Originally, our port of call would have been Lahaina, Maui one day this week. Obviously, due to the wildfires that caused such destruction, the port was eliminated, and a day of scenic cruising was substituted. Which brings us to today with a pleasant afternoon of scenic cruising of the Jurassic Coast of Kauai.
After a nice breakfast that included sliced bananas to help with the muscle cramps, we took a slow walk around the promenade deck to discover we were already sailing quite close to an island, but which one? We knew that after leaving Hilo on the big island of Hawaii, we traveled across the north part of the island then turned passing Maui's southwest coast. Turned out we were sailing by Oahu. Sure would have been nice if there was some commentary while we passed so close to this island. It was close enough to see huge clouds over the island's center dropping massive amounts of rain.
Spending time at the Seaview Pool, we chatted with our buddies. We all agreed it was going to be a very hot day, but a good one for that afternoon sailing. The plan was to pass Oahu, then go between the islands and continue up to the east and north coasts of Kauai. Kauai is among the smallest of the Hawaiian chain, but it is the oldest geologically. Millions of years old. It is also the wettest if we remember correctly. Rainfall is measured in feet and not inches. It has been given the name of the Garden Isle for the reason it is so green. Average rainfall annually is 373 inches. It is no wonder that the swollen rivers have cut the canyons that resemble the Grand Canyon in the USA.
Watching the scenery from our veranda was wonderful, however the heat of the sun made us feel as if we were cooking under a broiler. The Captain had slowed the ship to 8 knots, so there was very little breeze. Our Polynesian Ambassador, Kainoa delivered the commentary at 3pm which could be heard on the bow TV station in our rooms. Too bad it was not broadcasted throughout the ship, but it was not. One of us had to pop in and out of the room to catch what he was saying, which turned out to be a good way to try to keep cooler. The bow was opened as well for the folks to view this coastline.
Kainoa mentioned that few ships are allowed to sail on this side of the island, so we should consider ourselves lucky. We certainly appreciated seeing the dramatic cliffs that at one point went up as high as 4000 feet. The original people to inhabit this island were of small stature but considered strong and sturdy. They mastered pond making where fish could be stored for future use. In time, the Marquesans and the Polynesians traveled here to live. Captain James Cook landed here in the 1800's and life for the natives probably was never the same. European diseases were introduced which was bad.
Kainoa mentioned that fishing is fantastic here. Often seen are the humpbacks who come here to have their calves beginning in November. He added that the orcas will travel here during the calving season and will attack the weaker females and young whales. Tiger and white sharks are commonly seen. There is one great white shark that is said to be over 20 feet long and has been spotted in and around the islands for several years. That would keep us out of the waters. Hawaiian monk seals are located on the other side of the island.
After slowly sailing past the dramatic cliffs, the Captain turned the ship so the folks on the starboard side could view the special sights. Then around 4:30pm, we headed towards a very private island called Miihow or the Forbidden Island. Not sure the spelling is correct. But the story has it that this small island was sold to the Sinclair family from New Zealand for $10,000 back in the 1800's. They were searching for an area where cattle and horses could be raised. The twist in this story is that the family was offered property where Waikiki is located, but the offer was rejected. Anyway, the combined families of Sinclair and Robertson still own the island, which by the way, has no running water or electricity. Hard to imagine this day in age. So the men run the ranch, but the women collect tiny seashells that only exist on this island, making it into very expensive jewelry. For instance one necklace with these shells could run about $6200. Wow.
As always, we kept watch for the birds around the island. There were a few boobys and seabirds we did not recognize, but the best surprise was sighting some tropic birds. They flew so fast and at a distance too far to see for sure. But the camera caught them, and we could see the long tail feathers that they have. These birds prefer tall cliffs to fledge their young, then fly out to sea to search for food. We both said that as many times that we have visited Kauai, we have never seen this part of the island. The best way to do it is by helicopter, which we saw a few flying over the canyons and the dramatic cliffs. We all agreed that today's scenic sailing was spectacular.
Hoping to catch a glimpse of the other private island, all we saw was the outline of it on the horizon. The sun had gone down, and darkness descended. We figured that we needed the extra time to sail around this island so as not to get to tomorrow's port of Nawiliwili too soon.
Tonight's dinner was special for Happy Canadian Thanksgiving. Starting with sesame crispy chicken tenders, one soup, and a salad, we had the full turkey dinner, just like we have on our Thanksgiving. Of course it would not be complete without a slice of pumpkin pie. All of it was delicious once again.
Hope that the weather holds up like it did today. Could not have been better.
Bill & Mary Ann
