Our final port of call in Fiji was the town of Savusavu, located on the second largest island of Vanua Levu. Also our last chance for "bula" greetings, although today there were fewer of those. Situated in a protected harbor, the Captain dropped anchor and we needed to use the tender boats. We arrived early after 7am, and it looked like another promising day with some sun and warm, humid temps. It also appeared to be low tide, so the ship had to anchor a bit further away from shore.
There were a few excursions sold beginning with a siteseeing tour for $100 and 4 hours. A visit to Fiji village for 3 hours was $80, and waterfall and rainforest strenuous hike and swim was $90 for 3½ hours. A visit to a chocolate farm was 5 hours for $90, while snorkeling with Cousteau for 2 hours was $99. Finally a garden walk for 1½ hours was $100.
We waited like we always do for the majority of folks to tender over before leaving at 10:30am. It should have been an easy transfer, but when 90% of the folks got off of the tender at the Copra Shed Marina, at least six of us remained, not being able to get off. It seems that a hook broke off of the boat and they had to pull away and turn it around. That took some time before we were tied up again and ready to get off. Much to our surprise, there was already a long line of guests waiting to board the boat back to the ship. Well, we shouldn't have been surprised, since we have been here before, and recalled there wasn't much to do or see.
Once we walked through the small marina building, we came out to the main street where many tents were set up with tons of souvenirs. There must have been double the number from a few years ago, or before Covid hit. The people from the ship blocked the sidewalks with their over-stuffed backpacks looking over the table treasures. There were many "pearls" to be bought, but all of it was costume jewelry. We assume most of the seasoned guests knew that. Instead of squeezing by, we just walked in the street and around the parked cars.
A little bit up this road was the produce market, a smaller version compared to Suva or Lautoka, but large enough to stroll through. Once again many local ladies ran the show here. There were some fruits and veggies we did not recognize, and we still don't know what they were because we were told the Fijian name. There was no fish or meat market here, so there were no pesty flies. As we walked further past this crowd, we came across a public kiddie park. Further up, the paved walkway that lined this harbor ended. There were some young local guys hanging around, who tried to engage us. We think they were high on something, so we left immediately. Sometimes you just get that sudden feeling that things are not right, and we have learned to trust our instincts. We went directly back to the main street and kept walking up the road until the sidewalk stopped. This was a good place to turn around, since the road across the way went to the airport. No need to go there.
This time we stayed on the main drag to the center of town where several businesses were located. There were many Indian and Chinese shops, a supermarket, bus station, health services and small businesses. We saw few if any cafes or bars in town. There were a some projects happening, one large one being funded by the Chinese. And we saw one huge billboard reminding locals to get their typhoid vaccines. Oh boy, never thought of that. Of course, there were the Covid boosters advertised but that is everywhere we have gone so far.
We continued on the opposite side of the road past more vendors and one police fellow with a stand and tent. We learned later that he was there just for show as there were few police officers for this area. Passing the Copra Shed Marina, we walked the seaside road passing a nicer part of town. There were a few more cafes along the way, but all appeared to be closed. A nicer supermarket was located here and more small shops. It was low tide, and the exposed mud was not really nice to see. There is no beachfront here at all. To find that, you need to take a taxi elsewhere. The was a park-like small island across from Suvasuva called Nawi Island. You need to take a boat there.
We made it as far as the Jetty, where folks can go out to fish in deeper water. There was a very nice breeze there, although we did not see any tropical fish in the waters. Following a tiny map the ship gave us, we could see a lodge up on the side of the hillside. A 4 star hotel, we have no idea how to even access this place and no idea if it was opened to the public. So we headed back the way we came, and happened to talk to a nice fellow from New Zealand. Heaven help us, we originally thought he was Aussie, but he set us straight on that account, laughing the whole time. Huge competition there we suspect. Anyway, he said we might have a hard time finding a place for beer, since most all of the eating places had closed after Covid hit. He went on about the current situation here where people have been out of work and there was crime everywhere. Especially the young crowd that tends to turn to drugs. As recent as last evening, he said an 83 year old local woman was raped and attacked by some guys. He told us that he has been living on his boat for a few weeks, and in that short time he has been robbed repeatedly. Last week he was out at night and got approached by a group of guys that demanded his money. He said it was either give it up, or be beaten or worse. Once he re-supplies his boat, he said he will be going back to New Zealand. So our feeling earlier in the day with the strange guys on the waterfront was correct. Upon saying goodbye, he said to watch our bags and wallets on our way back to the pier. That was enough for us. Since there was no good place for beers or lunch, we lined up with 50 or 60 people waiting for the next tender boat. It was only 1:30pm. No way would we stay until the last tender at 4:30pm. While waiting, we did get some good pictures of some tropical fish under the gangway to the tender.
Back on the air-conditioned ship, we opted for Dive In burgers and hotdog. At 2pm, there was a short wait for the food. Around 4:30pm, the Captain came on the speakers for his sail away talk. He mentioned that we were close to the next port of Nuku'alofa, Tonga, but we had two full days to get there. Normally that is accomplished with one day at sea. However, the itinerary made it so we would not land at Tonga on a Sunday when everything is totally closed. By taking two slow days at sea, we will arrive on a Monday. For that reason, instead of leaving at 5pm with some scenic cruising around some islands, we would leave later around 6:30pm in the dark. And he added not to be surprised if we actually slow down and drift for some part of the night. It will save on fuel we guess.
Dinner in the dining room had some different choices. We ordered Vietnamese spring rolls, served on a banana leaf with a chopped cucumber relish. Very good. We also had corn fritters, something new. Mains were one swordfish dish and a wasabi-crusted tenderloin of beef. Both were very tasty, moist and tender. Then we were invited to share an anniversary cake with friends Leta and Bill at their table. Can you believe they were celebrating their 67th anniversary? That is incredible. We all enjoyed the chocolate mousse cake with sides of vanilla ice cream. Prio, their waiter was most patient with us since we stayed until the dining room emptied out. We had a great visit as always.
Looking forward to two lazy days at sea before we hit Tonga.
Bill & Mary Ann
