussion about being in this part of the world. All of us agreed that a return visit to this part of Africa was highly unlikely to happen with any of us. Oscar paid us a visit, promising peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for tomorrow's night dinner, teasing of course. We both ordered tuna niçoise but it came without lettuce. OK, but needed extra dressing, since it was mostly potatoes and deviled eggs with a little tuna. Our mains were a traditional turkey dinner with lingonberry sauce. Dessert was rocky road ice cream….finally.
Hoping for a couple of better days at sea now as we sail northwest to some pretty nice islands off of the coast.
Bill & Mary Ann
